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Found 16 results

  1. My 1993 Mazda 626 2.0 automatic has had a very, very rough idle for years! Especially when you turn on the AC which is most of the time here. The whole car shakes! There is a very uninformative video on YouTube in which someone describes and shows his rough idle. His title says “bad torque converter” but there is no other information. Since I have replaced nearly every other thing including the engine and the transmission, maybe it’s time for a torque converter? Can anyone explain this or give any more information?
  2. High engine load at idle

    Hi, everyone! I'm the proud owner of a 2000 626 ES/LX. I'm having a few issues with it, though. One of them is that I get a very rough idle, that I noticed becomes even worst when the alternator kicks in (or, should I say, when there is some load on the alternator, like lights, or even radio). My OBD2 tells me that at idle my engine load is around 90%, and in neutral it is an exact and stable 90.196%. I'm also having some transmission issues, especially in cold mornings (<30F) that go away as soon as the engine gets some heat. I don't know if that could be related. Any clues?
  3. I have a 2002 mazda 626 2.0 l4 When idling at a stop sign or red light, it shakes and runs rough and sometimes stalls. Putting it in neutral, it will go back to a smooth idle. Any thoughts? I have only had the vehicle for about 4 months, so i don't know of how well this car has been maintained. I have replaced the spark plugs, oil change with full synthetic, I have a new Air Intake Man Gasket and Throttle Body gasket that I will be replacing later this evening. Maybe the MAF? The codes are saying misfire in cylinder 1 & 3. Also saying system too lean?
  4. Since late November/15, my 626 has been idling very rough. When it's time to accelerate, the roughness disappears for the most part. I've had a number of things done to the car since then but I don't know what the problem is. Here is a list a items I have had done (some more recent than others) that I feel may have a hand in this problem. June/14 - fuel pump, filter replaced December/15 - plugs, wires, engine gasket replaced January/16 - replaced ignition coil (cleaned throttle) January/16 - replaced power steering belt, alternator belt, fuel filter, timing belt and water pump It seems like it is not getting enough fuel. It gets just enough to run though. As I said, when accelerating, no problem. At idle, running very rough. Some have mentioned a sticking EGR valve. I haven't gone there yet. Any thoughts out there??? - 626james P.S. I'm not ready to put this car down yet. It's been very good to me as I am to it.
  5. Myriad Of Problems

    Bought my '97 626 in September this year, 144K on her, had absolutely no apparent issues..... October comes around and the Check Engine light begins to turn on and off and on at random intervals. Checked for the code and it was a P1506 - Idle Air, Overspeed, Vacuum Leak, etc. A few weeks pass, suddenly the car begins to have issues idling smoothly and she wouldn't turn over properly, some times won't turn over after 5-10 seconds, or would turn over after one go at 'er and it would stall - very rarely I might add.. November comes by and the check engine light turns off.... absolutely no problems what so ever! Ran for 3 weeks beautifully as it came out of Limp Home Mode caused by the Check Engine light. Fourth week of November swings around and suddenly it's back.............. and this time with a vengeance. Regardless of LHM being active due to the Check Engine signal from the computer, the accelerator begins to act really strangely while driving. It won't get to any RPM steadily, it'll go up or down 100-200 RPM. So if I was at 2000 RPM, it'd fall below to 1800-1900 and/or go up to 2100-2200. As soon as I let off the gas, she'd drop extremely quick to 1200 RPM and shudder the vehicle extremely hard all the way to 1200 RPM, and if I was unlucky, drop beyond to 800 and shudder even harder as it fights to get back up to 1200. Now since 3 days ago, the starter is acting up hardcore, some times won't turn over, some times starts and stalls immediately... Some times runs like a champ despite LHM being active.. The most recent and dangerous thing it has done was I'll be driving and as soon as I let off the gas, the car stalls. I've also noticed my dash lights are all coming on when I step on the brake - meters and climate control, even the chime that tells you your dash lights are on gets tripped - and even further, my clutch is making some sort of sliding noise in unison with the lights coming on. To complicate matters further, I can let it sit at idle while warming up, not touching anything and my clutch will make its noise too and it happens far more often when the dash lights are on, less when the headlights are on. (I don't understand that one) All the while idling, those issues going, my idle is also taking sharp dips from 850 to 400-500 also in unison with the clutch and dash lights. I should note that when the noise and lights thing is happening while the idle is taking nose dives, that the lights all dim out. I cannot spot anything obvious or apparent under the hood that's causing ANY of these issues, and even the vacuum leak I have isn't apparent because a smoke test revealed zilch, nada, nothin but as soon as LHM turns off, the car returns to full functionality............... except for this week's issues which remain quite prevalant. All liquids and such are topped off and the air filter is clean and newish. Didn't see any blown fuses. ./thread Also, hello, new to the forums, new-ish to my 626 which seems to hate my guts.
  6. Rough Idle

