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Found 13 results

  1. I recently had oan intermitant heater problem then my 02 mazda 626 began t run hot. I flushed radiator which looked like brown mud, flushed heater core and refilled with new antifreeze. The car ran great for two days. then the engine started overheating into hotzone right at the line. I had already replaced the thermostat.I figured it was the coolant temp sensor and last night I was going to replace it. I first drained some of the anti freeze out of the radiator and couldn't believe I have oil mixed with the anti freeze. any suggestion as what caused this would be appreciated. Is it possible I blew a head gasket. I hSD mechanic FRIEND TELL ME THAT I HAD A BAD RADIATOR. How ever the oil cooler line doesn't enter into the radiator. Any thoughts on what caused this or what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated.
  2. Hi my Mazda family, My 626 has started to burn oil but I don’t know if it is the piston rings or something else the video shows idle and then I accerlate. if there is anyone in the UK who can fix this cheap please reply back or if any tips or suggestions, anything will help I just don’t want to scrap this car. thanks for reading 6CF7F48D-A7B6-4C32-83B7-A43602045455.mov
  3. Hello all! I'm new to this forum but hoping someone has encountered the same issue I am having. While replacing leaking valve cover gaskets on my 2000 626 2.5l with 117,000 miles. I was horrified when I took off the first cover and found burnt/sludge oil approx. 1/8" thick in and on all surfaces of the valve assembly. I now have some major concerns about the engine getting lubricated properly. About a month ago the coolant reservoir cracked and the engine slightly overheated for a very short time. I am fairly certain this is what caused the sludging but never in all of my years have I seen it so bad. Has anyone else encountered this and any recommendations on how to clean/remove it? I thank you in advance for any and all suggestions!
  4. So I noticed the recommended oil was 10W-30, but the local mechanic gave us the SAE 40, which I noticed only after he left. Would that make much of a difference? Should I change it out to SAE 30, still?
  5. This past October I bought my 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6 from my friend's cousin who had moved away. My friend had previously been driving it for about a month, but it was constantly overheating. Eventually he bought his new car and it stayed in his grandparents driveway 7 months until I was about to buy it. Their mechanic who'd worked on the car for years said it needed a new radiator, which he put in. Once I took it to emissions, I realized the check engine light was on and turns out it needed new O2 sensors. I knew it had been low on oil from sitting so many months plus nothing on the dipstick. So my father gave me a quart of oil (don't remember what kind). Right after I put it in, the engine started a rumbling/knocking noise. Shaking almost. It would settle down a little when I took off the breaks, but increased as I accelerated. I was able to drive it home which was 10 minutes away and to my friend's place 15 mins away with noise. Some say it needs a new engine, but I think it may be that oil we put in. Anything sound familiar?
  6. 1996 mazda 626 2.5L - So as I was driving down the road this afternoon and came to a stop, I noticed a mild rough idle/misfire in my car. I was kinda infuriated with my car with one problem after another. I just fixed my last misfiring problem (#4 bad fuel injector) a month ago and now I have a misfire again? I kept my fuel injector box/receipt for a month until I just threw it out LAST night in the dumpster(gone) because I thought it should be doing fine after all this time and doubted that a new injector would go bad anyways. What a coincidence that a rough idle/misfire happens the next day. So I checked the resistances on the fuel injectors and thank god they are okay within specs of each other. (So its not a bad fuel injector) Next thing I pulled out spark plug boots to check the plugs and surprised to see 1 inch deep of oil in spark plug well #2 (front left cylinder), looks practically flooded. All the other ones are clean dry. Pulled that spark plug out and fortunately doesn't seem the oil has reach the spark plug tip yet. Will this oil in the spark plug well cause a rough idle or misfire in the engine? And it seems I'll be replacing my front valve cover gasket as it may be what's causing the oil leaking in the well. Looked at all my nearest auto parts stores for the full set and they quoted $83+. So I decided to look on eBay and found $14.41 ones for the the full set http://www.ebay.com/...#ht_3143wt_1136 Thanks for your input
  7. Hey again, I recently went to change my oil, and unscrewed the plug only to watch it drain at full blast for about 5 seconds before slowing to a drip. Usually it is more gradual than that, which tells me I was low on oil, and I know I fill it correctly and measure each time. After looking around a bit, the outside of the pan is clean and dry, and there are no oil spots on the ground, but I found that the bottom of the engine had moist gunk all over it, which I assume is oil that leaked out. I also began smelling that "90's japanese sports car" smell a few months ago, so tie these together, and we get......a slow-ish oil leak that's burning off the block before it makes it to the driveway, right? I didn't get back under there to try and pinpoint the leak from the bottom, and I'm PRAYING it's not the head gasket. However, I took a look around the valve cover (gasket replaced about 50k miles ago) and noticed one of the bolts on the driver's side didn't have one of those metal/rubber washer things in it, and some wet oil/gunk in the area around it. I found a few washers in my extra parts baggie, but there were two lengths (see below) and I wasn't sure which one to use. I picked the smaller one; assuming both would have fit, does it matter which one I use? Should I try and put the longer one in? Also, could that missing washer thing cause a large enough leak like I've explained? Should I try and get a snap from underneath for us to examine? I did look around a little while I was under the car, but nothing significant stood out to my non-mechanic eyes other than the oil (and my wet transmission case, but that's another story altogether LMAO). The oil filter is on snug, and again no leak from the pan. Thanks guys!
