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Found 13 results

  1. Speakfordadead

    1984 626 2.0D Swap

    How in the world I get myself into these projects.... SMH I picked up an irwipi (it ran when I parked it), a 1984 Diesel 626 on Thursday. I have a 1988 Mazda B2000 that needs a motor. Perfect. I'm going to swap them. If anyone needs whats left of this 626, its on the Central Coast of CA. Side saddle to prop swap. Ive gleaned some information from others that the clutch itself does not swap. Its rumored that a 1990 Kia has the clutch I need. Can anyone verify this? Wiring Harness and ECM. I painstakingly removed the harness. all the relays, fuse block and other necessary items. I could not find the ECM.... i researched it and found that it was somewhere under the dash. I was unable to find any other information. I found a module, under the carpet, but it was very small and it said NGK spark plug company????? It was bolted to a zinc plate so I thought SWEET, I found it. I removed the plate and..... it was just a plate, there was no ECM attached to it. The motor is out and turns.... I'll replace the timing belt and all the others before I fire it. I'll pull the vacuum pump for the brakes on the pickup. The questions.... Did I simply over look the ECM somewhere?? Are the fuel lines and tank needing to be transplanted as well? Thanks in advance. I'll post pics later
  2. HELP HELP klze p5 build guy in need. Hi all!! My setup will be a lil diff. I have the curved neck kl31 101 1a1, running a pnpms2 with aemsmartcoil w/ quadspark , probe trans lightened flywheel, actdualstage clutch more will come lator but any wiring pics and info any of you have will be greatly appreciated. the pnpms2 ecu changes a few things but I want to run my 93 probe wiring harness on klze p5 the basic way to get it running Then add quadspark and othe stuff lator to stop confusion and I'm not referring to the cluster. I need to know what p5 wires stay and what gets deleted same on the 93 probe wiring harness being that we don't need all the emissions crap. do I tap probe charging wires to p5jbox or run separate? and the fuel pump what was done to run your fuelpump? did you run dedicated or use the p5 wiring but with probe fuelpump wired in the protege5 fb place? I know alot about auto wiring but this makes it diff being that its obd2 car but adding in an obd type standalone to an engine that used half the harness that the usdm kl used. PEASE HELP lol The truth is we are running out of options for this swap being no one does it anymore so hopefully no info will be withheld, I see a lot on here and other forums who don't want to help ppl all they want to do is wait for the first typo or misinfo to go on a all out bash spree just to hear their own self sound smart because they know more than the other, please save me the bs I just want to build my car and talk to ppl to confide in over our joint interests being klze swaps, mazda awesomeness ect. and if you are the guy (theres always one) who knows nothing yet continues to bs the crap out of ppl with "valvecovers make it faster" or similar please don't. I need real info. The reason for this is there are so many forums of this faint info and have yet to see a clear pic or something to help so I started this to be a main reference to the wiring portion of this swap for all who need to find pinouts and other wiring info. Once I have gathered all I will or someone else can make a detailed youtube video/s having all from start to finish on how to do the swap wiring. Id like to see the popularity of this swap to relive.
  3. Hello all. Been using this site for some much needed information lately - my project has come to a close .....almost. My last issue is something that keeps me from calling it "done" as far as the initial phase goes. I've got the 2.5 KLDE with a GF4A-EL ATX trans from a 626/mx6. I've gotten the ECU and TCM all pinned out and everything works great - except one major detail. While driving it, it will not shift from 2nd gear to 3rd. Nor will it go into O/D. Now....this trans was tested good, so I don't doubt the seller. I've also replaced the 2-3 and 3-4 solenoids. I've tested voltage coming out of the TCM that is on the control harness connected to the Transmission valve body - all voltages were within spec and in the correct state while driving. I did have a TPS error, but wouldn't think that'd make it not shift - because it does make it shift from 1-2. The HOLD light is NOT flashing, nor is the O/D off light. Everything seems to check as normal or that it's ok. The only parts that i have messed with would be in the valve body. I was going to put a Transgo shiftkit in it, but noticed it was the wrong kit. While I had the valvebody apart - I noticed some of the gasketry was very brittle and wouldn't take much to break.....as a matter of fact - there were a few flakes that came off of it and made me wonder something. Could the fact that those gaskets are so brittle and had chipped/flaked off cause this? Another thing that makes me wonder about the gasketry in there is that as soon as I removed the pan to replace the solenoids in the valve body pan - about 2-3 quarts of ATF came streaming out. Should there be that much residual fluid just floating around in the bottom of that case? Or - does that say that there's a serious leak somewhere inside that area the pan covers (valve body, valve body to case?). Just thought i'd run this past you guys/gals - because I haven't gotten much response on the other boards I'm frequenting for the info. Thanks and have a terriffic day!