    I have a 2001 626 2.0 automatic, I am the 2nd owner and the car now has about 135,000 on the clock. About 2 years ago the engine developed a rough idle. I have replaced the following parts while trying to get it smoothed out: plugs, wires, ignition module, fuel pump. fuel filter, air filter, timing belt and tensioner, intake manifold gasket and vacuum hoses. I have cleaned the IAC valve, mass airflow sensor, egr valve, and had the fuel injectors sonically cleaned and flow tested. I have also replaced the engine mounts and cleaned the ground points. I have tested the fuel pressure regulator and every solenoid I can find, all to no avail. The greatest amount of motion is coming from the transmission side of the engine. The vibration disappears at 1000 rpm and occasionally stutters during acceleration of the line. The greater the load on the engine, ie the a/c turned on, and the rough idle becomes positively diabolical. I know 2 other 626 owners with the same problem so you could cure 3 for one. Vacuum seems strong at all vacuum line points. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Ive been having this issue lately where at idle the tach needle jumps. Its almost like its starts to drop too low then something kicks it back up. Under the hood I can actually hear this happening. There's a click then the revs increase. Thats not the pressing issue right now but might be tied in with the issue. I had heavy rain on Monday in my area and as I was getting off the highway, stopped at a light, the car started running very rough. As i pulled away it felt like it was breaking down. The CEL was flashing, it felt like it was missing, there was a bad odor that I could not identify. It started to get better about 3 or 4 minutes later. I was close to my destination at that point so I parked it. I looked under the hood and something was smoking by the radiator, but no radiator fluid smells and temp gauge was normal. It started up fine later on but did feel like there was intermittent slight misses. Ive felt worse so this just a slight hesitation. I sprayed some silicone on the coil pack and wires and some electrical connections and it seemed to be fine, and had no pending codes. I bought some throttle body cleaner, sprayed a little in the throttle body but didn't/won't have time to do a full clean until saturday. Yesterday my check engine light came on with a p0421 code. I feel like it all related and I fear that the throttle body cleaner possibly fouled the o2 sensor. The idling issue still persists and the idle is a little rough but my exhaust is also broken after the second cat. I patched it but it broke again so its loud and rough. Unless the exhaust is broken somewhere else now it shouldnt throw that code but i havent been under there yet since the patch. I replaced the spark plugs not too long ago, less than a month and i didnt notice any oil fouling on the old ones. I was planning on doing the wires soon and the air filter but have just been short on cash lately. I think I gave all info so anyone have any input?
  8. Rough Idle

