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Found 25 results

  1. Hi all this is my first 626 gt turbo and i was wondering what are these hoses that run to this box to the exhaust manifold
  2. First post so sorry for weird formatting. My question is what modifications would be needed to swap the engine and trans from an 88 626 turbo into a 2002 i4 626? if this has been asked before please link me. Thanks in advance!
  3. Current DD/Project 1991 MX-6 LX W/ Turbo swap _Mods_ Engine: -Performance Dual Valve Springs -Bosh DRI GT injectors -Walbro 190LPH Fuel Pump -ATX throttlebody with thermo spacer -EGR Block Off Plate -A/C Delete -Aluminum 2 Row 'custom' Radiator -Aluminum Lightweight Crankpulley -100% Emissions, PCV, EGR and Vacuum Rail Delete. -MSD Blaster 2 Coil Conversion -NGK Wireset, NGK Plugs -Spark Plugs/Wires Thermo Insulators Drivetrain: -Stock N/A Trans -Previous owner replaced clutch with OEM equivalent, I have not upgraded yet Turbo: - VF12/VJ11 Hybrid. VF12 Turbine, center section and compressor wheel, VJ11 Turbine housing, machined out to fit VF12 Turbine LINK -HKS Hardpipe kit, HKS SSQ Black Series BOV (Likely a knockoff) -Custom 2.5" O2 housing -Custom 2.5" Downpipe With Side Exit -OEM Intercooler Suspension: -25MM Wheel Spacers -16" Mitsubishi Ecplise wheels W/ 225/50/16 Cheapish Tires -AWR Trailing Links -Ground Control Coilovers -KYB GR2 Struts -Custom "Dutch" FSTB, OEM GT RSTB -OEM GT Rear Lower Tie Bar -89' Probe GT 18MM Rear Sway Bar -Energy Endlinks, Sway Bar bushings -Ebay Slotted Front Rotors W/ Ceramic pads MISC: -Autometer Vacuum/Boost Gauge -Innovative LC-1 Wideband/Gauge -Generic Sunpro 3 Gauge pod; Coolant-Volts-Oil Pressure -HKS Turbo Timer -ZKW Foglight Grill -Grant GT Steering Wheel -Generic 4PT racing Harness -Whistler Radar Detector -1080P 60FPS Dashcam -Manifold, O2 Housing and Turbo Center Section Painted 1000F Black -Valve Cover, FSTB and VAF Painted "Grabber Green" -Brass Shifter Bushings -Custom VAF Harness Extension Weight reduction: -Front Bumper Crash Bar and Support Removed -From the Front Seats Back, All Interior Removed -Battery Relocated to Rear of Trunk -A/C delete, Cat Delete General Maintence: -Gates Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idler -Disty Cap, Rotor -Fuel Filter -Wix oil Filter, Mobil1 5W30 -Felpro Valve Stem Seals -Frequent Alignments -Always filled up with Shell V-Power 91, Never Over Half a Tank, Save Weight
  4. ****Disclaimer Part 1**** I am not a certified mechanic, or an automotive expert. I am simpy someone that has ONLY owned an F2 or F2T engine car, and because of that, I happen to know a lot about it, and how to mess with it. Everything I have done is an experiment, a guess or an outcome of hours sometimes days or weeks or months of research. Multiply this by 6 years and I start to think I'm pretty good at it. I could always be wrong, forget something, or need to be corrected. ****Disclaimer Part 2*** If you question the health of your engine (leaks, drips, shakes, shimmys, bumps, knocks, pings, pongs, creaks, squeaks, squeals, rattles, taps, ticks, tocks, dings, dongs, unexplained smells or smoke DO NOT TURBO, FIX IT FIRST DUMMY!!! Hello! So you have a non-turbo 88-92 Mazda 626, MX-6, or ford Probe, and want to swap the turbo parts from a GT to make your car faster and cooler. Lets begin with what a GT F2T comes with that makes it a GT, (not necessarily what you NEED, but simply what makes it different than the F2) -Engine block (same shape and design only difference is extra nipples near the turbo for oil and coolant feeds/returns and different piston compression ratio) -Oil dipstick -Cylinder head (exhaust valves are heat treated, that's it) -Turbo, exhaust manifold, EGR pipe, intake pipes, charge pipes, intercooler -GT injectors (square plug for 88-89, oval plug for 90-92) -GT ECU (computer unit), that means the engine harness is different as well -Distributor, ignition system -Knock sensor (back of block) -Oil cooler, has coolant lines running to a sandwich plate the oil filter screws onto -Flywheel, clutch, c/v axles, transmission (all different from a non-turbo) and that includes engine and transmission mounts -Front wheel hubs (to support the different spline count on the GT c/v axles -Oil line that feeds the turbo (comes from back of the block, to the right of the oil filter) *two pieces* -Hard coolant pipe (wraps around front of block), has an extra nipple for turbo coolant