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Found 10 results

  1. What's the difference between the EGR control solenoid and the PRC solenoid? Are they interchangeable? I can't find an answer to this and it's driving me crazy, I've got codes for both and I replaced one and it's still giving me a code. Same question for the VRIS solenoids, they all look the same, I am stumped.
  2. While diagnosing an idle issue i found this piece of hose with a screw in it going nowhere http://www.mediafire.com/view/dppcfkuu4yhkais/image201607040004.jpg its under the VRIS shuttter on the left side of the intake manifold http://www.mediafire.com/view/3bi0c5zn00c1cl1/image201607040005_2.jpg anyone know where this goes to? I also found a lose hose connecting to this http://www.mediafire.com/view/5otairdf4b4ihms/image201607040001.jpg, heres it removed, http://www.mediafire.com/view/tdrbr880ayasolr/image201607040003.jpg it only has the one hole and no other connectors, it has this valve attached http://www.mediafire.com/view/adxy1hc71vaowi0/image201607040002_2.jpg, i blew into it to check how the air flows, and it is as labeled, air cant flow the other way, it also says FORD VAC on the side, have searched for quite some time cant find any info on what these are.
  3. About a month ago my car died. It behaved as if the fuel pump had died and just cut out on the road. I couldn't start it at all. We changed the fuel pump, filter, coil, distributor cap, and rotor and it still wouldn't start. A mechanic changed the distributor itself and it started, but it would die randomly. I would pull out of the driveway, the rpms would jump and then it would die, but I could start it back up immediately. I would head down the road and the rpms would die but the car would not. They would come back up, then hit 0 again, and then die. It did this for 3 days until it died again and it will no longer start. My mechanic said the coil was getting too hot and he thought the problem might be my idle control valve, but that was before it quit starting all together. Any ideas on what's wrong?
  4. I have 2002 mazda 626 4 cylinder and I'm trying to find various parts,here goes: 1. First picture is of a vacuum control module ( or something, I don't know what it is) it's located on the passenger side of the intake manifold and has two electrical connectors and ports for vacuum hoses. One of my ports is broke, the car still runs, but im sure it's needed for something 2. Coolant transfer block ( 2nd pic) located on the driver side of the engine block, connects the heater hose, upper radiator hose, coolant temp sensor to the engine. 3. The screws for the valve cover, I'm missing two. Is there a searchable junkyard database I can look at? Can I buy those screws at Autozone? If so, what would the measurment be that I would need to look for. I know it needs a 10mm socket to remove. So 10mm bolts? Any help would be appreciated.
  5. Bought my '97 626 in September this year, 144K on her, had absolutely no apparent issues..... October comes around and the Check Engine light begins to turn on and off and on at random intervals. Checked for the code and it was a P1506 - Idle Air, Overspeed, Vacuum Leak, etc. A few weeks pass, suddenly the car begins to have issues idling smoothly and she wouldn't turn over properly, some times won't turn over after 5-10 seconds, or would turn over after one go at 'er and it would stall - very rarely I might add.. November comes by and the check engine light turns off.... absolutely no problems what so ever! Ran for 3 weeks beautifully as it came out of Limp Home Mode caused by the Check Engine light. Fourth week of November swings around and suddenly it's back.............. and this time with a vengeance. Regardless of LHM being active due to the Check Engine signal from the computer, the accelerator begins to act really strangely while driving. It won't get to any RPM steadily, it'll go up or down 100-200 RPM. So if I was at 2000 RPM, it'd fall below to 1800-1900 and/or go up to 2100-2200. As soon as I let off the gas, she'd drop extremely quick to 1200 RPM and shudder the vehicle extremely hard all the way to 1200 RPM, and if I was unlucky, drop beyond to 800 and shudder even harder as it fights to get back up to 1200. Now since 3 days ago, the starter is acting up hardcore, some times won't turn over, some times starts and stalls immediately... Some times runs like a champ despite LHM being active.. The most recent and dangerous thing it has done was I'll be driving and as soon as I let off the gas, the car stalls. I've also noticed my dash lights are all coming on when I step on the brake - meters and climate control, even the chime that tells you your dash lights are on gets tripped - and even further, my clutch is making some sort of sliding noise in unison with the lights coming on. To complicate matters further, I can let it sit at idle while warming up, not touching anything and my clutch will make its noise too and it happens far more often when the dash lights are on, less when the headlights are on. (I don't understand that one) All the while idling, those issues going, my idle is also taking sharp dips from 850 to 400-500 also in unison with the clutch and dash lights. I should note that when the noise and lights thing is happening while the idle is taking nose dives, that the lights all dim out. I cannot spot anything obvious or apparent under the hood that's causing ANY of these issues, and even the vacuum leak I have isn't apparent because a smoke test revealed zilch, nada, nothin but as soon as LHM turns off, the car returns to full functionality............... except for this week's issues which remain quite prevalant. All liquids and such are topped off and the air filter is clean and newish. Didn't see any blown fuses. ./thread Also, hello, new to the forums, new-ish to my 626 which seems to hate my guts.