  4. Current DD/Project 1991 MX-6 LX W/ Turbo swap _Mods_ Engine: -Performance Dual Valve Springs -Bosh DRI GT injectors -Walbro 190LPH Fuel Pump -ATX throttlebody with thermo spacer -EGR Block Off Plate -A/C Delete -Aluminum 2 Row 'custom' Radiator -Aluminum Lightweight Crankpulley -100% Emissions, PCV, EGR and Vacuum Rail Delete. -MSD Blaster 2 Coil Conversion -NGK Wireset, NGK Plugs -Spark Plugs/Wires Thermo Insulators Drivetrain: -Stock N/A Trans -Previous owner replaced clutch with OEM equivalent, I have not upgraded yet Turbo: - VF12/VJ11 Hybrid. VF12 Turbine, center section and compressor wheel, VJ11 Turbine housing, machined out to fit VF12 Turbine LINK -HKS Hardpipe kit, HKS SSQ Black Series BOV (Likely a knockoff) -Custom 2.5" O2 housing -Custom 2.5" Downpipe With Side Exit -OEM Intercooler Suspension: -25MM Wheel Spacers -16" Mitsubishi Ecplise wheels W/ 225/50/16 Cheapish Tires -AWR Trailing Links -Ground Control Coilovers -KYB GR2 Struts -Custom "Dutch" FSTB, OEM GT RSTB -OEM GT Rear Lower Tie Bar -89' Probe GT 18MM Rear Sway Bar -Energy Endlinks, Sway Bar bushings -Ebay Slotted Front Rotors W/ Ceramic pads MISC: -Autometer Vacuum/Boost Gauge -Innovative LC-1 Wideband/Gauge -Generic Sunpro 3 Gauge pod; Coolant-Volts-Oil Pressure -HKS Turbo Timer -ZKW Foglight Grill -Grant GT Steering Wheel -Generic 4PT racing Harness -Whistler Radar Detector -1080P 60FPS Dashcam -Manifold, O2 Housing and Turbo Center Section Painted 1000F Black -Valve Cover, FSTB and VAF Painted "Grabber Green" -Brass Shifter Bushings -Custom VAF Harness Extension Weight reduction: -Front Bumper Crash Bar and Support Removed -From the Front Seats Back, All Interior Removed -Battery Relocated to Rear of Trunk -A/C delete, Cat Delete General Maintence: -Gates Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idler -Disty Cap, Rotor -Fuel Filter -Wix oil Filter, Mobil1 5W30 -Felpro Valve Stem Seals -Frequent Alignments -Always filled up with Shell V-Power 91, Never Over Half a Tank, Save Weight
  5. ****Disclaimer Part 1**** I am not a certified mechanic, or an automotive expert. I am simpy someone that has ONLY owned an F2 or F2T engine car, and because of that, I happen to know a lot about it, and how to mess with it. Everything I have done is an experiment, a guess or an outcome of hours sometimes days or weeks or months of research. Multiply this by 6 years and I start to think I'm pretty good at it. I could always be wrong, forget something, or need to be corrected. ****Disclaimer Part 2*** If you question the health of your engine (leaks, drips, shakes, shimmys, bumps, knocks, pings, pongs, creaks, squeaks, squeals, rattles, taps, ticks, tocks, dings, dongs, unexplained smells or smoke DO NOT TURBO, FIX IT FIRST DUMMY!!! Hello! So you have a non-turbo 88-92 Mazda 626, MX-6, or ford Probe, and want to swap the turbo parts from a GT to make your car faster and cooler. Lets begin with what a GT F2T comes with that makes it a GT, (not necessarily what you NEED, but simply what makes it different than the F2) -Engine block (same shape and design only difference is extra nipples near the turbo for oil and coolant feeds/returns and different piston compression ratio) -Oil dipstick -Cylinder head (exhaust valves are heat treated, that's it) -Turbo, exhaust manifold, EGR pipe, intake pipes, charge pipes, intercooler -GT injectors (square plug for 88-89, oval plug for 90-92) -GT ECU (computer unit), that means the engine harness is different as well -Distributor, ignition system -Knock sensor (back of block) -Oil cooler, has coolant lines running to a sandwich plate the oil filter screws onto -Flywheel, clutch, c/v axles, transmission (all different from a non-turbo) and that includes engine and transmission mounts -Front wheel hubs (to support the different spline count on the GT c/v axles -Oil line that feeds the turbo (comes from back of the block, to the right of the oil filter) *two pieces* -Hard coolant pipe (wraps around front of block), has an extra nipple for turbo coolant hoses. On top of all that, the F2T has lower compression pistons than the F2, to allow for safer boosting and makes it literally fool proof (or very close) "But doesn't that mean if I turbo swap my non-turbo, I will make more HP than the F2T?" YES, much more. I will get to that soon. Ok, so your probably saying "wow, that's a huge parts list." Yes it is, BUT remember I