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Car

Found 9 results

  1. I own a 97 Mazda 626 2.0L and I don't know why it won't stop misfiring in cylinder 4. It only misfires after its been driven for some time. If it sits for a while it's starts up normal, but eventually starts misfiring. I have checked the plugs and wires with a multimeter and changed the distributor cap and rotor. I had a feeling it could be the fuel pressure regulator, but that isn't leaking any gas out of it. What could the problem be? The next thing I'm going to do is check the compression and check the injectors. What should I check for in the injectors? Any info right now would be great cause I have no clue what it could be. Thanks, Robert
  2. I own a 97 Mazda 626 2.0L and I don't know why it won't stop misfiring in cylinder 4. It only misfires after its been driven for some time. If it sits for a while it's starts up normal, but eventually starts misfiring. I have checked the plugs and wires with a multimeter and changed the distributor cap and rotor. I had a feeling it could be the fuel pressure regulator, but that isn't leaking any gas out of it. What could the problem be? The next thing I'm going to do is check the compression and check the injectors. What should I check for in the injectors? Any info right now would be great cause I have no clue what it could be. Thanks, Robert
  3. I have a 1997 Mazda 626 4CL 2.0L manual with over 200,000 miles. I was driving the other day and when I tried to accelerate in first gear from a stop it loss power and started sputtering. I pushed on the accelerator and the engine was making a clinking / rattling noise. Once I got the RPMs past 3000, it cleared up and drove normal. This happened at every stop, it felt like it was trying to die but it didn't. I attempted to drive the few blocks home in 2nd gear which was working just fine but then it started doing the same thing. It sounded like it was mis firing and when I got home it smelled like a mix of burnt oil, exhaust and something nasty like old trash or something. My son came home with this car out of the blue one day, some kid sold to him the day before he left for the Navy so we don't know what had been done to it prior. When we first got it, it drove fine but it took forever to start when was cold (as in not being driven in awhile.) When I went to check spark plus I noticed the wires were out of order. I replaced the spark plugs with new ones in the correct firing order. I noticed the spark plug from the 4 th cyl was oil fouled. The rest looked like normalish wear. I replaced the spark plugs wires with new ones, again in the correct order. Putting the spark plugs in correctly fixed the cold start issue but it still idled rough. The car starts right up now. The muffler is crack under the engine and it's really loud, it makes troubleshooting hard cause I can't hear. There was no oil or water in the coolant, the oil looked clean, the transmission and brake fluids were low. I put fuel cleaner in the gas tank and changed the air filter. I'm about to change the fuel filter. I inspected and cleaned the MAF. Now I don't know what to do next. Any suggestions?
  4. Hey, I'm back with more problems. So a few days ago I was driving around when all of a sudden my car started to misfire really bad at a red light. No rhyme or reason to it. I thought what then hell, slipped it into neutral, revved it a few times, and it went away. I thought nothing of it because my o2 sensor and coil pack needed replaced. I got home turned off the car. From there later that day I went to start it and same problem, same solution but this time it took a few more revs to go. This went on for a few days with my coil pack and o2 sensors on there way in. So I woke up this morning and went to start my car to drive to work and nothing. The car's auto starter just kept going and nothing. I tried it in the heat of my garage around 66 F. Same resalt. My coil pack and o2 sensors came in. I installed them and same thing happened. I then went to advacned and picked up 6 new plugs and installed them. Again the auto starter just kept going. So I have come to the concultion that it is a fuel problem. So here's what I think (the self taught, middle of the garage parts everywhere DIY guy) I think that since I have never replaced or even looked at my fuel filter and the car is at around 126,000 miles. I think that there is a clog somewhere in the lines. I don't know where. One of my friends suggested the fuel rail. But at this point I am clue less. I am pretty good at electronics but the fuel part not so much. I tried a few things before I called it a night to rule out a few things. Fuel Pump is good. My friend and I heard it priming when the car was turned on. Injectors are good. I just replaced them around 4 months ago. Also IT MIGHT NOT BE FUEL. This is just something that my friend and I believe is the problem. If you think it is something different them let me know and I will diagnose it as soon as I can. If you need pictures or more info, just ask. Thanks in advance.
