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Found 2 results

  1. 1996 626 Es For Sale

    Hey there - not sure if this is against the norm or not, but I have a 1996 626 ES for sale. 165,000km / manual / 4 cylinder / great condition The car is in great condition, drives well, however the brake line recently blew along the driver side and I haven't gotten it fixed yet. I can certainly post a few pictures, but let me know if there's any initial interest and we'll go from there. I'm in a situation where I need to get rid of it pretty quickly, so I'm willing work out a very fair price. Let me know if there's any questions. Thanks, - Nathan
  2. Note: I wrote this long post but as I am wont to do, it's a bit tl;dr. I added some bullet points at the end for those who haven't got the patience to deal with the whole thing. Hey guys and gals, So here's the situation: I have a close friend for whom I am just finishing the process of teaching to drive a car. He's from Nepal and, as is the situation there as well as many other countries, a more common method of transportation is via motorcycle/scooter/bike. So he's been driving a motorcyle around Kathmandu since he was about nine or ten years old. He is about my age. Until now, he has never had reason or opportunity to drive a car. However for various reasons he has now decided he very much wants to get a car. So anyways, I'm pretty much getting to the point where there's not a whole lot more I can do for him in terms of driving lessons and from here on out he'll pretty much just be improving his driving skills by driving himself around. So now it's come time to get him a car of his own. Much to my delight, he is extremely adamant about the fact that, as he learned to drive on a 626 and he feels very comfortable in my 626, he feels that he has developed a connection to the 626 and, as such, insists that a 626 is the only car he is interested in purchasing. Yay! So I've been looking around for 626s. Now, a few things. Here in Victoria, Australia they are extremely anal about what is called a Roadworthy certificate. Mostly that's to do with a state run organisation called TAC but that's a matter for another thread. Anyway, cars here cost a bit more in general because of the strict roadworthy certificate which must be obtained in order to register the car, which also costs an arse load, to finance said TAC. As a result of roadworthy, it also becomes more of a gamble to purchase a kinda screwed up car with the plans to patch it up, as the roadworthy inspectors can be right bastards and you could end up having to pay crazy amounts of money to replace entire parts of the subframe, for example, because of a tiny rust spot, even though the car is actually running perfectly. So, to keep it simple, I'm looking for a car which is pretty much totally sound. This costs more money. So here's what's kind of on my mind. I don't mind getting him a GE model 626 but I don't really want anything older than a GE due to parts availability and cost in terms of repairs and/or aftermarket. We simply just haven't got the population that you guys have got and, as such, don't have junk yards everywhere full of 626s. We also don't have Rockauto and the like. No Harbor Freight, etc. We do have large(ish) automotive shops (SCA, Autopro, Auto Barn) but not like you guys have so getting the older cars tends to not be quite the same. If he were an enthusiast, it would perhaps be a different story. So anyway, that leaves me with GE and GF models. Now, should I be basically staying away from GE models with an ATX because of the horrible CD4E track record? If so, that complicates things a bit. Firstly, my car is still (most unfortunately) running an ATX (although not the CD4E, mine is actually a great ATX, as far as they go). Like Devon, I will be swapping mine out for an MTX at some point, however I am still slowly collecting parts and, in general, waiting for Devon to be the guinea pig who's mistakes I can document and not repeat (sorry Devon , and thanks! ). So if I want a GE MTX than that means I have to teach him to drive a stick as soon as he gets his car. Meaning it is no longer a situation of "Yay! I can drive and now I have my own car!" but becomes a situation of "Yay! I can drive an auto but it doesn't matter because my new car has an MTX so I guess I need to keep coming back to Josh for more lessons before I can drive my own car!". The other option is to just go with a GF model. But now we run into the cost issue again. My mate has about AU$5k (about 1:1 to US$ atm) to spend. Just to rego the car costs $640/year (that's that TAC again) and then a few hundred more for whatever needs to be fixed/replaced for roadworthy (because there's ALWAYS something) plus the cost of the roadworthy incspection itself, and hopefully it passes the first time so we don't need to pay twice or thrice. So that basically leaves him about $4k to actually spend on a car. I don't want a car with more than 200,000km (120,000 mi.) and I know that miles aren't everything and that country miles are different to city miles and that it depends on how the car is maintained but, I'm just trying to keep it simple here. So a GF model 626 with ATX, under 200,000 km for $4k or under starts to be kinda difficult to source, and if it's that cheap you're starting to wonder why. The other thing to consider is whether to go V6 (it's the DE model here, not the ZE) or I4. On the one hand, I know the I4 really well so that's a bonus for his car issues in future as I'll obviously be the one doing any repairs but on the other hand, can I really pass up getting him a V6?? LOL So, a classic tl;dr from Roritor! So in a nutshell: - GE or GF are the options - He drives an auto, not a manual so a manual requires him to learn before he can drive his new car - Due to Roadworthy inspection for certificate, am not looking to buy a "fixer-upper" - GE auto trannies are junk, so stay away from them? - GF models cost considerably more (all cars here will in general cost more than their US counterparts) - He's got about $4,000 to spend on the actual car ($5,000 total but that has to include rego, etc. and about $1,000 will be needed for that) And lastly - V6 or I4? I am familiar with the I4 for repairs but, obviously, there are massive benefit to the V6 Keep in mind he is new to cars (but not bikes) and is not an anthusiast. This will be a daily driver and fuel consumption and longevity are the main concerns here. Petrol is about $1.50/L at the moment ($5.55/gallon). So does anyone have any thoughts?