said this is just what makes a GT, a GT. Not necessarily what you NEED to turbo swap your F2. "I'm not made of money, what's the bare minimum I need to turbo swap?" Hey, you're preaching to the priest on that one, I turbo swapped my F2 over night, with the absolute bare minimum, with a final cost of a little over $100 (the turbo was $90, so you probably see where I'm coming from lol) Minimum GT parts to make your non-turbo F2 Mazda into a F2-T: -Manifold, turbo, O2 housing, EGR pipe, exhaust downpipe -All intake pipes and clamps, including intercooler and OEM bypass valve unit -Metal oil line feed line (two pieces) from back of block, including the banjo bolt with the hole in it, and crush washer -**Injectors (higher flow rate than the non-turbo)** -Oil dipstick -Vacuum/boost gauge -Wideband tuning kit for reading air/fuel ration, and allowing you to PROPERLY tune your engine (I'm probably forgetting something, so I'll fix this if I remember or get corrected) -Extra vacuum line, coolant line, vacuum T's, fittings, clamps, and other stuff too probably *example* Turbo, manifold, and O2 housing: GT injectors: Charge pipes: Throttlebody boot, and other charge pipes: Intercooler: Where does the oil feed go????? There's a sensor in the way!!!!! Check it out: Dont forget the banjo bolt! Banjo bolt, BPV (Bypass Valve), GT dipstick and turbo support bracket: Problems with doing the bare minimum: 1. Because you swapped in the GT injectors, it will run super, super rich at idle and cruise, making it almost un-drivable (I will explain this) 2. You will not have coolant feed or drain for the turbo 3. There will not be a nipple for you to run the turbo oil drain line to 4. Your clutch cannot, and probably will not, hold the power you will now be making 5. There is a unit on the turbo called the boost solenoid, this controls boost levels. Because you don't have the GT ECU and harness, it will be unplugged, you can even remove it completely. Solutions for these problems: 1. **Important** (See below these steps) 2. If you tap into the coolant lines near the non-turbo distributor area, you can make a system that feeds the turbo (You will need extra hose, and T fittings) 3. If you JB weld (or equivalent), a barb fitting into the oil pan under the turbo near the drain pipe on the turbo, you can make a DIY drain hose into the oil pan *example* 4. Buy an reputable, (NOT EBAY), clutch kit that can handle the power. (Southbend non-turbo stage 2 kit for example) 5. Run a vacuum line dirrectly from the compressor nipple on the turbo, to the nipple on the wastegate. You should have between 7psi and 10psi of boost before the wastegate opens. 1. To solve the issue of running super duper rich, I took off the top plastic cover from my VAF unit to tighten the air metering door spring, and I also drilled out the idle mixture control plug, to adjust idle richness. I knew exactly what I was doing, and what the VAF does, I was able to have an absolutely perfect tune @10psi and over 25MPG. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE TO DO THAT The VAF unit is very sensitive, and once you change the OEM setting (unless you mark it) you can never go back. You might be asking, ok then, so can I use the non-turbo injectors? I never tried using the non-turbo injectors while boosting, I assumed that because of the lower flow rate, it would run too lean and be too risky. So I understand I told you to run the GT injectors AND not to touch the VAF....this is very contradictory and leaves a huge blank spot in the how-to. I cannot just simply tell you how to tune the VAF for GT injectors, I can only tell you what I did, and that I do not recommend the average Mazda owner to open it up and try to duplicate my results. What I did to lean my tune, to support the use of GT injectors on a non-turbo: Inside the VAF, under the plastic cover, is a wound up spring that controls the stiffness of the airdoor. How far this door opens, is how much fuel your injectors let out. Once you put in GT injectors, this door does not need to open as much, or as easily, since the new injectors dump in a lot more fuel. "Ok, I guess I understand...so I need to tighten the spring?" Yes, it is a 'click' setup. Turn the gear clockwise, and each click is a little leaner. Turn the gear counter-clockwise and it richens. Example: (This is inside the VAF, under the plastic cover, the arrow is