hoses. On top of all that, the F2T has lower compression pistons than the F2, to allow for safer boosting and makes it literally fool proof (or very close) "But doesn't that mean if I turbo swap my non-turbo, I will make more HP than the F2T?" YES, much more. I will get to that soon. Ok, so your probably saying "wow, that's a huge parts list." Yes it is, BUT remember I said this is just what makes a GT, a GT. Not necessarily what you NEED to turbo swap your F2. "I'm not made of money, what's the bare minimum I need to turbo swap?" Hey, you're preaching to the priest on that one, I turbo swapped my F2 over night, with the absolute bare minimum, with a final cost of a little over $100 (the turbo was $90, so you probably see where I'm coming from lol) Minimum GT parts to make your non-turbo F2 Mazda into a F2-T: -Manifold, turbo, O2 housing, EGR pipe, exhaust downpipe -All intake pipes and clamps, including intercooler and OEM bypass valve unit -Metal oil line feed line (two pieces) from back of block, including the banjo bolt with the hole in it, and crush washer -**Injectors (higher flow rate than the non-turbo)** -Oil dipstick -Vacuum/boost gauge -Wideband tuning kit for reading air/fuel ration, and allowing you to PROPERLY tune your engine (I'm probably forgetting something, so I'll fix this if I remember or get corrected) -Extra vacuum line, coolant line, vacuum T's, fittings, clamps, and other stuff too probably *example* Turbo, manifold, and O2 housing: GT injectors: Charge pipes: Throttlebody boot, and other charge pipes: Intercooler: Where does the oil feed go????? There's a sensor in the way!!!!! Check it out: Dont forget the banjo bolt! Banjo bolt, BPV (Bypass Valve), GT dipstick and turbo support bracket: Problems with doing the bare minimum: 1. Because you swapped in the GT injectors, it will run super, super rich at idle and cruise, making it almost un-drivable (I will explain this) 2. You will not have coolant feed or drain for the turbo 3. There will not be a nipple for you to run the turbo oil drain line to 4. Your clutch cannot, and probably will not, hold the power you will now be making 5. There is a unit on the turbo called the boost solenoid, this controls boost levels. Because you don't have the GT ECU and harness, it will be unplugged, you can even remove it completely. Solutions for these problems: 1. **Important** (See below these steps) 2. If you tap into the coolant lines near the non-turbo distributor area, you can make a system that feeds the turbo (You will need extra hose, and T fittings) 3. If you JB weld (or equivalent), a barb fitting into the oil pan under the turbo near the drain pipe on the turbo, you can make a DIY drain hose into the oil pan *example* 4. Buy an reputable, (NOT EBAY), clutch kit that can handle the power. (Southbend non-turbo stage 2 kit for example) 5. Run a vacuum line dirrectly from the compressor nipple on the turbo, to the nipple on the wastegate. You should have between 7psi and 10psi of boost before the wastegate opens. 1. To solve the issue of running super duper rich, I took off the top plastic cover from my VAF unit to tighten the air metering door spring, and I also drilled out the idle mixture control plug, to adjust idle richness. I knew exactly what I was doing, and what the VAF does, I was able to have an absolutely perfect tune @10psi and over 25MPG. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE TO DO THAT The VAF unit is very sensitive, and once you change the OEM setting (unless you mark it) you can never go back. You might be asking, ok then, so can I use the non-turbo injectors? I never tried using the non-turbo injectors while boosting, I assumed that because of the lower flow rate, it would run too lean and be too risky. So I understand I told you to run the GT injectors AND not to touch the VAF....this is very contradictory and leaves a huge blank spot in the how-to. I cannot just simply tell you how to tune the VAF for GT injectors, I can only tell you what I did, and that I do not recommend the average Mazda owner to open it up and try to duplicate my results. What I did to lean my tune, to support the use of GT injectors on a non-turbo: Inside the VAF, under the plastic cover, is a wound up spring that controls the stiffness of the airdoor. How far this door opens, is how much fuel your injectors let out. Once you put in GT injectors, this door does not need to open as much, or as easily, since