Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'v6'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General
    • News, Competitions, and Announcements
    • General Chat (Sixers Lounge)
    • Feedback
    • Regional
  • Questions and Technical Support
    • 1993-2002 (2.5L) V6
    • 1993-2002 (2L) I4
    • 1988-1992 (2.2L | 2.2L Turbo)
    • 1983-1987 (1.6L | 2.0L | 2.0L Turbo)
    • 1978-1982 (2.0L)
    • Other 626's
  • Supporting Vendors
    • RockAuto
    • Atkins Rotary
  • Performance and Tuning
    • 1993-2002 (2.5L) V6
    • 1993-2002 (2L) I4
    • 1988-1992 (2.2L | 2.2L Turbo)
    • Other 626's
  • Appearance Modifications Section
    • Audio & Electronics
    • Lighting
    • Detailing
    • 1998-2002
    • 1993-1997
    • 1988-1992
    • Other 626's
  • Enthusiast
    • Tutorials & How To Guides
    • Reviews
    • Photo Section
    • Projects/Builds
    • Driving Stories
  • Merchandise and Shopping
    • For Sale / Trade
    • Hot Deals / Free Stuff / Contests

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL









Found 41 results

  1. I tore into the lower end of my 2.5L V6 to see what is wrong with my engine, it’s knocking. So, does Mazda use a different kind of bolt, because these bolt heads don’t look like what I was expecting to find. I’ve worked on various cars, but this is the first time I’ve taken apart a Mazda engine. Do they use a proprietary wrench/socket to assemble/disassemble? (See picture to see bolt head.)
  2. Hey Guys went in to do my smog today and after running multiple tests my guy couldnt get it to pass it kept coming back at 130 hc ppm max being 56 in Ca. both Nox and CO were perfectly fine. everything ran fine at the 25mph test and passed with flying colors at 25.HC was at 34 at 25mph. If anyone has any suggestions on the solution it would be greatly appreciated i will be swapping plugs and doing a fuel injector cleaning with an oil change in the next couple days.
  3. Hey guys I have a few questions about my Mazda 626 2002. 1) I want to swap out my i4 for a V6 KLZE and was wanting to make sure all the engine mounts would work just fine. 2) Is it possible to get engine harness and everything else needed to make the V6 work, without getting a donor car? Like maybe a Mazda Dealer Ship. (or does all the wiring already match, im gonna assume no) 3) I want to swap it to a manual transmission, but will my i4 trans work with the KLZE V6 for now? Thanks everyone, I plan to make an entire video on my swap and how to do it for Mazda 626 Lovers, but I just need to make sure this is all possible first. Alt+MAlt+N
  4. Hey guys, A little back story. My mom had a 2.0 1996 mazda 626 MTX since 1996. She was not the first owner, however the previous had the car for maybe a month or two. In 2015 I took the car for myself and became the new owner while she went and bought a mazda 6. The car is entirely stock other then the exhaust I put on that first year. We touched up the paint and I try to keep it as clean as possible. As of right now it has 260k miles on it, the lifters are tapping, burning and leaking oil, and smoke comes out the tail pipe on some start-ups or when i push it to 5k ya know lol. I have been waiting to buy a new car for the past year, but i love my 626 and wouldn't mind having both to keep my new car with low mileage. Since I like playing with cars and doing repairs on my own, I would like to attempt an engine swap with a buddy who is a bit more mechanically inclined then myself. So I have been doing extensive research so that I can formulate a plan of action before jumping into anything. First off I want to upgrade the I4 to a V6. Looking at the 5th gen 626's (looking at engines already in my year so the swap might be easier) I saw that they came with a 2.0L KF-ZE, 2.5L KL-DE, and a 2.5L KL-ZE. To my understanding the ZEs are Jspec and im not sure if I'd want to get a Japanese due to horror stories. So I think my choice would be the 2.5L KL-DE. (Any thoughts on this decision would be greatly appreciated) Now that I picked an Engine; I have some questions. Would I need to buy a whole new harness? Would I need custom mounts or can i just buy mounts for my same car but the v6 version? Would my current transmission be able to match with the v6. (I don't think so but I'm really just not sure). Any other things that I should consider to make this swap possible? Finally, I feel that since I'd be getting an engine that is already put in my car I would only need the engine, tranny, harness, and mounts. And that I wouldn't really have to get any custom parts? Am I correct here or am I just being too optimistic? I do not feel that it is a crazy swap or anything, I mostly want the experience and fulfillment of completing an engine swap along with being able to keep my baby alive and strong af, maybe even vip her lol. Also if anyone knows of this being done before that possibly have write-ups I'd love some links! I searched alot in the forums but couldn't find anything too concrete and step by step. Mostly just people saying theyre gonna do it and never reply or people just talking about the engines. Thank you guys in advance. Enjoy this pic of my baby aswell!