  6. I haven't owned my 626 for very long, and today I spent some time doing routine maintenance. I had a few things taken apart, and I noticed that the intake hose has an open plastic elbow attached to the underside. It appears that it should have a hose connected to it, but I can't find a hose anywhere that it should match. Does anyone know what it is used for?
  7. Recently I was driving and my timing belt broke. At the time the car was running good. The only problem was it was leaking coolant but turns out that was from the water pump. So I get the timing belt and water pump replaced. When I go to get my car from the shop after those being fixed it won't start. The mechanic there got it started but had to step on the gas pedal. He said he wasn't sure exactly why and to drive it until the CEL came on and get it ran. It came on and I go back and it throws codes for a bad o2 sensor, egr valve and maf sensor. And they said that it was a vacuum leak and they weren't sure from where exactly but they said they had an idea of where to start and what to replace ($400 estimate). Given that it's drivable I decided to try to fix it myself. It has a rough idle that surges. And a loss of power. It just runs shitty. I started by fixing the o2 since that was easy and can cause other problems. After fixing that it runs better and has more power but still slightly surges and it doesn't quite have the power it used to. After doing research I can't narrow it down. But I plan on clearing the codes and seeing what comes up again. But what does it sound like? Is it possible it's just timed wrong or does it sound like an egr problem? Or maf? I bought maf cleaner but there's a weird screw (idk if it's torx or star bit) but I can't get they off so I can't try cleaning that
  8. Here's the rundown on things. I've had problems with rough shifting since I bought my car about a year ago. The previous owner had the transmission either replaced or rebuilt. I finally took it to Goodyear to find out what was causing the shifting problem. The guy told me "whoever worked on the transmission had no business working on cars period." Long story short, most of the bolts in the transmission as well as the transmission mount and four motor mounts had to be replaced, costing me around $930. The guy also told me someone had messed with the idle and he adjusted it back to where it was supposed to be, however that wasn't listed on the receipt. Anyway, the car has always idled low and rough before the repairs. You can imagine with the mounts and transmission in the shape they were in. Since the repairs, it idles low and vibrates in drive and reverse. It gets even worse if the A/C is on. The problem isn't apparent in park and neutral. I cleaned the throttle body out with some cleaner and a toothbrush, but that didn't seem to help. To make matters worse, the engine light came on yesterday; code P0507: Idle Control System RPM Too High. It seems to me that it's idling too low in drive and reverse. The car starts to vibrate pretty bad. Anyway, the readings for RPM in park and neutral are around 1,100 and in drive and reverse are around 750. I've never had this code until the guy said he adjusted the idle to the correct spot. I tried checking for a vacuum leak using throttle body cleaner, but didn't find anything. I'm no expert, though, so I could've easily missed it. Any suggestions? Also, I noticed when I removed the hose that goes from the throttle body to the air box or whatever that thing is there seemed to be moisture on the edge of the part where the hose connects--not the throttle body, but the other side, I guess the air box.
  9. hey all, so im having a vacuum issue the car is idling very low and sometimes stalls out and when i rev it up its like theres no rev limiter, it just sounds like it revs up to around 7000 and stays there it doesnt bounce like it should, here is the vacuum line behind the throttle body (the blue one) which is disconnected and i think i accidently disconnected it when i was messing around with the intake does anyone know where it goes? much thanks -Daniel
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