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Found 17 results

  1. Hi guys, my v6 manual transmission cronos developed a rough idle a day after changing a leaking water pump (which I suspect was damaged by a seized thermostat). What are most likely problems causing this? And can I travel a 90mile distance with it while its idling rough? Thanks
  2. My 1993 Mazda 626 2.0 automatic has had a very, very rough idle for years! Especially when you turn on the AC which is most of the time here. The whole car shakes! There is a very uninformative video on YouTube in which someone describes and shows his rough idle. His title says “bad torque converter” but there is no other information. Since I have replaced nearly every other thing including the engine and the transmission, maybe it’s time for a torque converter? Can anyone explain this or give any more information?
  3. Hi, everyone! I'm the proud owner of a 2000 626 ES/LX. I'm having a few issues with it, though. One of them is that I get a very rough idle, that I noticed becomes even worst when the alternator kicks in (or, should I say, when there is some load on the alternator, like lights, or even radio). My OBD2 tells me that at idle my engine load is around 90%, and in neutral it is an exact and stable 90.196%. I'm also having some transmission issues, especially in cold mornings (<30F) that go away as soon as the engine gets some heat. I don't know if that could be related.
  4. I have a 2002 mazda 626 2.0 l4 When idling at a stop sign or red light, it shakes and runs rough and sometimes stalls. Putting it in neutral, it will go back to a smooth idle. Any thoughts? I have only had the vehicle for about 4 months, so i don't know of how well this car has been maintained. I have replaced the spark plugs, oil change with full synthetic, I have a new Air Intake Man Gasket and Throttle Body gasket that I will be replacing later this evening. Maybe the MAF? The codes are saying misfire in cylinder 1 & 3. Also saying system too lean?
  5. Since late November/15, my 626 has been idling very rough. When it's time to accelerate, the roughness disappears for the most part. I've had a number of things done to the car since then but I don't know what the problem is. Here is a list a items I have had done (some more recent than others) that I feel may have a hand in this problem. June/14 - fuel pump, filter replaced December/15 - plugs, wires, engine gasket replaced January/16 - replaced ignition coil (cleaned throttle) January/16 - replaced power steering belt, alternator belt, fuel filter, timing belt and water pump I
  6. Bought my '97 626 in September this year, 144K on her, had absolutely no apparent issues..... October comes around and the Check Engine light begins to turn on and off and on at random intervals. Checked for the code and it was a P1506 - Idle Air, Overspeed, Vacuum Leak, etc. A few weeks pass, suddenly the car begins to have issues idling smoothly and she wouldn't turn over properly, some times won't turn over after 5-10 seconds, or would turn over after one go at 'er and it would stall - very rarely I might add.. November comes by and the check engine light turns off.... absolutely no pr
  7. I have a 2001 626 2.0 automatic, I am the 2nd owner and the car now has about 135,000 on the clock. About 2 years ago the engine developed a rough idle. I have replaced the following parts while trying to get it smoothed out: plugs, wires, ignition module, fuel pump. fuel filter, air filter, timing belt and tensioner, intake manifold gasket and vacuum hoses. I have cleaned the IAC valve, mass airflow sensor, egr valve, and had the fuel injectors sonically cleaned and flow tested. I have also replaced the engine mounts and cleaned the ground points. I have tested the fuel pressure regulat
  8. Ive been having this issue lately where at idle the tach needle jumps. Its almost like its starts to drop too low then something kicks it back up. Under the hood I can actually hear this happening. There's a click then the revs increase. Thats not the pressing issue right now but might be tied in with the issue. I had heavy rain on Monday in my area and as I was getting off the highway, stopped at a light, the car started running very rough. As i pulled away it felt like it was breaking down. The CEL was flashing, it felt like it was missing, there was a bad odor that I could not identify. It
  9. Hi, I have a 2002 (2.0) with an intermittent rough idle (almost stalls at a light). Being a bit lazy and cheep, I've been dumping a thing or Lucas fuel treatment during a fill-up when it gets bad and managed to get by for a year but my luck is running out. There is a new development: after I drive the car for a while in the hot and muggy Louisiana weather and turn it off and let it sit for about an hour, it barely starts and idles really rough till I drive it for a while. Worse yet, if I stop and turn it off again it won't start at all and I get to do some walking. Any person who understands