  5. Taking a shot in the dark here, but does anyone know of a second-generation MX-6 LS, fourth generation V6/5-speed 626, or a 3rd generation 626 GT for sale in the NY/NJ/PA/CT area? I've been looking everywhere and can't find anything (The 626GT that I was going to buy got sold). I've owned eight Mazdas to date, and really want to get back into it again.
  6. Can anyone recommend a good cheap (80-150$) aftermarket cold air intake kit for my 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6 Auto? One thatll fit and i wont really have any problems with the MAF or IAT or anything like that? im kind of new to all of this. Also, if i wernt to install it (i would obviously try my self, doesnt seem to hard) how much would it cost to have a mechanic install it? (just a base price?) Thanks!
  7. Hey guys. I Just bought my first Mazda. Its 626LX V6 AT with just 61,000 KM (39,000 Miles). One owner since new. Everything is working good, but I know that tranny on them is weak and I want to keep it in a good shape as long as it possible. Im not sure if the transmission fluid was changed on this car, and I have two options now: 1. Change transmission fluid as soon as it possible at dealership. Or 2. I can add some good additives of LubeGuard like this one Additive. What you can advise me to make my tranny shift smoother. I also think that I have to change a spark plugs, cause I have just really little vibration at idle. I think its probably old spark plugs (15 y.o.) or the spark wires. I hope you can advise me what to do first, and what I should really do or not. Here are some pics of it .
  8. No dash light indicator when I try to turn on cruise control. Others have suggested replacing STOP and TURN fuses in kick panel. Fuses are fine. No response from power mirror controller. I will take any and all suggestions. Thanks!
  9. No dash light indicator when I try to turn on cruise control. Others have suggested replacing STOP and TURN fuses in kick panel. Fuses are fine. No response from power mirror controller. I will take any and all suggestions. Thanks!
  10. Hi guys, first post here. Just made an account actually to ask this. OK so I've been working on my 2000 mazda 626 lx v6 for a while now and something problematically new shows its face once I resolve the previous. But I digress; the mount or bracket, for the idler pulley for the belt system with the AC and Altenator will not stay put in its designated spot. The top long bolt (10mm)will go in but if tightened a tiny bit too much, it'll loosen. Now it seems the bottom bolt (12mm) has copied it's topside brother and decided to 1up him and came off during yesterday's transit. Since it happened, it's been unstable and shredded my belt and I've been operating on battery power solely. Only capable of making short, needed runs. But now down to the question: how would I be able to keep the mount in place and handle the torque of the belt? I've planned to get a bolt of similarity for the bottom and drive it in but I'm afraid of making the input hole a worse situation than before. My original thought and even my mechanically inclined uncle mentioned tac welding the mount to the block itself. This post is for a brainstorming session because I need more people that own a V6 626 to put forth ideas because where I'm at, it seems I'm the only V6 around, everyone else is a 4-banger. Aaaaaaand go, I'll be here all night.
  11. I was curious if people needed this info? I have the part numbers to all motor mounts and transmission mounts for the 626 v6. You can get them through any parts store! plus a lifetime warranty. My car is a 2001 626es 2.5L AUTOMATIC The brand of mounts are "Anchor." I do know that your major parts place usually stock this brand and it comes with a lifetime warranty. Just let me know if this would be of use and i will edit this with Part numbers and a possible diagram. thanks
  12. I was curious if people needed this info? I have the part numbers to all transmission mounts and engine mounts for the 626 v6. You can get them through any parts store! plus a lifetime warranty. My car is a 2001 626es 2.5L AUTOMATIC The brand of mounts are "Anchor." I do know that your major parts place usually stock this brand and it comes with a lifetime warranty. Just let me know if this would be of use and i will edit this with Part numbers and a possible diagram. thanks
  13. I have been to 2 Pick-a-part junkyards and have not been able to find a V6 with the KL-G4 cams. I live in Central Indiana so my choices are limited. Does anyone know where I can get a rear cylinder head online for my '99 626 with a V6? Or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell? Thanks!