pointing to the locking 'thingie' that stops the gear) The big black plastic block is controlled by the spring, and attatched to the door inside. The metal arm on this black unit, rides along a track and in turn tells the ECU how much air is pulling the door open. "Interesting, so how many clicks?" I can't really answer that, ever motor is different. For me, it was anywhere from 5 to 10 clicks clockwise, or more. And I was constantly adjusting this to account for further engine modifications, or tune-ups. For example, if you start up your car with GT injectors directly after the swap, you will notice how poorly it idles (if it even starts), and if you try to drive around, it will perform horrible, but probably boost. With the VAF cover off, you will see that the sensor arm is kind of bobbing around or at a steady location, the air the engine is sucking in, is pulling the door open, thusly telling the ECU how much fuel to dump in. Understand? You can use you finger the see how the arm inside the VAF controls the tune, gently push the arm so the door is less open, and it will get leaner, and maybe start running better, since it will be too rich to begin with. Push the arm so the door opens more, and the engine will probably stop running, because it will be too rich. Lets assume you've done what I have recommended you should not, and have gotten your cruise air/fuel ratio to a point that allows the car to drive and boost without blowing up or bogging down from too much fuel. There is a likely chance it will be too lean at idle (if you make it too lean), and either over heat, or want to stall. You shouldnt have to lean too much after the injector install, to the point where you need to richen the idle tune, but in case you do, and need to know how: Remember that idle air/fuel plug I mentioned? Here it is: There is an alluminum plug on the VAF that hides a brass adjustment screw, you can drill out the plug to get to the screw. BE CAREFUL, drill too far and you're screwed (haha, get it?.......) Turning it clockwise, allows less air to bypass the door, meaning it makes it as rich as possible at idle, counter clockwise, allows more air to bypass the door making the idle tune leaner. I used a universal narrowband air/fuel ration gauge and a volt meter hooked up to my O2 sensor, to get as good of a tune as I possibly could, at idle, cruis, and while boosting. Lot's of research, practice and a watchful eye on my spark plugs kept me from being too lean, and detonating while in boost (exploding my engine internals.) DISCLAIMER Part 3: Any mechanic, engine builder, shop or profesional will tell you that any change in air/fuel ratio or attempt to, should be made with a proper tuning device, and by someone who knows exactly what they are doing. NOT an of the shelf narrowband, since they have a less than a 1/4 of the ability of a wideband. Meaning, a wideband oxygen sensor and gauge is MANDATORY for tuning your air/fuel ratio, you should not even attempt to tune you car by sight/sound/feel alone. "Wait, but that's what you did...and that's basically what you're telling me to do" OK maybe, but I'm also saying do it at your own risk, and I'm not responsible if you blow up your motor, ok? Everything from ignition timing to tuning air/fuel ratio, I've done by sight/sound/smell/feel, and it's been close to perfect every time. Am I god? No, just really carefull, and have had lots of practice, for better or worse. If you expect your engine to last at all, properly setting your ignition timing along with constant maintence/inspection is a must. **This how-to is a work in progress, I need to spell check it, error check it, and make sure I didn't leave something huge out. Suggestions, corrections and constructive critisism is welcomed**
  6. Jakob626

    V6 Buick Swap

    Looking at swapping a buick v6 from a commodore into my 1978 sedan, just wondering if anyone has had any experience or sussgestion i would be very thankful
