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Found 4 results

  1. So, after sucessfully installing a HEI module with the external coil, I decided I would try to get the KF distributor to work on a KL, simply to get it to look more like the OEM setup instead of having the coil tower sticking out of the distributor cap, and I am also planning on getting a KF ignitor installed later for a cleaner OEM look. I can only confirm this to be working for the 93-94 models of the KL powered cars, but I am pretty sure this will work with the 95-97 aswell! Keep in mind you will have to already have the HEI with external coil installed in order to do this mod! So, what you'll need for this tutorial is: KF distributor with external coil (This has a 4 wire plug instead of a 3+6 like the KL, keep in mind some KF's have internal coil so be sure it's the right one before getting one!) Preferable a new distributor cap and rotor, this is not needed if you get a new distributor or the old one is still good, but if it's used I highly recommend to get a new one. A new 4 wire plug (I got mine from http://www.cycleterminal.com, it's called "Female DL 090-4B" and is listed under "Connectors->DL 090 Series->4 pin DL 090 Female Connector", http://www.cycleterminal.com/dl-090-series.html) Standard tools, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm wrenches (or pipe), Phillips PH2 (or similar) screwdriver, and a small flathead screwdriver. So, we'll start with the hard part, the repinning of the 6 wire plug. Now the repinning is fairly easy, in order to go it you'll have to take the old pins out, or cut the wires and add the new terminals from cycleterminal on (this is selv explainatory so I am not going to show you how to mount them) The KL plug looks like this: And the KF like this: What you have to do is move Pin 1 from the 6 wire plug to Pin 1 on the 4 wire plug, Pin 2-Pin 2, Pin 3-Pin 3, Pin 4-Pin 4 super easy huh? KL Pin 1 -> KF Pin 1 KL Pin 2 -> KF Pin 2 KL Pin 3 -> KF Pin 3 KL Pin 4 -> KF Pin 4 KL Pin 5 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) KL Pin 6 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) Once that is done, the new plug should look like this: Now all you need to do now, is install the new distributor, plug in the 4 wire plug, and connect the plug wires (keep in mind the KF has a different numbering on the cap than the KL) Once that is done you are ready to test, asuming you have connected the coil wire. I've cleaned the wires up since this picture, this was just for testing. I am using a old NGK wire to my SS Blaster Coil, it works for now, but I'll swap it out for a Magnecore later. This was it guys, hope you enjoyed my first guide, if I missed or should include something let me know!
  2. I have a 1998 4cyl that has really poor acceleration particularly at low RPM's. The problem has progressively gotten worse. It is to the point that the car does not have enough power to start moving from a start if it is even slightly uphill. It feels like the engine just bogs down when you try to get the car start moving. It seems to operate a lot better once you get to 2500-2700 RPM and accelerates fine from a passing gear. The car sometimes is hard to start, but once it starts seems to idle fine, however, it has recently started to idle erratically. If you press firmly on the throttle in park, the engine seems to bog down and sometime dies. The check engine light is not lit. This is what I have tried: checked for codes, only found one for second oxygen sensor which i found to be unplugged Replaced spark plugs Checked coilpack, tests within specs removed catalytic converter and inspected, it is clean not clogged air filter is clean inspected the timing belt and marks lined up oil is good, no antifreeze inspected MAF sensor for debris or dirty, it is clean. Things i havent checked: Fuel pressure any ideas? is this a common problem? any help is greatly appreciated
  3. MarineE6

    Finally Done, Not!

    Hey guys, Finally came down to fixing the valve cover gaskets after starting the alternator repairs. That whole drilling thing is not something I want to relive, LOL, so be sure to see my post on how to pull that alternator out. Secondly, I have a ton of pictures for the How To thread on the LX 2.5 v6's. It took me a week to get it done, partly bacause of me getting old and some of my limbs feel like they are falling off with all of the wierd postions I need to get into. My stamina is not what it used to be. But I have one more thing though that is a bit frustrating after spending all that time repairing a number of things: I have some smoke coming from the area in front of the front valve cover in between the braket that holds the wiring for the AC pump and alternator. That bracket carries the wiring across the front for obvious reasons, but after the car warms up, it starts smoking. No oil leaks, no smoke from other areas. It seems to run pretty clean but this little lady is smoking more crap faster than I can catch up with it. I do remember a poster mentioning that 626's are known for buring oil. In this past repair I changed the VCG's, Intake Mani gaskets, Plugs, Plug wires along with the alternator and a couple of fuses. I am hoping it is just oil burn off from before the VCG's were replaced. Who here has cleaned their v6 with the engine degreaser from Auto Zone? I am afraid that it will eat away at the wiring or short something out. Especially with the new plug wires going down the middle of every thing. (Is that a dumb question?) Any comments on that? It was a grimey mess before I took some time to wipe some of it down. I will have pictures tommorow on my new post. Thanks in advance guys. Have a Great Weekend!
  4. mazda1962697

    626 Help!

    I bought a 626 with a 2.0 I4, with an alleged timing belt issue. It started up that day, and pulled into my garage where it sits now. It had bad gas, but I fixed that already. Oil is dark, heres what ive done so far... I installed a new water pump, the old one was shot. New plugs, wires cap and rotor, specifically for the manual trans. It had a head gasket leak, and I used stop leak to try and save me alooot of time!!! tested the injectors, fuses, fuel pump and IAT sensor. All good. IT IS NOT RUNNING at the moment. I beleive the timing is off. When I got the car, the plugs were not plugged in the cap as shown in the book, so i plugged in as shown in the service manual, nada. I also set the no. 1 piston to TDC, and lined up the timing marks back up on the distributor, to the cam gears, and then put the plugs back as shown in the manual. Nada. I AM STUMPED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The leak is fixed, but I can't find a better way to time the ignition system. I do not have a timing light. I believe that its the last thing before its purring like a kitten. When it started, you had to put the gas pedal 3/4 way to the floor, then let off, and be PRECISE with it, or it wouldnt start. When it was running, you couldnt let it idle or it would stall and NOT be too happy bout starting back up.. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!
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