the new injectors dump in a lot more fuel. "Ok, I guess I understand...so I need to tighten the spring?" Yes, it is a 'click' setup. Turn the gear clockwise, and each click is a little leaner. Turn the gear counter-clockwise and it richens. Example: (This is inside the VAF, under the plastic cover, the arrow is pointing to the locking 'thingie' that stops the gear) The big black plastic block is controlled by the spring, and attatched to the door inside. The metal arm on this black unit, rides along a track and in turn tells the ECU how much air is pulling the door open. "Interesting, so how many clicks?" I can't really answer that, ever motor is different. For me, it was anywhere from 5 to 10 clicks clockwise, or more. And I was constantly adjusting this to account for further engine modifications, or tune-ups. For example, if you start up your car with GT injectors directly after the swap, you will notice how poorly it idles (if it even starts), and if you try to drive around, it will perform horrible, but probably boost. With the VAF cover off, you will see that the sensor arm is kind of bobbing around or at a steady location, the air the engine is sucking in, is pulling the door open, thusly telling the ECU how much fuel to dump in. Understand? You can use you finger the see how the arm inside the VAF controls the tune, gently push the arm so the door is less open, and it will get leaner, and maybe start running better, since it will be too rich to begin with. Push the arm so the door opens more, and the engine will probably stop running, because it will be too rich. Lets assume you've done what I have recommended you should not, and have gotten your cruise air/fuel ratio to a point that allows the car to drive and boost without blowing up or bogging down from too much fuel. There is a likely chance it will be too lean at idle (if you make it too lean), and either over heat, or want to stall. You shouldnt have to lean too much after the injector install, to the point where you need to richen the idle tune, but in case you do, and need to know how: Remember that idle air/fuel plug I mentioned? Here it is: There is an alluminum plug on the VAF that hides a brass adjustment screw, you can drill out the plug to get to the screw. BE CAREFUL, drill too far and you're screwed (haha, get it?.......) Turning it clockwise, allows less air to bypass the door, meaning it makes it as rich as possible at idle, counter clockwise, allows more air to bypass the door making the idle tune leaner. I used a universal narrowband air/fuel ration gauge and a volt meter hooked up to my O2 sensor, to get as good of a tune as I possibly could, at idle, cruis, and while boosting. Lot's of research, practice and a watchful eye on my spark plugs kept me from being too lean, and detonating while in boost (exploding my engine internals.) DISCLAIMER Part 3: Any mechanic, engine builder, shop or profesional will tell you that any change in air/fuel ratio or attempt to, should be made with a proper tuning device, and by someone who knows exactly what they are doing. NOT an of the shelf narrowband, since they have a less than a 1/4 of the ability of a wideband. Meaning, a wideband oxygen sensor and gauge is MANDATORY for tuning your air/fuel ratio, you should not even attempt to tune you car by sight/sound/feel alone. "Wait, but that's what you did...and that's basically what you're telling me to do" OK maybe, but I'm also saying do it at your own risk, and I'm not responsible if you blow up your motor, ok? Everything from ignition timing to tuning air/fuel ratio, I've done by sight/sound/smell/feel, and it's been close to perfect every time. Am I god? No, just really carefull, and have had lots of practice, for better or worse. If you expect your engine to last at all, properly setting your ignition timing along with constant maintence/inspection is a must. **This how-to is a work in progress, I need to spell check it, error check it, and make sure I didn't leave something huge out. Suggestions, corrections and constructive critisism is welcomed**
  5. Taking a shot in the dark here, but does anyone know of a second-generation MX-6 LS, fourth generation V6/5-speed 626, or a 3rd generation 626 GT for sale in the NY/NJ/PA/CT area? I've been looking everywhere and can't find anything (The 626GT that I was going to buy got sold). I've owned eight Mazdas to date, and really want to get back into it again.