  14. So heres my short list of what im going to do with my 626 and along the way im going to of course keep this thread up to date! Also a lot of restoration/general maintanence is going to be happening such as new cv axle shafts, brakes, rotors, all kinds of stuff ill keep everybody up to date :D Wish/Mod List CAI Custom Exhaust KLG4 Intake Mani and MilleniaTB Millenia S Injectors w/ Fuel Rod Millenia S Rods KLZE Pistons K8 Cams Pacestter Headers Meghan Racing Front Strut Bar Corksport Rear Strut Bar GF 626 Sway Bars PORT EVERYTHING! Ksport Kontrol Coilovers General Maintanence CV Axle Shafts KYB Struts Tie Rod Ends Tie Rods Valve Cover Gaskets Thermostat Heater Hoses Power Steering Pump Clutch Clutch Slave Cylinder Hub Bearings Interior Work Headliner Various Bulbs Shift Boot Sun Visors Whats Been Done Aftermarket Cat (Previous owner did it, i have no idea what kind it is) CAI Custom Axleback Exhaust Thermostat New Radio and Correct Fuses (Previous owner didn't really know what he was doing) New CV axle on one side New shift boot and knob New radio pocket Centercaps Painting centercaps Painted headlight supports New wheel bearing on one side Cleaned throttle body Cleaned air filter New radiator hoses Fixed the a/c More to come stay posted!
  15. Looking at swapping a buick v6 from a commodore into my 1978 sedan, just wondering if anyone has had any experience or sussgestion i would be very thankful
  16. My car recently started overheating. 1996 Mazda 626 V6 220,000 miles We did replace the thermostat. I have the water pump but havent put it in yet as it appears to be quite a chore and wanted to get an opinion before I replace it. When it sits in idle with nothing on its fine temp gauge rests in the middle. Went for a short 7 minute drive and it slowly lifted to the H position. Today I had it parked and just ran it, it was fine. I turned on the heater and it took several minutes for it to rise above the middle section of the gauge. I switched to AC and it rose steadily to the H position. The thermostat I believe was part of an issue with the car. Before replacing it the car took quite a while to heat up, now it warms up to the middle of the temp gauge in about 5 minutes. I am what I like to call "car retarded" so all this is very new to me, any help will be useful and if it could be in the plainest english that would be great. I was running low on water in the radiator, when it was drained it was very brown and wasnt very much. After replacing the thermostat and thinking the car was good we replaced the fluid with 50/50 antifreeze. Now that its still overheating we are looking for other options, we plan to flush the radiator (what is the best way to do that?) Also what do I do to properly dispose of the antfreeze that comes out? If I could get a list of to do, from easiest to hardest that would be amazing! Thank you in advance
  17. I have a 1992 V6 2.0ltr Cronos (626) that will now not start after it had the catalytic converter overheat. I have replaced the converter with a resonator and still it will not start or run. I have checked for spark and fuel & it has both of these. I have replaced the ECU as I thought it might have been that but still it would not start or run. I have pinned the diagnostic plug to see what error code/s come up but it would not show me. It is as if the computer has no power to it. When I pinned it the radiator fan kicked in and was running constantly does anyone have an idea as to what it may be? I am thinking it may be the oxygen sensor is stuffed as it had the cat converter glowing red hot when it stuffed out and when it was replaced there was a rush of gas fumes out of the exhaust system which had been trapped. Up until this happened it was running perfectly fine with no troubles at all.
  18. The airbag light started flashing out of nowhere one day. It flashes 7 times pauses then flashes 7 again. I've looked up codes and there isn't a 77.. What does this mean??
  19. Hi everyone, this is my first post here on the forum but I've owned V6 GE 626's for about 4 years now and pretty much know them inside out (at least it feels that way haha). I'm the owner of the Chalk board painted 95 V6. It was inevitable... my O2 sensors are finally on the way out and my fuel economy is quickly going down hill, currently sitting on 9.4L/100km (highway driving) vs early this year getting 7.9L/100km (highway driving). Replacing these expensive little suckers is proving a harder task then first thought. The only local auto parts store (repco, NSW Australia) sells the things for $207 a piece, and for some reason they only think the car should have one when it really has two, one on each bank exhaust. I am however not going to pay $414 combine for two O2 sensors because frankly that is a pathetic rip off (welcome to buying car parts in Aus). RockAuto Parts (online website) has these two 4 wire sensors that look good and are a very decent price ($23.79 USD Each); Front - https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4554024&cc=1190056 Rear - https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=4553922&cc=1190056 Has anyone ever bought these ^ ? (I'm reluctant to buy due to reviews of RockAuto) What O2 sensors have you bought, where did you get them and were they a good deal?