  7. 2.0L ATX to MTX Swap (also applicable for 1.8L FP) This one has been a long time in the making. A comprehensive ATX to MTX swap tutorial for the 2.0L FS engine. You can use this same basic procedure to swap any FS automatic to manual for the 626, MX-6, Probe, Telstar, or Protege. The Protege will have some difference and there are differences in components between years and models. You'll have to adapt these procedures for your application. Just for reference if you want to watch every episode back to back I have an ATX to MTX swap playlist. There are some videos there (junkyard trips 1-3) that are not included here that shows pulling the clutch system from a junkyard car. I did not include them here because they aren't good videos in my opinion and I was didn't know what I was doing. If you want to watch me struggle those 3 videos are available. Before you even think about starting on your swap you will need to begin collecting components for the swap. This can take weeks or months in itself. It is not an overnight process so if you plan on going through with a swap you'll want to purchase all of the following parts and tools (if you don't have them already). In most cases it will actually take you 3x longer to find and purchase all of the parts for the swap than actually doing the swap. ----------------------------------------------------- Tools ----------------------------------------------------- It is possible to do the entire swap with hand tools, I've done it. In place of an impact gun you can use a breaker bar and socket set. Impact gun (compressed air or professional electric capable of 200-300ft lbs of torque) OR 1/2" Breaker bar (1/4" breaker bar is not enough you will break it) Metric deep well socket set (required for driver-side engine mount) Metric normal socket set + ratchet Metric wrench set (every nut and bolt on a Mazda is metric) Phillips and Flathead screw driver set 1 Chisel of any size Carb/Throttle Body/Brake aerosol cleaner and aluminum or brass bristle brush Anti-seize lube Red loctite General purpose high temp grease (general bearing grease) Molybdenum grease if your clutch kit doesn't come with some Work Shop Manual from PMX626.info (consider the WSM as your bible, wouldn't have been able to do half the project without it) ----------------------------------------------------- Parts ----------------------------------------------------- Clutch parts include everything in this diagram. You will need EVERY labeled part in the diagram. You will need the MTX brake fluid reservoir as there is an additional line to it that the ATX fluid reservoir does not have. Recommend you also get the entire brake pedal assembly at the same time since the ATX brake pedal is much wider and will interfere with the clutch pedal. The MTX brake pedal is much smaller. You have to remove the entire brake pedal assembly to get at the clutch pedal assembly anyway. Just in case the image ever goes down (which it shouldn't) I'll just list all the parts: Clutch pedal assembly Clutch master cylinder Clutch lines (pipes & hoses) Slave cylinder Clutch fork & spring (should come with transmission but if not you'll need them) Throwout bearing Clutch Kit (clutch cover + pressure plate + clutch friction disc) I4 MTX Flywheel (recommend getting a new pilot bearing, some clutch kits come with a new bearing) I4 MTX brake fluid reservoir (you can re-use your existing ATX brake cylinder and swap over just the reservoir but if you do it ensure you get a new reservoir to brake cylinder seal from Mazda) Optional: If you want a full true undetectable swap then pick up an MTX brake booster. It's much smaller in diameter than it's ATX counterpart. The ATX brake booster will work perfectly fine on the MTX though. Here's a video on how to remove the clutch pedal. It's probably the hardest part of the clutch system to disassemble. Obviously you'll need the transmission and know how to select the correct version of the G25M-R. If you have a Protege find a G15M-R. Make sure it comes with a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and neutral safety switch (NSS). If it does come bundled then ensure to test them for continuity otherwise purchase new ones. In case you are wondering you will re-use the ATX to engine bolts to mate the MTX transmission to the engine. They're all the same around the bell housing. One thing that I didn't do which I wished I had was to take the G25M-R directly to a transmission shop and have them inspect it. I purchased my G25M-R directly from a transmission reseller that specialized in selling transmission and warrantied it for 30 days. I installed my transmission without any inspection which could have gone very bad for me. Luckily everything worked great but you should not trust that you will have the same luck. Have the transmission