Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'timing belt'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • General
    • News, Competitions, and Announcements
    • General Chat (Sixers Lounge)
    • Feedback
    • Regional
  • Questions and Technical Support
    • 1993-2002 (2.5L) V6
    • 1993-2002 (2L) I4
    • 1988-1992 (2.2L | 2.2L Turbo)
    • 1983-1987 (1.6L | 2.0L | 2.0L Turbo)
    • 1978-1982 (2.0L)
    • Other 626's
  • Supporting Vendors
    • RockAuto
    • Atkins Rotary
  • Performance and Tuning
    • 1993-2002 (2.5L) V6
    • 1993-2002 (2L) I4
    • 1988-1992 (2.2L | 2.2L Turbo)
    • Other 626's
  • Appearance Modifications Section
    • Audio & Electronics
    • Lighting
    • Detailing
    • 1998-2002
    • 1993-1997
    • 1988-1992
    • Other 626's
  • Enthusiast
    • Tutorials & How To Guides
    • Reviews
    • Photo Section
    • Projects/Builds
    • Driving Stories
  • Merchandise and Shopping
    • For Sale / Trade
    • Hot Deals / Free Stuff / Contests

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start





Website URL









Found 13 results

  1. Dmonster4648

    Check my timing belt marks

    I'm doing a timing belt on a 2000 2.0l with 150k. I'm having trouble getting the marks perfectly aligned. When i put it together the first time it ran perfect for about a minute then started to have a rough idle that got progressively worse. would appreciate if someone could tell me if they think it's lined up correctly. also the crank notch is lined up perfectly at the time I took the pics. Thanks
  2. Dmonster4648

    Unusual timing belt wear

    I have a 2000 626 2.0l with 148k miles. I replaced the timing belt at 120k, I believe it was a Gates kit, new water pump included. I was going to change the valve cover gasket this weekend and when I took off the valve cover I noticed the edge of the timing belt is worn. It is the first 1/8th inch of the side farthest from the engine. It is worn about half way through and even had a 2 inch peice flapping loose. The upper timing belt cover was then removed and it has a half circle worn right where the water pump pulley sits.. it seems the WP pulley somehow is rubbing on the edge of the timing belt or pushing the cover into the belt. Does anyone know what may have caused this to happen? Bad WP? Installer error? The WP was not refurbished and was whatever came in the gates kit. Also when I do another new belt and WP do I need to do the tensioner as well? I should add the WP pulley doesn't seem to wobble when spun by hand but does make some squeaking noise. Thanks for any advice
  3. Howdy guys. Sad to say I traded in the 626 after years of serving me well. As it is, I stocked up on some parts I was planning on replacing in the future. I'd like to get rid of the parts as a whole. I have the following: Timing Belt kit (with tensioner) Oil filters (4) Transmission mount Oil Pan Gasket Front Wheel Bearings Rear Disc Pads 1 inner tie rod Let me know. I'm in MD if you want to pick it up. None of the parts are used, but the boxes are worse for the wear after two moves.
  4. eddieglitter

    Timing Belt

    Hi guys, I been a member of the forum since I purchased a 1986 GC 626 Manual Super Deluxe for my son to learn to drive in. I've had a couple of issues, but always managed to find the answers on the site without asking questions. But now that my son has his licence, he's knocking up a few more KMS. So I'm hoping some or one of you can give some advice. The car had 1 previous lady owner. Always serviced on or before time. I paid $1500 for it 18 months ago. My son is going overseas in 10 months. He will be using the car until then. After this is can be dumped as we agree that he got his moneys worth out of it. At the moment it has a small gearbox leak. The exhaust is solid, but the baffles have come loose in both the middle (worst) & rear mufflers ($350). It will also need a set of tyres in about 6 months ($400). The motor has just clocked over 200,000kms. I changed all the filters, plugs & oil this week. Pads were done a few months ago. However, I know that the timing belt should be done, but I got a quote and it's around $400. With the car going to travel between 10 & 12,000kms before my son leaves for the USA, do you think I can get away without doing the timing belt ? I know it's a risk, but it doesn't make sense to spend another $1200 on a $1500 car which is not going to pass a road inspection with a leaking gearbox, so it can be basically thrown away next year. Any stories or knowledge about timing belts on this model would be appreciated. Thanks Eddie
  5. Stablecannon(nextGen)

    Squealing Coming From Somewhere...