  6. What components aside from those already on the stock F2 N/A engine would be needed to turbocharge the engine with a stock or slightly better turbo. Aside from the turbo itself, piping, manifold, down-pipe, oil lines, and boost pressure gauge. How does the ecu read boost pressure and how would a stock controller be wired in? Thanks for any input. -Luke
  7. Hello everybody my names Marcel, and i recently purchased a 1990 mazda 626 gt for $850 when I initially looked at it it had no check engine lights on, and was boosting nicely. Downside was the very recent oil change was done by the owners friend who put regular oil in, and not synthetic. So the same night i bought it i swapped to 10w-30 castrol synthetic oil right away. Later into the next day the white smoke out the back stopped (2nd day i had it). The second day i had it i noticed the temp gauge fluctuates, and at idle will start to overheat only until i start moving. I've spent a whole long time on these forums looking for solutions, but everything checks out. I did a coolant pressure test, and its fine, also my electric fans do kick in. By this point i've come to the conclusion it's a headgasket. . Since i only bought the car for 850 i don't mind parting with it or scrapping it. Anyone have a suggestion?? i won't be able to sell this car in my state worth crap. (utah) So I wanna know if any of you guys want it or parts off it before i decide to scrap it. Reason why i don't want to do the head gasket is because my auto school doesn't have any jobs for me to get credit for the head gasket change so i can't work on it in there period. Which leaves me to do it in my drive way which i don't have near the amount of equipment to do so. Lastly I don't want to find out that the heads warped, or there are burned or varnished valves either because that would just drain my funds for now. I know it's a rare car, and so i would rather see someone who's passionate about these cars to take it since other than some dings around the body it's pretty straight. i can post a picture on here as requested.
  8. I have a 1991 Mazda626 GT turbo 5 speed which I purchased new in July, 1991. The car is in the Ottawa area and needs work. Included is a 1991 Mazda626 LX automatic parts car. I have enjoyed both vehicles and would hate crush them if there is anyone who would be interested in fixing them up.
  9. Hii everyone, maybe anythink know, stock engine mazda 626 1993 GE 1.8 FP 105 hp, how many keep max horsepower? I thinking turbo instals.
  10. Hey All, Have a Distributor problem need the F220 pinout list... OR.... What do these wires do? Blue wire from the distributor goes to Connector #1 Location [ T ] White wire from the distributor goes to Connector #1 Location [ Q ] Red wire from the distributor goes to Connector #1 Location [ O ] Green wire from the distributor goes to Connector #1 Location [ N ] Yellow-Blue wires from the distributor goes to Connector #1 Location [ P ] Thanks
  11. Ok well the silver GC is now a silver turbo GC finally! After a lot of work almost 2yrs lol, but i did it all myself with next to no cash so thats understandable, I will be taking time to get this thread going its not a how to its just a overall guide to aid someone who is wanting to do it to a factory ideal, will post pics and such as i go starting from , well the start..... I just have to decide where and how many pics i will need to show, id rather them all be on here in like a album or something but i dont think i can do that here, will see what happens..