inspected and rebuilt before even thinking about installing it. Can't shift without the shifter and shift linkages right? They must be pulled from an I4. The V6 shift linkages are NOT compatible. I have a video to prove the difference between I4 and V6 shift linkages. Well to be honest the torsion bar (one attached to the shifter plate) is the only one that is different. Best to pick up both bars from an I4 if possible. I4 MTX axles with 2 new OEM C-clips from Mazda (aftermarket C-clips are known to cause issues). If you pull junkyard axles that come with c-clips and they look to be in good shape and not jutting out then they can be re-used. Both axles are different on the I4 ATX and MTX. They are not compatible. Ensure you get I4 MTX axles only. Above is what good c-clips look like. They are not jutting out which will cause the axle not to be able to be installed. The above axle will slide in and out no problem. I4 MTX axle nuts. You'll need 2 new ones from Mazda if your axles do not come with them. You can re-use them if the detent isn't smashed into smithereens as seen in the above photo. I4 MTX axle seals. Even if your G25M-R comes with axle seals it's not something you want to skimp on. Get 2 new seals one for each axle. I cover axle seal install during the series. I4 MTX flywheel bolts. You'll need 6 OEM flywheel bolts. It is imperative you only use Mazda flywheel bolts. You can not use the ATX flexplate bolts they are not compatible even though they might look similar they are a different length by about 2mm. Do NOT go with hardware store bolts for something as important as the flywheel rotating at over 6000 RPM. Using the wrong bolts can cause the flywheel to literally make your transmission explode from the inside. Do a youtube search for "flywheel explosion" and you'll see what I'm talking about. Flywheel bolts are definitely not worth skimping on. Get OEM bolts from Mazda. Yes they are expensive but they are worth not killing someone on the road and having that kind of liability hanging over your head. It's also a good picture showing the new pilot bearing in the middle of the flywheel. You can press in or hammer in the new pilot bearing just making sure it's flush and perfectly straight. I4 MTX clutch cover bolts. Recommend OEM Mazda bolts but you can safely use hardware store bolts if you want to save some money. Just be sure that the bolts fit perfectly and are the correct bolts otherwise don't risk it and go with Mazda bolts. By this time you should be familiar with your local Mazda parts department. Perhaps even being on a first name basis with the parts person. I4 MTX driver-side transmission mount (+ chassis side bracket) Pictured above you can see how much lower the MTX bracket sits. If you do not get the correct bracket then your engine will sit on an 15-30 degree angle in the engine bay. It will be pretty obvious that something isn't right which is what lead me to realize the brackets were different in the first place. (not good for your flywheel or engine). I4 MTX rear transmission mount (+ chassis side bracket ) The passenger-side mount and front mount are identical on the ATX and MTX. I didn't know the rear mount and bracket were also needed when this video was recorded but my transmission luckily came with both the rear mount and bracket already attached! Recommend you get new mounts instead of relying on junkyard mounts (rubber almost always blown in junkyard cars). You can still buy new mounts online. You cannot however buy the bracket. Brackets are a junkyard only item at this point. I4 Engine Harness & ECU. It is possible to use your ATX harness & ECU but you'll have a permanent O/D off light blinking and error codes. I went with my existing ATX ECU and harness because I have a 95. The 95 was a single specific year and finding the exact year ECU and harness proved to take more time than anything else. In the mean time you can get your swap up and running with the ATX ECU and harness then find the MTX ECU, harness, and distributor later. I4 MTX distributor (for 93-97 vehicles). If you have a 98-02 then you can reuse your existing ATX coilpack (626) or coil on plugs (Protege). I4 MTX cruise control diaphragm if you want to keep cruise control. The ATX cruise control diaphragm is different from MTX. I4 MTX EGR valve (different operation but looks identical to the ATX EGR valve) I4 MTX Throttle