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Found 7 results

  1. Hi all, I have an European Mazda 626 2.0L Diesel, production year 2000, with 280k km (174k miles) on the odo. Currently I'm having an issue that is very much temperature related. When it's cold outside and when my car stood still for a while (like overnight or, when really cold, after a working day), I'm experiencing issues (powerloss) between 1000-1500 RPM. After a while, when the engine is at a certain temperature or so, the engine runs just fine. Some more details: I only have this issue below 12°C / 54°F (or when the car stood still over the weekend, I might feel a few hickups between 12-15°C / 54-59°F) It started a few months before summer, dissapeared fully(!) during summer and started again just a few weeks ago When 11°C / 52°F I experience this only between about 1400-1500 RPM, the colder it gets, the wider this range becomes, starting at lower RPM Above and below the given range for a given temperature, the engine runs smooth So also no problem starting the car, engine runs smooth at 750-800 RPM When I think the engine is hot enough and the issue is gone, I can rev the engine and don't experience problems. However I might experience it again when I start to drive Between 9-11°C / 48-52°F I can start to drive shortly after starting the car as the issue dissapears quite soon The lower the temperature, the aggressive the issue, e.g. one morning at 7°C / 45°F after a standing still for the weekend, I couldn't rev the car above 1000 RPM (not by slowly increasing the revs nor by increasing fast) Diagnostics: I have an ODB2 connector at the leftside under the steering wheel but no luck getting data out of it with a bluetooth ELM327 and Android apps (it does work with other cars) I do not have error codes when bridging the TEN to GND in the 17-pin diagnostics connector Other things I want to let you know: I already looked into the (combined) MAF and IAT sensor, they where a bit dirty but not that much. Cleaning them didn't do much however I have a slight feeling that it may be a little bit colder before having the issue. I do not experience any increased fuel consumption, fuel consumption slowly decreased over the last 5 years from 6.1l/100km to 5.6l/100km At a garage (a general one, not Mazda), they said they couldn't read out my injectors but they suspect they might have become out of tolerance… Does this problem sound familiar to anyone? Or do you have tips to test something? Thanks in advance! Best regards, JeeCee
  2. fatmatt86

    Vibration In Idle

    So I have a 2001 626 lx 2.0 and have replaced all motor mounts and have noticed a significant difference. But while stopped or in park, if I turn the A/C on, it gets shaky, my rpm gauge drops down to 600. Also if I roll up my windows in park or while stopped, my rpm gauge drops and the car shakes. I'm dumbfounded. Don't know if it is the battery or alternator or something else. In Idle my RPM is 900 with minimal shaking. When I turn the AC on or roll up the windows it drops to 750-800 rpm and my dashboard lights go dim a little and the shaking happens. Also shakes when the fan is on. Any suggestion?
  3. I’m having some issues with the mid/upper rpm range power output on my vehicles. It struggles and feels like its not getting enough fuel to work efficiently. It also has shudders in power across any rpm above 2500. (1988 Mazda 626 2.2L N/a I4) What might this be? (Injectors, Clogged fuel filters, etc) And how might I diagnose the issue?Thanks for any input!
  4. 98MazdaAC

    Problems With Chugging

    I have a manual 1998 Mazda 626 I4. Does anyone have problems where when they are stopped, the RPMS drop a bit and the car chugs. I dont know why. It constantly has a small chug but sometimes it like to drop down and chug even harder.
  5. Hello guys, First I want to say thank you for all the information I get out of this forum and can't imagine how many times I was able to get help by just cross referencing older posts and DJDevon3 videos for fixes. I have owned 2000 Mazda 626s 4 cyl (auto) for the past 12 years and have fixed most of the usual trouble codes that pop up. This time is it getting a little out of hand and would like to get some help from the forum. My car RPM at idle seems to fluctuate and would drop and then come back to normal (~750rpm), some time the idle stays higher (1500) then drops to (750) after some time and will dip to 500 now and then. Car won't cut off at this point, but strains. the check engine light came on and I got two codes P0316, P-0304, p303. I knew it is a misfire, and because it is in the same bank, I changed 1. plugs (oem mazda) 2. Wires 3. Ignition Coil Car ran fine for a day, but the same problems started again. So I check out some possible causes and replaced 4. MAF sensor (used) 5. Crank Position sensor 6. MAP sensor Again ran fine for a day or two and symptoms started reappearing. This time I got just the P0316 code. So I decided to do more research and thought it might be a fuel issue. so I replaced 7. Fuel pressure regulator 8. Valve cover gasket Again the code came back with P0316 and P0304. I don't know where to go from here. Few random things that might mean something. 1. Car runs perfectly fine when driven, no misfire indication or dropping. Misfire only happens at Idle. Freeze frame shows the misfire at 0 mph and coolant temp 60. 2. It seems like coolant level in the reservoir is dropping a bit. I topped it off, I have to wait and see to confirm that. 3. While replacing the drive belt, the little single wire that attaches to some sensor in the power steering pump broke. Upon inspection it is fully corroded inside. I have to clean and put this back. Don't see any difference in the driving without it, but I will try to fix that today and tell if there is any difference. If any one has any suggestions please let me know. Thank you in advance.
  6. Scott Berger

    Faulty Tachometer

    I've got a 626 with a five speed and ever sice I've had the car (3 years now) the tachometers been broken. It kicks in at about 4000-5000 rpm but I'm not even sure if that's accurate. In 5th gear it kicks in at 75mph and just stays at 5500rpm. Any idea what's wrong with it or how to fix it?
  7. hey everybody so i finally bought the green 626 i have under my vehicles and it needs a little bit of work, one of the issues is the rpm gauge isnt working, the previous owner saud his brother changed the dash lights and since then it hasnt worked, i pulled the gauge cluster out and checked the connections and even pulle the rpm gauge out of the cluster and took it apart. nothing seemed to be out of place or unhooked and it still doesnt work, so can anyone help? much thanks everybody -Daniel