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Car

Found 5 results

  1. Recently my 1999 V6 began to kind of shake when stopped (such as traffic light) with RPM's jumping slightly. The roughness gets less intense when put into neutral but are still there. When accelerating, the car is stuttering and RPM's are jumping around while going up and it shakes too. Spark plugs have been changed within past 10,000 miles.
  2. I have a 2000 Mazda 626, and it has 186,000 miles on it. I bought it from my sister roughly 2.5 years ago, and the car's had idle problems practically since I got it. Back in the summer of 2011, the idling had gotten so bad that my car would stall in traffic, at stop signs, stop lights, drive thrus, in park etc. I took it to a shop to have it tuned up and explore other possible problems, and I was informed that my spark plugs were bad and that's what was causing the stalling. After they'd replaced the spark plugs, the mechanics told me that my idler was bad and that my car would still idle but not stall out. I'm not sure if they meant my IAC valve or IAC motor was bad. In the past few months, my car's idling problems have progressed to where during times where my car idles, my RPMs fall way below 1000 and close to zero. My car shakes and sputters extremely roughly until it dies (this usually happens when I'm in park or idling for longer than a few minutes -- otherwise, it just shakes and sputters), unless I press my foot on the accelerator a bit. If my RPMs are up, my car is fine. It's just when I idle that it is so terribly awful. Also, for example, if I've been in park with my foot on the accelerator to keep the car from dying, the car stalls as soon as I take my foot off the gas to switch into reverse or drive. I do keep my foot on the accelerator whilst in park at places like the bank or otherwise stopped and in park for an period of time for longer than a minute or two. Sometimes, my car won't stall after I take my foot off the accelerator after being in park, but it still shakes and sputters as if it's about to die. Yesterday, my car died twice in traffic -- once at a stop light and the other time at a stop sign. A friend told me that my idle air control valve was probably on the fritz, so I ordered the part from AutoZone. Before I open the box and render the part unable to return, I figured I'd get some feedback from you all here on the 626 site. I'm becoming increasingly annoyed and am very ready for this problem to be fixed. The reason I didn't get it fixed before now is that I simply haven't had the money, and I'm ready now to just get it over with. I appreciate all feedback and suggestions I may get! Thank you. PS. I'm more than willing to answer anymore questions about the car if it can help narrow down possibilities. Also, I know next to nothing about cars. Forgive me if I seem ridiculous.
  3. 1999mazdaspeed626

    Rough Idle?

    Recently I was driving and my timing belt broke. At the time the car was running good. The only problem was it was leaking coolant but turns out that was from the water pump. So I get the timing belt and water pump replaced. When I go to get my car from the shop after those being fixed it won't start. The mechanic there got it started but had to step on the gas pedal. He said he wasn't sure exactly why and to drive it until the CEL came on and get it ran. It came on and I go back and it throws codes for a bad o2 sensor, egr valve and maf sensor. And they said that it was a vacuum leak and they weren't sure from where exactly but they said they had an idea of where to start and what to replace ($400 estimate). Given that it's drivable I decided to try to fix it myself. It has a rough idle that surges. And a loss of power. It just runs shitty. I started by fixing the o2 since that was easy and can cause other problems. After fixing that it runs better and has more power but still slightly surges and it doesn't quite have the power it used to. After doing research I can't narrow it down. But I plan on clearing the codes and seeing what comes up again. But what does it sound like? Is it possible it's just timed wrong or does it sound like an egr problem? Or maf? I bought maf cleaner but there's a weird screw (idk if it's torx or star bit) but I can't get they off so I can't try cleaning that
  4. Here's the rundown on things. I've had problems with rough shifting since I bought my car about a year ago. The previous owner had the transmission either replaced or rebuilt. I finally took it to Goodyear to find out what was causing the shifting problem. The guy told me "whoever worked on the transmission had no business working on cars period." Long story short, most of the bolts in the transmission as well as the transmission mount and four motor mounts had to be replaced, costing me around $930. The guy also told me someone had messed with the idle and he adjusted it back to where it was supposed to be, however that wasn't listed on the receipt. Anyway, the car has always idled low and rough before the repairs. You can imagine with the mounts and transmission in the shape they were in. Since the repairs, it idles low and vibrates in drive and reverse. It gets even worse if the A/C is on. The problem isn't apparent in park and neutral. I cleaned the throttle body out with some cleaner and a toothbrush, but that didn't seem to help. To make matters worse, the engine light came on yesterday; code P0507: Idle Control System RPM Too High. It seems to me that it's idling too low in drive and reverse. The car starts to vibrate pretty bad. Anyway, the readings for RPM in park and neutral are around 1,100 and in drive and reverse are around 750. I've never had this code until the guy said he adjusted the idle to the correct spot. I tried checking for a vacuum leak using throttle body cleaner, but didn't find anything. I'm no expert, though, so I could've easily missed it. Any suggestions? Also, I noticed when I removed the hose that goes from the throttle body to the air box or whatever that thing is there seemed to be moisture on the edge of the part where the hose connects--not the throttle body, but the other side, I guess the air box.
  5. troll2fan

    Low, Rough Idle

    My car has recently been disassembled and put back together again, and everything was working just fine until I went out for a bite to eat! I started it up in the parking lot and it idled down to about....200-300 rpm. I was worried the engine was going to kill, so I put a little gas on it to get the rpms up. It didn't end up killing, but whenever I took my foot off of the gas pedal, the rpms would plummet down to 200-300 and shake the whole car! Has anyone had a similiar problem? I was thinking it's a problem with the idle air control valve..Either that or it could be a result of my having taken off the valve cover to clean it. I put the valve cover back on with a Felpro gasket, and I used sealant and all that jazz, but I didn't have a torque wrench...I just used a ratchet wrench. What do y'all think? Anything helps! Kevin
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