    I started having rough idle problems. Such as when I would push the clutch in at a stop light.Its a 1999 Mazda 626 with the 2.0 and manual tranny. I have taken apart the plunger part of the IACV and cleaned it, took apart the EGR and cleaned it, Cleaned the MAF. The problem has gotten better but not great. I replaced the Plugs, Fuel Filter and PCV. Then Car would not idle at all and needed the throttle to even run. So I put back in the old plugs, Fuel filter, and PCV.Car ran ok again. So this time just new plugs.-Car wouldnt run. then JUST PCV- Car wouldnt Run, THen Just the Fuel Filter, Car wouldnt run..So I am back at square one. OLD fuel filter, OLD plugs, OLD PCV..and Car only idles ok. What are your guys thoughts? I am at Whits end with this thing. I just want the Thing to idle fine..
  9. Hey guys, firstly i would like to thank all you guys who actually respond to these kinds of question and chip in your "two cents" in to it. MUCH OBLIGED! Had two CEL codes. 421, and another one that said something about the purge control. It used to idle really bad in Drive and reverse but it had a pretty decent idle in neutral. Also had horrible idle when the AC was on. i tried pretty much everything i could find on these forums. Here is what i've done so far Check for all vacuum leaks, Replaced: PCV and Both O2 Sensors, took off a purge solenoid off a junkyard. Clean; MAF, Throttle Body, EGR (Replaced the gaskets as well) Flushed the coolant and put new coolant in. Reset the Computer SeaFoamed the car into the brake booster. Spark Plugs have been gaped. (not professionally) And maybe something else that i don't remember at 11pm Another possible problem is i went to a proper mechanic and he said i need a new cat for the back. I think its the one after precat. He said it clogged up and is colder than the one closer to engine by 50F. All of the parts were filthy and now the car works significantly better. Better acceleration and the car struggles less, however, still had pretty rough idle and the rpms dropped sometimes when car was warm. the first time i cleaned out the AIC i had to give it a little bit of gas to get the car going but then it worked ok but still idled pretty low at around 500 or so. Today i flushed the coolant and remembered i didn't do the AIC Properly (i took apart the spring and didn't put it back so it was snug in there.) So i took off the AIC put the spring in it so it is snug, (took of the negative terminal on the batter and pressed brake 40 seconds to reset computer) Now i have to give the car gas so it starts everytime. The car has incredibly low idle at around 500, at this point power steering isn't doing its job either, and when i crank up the heater all the way it drops even lower. ANY IDEAS? Thinking of going to junkyard and getting a new IAC (Plunger part). But i'm getting OK resistance though. I'm getting 9.0, it is supposed to be 7-9.3. This is all done on a 1998 Mazda 626 2.0L with Automatic transmission with around 160k miles on it.
  10. Hi Everyone, I have been reading here for a while and benefited from a lot of good information. I recently found a problem that was unusual, unexpected and a real bear to figure out so I thought I would post it here in case someone else could benefit. My car is a 97 626 2.5L v6. I was having a lot of rough idle and sort of came and went randomly. I spent a lot of time looking for vacuum leaks and could not find anything. I had some other weird issues like hard starting when cold and regularly lean fuel trim readings although I was not getting a check engine light. I finally decided that at 225,000 miles it wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel injectors with remanufactured ones especially because the price was not too bad (around $30-40 each). As it turns out, my existing fuel injectors were probably pretty clean but the inlet screens on them had deteriorated badly and many were broken so it was good that I replaced them. When I pulled the fuel rails and removed the injectors (got some tips for making this easier on this site - thanks) I found a tiny black rubber flake that was blocking one of the injector inlets. That is the kind of thing that certainly could cause rough idle. I found 5 or 6 more flakes hiding in the hollow bolt on the end of the rail. After some head scratching I realized that the fuel hose that connects the fuel rails was deteriorating on the inside of the hose and was releasing a bunch of rubber flakes into the bank 2 (front bank) fuel rail. It was like the inner layer of rubber had just peeled away from the rest of the hose and was breaking up into little bits. At a later date I changed the fuel pump and found a bunch of really tiny little rubber flakes clogging up the fuel return hose valve. Here are some pictures of the hose after I sliced it open to get a good look at it. I am not sure why the hose would fail like this, maybe it was a problem with forming the hose or the rubber formulation or maybe some weird fuel system cleaner I used at one time. Hopefully if someone else has an intermittent rough idle issue that is caused by this, they can check on that hose (it is pretty easy to get to) and maybe save themselves some $ and grief.
  11. Need Some Advice Please