  10. Hey guys, firstly i would like to thank all you guys who actually respond to these kinds of question and chip in your "two cents" in to it. MUCH OBLIGED! Had two CEL codes. 421, and another one that said something about the purge control. It used to idle really bad in Drive and reverse but it had a pretty decent idle in neutral. Also had horrible idle when the AC was on. i tried pretty much everything i could find on these forums. Here is what i've done so far Check for all vacuum leaks, Replaced: PCV and Both O2 Sensors, took off a purge solenoid off a junkyard. Clean; MAF, Throttle B
  11. I started having rough idle problems. Such as when I would push the clutch in at a stop light.Its a 1999 Mazda 626 with the 2.0 and manual tranny. I have taken apart the plunger part of the IACV and cleaned it, took apart the EGR and cleaned it, Cleaned the MAF. The problem has gotten better but not great. I replaced the Plugs, Fuel Filter and PCV. Then Car would not idle at all and needed the throttle to even run. So I put back in the old plugs, Fuel filter, and PCV.Car ran ok again. So this time just new plugs.-Car wouldnt run. then JUST PCV- Car wouldnt Run, THen Just the Fuel Filter, Car w
  12. I have a 1998 4 cylinder automatic My issues are: 1) Sitting at a red light for a bit, the car starts to idle really rough and seems to want to stall but then the rpms kick up and is smooths out a little. 2) When accelerating, the car hesitates, shakes and bucks and then smooths out. What can I try and do to fix this? Thanks
  13. Hi Everyone, I have been reading here for a while and benefited from a lot of good information. I recently found a problem that was unusual, unexpected and a real bear to figure out so I thought I would post it here in case someone else could benefit. My car is a 97 626 2.5L v6. I was having a lot of rough idle and sort of came and went randomly. I spent a lot of time looking for vacuum leaks and could not find anything. I had some other weird issues like hard starting when cold and regularly lean fuel trim readings although I was not getting a check engine light. I finally decided that at
  14. Good day people I am having a problem with my 1996 mazda 626 V6 2.5l manual transmition .when i start it in the morning it starts without giving problems but i have noticed that after i drive for 20 or so minutes it stalls on me .This is happening mostly after coming to a stop on a traffic light and if i try to start it it will refuse till i wait for some 10 or so minutes for the engine to cool a bit .It will start but stall again .As an interim measure i have resorted to driving while removing thefan switch so that my radiator fans are always running and if i do that it doesnt stall one me .
  15. I have a 96 626 2.0, i recently replaced the water pump, now the car has a rough idle and lags when i accelerate. Timing belt was marked prior to installation, so it shouldnt be the issue. When I put it in gear and hit the gas the car just lags like it doesnt have any power, once I come to a stop or am in traffic, the car will sputter and idle will drop very low and it sometimes stalls. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  16. Hello! First post here. 2000 Mazda 626 V-6 2.5L. Car started idling rough. Changed out spark plug wires, spark plugs, and ignition coil. No change. Discovered cylinder 6 new wire was fouled out and arcing to the block. Changed wire out and the car ran like a top. We went in and ate (30 mins) and came out and started car and back to the rough idle and poor performance. Found vacuum leak at the air check valve. LIttle green/white unit. Removed intake and found both reservoirs were cracked out. I am hoping this could explain the rough idle. Can not locate any of these parts online and
  17. so i tried to start the car, and it spluttered and protested and refused point blank to start... during this time there's a strong whiff of petrol, probably i think coming from the exhaust... after a while, it splutters some more and starts to feel like its only firing on 2 cylinders, and then dies... if i hold the throttle open, it starts, and it idles high and unevenly... not a major uneven, just enough to see on the tach... its not losing vacuum, there's no blockage in the intake or exhaust, and i've checked iat sensor, iac valve(electrically), injectors(again electrically, its possible
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