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Car

Found 2 results

  1. complete ring job and burn in, from start to finish, all in pictures... start with an engine: here's mine... remove the air duct then remove the air cleaner box next take the plastic that resides around the left wheel arch (as you look at the engine with the hood up) take the down pipe for the exhaust off. you will require a 14mm deep socket or a combination spanner, to replace the pipe at the end of the job... next remove the 6 19mm bolts, the 2 14mm bolts and the 2 12mm bolts that hold the bell housing on to the engine. i removed the starter motor as well but that was probably not needed. now bring out a large screwdriver, and a pry bar, there is a slot so you can pry the bell housing away from the engine block. this will tak about half an hour of grunting and swearing at it... looking at it from underneath you should begin to see this: the objective is to get to the two bolts shown here: you may need to pry the bell housing and block apart to get the ratchet in and out of the tight spot. if memory serves me right they are 10 mm. if the two cut outs are not there in your flywheel then rotate the engine 180 degrees. now remove the lower and upper oil pans, remember to drain them, however it is possible to remove the lower oil pan and leave the oil in it... admire your big end... remove the air intake, and the valve cover. see djdevon3's videos if you need any guidance on how to do this
  2. I have several things going on with this 99 2.5L engine. I just bought the car and put a few thousand miles on it. Prior to it overheating: It did NOT burn oil It would choke up very briefly once and awhile when idling and would act like it was going to stall at low mph--The mass airflow sensor was clean, yet the problem went away when it was unplugged. Upon overheating: It sounded like it could have ran for two attempts at starting it. No audible compression occured on the third attempt. (The car was just under operating temperature by this time.) The timing belt seems about as taught as a serpetine belt and spins. (I haven't taken the cover off, just opened it enough to look.) Oil is on a spark plug boot (Valve gasket leak?) Oil is in the air intake ( PVC or piston rings??) Vapor puffs out of the water pipe but no water. When covering it with my hand, I can feel no pressure. (I filled it more than its capacity shortly after it overheated a month ago) When it overheated, my wife was going down the highway and said the car just lost power. She didn't know it'd overheated til I asked her. With little information, I can only eleminate the fan as causing the overheating. The compression loss seems likely to be either between the timing belt or piston rings, but I'm no expert, just going off what I've read. Right now, the only major noise is a fairly high pitch when the ignition is turned. This may just be the starter, especially since it's the only major sound. Surely, the starter would also make noise. So, is there a way to eliminate either the piston rings or timing belt as causing the compression loss without buying either one? Is there a way to determine if the oil pump is working? Or, due to the odds of this working, should I just buy a $200 salvage motor with a 30 day warrenty? Do any of you have a better idea of what else could be happening or how to salvage the situation?
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