  8. I pulled out all of my plug wires the other day, just for shits and gigs. Well good thing i did, because oil came dripping off of one! What is the problem here.
  9. I bought this car yesterday and I want to go ahead and get an oil change in it. The dealer that sold it couldn't tell me the answer, but I need to know if it needs synthetic oil or conventional oil. I don't want to spend extra money on synthetic if I don't have to.
  10. Hello all, I have been looking through this website for information about what oil filter to use on my '94 mazda 626 GE (2.5L V6), I wanted to change it today as I have found a lot of oil around the top of the filter and I have been putting in 1L of oil per week to compensate for the leak. (I know this is not good, but I haven't been driving far) My question is; do I need a specific type of oil filter or do most filters fit my car? And also do I need a special tool to take the filter out? It looks as though I wont be able to get my filter wrench in there because of the tight working space. Thanks, Jack.
  11. Hello....My 626 is now approaching 133,000 miles, and I'm getting due for an oil change? Does anyone know if using high milage oil would be beneficial? I do not have any leaks that I'm aware of, and my valve cover gaskets were recently replaced due to a leak in the past, but now I have no leaks. I go approx 4500 between oil changes, but check my oil approx every 3 weeks after car has been sitting overnight, and the dip stick level always shows full with no signs of oil consumption. I've heard mixed opinions on weather or not it is worth using the high milage oil. My car seems to be running fine, and I average approx 26-27 miles per gallon with 70% highway and 30% city driving. Thanks, Mike
  12. Hi there, I bought a 96 2.5 with 138,000 km's on it about a month ago, and yesterday I changed the oil for the first time. It was definitely due an oil change as the old oil was dirty and black. I used Castrol GTX 5w-30 and a fram filter. The first problem was the manual called for 3.7 litres of oil, but when that amount was put in the dipstick was registering just over the L mark. So I probably put another 200ml in and it went up to between the F and L. I let the car sit on level ground for about 15 minutes before starting. When I started it sounded like a diesel. It has a lower idle and a definite tapping noise which it did not have before. but when I drive it above 2000rpm it goes back to normal, no tapping can be heard and it sounds like it did before I changed the oil. I went for a drive in it and it didn't feel any different, it just sounded bad idling and under 2000 rpm. There are no lights on the dash telling me somethings wrong and the engine temperatures is where it normally is. I checked the oil again and topped it up to F, so now there's about 4.5 litres in it. Its not leaking or burning blue or anything like that. Today I took it to a friend who is a heavy duty mechanic and he said that the oil in it before could've been heavier and was used to mask the noise and that there could be a valve problem. My dad was also talking to a guy who blamed the Fram filter and said that sometimes they have a problem distributing the oil to the whole engine or something. I really have no clue what could've caused this, would the oil really make that much of a difference? or is it the cheapo filter? help would be greatly appreciated! thanks, callum
  13. All, I have a 2002 Mazda 626, 2.5L V6. It apparently has multiple oil leaks, with the valve cover gasket being one leak (around $500 repair), and potentially others have have not been discovered yet. The garage advised that, since the car has close to 100k miles on it (and I live in a rough- wintered area which is hard on cars, so it's a "tough" 100k), just monitor the fluid levels often and put oil in it as needed. Does anyone else have any experience with this problem? Is it common at all in 626s? --Jonathan
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