Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'valves'.
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Hey all, Please check my troubleshooting; I believe I have a bad valve. Have I missed any steps? Symptoms: Heavy misfire under load <3Krpm. All gears, esp. from a start Rough idle Analysis: Check TPS for correct resistance from Closed to WOT - passed Check MAF for correct resistance - passed Replaced aged O2 sensors (they were quite old) - no change in performance Checked compression; At normal operating temperature, 145psi 110psi 150psi 141psi (from left-to-right) By my calculation, that's a 27% deficit on cylinder number 2. Warmed up engine, removed oil filler cap, and then dipstick, while running - no smoke or any sort of pulsing from crankcase can be observed Removed valve cover, examined cam lobes - at first thought I had a worn lobe, but they all check out OK. Have I missed any troubleshooting steps, before I start removing the head for a valve job? Thanks!
Help! Not a clue what I'm doing but for the money I thought I'd give it a shot. Here's the deal: aquired an 88 626 non turbo 2.2 standard for free. The owner said a spark plug piece broke off and fell on top of piston #3. Didn't bother to question him, he seemed like he knew what he was talking about and whatever, the car was free. I hauled it away and called around to find a new engine. Found an engine from a scrapyard that's a 1991 626 non turbo 2.2 but it's an automatic. I pulled the engine from the 88, swapped the clutch plate with the flywheel from the automatic and all that jazz, bolted em back together and dropped it back in. Mechanically, everything went perfectly smooth (same platform 88-92) but when I went to connect the wiring harness to the injectors, they didn't mate. My questions are; could I just swap over the entire top end from the last engine? (maximum effort) could I just swap the intake portion of the head from the last engine? and would it work on the new engines head what with the cams, distributor and timing and all that? Or could I just get a new wiring harness and 91 computer that would work in a standard car with an automatic engine setup (I don't even know if that's a thing. I know the engine is the same internally but is an automatics intake/injectors tuned differently or something? Or could I just swap the injectors? (Least effort) What would be the easiest route and who has some insight on how to get this puppy running?
I'd like to use an endoscope to take a look at the backs of the valves and was wondering what the best way to do that would be. Someone told me to go through the throttle body down each intake pipe, but that seems like it might be a bit difficult. I was think that if the injectors are just held in with rubber grommits that I could pull out the injectors the same way one might remove the pcv and just stick the endoscope through the injector ports.