  12. Has anyone put a turbo on a 626 I4? People always give me weird looks when I tell them I want to turbo mine. :) Anyway, if someone has, what has worked the best? Was it worth it? I saw a youtube video where they put a turbo on a '91 626 4cyl.
  13. Ok this is a how to guide to polish your header covers or turbo covers or anything metal so they will look nice and shiney. Firstly make sure your covers will handle the work (too badly rusted and your wasting your time) Step 1. First off you will need to go purchase some sanding and metal polishing equipment, (i went to bunnings) Step 2. Ok these are the items i got,cost around $70. 75mm wire cup brush,(if its rusted like mine is) 60mm flap wheels 80grit and120grit, 25mm flap wheels 80grit and 120grit,(These are good as you can attach them to your drill). Wet and dry abrasive papers ranging from 240grit, 320g, 400g, 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000(Thats the only grit i could get, idea is not to space the grits out too much) Metal polishing gear, 2" sisal and loose leaf buff wheels(also got 4" buff wheels as well) with drill attachment and grey(cutting) compound and white(polishing) compound(or whatever is with your pack), also some clean cotton fabric for finishing up. Step 3. Prep. Obviously remove your covers off your vehicle, next if it is rusted, attach the wire brush to your drill and start removing the rust, once thats cleaned over attach the 80grit flap wheel and slowly and steadily sand it back, note, Keep it even and do not press too hard or allow it to slip while pressure is exerted as this puts concaves and deep scratches on it,(very annoying to get out(time waster)), you may need a second wheel of 80g like i did if its really covered in rust (Like mine) at this stage the key is take your time as 80g is the roughest you want to get it even all over as best you can. Once you have done that proceed to the 120grit and smooth and even it out again. Step 4. Starting with the 240 grit and a small tub of water start to smooth and even it out again dipping into the water every minute or so to unclog and lube working your way through the grits (i used one whole sheet of grit each time)taking 10mins or so on each grit working your way up to the 800grit,start taking more time on each grit from 800g(extra 5 mins) till you get to 2000grit Step 5. Ok next attach Sisal wheel to drill and load up with a little grey compound and start at all the areas that were hard to reach, crevises etc.. then work your way onto the open areas, paying attention to the detail (buff where scratches are) and regularly a whole buff over to keep it even. Takes maybe 10mins or more depends on the effort. Once you are happy with it attach the Loose leaf wheel and load it up with a little white compound and basicly do the same, start at the hard to get places working your way onto the open areas, Note, try working in a consistant pattern like, going up and down whilst moving across or left to right whilst moving up or down, you get the picture spend say another 10mins on that and once you are satisfied its done finish up by polishing with the cotton fabric to buff residue off forming a big smile on your dial! Step 6. Have a well earned drink of your choosing and sit back and admire your work. Note. I also did this to my turbo housing but i didnt have to sand it, just buffed it and used mothers metal polish and it came up like new. Thank you for your time and i hope you got all you needed to do the job.
  14. I just bought this 1984 626 2.0L LX a couple weeks ago. Having done everything to get it back on the road. I have been pondering the idea of putting a turbo on this little 4 cylinder. I was wondering if i can get the components off of a 1986 2.0L turbo? P.S. I feel slightly dumb asking this but how do you check the tranny fluid on these cars! this is the first little car I have ever owned and it is also the first front wheel drive car that i have owned. It seems to have a slow leak of red coloured fluid which I am assuming is tranny fluid.
  15. Ok i havnt posted much over the weeks but i have an interesting topic id like to cover. With our cars gaining considerable age and parts discontinuations i thought this would be time now for this, I have some wear lines in my front cam seal journal,(silver turbo) exactly where the seal sits of all things, thou my question is, how much wear can be allowed on this particular area of the cam? i have measured mine up with a DVC (digital vernier caliper) and the wear is not really much at all, like 00.09mm to be precise, normal measurement of the journal reads 33.95mm and in the wear groove its 33.86mm, so im thinking wheather this is still good to go or do i have to chase about looking for an o/s i/d seal to suit and a grind on that part of the journal to fix it, im open for suggestions. Oh and i have already inquired about speedy sleeve, its a no go as my front cam seal journal has a keyway for timming belt sproket so i cannot go that option.