  5. Hello guys, First I want to say thank you for all the information I get out of this forum and can't imagine how many times I was able to get help by just cross referencing older posts and DJDevon3 videos for fixes. I have owned 2000 Mazda 626s 4 cyl (auto) for the past 12 years and have fixed most of the usual trouble codes that pop up. This time is it getting a little out of hand and would like to get some help from the forum. My car RPM at idle seems to fluctuate and would drop and then come back to normal (~750rpm), some time the idle stays higher (1500) then drops to (750) after some time and will dip to 500 now and then. Car won't cut off at this point, but strains. the check engine light came on and I got two codes P0316, P-0304, p303. I knew it is a misfire, and because it is in the same bank, I changed 1. plugs (oem mazda) 2. Wires 3. Ignition Coil Car ran fine for a day, but the same problems started again. So I check out some possible causes and replaced 4. MAF sensor (used) 5. Crank Position sensor 6. MAP sensor Again ran fine for a day or two and symptoms started reappearing. This time I got just the P0316 code. So I decided to do more research and thought it might be a fuel issue. so I replaced 7. Fuel pressure regulator 8. Valve cover gasket Again the code came back with P0316 and P0304. I don't know where to go from here. Few random things that might mean something. 1. Car runs perfectly fine when driven, no misfire indication or dropping. Misfire only happens at Idle. Freeze frame shows the misfire at 0 mph and coolant temp 60. 2. It seems like coolant level in the reservoir is dropping a bit. I topped it off, I have to wait and see to confirm that. 3. While replacing the drive belt, the little single wire that attaches to some sensor in the power steering pump broke. Upon inspection it is fully corroded inside. I have to clean and put this back. Don't see any difference in the driving without it, but I will try to fix that today and tell if there is any difference. If any one has any suggestions please let me know. Thank you in advance.
  6. Hi Guys, I just redid the head on my 1996 Mazda 626 2.0L, now that I have it all back together it runs much better than it did when I first got it (bought it used for cheap with a blown head gasket), but it still seems to have a bit of an issue. On a cold start, the engine runs fine, but after letting it run for about 5 - 10 minutes I begin getting a frequent misfire on Cylinder #2. My code reader is also giving me code P0443 for a bad Evap purge solenoid. I removed the solenoid and hooked it up to an ohmmeter and got no reading off of it, so it looks like it's bad. Could a bad Evap purge solenoid be causing the misfire? Sean
  7. Ive been having this issue lately where at idle the tach needle jumps. Its almost like its starts to drop too low then something kicks it back up. Under the hood I can actually hear this happening. There's a click then the revs increase. Thats not the pressing issue right now but might be tied in with the issue. I had heavy rain on Monday in my area and as I was getting off the highway, stopped at a light, the car started running very rough. As i pulled away it felt like it was breaking down. The CEL was flashing, it felt like it was missing, there was a bad odor that I could not identify. It started to get better about 3 or 4 minutes later. I was close to my destination at that point so I parked it. I looked under the hood and something was smoking by the radiator, but no radiator fluid smells and temp gauge was normal. It started up fine later on but did feel like there was intermittent slight misses. Ive felt worse so this just a slight hesitation. I sprayed some silicone on the coil pack and wires and some electrical connections and it seemed to be fine, and had no pending codes. I bought some throttle body cleaner, sprayed a little in the throttle body but didn't/won't have time to do a full clean until saturday. Yesterday my check engine light came on with a p0421 code. I feel like it all related and I fear that the throttle body cleaner possibly fouled the o2 sensor. The idling issue still persists and the idle is a little rough but my exhaust is also broken after the second cat. I patched it but it broke again so its loud and rough. Unless the exhaust is broken somewhere else now it shouldnt throw that code but i havent been under there yet since the patch. I replaced the spark plugs not too long ago, less than a month and i didnt notice any oil fouling on the old ones. I was planning on doing the wires soon and the air filter but have just been short on cash lately. I think I gave all info so anyone have any input?
  8. I have a 2002 mazda 626 and the check engine light is on...I took it to a mechanic and he said theres a misfire in Cylinder 3 and that i might need spark plugs and a valve cover....Also when I'm at a stoplight the hood of the car starts shaking (only when i'm braking or in Park, not driving) and when im driving and trying to accelerate theres some turbulence and i have to step on the gas really hard......Does that have to do with the valve cover thing or I heard it could be from the fuel injector? Anybody have some insight on this?
  9. Hello Mazda Forum, Glad I found and joined you! I'm writing this because I just bought a 2001 626 lx 4cyl, after washing her and driving it for a week with no problems, I decided on Transfering the title and registering, But then distaster started, I took it through inspection to officiate her and confirm she was road worthy, She FAILED!! She has a blown check enging light and a P0421 emmisions code, after searching the web, I repaired the engine light after disconnecting battery, saftey first! so that reset the code or codes I haven't checked them yet, I drove her for a full day to have the light come on! sad day! lol... Took it to AutoZone and they pulled 2 codes, P0303 and P0421, I know what they are and the 421 says to check other codes before replacing the cat! so i went with the misfire on cyl 3, and sure I found oil in the spark plug well, which I learned is the gasket, didnt buy yet, But did replace pcv valve, air filter, plugs and wires, have no exhust leaks, and the cars runs great, except for a low idle around 500 rpms, and sometimes a spuratic shifting where it goes bonkers, I switched on the Odo and that helps alot, then I turned it off and on and it went away, that was the first time that happened, but low idle all the time! Hope that explains my car! I hope i didnt make a bad investment, 118k for 2200bucks, list on kelly for 3600 or so! any feedback please! Thankyou for being here too! Dukey
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