    I just finished my head gasket and changed the timing belt (thanks djdevon3, those videos were tons of help) and all related components, however when I started it up, it started to squeal. At first I though that maybe my belts were slipping...and they were. I then removed the belts and started the car up and it still made the squealing noise, so I'm thinking maybe my camshaft brackets are on too tight or not tight enough or maybe my oil needs to be changed (oh yeah,I had a blown head gasket I changed the oil, but left the filter). I tried to attach a video, but this forum won't allow me. The video is also on my youtube page: Any ideas?
  6. I just replaced my timing belt in January of 2013 with this Rock Auto part, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3002526&cc=1190056 when my tensioner went out. It appears that the new belt has either melted or disintegrated. I can't understand what would make it go bad so prematurely. I haven't taken the entire timing cover off so I can't see if it is actually broken, but from the top it looks like it is stll wrapped around the cam gear but has no teeth. I've never seen anything like this before. Since the old belt wasn't bad, and I only replaced it because I thought it would be good pratice to replace the belt with the tensioner, I planed on putting it back on temporarily so that I can at least get my car back home. Will I need to remove the tensioner to replace the belt only? Will I have to replace the tensioner? Is there a way to retract the piston in the tensioner cylinder without damaging it? I really don't want to have to do this repair all over again, but I'd hate to replace a tensioner that is just a little ove a year old all do to a faulty belt. Any feedback will be greatly appreciated.
  7. I have several things going on with this 99 2.5L engine. I just bought the car and put a few thousand miles on it. Prior to it overheating: It did NOT burn oil It would choke up very briefly once and awhile when idling and would act like it was going to stall at low mph--The mass airflow sensor was clean, yet the problem went away when it was unplugged. Upon overheating: It sounded like it could have ran for two attempts at starting it. No audible compression occured on the third attempt. (The car was just under operating temperature by this time.) The timing belt seems about as taught as a serpetine belt and spins. (I haven't taken the cover off, just opened it enough to look.) Oil is on a spark plug boot (Valve gasket leak?) Oil is in the air intake ( PVC or piston rings??) Vapor puffs out of the water pipe but no water. When covering it with my hand, I can feel no pressure. (I filled it more than its capacity shortly after it overheated a month ago) When it overheated, my wife was going down the highway and said the car just lost power. She didn't know it'd overheated til I asked her. With little information, I can only eleminate the fan as causing the overheating. The compression loss seems likely to be either between the timing belt or piston rings, but I'm no expert, just going off what I've read. Right now, the only major noise is a fairly high pitch when the ignition is turned. This may just be the starter, especially since it's the only major sound. Surely, the starter would also make noise. So, is there a way to eliminate either the piston rings or timing belt as causing the compression loss without buying either one? Is there a way to determine if the oil pump is working? Or, due to the odds of this working, should I just buy a $200 salvage motor with a 30 day warrenty? Do any of you have a better idea of what else could be happening or how to salvage the situation?
  8. My serpentine belt broke while I was driving on the freeway. I pulled over as soon as I could. Now we had a mechanic replace it but it wont accelerate the needdle stays at 2ooo rpm but wont speed up.
  9. McAnic_Chad

    Oh Where Oh Where Is Tdc?

    I'm replacing the tensioner and belt on my 95 v6 and I can't find any marks on the crank that line up with the block anywhere. There are 2 dots on the crank but i don't see an actual mark. Any help?????
  10. I have a 1998 Mazda 626 4 cylinder. I had my timing belt replaced over 12,000 miles but less than a year ago. In June of this year I needed a new water pump. I took it to a different shop than the replacement of my timing belt to replace the water pump. 2 days ago I hear a revving noise and pull over and notice the bolt is off of the idler pulley. I drive it to the 1st garage thinking it was there fault but warranty was out. Have it towed to the 2nd garage and they said they never messed with the idler pulley but they did take off the timing belt to replace the water pump. I don't know much about cars but it seems to me that the 2nd garage is responsible. They are saying they are not responsible and I have over 2000 in repairs due to the bolt coming off or breaking off and they need a machine to get the bolt out? What is your opinion on this and what is the best route to take for the repairs. Thanks!
  11. I have a 96 626 2.0, i recently replaced the water pump, now the car has a rough idle and lags when i accelerate. Timing belt was marked prior to installation, so it shouldnt be the issue. When I put it in gear and hit the gas the car just lags like it doesnt have any power, once I come to a stop or am in traffic, the car will sputter and idle will drop very low and it sometimes stalls. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  12. Hi, I am just changing the VCG's on a 2002 626 V6 2.5L w/120,000 kms. The timing belt looks worn but the circumstances are not right to change it now (rainy canadian west coast + only partially covered shop). I would like to do the belts, water pump, idler, tensioner etc. this spring when the weather is better. There is belt crap under the cover (see pic) and some little chunks gone. How bad is this, how long can I expect it to last? Thanks in advance, -Tristan
  13. cardana24

    1998, 2.0 Engine Problem

    Hi guys, I just picked up a 1998 626 today. It has ~120k miles, it's a 2.0 and automatic. I was told that the car broke the timing belt....so therefore it needs an engine. When searching it seems like the 2.0 should be a non interference engine...so I am hoping I don't need to swap the engine. When I went to look at the car the timing inspection cover was already removed. When looking in at the belt from the right side of the car the left side of the timing belt had some slack on it and the right side of the belt was tighter....I pulled on the belt and could not get it to come out so I don't think the belt is broken, but I did notice one tooth/cog of the timing belt missing. Could the belt have lost a few teeth and skipped time and cause the same symptoms of a broken timing belt? I was told the engine did not have compression...I know if the timing belt is broken it would not have compression....but if it skips time would it also not have compression? Just looking for advice here....could I possibly have engine damage? Thanks for any help.