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Car

Found 11 results

  1. Hello there, first of all thanks for all of you guys working this forum. I've been able to fix this 626 I got. I'll be short: I've been experiencing coolant loss, checked all hoses, no punctures, my overflow tank "over fills" and I get coolant out (I top it just a tad bit over low level, say, mid level, and after driving for a relative mid distance I check the tank and it's topped). So I checked the hose that's below the overflow tank (overflow tank needs replacing, will get this weekend), disconnected it and blew air inside and into what I call "thermostat housing", and to my
  2. My car recently started overheating. 1996 Mazda 626 V6 220,000 miles We did replace the thermostat. I have the water pump but havent put it in yet as it appears to be quite a chore and wanted to get an opinion before I replace it. When it sits in idle with nothing on its fine temp gauge rests in the middle. Went for a short 7 minute drive and it slowly lifted to the H position. Today I had it parked and just ran it, it was fine. I turned on the heater and it took several minutes for it to rise above the middle section of the gauge. I switched to AC and it rose steadily to the H p
  3. The car is a 1999 Mazda 626LX V6 M-trans (VIN # 1YVGF22D2X5864368) with 280K miles. Just an old beater but I enjoy it too much to give it up. I
  4. Hey guys! So I started the car (99 Mazda 626 Es 4-cyl) early in the morning. After ~10 minutes, the temperature gauge began to creep towards the middle and the idle RPMs dropped to ~900, which usually indicates that the car is getting warm, so I went into gear and drove off. However, the heater was blowing cold air (I am assuming bringing in the same air from outside with unchanged temperature) and the temperature gauge slowly creeped from center all the way into H. No overheating was occurring though. I do notice that the heater does not blow hot air unless I have been traveling at a cons
  5. Hey! I just bought a 1998 626 (automatic) and the day after I bought the car, it overheated! Unfortunately when I test drove the car, neither my boyfriend or I noticed this. Well, because it didn't overheat on the test drive, or the drive home. So my question, to anyone else who may have has the same problem is why is this happening? Some more things to know: When it first overheated, the upper radiator pipe was steaming (I had a freak out and thought my engine was getting ready to blow) but luckily the radiator part with a lip that fits in the upper radiator hose was broken. So my boyfri
  6. Hi, My 1996 2.5L 626 just popped out the radiator cap two days ago while driving it, something I noticed because the serpentine belt started to squeal ('cause it was slipping do to coolant falling onto it). Bought a new cap and installed it, but after a day it did it again, coolant was flowing out the same cap, this time the cap did not pop out. And this second time, the heating gauge in the car panel was moving from overheating to cold back and forth. Also, the hose that goes from the radiator to where this cap is was completely sucked (like if something was sucking from one side but from th
  7. Problem solved... I've had some problems with the cooling system in my 2002 626 2.0L I4 over the last 8 months or so. Originally it actually overheated and once the problem was said to be fixed by the mechanic it happened again and again. The waterpump went out which was the original cause of it overheating and that got replaced right away, as did the hoses and thermostat. The last couple weeks I've had the same problem with it overheating or at least the dashboard gauge says it is. I've checked about everything I can on it, replaced the thermostat and expansion tank. The oil is fine so it
  8. Hey, so I am new to this site and don't really know much about it, but I thought id give it a try. Anyway, my 99 2.5l has been running great until acouple days ago. On my way to work driving about 60mph i saw the temp spike up just past the hot mark, then returned to normal. it did that probably twice during the 30 miles i drove. next day, same thing but a little worse. 3rd day, today, it started to go from normal to hot, from normal to hot, the entire trip. i replaced the thermostat(horrible pain in the neck with all the sensors). drove it for 5 minutes, overheated past hot again and did not
  9. hey, i have a 95 626 with a 2.5 manual, and the temp gauge sit just above center. is this right? ive had it for about 1 1/2 years and its always stayed just above center. just had the timing belt and water pump replaced (belt broke and pump was bad. thank god for non-interfacing engines) and it still sits at the same place. i checked the codes about 2 weeks ago and got a code for the "thermo water sensor" but i only got it once and havent seen the code sense then. so i figured it was a ghost code.
  10. I have a couple of questions in one. This winter, when I blast the heat, it has been coming our warm rather than hot like last winter. It takes almost 20 minutes for my car to heat up, and by that time I'm almost at work anyway. I've had a few people tell me that maybe my heater core needs to be flushed out. Another few people have suggested that my thermostat isn't working and needs to be changed. First, if the thermostat should go, will it remain open to prevent overheating? And second, how will I know it it's broken or not? I want to do a flush of the engine and heater core, change
  11. Hi all, 626 94’ 2.5L V6 (aus) I’ve been through a lot of other posts, but none seem to have my issue. Other than shes getting a bit tired.. For what ever reason both of my thermo fans have decided to not work at the appropriate time. Looking at the front of the car, the rhs fan is supposed to come on when the air con is on. It doesn’t. (The air-con also needs re-gassing). When the car gets to operating temperature, the LHS fan doesn’t come on either. The car is getting noticeably hotter than it should be, and burning oil. I know the fans’ themselves work, as I removed the clasp for the co
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