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Found 11 results

  1. Hello everyone, I'm kind of new to these forums and it's a pity have to start with call to help. Lately I've got to replace left inner CV joint and all of sudden ordered replacement didn't fit (original got 23 teeth and replacement one got 25). My car is 1985 pre-restyle GC (produced around April 1985) and that means it's completely off any catalogs. Up to now I was fine using catalog for AEGA1 (mine is european) but now this looks like not an option. What I need is ball-type 23-teeth left inner CV joint with shaft diameter of 24mm. Does anyone aware what's s/n for it or what replacements can fit? Some search shows GKN/Loebro 302724 as possible replacement but somewhere it's said it for GD and somewhere else that it suits both GC and GD.
  2. I have a 1985 Mazda 626 Manual that I will give away free if someone wants to pay the shipping. Contact me and we can work something out.
  3. 626Gustavo

    Engine head for Mazda 626 GD 1.8

    Hi people. I'm new at the forum so I don't know if I'm writing this at the right place. I have a Mazda 626 GD 1.8 12valv from 1991 that I bought one year ago. Now i am needing to buy an engine head to repair it because the original is ruined. Im from Portugal. Wath sugestions do you have?
  4. I was replacing my passenger-side trailing link/arm the other day, and I noticed a bit of frayed wire bolted to the chassis: I'm curious if anyone can find this on their 626 and tell me where it goes. I have the 1997 Wiring Diagram book, but I've not yet been able to decipher where that wire would be :-( Thanks for your time.
  5. *This may apply to other generations of 626, if the power antenna has an internal toothed plastic reel. For those in climates that have seen winter assign a frozen death sentence to your power antenna, this might be worth a shot -- if you still want a power antenna, but don't want to hunt or throw down top-dollar for a oft-too-expensive replacement: After removing the single 10mm nut in the trunk, and unscrewing the exterior moulding, I opened the unit and found the plastic track/reel responsible for the up-down movement was in pieces :-( There were two little 1cm fragments and fractured track that wasn't gonna do any lifting... Undeterred, I took to fixing: 1.) I used a paper towel and 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean the old grease off the ends that I was going to "weld" together with a candle flame. 2.) I oriented the two large fragments (I discarded the 1cm pieces) correctly, then carefully danced them over a candle flame until they caught fire and the plastic became fluid enough to press the ends together. (I didn't aim for burning -- that's just what happened, and that's what worked.) Don't breathe the fumes! And be prepared to blow out the fusion and hold it carefully while it air cools/hardens. 3.) Using a/your trusty rotary tool, and a suitable bit (I used a metal cutting disc, because it's what I had on hand), carefully erode/cut away the excess glob of plastic from the fusion; you're shaping/sculpting a restored segment, with teeth appropriately sized and spaced. Take your time. (Just took about 2 minutes in my case.) 4.) Now that you've patted yourself on the back for being so handy, re-assemble the antenna sheathing in the reverse of how you took it apart. Re-assemble the motor case. You'll now have two pieces: the motor and the antenna with a long tail of plastic track. 5.) Go back to your car (key off) and plug in the antenna motor connector. Turn on your car radio so that the antenna motor activates and spends some seconds "raising" a phantom antenna. 6.) After the motor has decided the antenna is "raised" (radio still on), carefully feed the end of the track down into the motor case, so that the teeth will engage the gear that you saw when you opened it up earlier. It just needs to get close. 7.) Turn off the radio. (Helps to have a remote control or a partner, so you can be at the trunk.) You might need to provide a little pressure, holding the track against the gear, but hopefully the motor will take the bait and quickly begin sucking in the plastic track... Be ready to twist and turn the antenna and track so it goes in correctly and doesn't bind! 8.) Put some RTV silicone sealant around where the antenna sheath meets the motor case. Put everything back together. Make sure the antenna mast is properly lubricated and straight-shootin'. 9.) Practice patience... I hope you'll get it in promptly, and it'll work like a charm! I don't know if this will work if you try to discard more than the ~2cm of track that I did; with larger pieces, I might have tried to weld them in too... In any case, I put it all together, sprayed aerosol silicone on the antenna mast (I worked silicone into the parts throughout the process, actually), and that thing's functioning good-as-new. Now, I'll mark on my calendar that I should unplug the power antenna motor in October or November (or whenever things start freezing), so I don't have to worry about again subjecting the track to an icy death (I know I left out details about locations and disconnecting/disassembling things; I'm presuming you are able to identify and access these things. If you have questions, you're absolutely welcome to ask.)
  6. Hi guys, my first post, a little bit nervous I must admit. I bought a gray 2000 ES V6 (equipped with the factory double DIN stereo unit) yesterday and as soon as I drove it off the lot I noticed the cassette player doesn't work. It seems to be function properly but if you try and insert any tape it goes about half way in, pauses, and is promptly ejected. This sort of ruined my plans of using a cassette adapter to plug in 3.5mm auxillary. I bought a radio adapter this morning (I swore it would be the last time) and was so immediately disappointed I returned it before leaving the parking lot. So my first question is, has anyone experienced anything similar with cassette player and know what might be wrong/how to fix it? Secondly, I've heard of a lot of people rewiring their head units to add an auxiliary port right on the front. Would it be possible to redirect the signal wires from the back of the cassette unit to an aux port? That way when selecting "Tape" on the unit it would just switch the auxillary signal. I'm pretty capable at soldering and wiring but I don't know much about this car or the electronics it. If it is doable, does anyone have the diagram to find the right signal wires? Any help would be much appreciated. -John
  7. dandruff461

    Blown Head Gasket?