  20. Looking at $3000 with 6 months rego and RWC, the RWC is looking at ~$2300 worth of work/repairs including things like suspension and brakes, haven't gotten a proper list of repairs but I'm worried about buying a car needing that much work. Regardless of what is needed being done is $3000 for that car a decent price? Thanks
  21. Hi Guys, Yesterday I found a guide on internet for how to pull out codes from old mazda's with Diagnoses box as we don\t have that system where you can put the computer and it will give you all the codes, These ones were bit hard to understand but I got it God I got 7 codes and I need help on testing these things, 04, 05, 12, 15, 17, 23, 41 I am attaching a picture where it says what these code means Also video is coming up for how to diagnose with LED and wire. P.s: My timing is out if it can effect any sensors or codes.
  22. About 4 or 5 months ago I had the distributor replaced on my 1997 Mazda 626 lx 2.5 5 speed. We took it in, got it swapped out and put in a new radiator while it was in. Now, the symptoms I was having when my distributor last went out have come back. I'm taking it to the place we got it fixed last time (not the dealer) tomorrow, but I just want to see if anyone has had this happen to them, and if so what caused it? I've had no problems with my car other than this happening last time. It only has 50k miles on it, so it has plenty of life left. I've always thought Mazda's were reliable, but it seems with everyone telling me different I don't know anymore. HELP! I love my car so so so so so much, and I don't want it to be any trouble for me or my family.
  23. Hello....My 626 is now approaching 133,000 miles, and I'm getting due for an oil change? Does anyone know if using high milage oil would be beneficial? I do not have any leaks that I'm aware of, and my valve cover gaskets were recently replaced due to a leak in the past, but now I have no leaks. I go approx 4500 between oil changes, but check my oil approx every 3 weeks after car has been sitting overnight, and the dip stick level always shows full with no signs of oil consumption. I've heard mixed opinions on weather or not it is worth using the high milage oil. My car seems to be running fine, and I average approx 26-27 miles per gallon with 70% highway and 30% city driving. Thanks, Mike
  24. 1993 Mazda GE 626 Hatchback. 2.5L V6, 5 speed manual, no leaks, runs very well, gearbox changes gears great and there is no crunching. Full options, cruise control, climate control, electric windows, electric mirrors, electric 3 way sunroof. 315,000 km's on the clock. Alloy wheels, good tyres, new battery and a few other bits under the bonnet. Sony Xplod CD/MP3 player with speakers. No reg/RWC, but confident that it will need minimal time and work to pass an inspection. BAD POINTS: Clutch needs adjustment, still drives very well but it just feels a bit loose. Few scratches and dents around the car, still presents well though. Slight rip in the driver's seat, nothing to affect it passing a RWC. Located in Werribee VIC 3030. $1,000 ONO. 0413 103 425 - Joel.
  25. Hi there, I bought a 96 2.5 with 138,000 km's on it about a month ago, and yesterday I changed the oil for the first time. It was definitely due an oil change as the old oil was dirty and black. I used Castrol GTX 5w-30 and a fram filter. The first problem was the manual called for 3.7 litres of oil, but when that amount was put in the dipstick was registering just over the L mark. So I probably put another 200ml in and it went up to between the F and L. I let the car sit on level ground for about 15 minutes before starting. When I started it sounded like a diesel. It has a lower idle and a definite tapping noise which it did not have before. but when I drive it above 2000rpm it goes back to normal, no tapping can be heard and it sounds like it did before I changed the oil. I went for a drive in it and it didn't feel any different, it just sounded bad idling and under 2000 rpm. There are no lights on the dash telling me somethings wrong and the engine temperatures is where it normally is. I checked the oil again and topped it up to F, so now there's about 4.5 litres in it. Its not leaking or burning blue or anything like that. Today I took it to a friend who is a heavy duty mechanic and he said that the oil in it before could've been heavier and was used to mask the noise and that there could be a valve problem. My dad was also talking to a guy who blamed the Fram filter and said that sometimes they have a problem distributing the oil to the whole engine or something. I really have no clue what could've caused this, would the oil really make that much of a difference? or is it the cheapo filter? help would be greatly appreciated! thanks, callum
  • Create New...