    Hi, I have a 2002 (2.0) with an intermittent rough idle (almost stalls at a light). Being a bit lazy and cheep, I've been dumping a thing or Lucas fuel treatment during a fill-up when it gets bad and managed to get by for a year but my luck is running out. There is a new development: after I drive the car for a while in the hot and muggy Louisiana weather and turn it off and let it sit for about an hour, it barely starts and idles really rough till I drive it for a while. Worse yet, if I stop and turn it off again it won't start at all and I get to do some walking. Any person who understands the agony of standing in front of a Mazda service manager please be kind and share your knowledge. Thanks a bunch in advance! Vas
  12. I have a 96 626 2.0, i recently replaced the water pump, now the car has a rough idle and lags when i accelerate. Timing belt was marked prior to installation, so it shouldnt be the issue. When I put it in gear and hit the gas the car just lags like it doesnt have any power, once I come to a stop or am in traffic, the car will sputter and idle will drop very low and it sometimes stalls. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  13. I have a 1998 4 cylinder automatic My issues are: 1) Sitting at a red light for a bit, the car starts to idle really rough and seems to want to stall but then the rpms kick up and is smooths out a little. 2) When accelerating, the car hesitates, shakes and bucks and then smooths out. What can I try and do to fix this? Thanks
  14. Rough Idle, Poor Performance

    Hello! First post here. 2000 Mazda 626 V-6 2.5L. Car started idling rough. Changed out spark plug wires, spark plugs, and ignition coil. No change. Discovered cylinder 6 new wire was fouled out and arcing to the block. Changed wire out and the car ran like a top. We went in and ate (30 mins) and came out and started car and back to the rough idle and poor performance. Found vacuum leak at the air check valve. LIttle green/white unit. Removed intake and found both reservoirs were cracked out. I am hoping this could explain the rough idle. Can not locate any of these parts online and doing everything possible trying to avoid dealership which is 60 miles away. Can these cracked and broken components create a bad idle? Does anyone have an of these they can spare? Care has 170,000 miles on it and trying not to invest a ton of cash into this repair. I am not a mechanic by no means but like to think I can follow directions. Any help or advice is hugely appreciated. Thank you in advance.
  15. Good day people I am having a problem with my 1996 mazda 626 V6 2.5l manual transmition .when i start it in the morning it starts without giving problems but i have noticed that after i drive for 20 or so minutes it stalls on me .This is happening mostly after coming to a stop on a traffic light and if i try to start it it will refuse till i wait for some 10 or so minutes for the engine to cool a bit .It will start but stall again .As an interim measure i have resorted to driving while removing thefan switch so that my radiator fans are always running and if i do that it doesnt stall one me . what could be the problem i changed the fuel filter that was very dirt thinking it was starving the vehicle of fuel and thought i had solved the problem only to stall on me after a day .I would appreciate your help as i am confused now Cleopas
  16. so i tried to start the car, and it spluttered and protested and refused point blank to start... during this time there's a strong whiff of petrol, probably i think coming from the exhaust... after a while, it splutters some more and starts to feel like its only firing on 2 cylinders, and then dies... if i hold the throttle open, it starts, and it idles high and unevenly... not a major uneven, just enough to see on the tach... its not losing vacuum, there's no blockage in the intake or exhaust, and i've checked iat sensor, iac valve(electrically), injectors(again electrically, its possible that one has mechanically failed), crankshaft position sensor, camshaft position sensor, spark plugs were new not long ago and i cleaned them while they were out, compression test reveald nothing out of the ordinary, its even had a fresh battery(a spare i had lying around), and nothing is out of spec i have yet to check, the o2 sensor just below the manifold, and the maf sensor( already cleaned), throttle position sensor i havent checked and don't think i need to check, the knock sensor... and no trouble codes are present... anyone got any ideas? apart from a bad maf i don't see how this could be, its like the engine is starved of air when starting... and apart from the regular plume of smoke when i do start it, there's nothing out of the ordinary... any and all ideas apreciated