  16. So I have recently acquired a '99 kia sportage, did some research and found out that the 2.0l doc fe engine or fe3 was offered in japan for the 626/Capella. Now my question, what parts from the FET engine could I use, mainly the turbo exhaust manifold. I'm not shy to doing custom but if I can get bolt on parts. Why not. Cheaper, is most of the time better. Unless it's cheap steel.
  17. I bought a 1991 626, 2.2L NA. It was a high mileage car about 270,000 when bought but it came with a second motor. I just pi'd the original motor 314,159 miles, I redid all the major gaskets and runs strong still. I have the second motor in my garage and I really want a turbo on it. How easy and good idea to pull stuff off a used one?!
  18. I have a 1986 Mazda 626 GT (as the title states), and i was curious about what the different years of 626 changed for the aas struts.. I've found a 1990 Mazda MX-6 (which is the 626 with a different name if i'm not mistaken) that has the aas struts and is located at an auto salvage yard. The engine blew out apparently and i'd like to know if anybody could tell me if those struts would fit into my '86 as the struts are showing their age. Also, if at all possible could somebody explain the differences between the years and if there are any possible modifications i can make to get them to work? I'm bent on keeping my car as stock as possible. If all else fails is it possible or maybe even smarter to get the struts rebuilt? What makes these struts so special and unique and unadaptable to newer struts? Thank you so much!
  19. Got a 97 mazda 626 put a t3 turbo setup with aem fic piggy back.... a tuning shop told me the mass air flow sensor needs to go b4 the turbo but with the mass air plugged in car doesn't know what to do (mass b4 turbo)... but with the mass air unplugged the car runs great... its a brand new mass air so I know its not bad... and from what I see on this forum most pics with turbos have mass air after turbo.... please help....
  20. hiya all, i'm having some problems with my 626 turbo F2T 89" 1) idle keeps jumping but if i take the cold start plug off it stops jumping. 2) when i accelerate theres dead spot. 3) idle is high (1500-2000) any help would be sweet ty Forgot to add, the car run between 4-6 psi but it should be running at 10 psi
  21. If I can figure this out, I'm going to post pictures of my latest acquistion, an '89 5 door turbo. She's a bit rough but worth saving. 172k miles, all original, been in about six states including Hawaii, was an Air Force beater, so no idea how many owners (Carfax says six but you know how that goes.)
  22. Ok wondering if anyone has seen and or knows of where i can get one(CHEAP) its the digital error code checker for mazda' ecu's here an image of all i could round up if anyone can help be very helpfull The one above is the newer version (i think) and (i think) this is the older version on the right(No. 49 G018 9A0)
  23. My 91 2.2 GT auto when started and rev'd, makes an engine noise like you left the air cleaner disconnected and a squirl cage spinning. Once in gear and you pull away the sound is loud but stops when the engine is running without agressive acceleration. This continues at every stop until the engine warms up. Engine runs great and I have plenty of turbo power, right now..... A couple of fellow shade tree mechanics have said is was the turbo bearning going out and that I need to rebuild or replace it. At $675 to replace I'd rather rebuild if I can find the parts to do so, or find it in a junk yard. Any thoughts about the noise and where I can get a turbo/parts??
  24. i have a 89 Mazda 626 lx and i am thinking of replacing the engine in it but i want to go from a 2.2 non turbo charged to a 2.2 turbo charged engine will the ecu in the car work for a turbo charged engine
  25. HI im a complete noob in automotive stuff! i have a Mx6 turbo, when i turn the car on the lights pulse and the Rpm goes with the light (Lights both off and on) iv had it tuned, serviced and cheeked all the Earths (Or so the mechanic said) he doent know what the problem is or how to fix it, does anyone on this site know what could have caused this? its got power locks,windows and sun roof. Plz help? if theres and thing you need to ask or know plz tell me and ill cheek?
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