body stop switch (does not come on ATX 626) Either get only the switch or pick up an MTX throttle body that has it already. You can use your ATX instrument cluster but that's up to you. The MTX cluster is identical except it blacks out the PRNDL and O/D off indicators. You could simply dismantle your ATX cluster and black out the PRNDL and O/D off indicators yourself. I chose to stick with the ATX cluster and not care about the blinking O/D off light. Actually as you'll see later I get the MTX reverse light to light up the R on the ATX cluster as a neat modification. The ATX starter is compatible since the I4 flexplate and flywheel use the same tooth count. There is a lot of misinformation about that and I can only assume it's not the same for a V6 ATX to MTX swap. You can absolutely keep your I4 ATX starter. Don't underestimate the power of having a friend help you. Even if they know nothing about cars they can at least be there to use the jack if something goes horribly wrong. I'm not going to cover safety procedures that's up to you. I can say we took every safety precaution that we could think of having more jack stands than necessary plus a service jack as a back up. Andy was there for me at a time when I was under a lot of stress and needed help pretty badly. He answered the call and rose the challenge and has become an integral part of many of my videos.. Try to find another Mazda enthusiast in your area that is willing to help you and form a lasting friendship. When there was a puzzle I couldn't figure out Andy was right there with a good answer and vice versa. Two heads are better than one. By the time you're done you'll look back and be amazed at your accomplishment. 2 years later and I still can't believe what we accomplished with no prior experience. Having access to the Work Shop Manual is of critical importance! Sharing the experience with a friend is more rewarding than doing it yourself.
  8. Surely, some of you have tried swapping out the 2.0 for an inline or V6? I need suggestions based on ease...anything, anyone?
  9. Deasymx3

    93 Mazda Mx3 Rhd Swap

    I need to know what I need to get to get my klze switched to a rhd. (right hand drive) any help I don't know to much
  10. Hi everyone, I am new to this forum. I have been lurking for a while now! I don't really know too much about cars, but I am very desperate in learning all I can. I just recently bought a Mazda 626 LX. It is a 1999, 4 cylinder, automatic and it is white. It has become my baby in the past four months. I got it with 179K miles for 1400. Everything was working perfectly. I have put about 4 thousand miles on it. I go to college far from my home and so I have been back and forth a few times now. Just last weekend, I had a someone drive the way back and he tried to "rev" the engine. He thought he was being cool, showing a girl how to rev an automatic I guess. I know that's not good for the transmission. I bought the car knowing it had a bad design, but didn't think much of it. I thought mine would be the exception. The other day I was driving and it started acting like I was pressing the brake really hard every 50 meters or so. I had a friend drive it and they told me I needed new brakes. I let the car cool down and took it out to go get the brakes checked the next day. Obviously, I didn't make it. I had to pull over because it stopped accelerating. I would press the gas and the RPMs would go up but nothing would happen. I wouldn't go forward. Every once and a while it'd go backwards, but that was only by luck. I am in love with that car. I don't want to see it go. Also I got it at a really good price and everything else is working so wonderfully. My options: Get the car towed to a transmission shop and get it checked by a computer to see if it is a simple problem... Which would end up being cheaper. But I doubt it is a simple problem, so that may be a waste of time and gas. I don't want to keep bothering people to help me. Get the car to a transmission shop and get a rebuilt for around 2,500 to 3,000 dollars. That is worth more than the car. It would have a three year warranty, and as a college student, I am hesitant to pull out more loans. Get a friend with experience to buy a rebuilt tranny and do a swap in his garage. He has some experience. He said it might be around 1500 in the end. Sell the car as is and buy a new car. I don't