    Hello, i looked everywhere for something simmilar to my problem but i couldnt find a post, so im sorry if this is a repost. Im working on my fathers 2001 626 4cyl auto. im suspecting a blown head gasket but id like some other mechanics to validate my suspicions. The engine has 130k on it. its going through a full coolant overflow tank in a little over a week. there is some external leaks, but for the life of me i cant find exactly where the leak is comming from. where the tranny meets the block it is wet all over, top side and underneath, but nothing that appears fresh or obviously leaking, and after removing the air filter assembly i couldnt really see anything leaking out where the head gasket is. so at first i was suspecting maybe the freeze plug rusted through? however, theres really only a few drops of coolant on the ground and obviously not anywhere close to the ammount being lost. But then i took out the spark plugs and its coated in white, indicating overheating, lean, or burning coolant. its not overheating, and checking the fuel trims with OBDII it doesnt appear to be giving a lean condition. the exaust also has this.. chemical smell. cant describe it, doesnt smell like regular exaust. so my best educated guess is that the head gasket needs to be replaced. at 130k that sounds about right. what do you guys think? Thank you for the time and sorry again if this is a repost, i know how annoying that can be
  8. I'm new to this forum and been a 626 owner for about a year and been trying to find a service manual download for a mazda 626 2000 can anyone help with this? This would be very appreciated.
  9. mikerichx3

    A Couple Of Repairs

    Hello Mazda 626'ers, I just joined the forum recently, I have always looked on here for research for my vehicle. I have a couple questions in a nutshell about repairs and future ideas for my vehicle. I drive a 2002 626 and #1? I hear a weird sound coming from the driver side hissing at a slow speed and while driving near a wall or fence I hear it more. #2? When it rains or its very moist outside my brakes are grinding and sounding awful. #3? When I brake I feel vibration from the pedal people said my rotors are good looking idk how to fix that? #4? When I am driving 10 to 20mph the car makes a weird whirl noise if I let go of the pedal what is that? #5? When I purchased the Mazda it has keyless entry fob and I didn't receive the keyless entry and the dealer is charging a high rate of 170 for it to be programmed and the key? How can I do it myself I know I need a transmitter key and obviously the keyless entry buttons. #6? When I reverse my car sounds louder, sounds like a exhaust problem such as a flex cable, do I really need this repair? Those are all my questions hopefully I can get those answered please and thank you Mazda 626'ers
  10. Hello all! My car is a 1997 Mazda 626 6v automatic So I was driving a normal routine for me when my car suddenly fell out of gear! There was no obvious sound or motion so it's very confusing what happened. i was making a right turn if that counts for much. I can shift between gears but the car just stays put. From what i have read around it could be the shifter cable but after looking at it with my father it seems to works just fine. I do see some filing around the outside of the cable. The fluids are fine. Any ideas would be appreciated, i am going in their tmw to see if i can pull out the shifter and notice anything bad.
  11. MarineE6

    Ubelieveable Repair!

    You guys will never believe what I have to go through just to check my alternator, or, maybe you will. I had to finally address the Valve Cover repair I've been putting off to save money, or should I say, lack there of? Anyway, here's the run down: Here's a picture of everything now, as you can see the intake is off and I have a rag covering the intake oriface. Here is the other side and as you can see, the alternator is deep underneath the front valve cover, covered in oil. Those of you who are novice repairmen, once your valve covers are leaking, get them changed and do it quick fast and as soon as you have the funds. Not to mention to take your time though while doing the job. You drop anything in that engine compartment, you are history, or, at least your engine is! As you can see here, I had to pull the fans from in front. You probably saw that from the previous photo. After attempting to loosen the top alternator bolt, because it was way too tight for the amount of space I had, I moved to the bottom bolt and found it was too long with the position it was in. It wouldn't come out at all. I moved to the top and eventually figured I would have to pull the bracket. Next I found I was going to have to drill. Yes, I said drill. Where you say? Let me get to that. Here, this photo I had to pull the passenger side wheel well shield. With more examination, I had to pull the windshield washer jug from inside the fender, and suspended it using two hangers. One underneath the bottom screw hole where it extends out, and the other underneath the ball looking end that was in the fender facing the back of the passenger headlight. Both hangers are hooked on the shock, on the second rung from the top. Now, look carefully in the middle of the photo, and you can notice an indentation. If you have been under here before, you can see the imprints and screw holes of the windshield washer tank. In that indentation you can se a finger-made line of grease going vertically. In that general area, the alternator bolt is on the other side. I have to cut a hole in that general vicinity. Hopefull I wont have any problems. Notice the wood in the background. I will get to that in a sec. Here is a better shot of what I am dealing with. You can see the bolt in the top left hand corner. That extended rung is in the way. A better shot, not so close, LOL. Your standard electric drill, borrowed from your future father in law, because you only have one working car that isn't registered yet, and there is no money to do so. Sorry guys, that was supposed to say 1 1/4 inch circular saw bit. Thats the smallest size he had, I think it was just right. As a safety measure for both me and my engine, I am going to place this 1/4 inch plywood inbetween the egine and the fender panel to eliminate the trouble of flying metal shards. I don't want to take the chance of something I don't want caught in the engine. This one my fiancee scrounged up and I had to break it because it was too long. At the max, this one came out to be 12x20 inches. I am going to use these two garden blocks to prop it up so as to ensure propper hieght to my drill area. Thanks guys for checking it out. Just want to pass on the pain and passion of owning a mazda 626, LOL. Let me know if you guys have any questions. I will keep you posted. I hope to be done by Sunday. I'm not gonna hold my breath though! LOL! Later guys! (Note to moderator) This last picture says it was a failed upload but apparantly it showed up anyway. Any advice to remove.