know if I'd get maybe 500 out of it? Then I'd be down 900, without a car. I could also fix the car, then sell it. Hopefully only be down 300 or so. Then buy another car? Or should I keep it? And get a transmission cooler? I want the car for another 2 or 3 years. Sorry if I'm not making the most sense. This is all very complicated to me and I would very much appreciate some professional advice. I am asking everyone I know. I have been reading the other transmission feeds and it all seems so hopeless to me. Any information or advice would be so much appreciated!! Thank you for your time and for reading this post! I hope to become an active member if I can get my car running again! Nadya
  11. please help me with a list of vehicles i can pull these from. would also appreciate suggestions on easy upgrade opportunities off other vehicles. im repairing front end damage, heres my list: radiator and condenser mtd. fan assy. bumper and grill assy. air box pass and driver headlights,and mounting brackets (an upgrade here would be nice) air bags also found a broken egr silanoid. it was mounted to air box but no vac line to it. lost on this. it has 2 silanoids with 2 nipples each, need to know if any similar will swap ok and radiator resavoir thank you! going tomaro after work will check back
  12. Hi everyone, thanks so much for this awesome forum. It helped us out immensely over the past two weeks! We purchased a 99 626 a couple of weeks ago. This is my first Mazda, but I've had both a '91 Probe 2.2 turbo, and a 96 Probe with a 2.0, both with manual transmissions. The ad said it needed an axle, upon getting there, it was obvious that wasn't the issue. (Unless the axle was comprised of aluminum cans and bicycle spokes), it definitely wasn't the typical clicking noise. We still purchased it, even needing a tranny, 1000$ was a good deal, the car is in pretty nice condition. I drove the car approx. 25 miles home with no issues other than a check engine light and the racket:) Once we got home and started really checking it out, the axle looked fairly new anyway. (We figured it was the transmission, because the noise stopped in 4th gear and it downshifted 3 gears all at once when coming to a stop) Long story short, my husband is a mechanic, so I figured it would be a good time to ask for the 5 spd that I wanted. He has done a few swaps over the years for friends, so I was hoping it wouldn't be asking too much:) We got everything we needed for 475$, all supposedly out of another 99 4cyl from a local junk yard. Everything went pretty smoothly, finished in about 9 hours over 3 days, until last night. The car runs and drives great with the original computer in it, other than a rev loop it does intermittently (and the expected check engine light and o/d flashing). The problem is with the one that we purchased with the other parts. It isn't getting any fuel, no sound from the fuel pump, etc. Does this ecu need to be flashed at a dealership? I couldn't find any reference to this on the atx to mtx swap threads I checked out. Not sure if relevant, but the only key I received with the car isn't original, but a copy. No keyless, (not sure if it even has it?). I know there was something else I wanted to ask, so I will post again once I remember. Thanks in advance for any help/advice anyone can provide. I had great experiences with both of my probes (I tried to type this so it wouldn't sound so ridiculous, but couldn't manage to make it any less so) and I'm pretty excited to get my hands on another mtx, I've had autos for the past few years. Edit: The other question: Can anyone list any wiring changes that need to be made? We read the ones on the thread detailing swap steps, but wanted to make sure that we didn't misunderstand anything or miss anything that wasn't listed. Thanks again!
  13. ceo2009

    Tranny Swap

    Hey y'all, I have a 2001 626 LX ATX. I'm looking to do a tranny swap for anything MTX. Any suggestions as to what transmission I should be using, parts that would go with it and fir, and about how much it would cost. I want to do performance upgrades for my 6 but it seems to take a lot more work and money for an automatic. With a manual transmission, it'd be easier to get everything done. I have other reasons for the swap as well but this being my current reasoning to get it done. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated