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Found 75 results

  1. Temperture Sensor

    Hi everyone, I hope someone can help me. I have a 93 mazda 626 LX. And I have to replace the temperature sensor. I replace the 1st one that is the engine coolant temperature sensor And I know that the 2nd one is the temperature sending unit. I just don't know what the 3rd one is. It has a green harness. Does anyone know what it is/called? I went to the auto parts store and they said it was like the first one, so I bought it and put it on and it made my car shake real bad and it wanted to turn off, so I took it back. Can it be a temperature sensor switch?
  2. Hi, I have a Mazda 626 1998 Sedan Automatic, it has an issue with charging the battery. The car always starts very easy however the Alternator is not charging the battery right from the start. Have this problem for more than a year and Here is more precisely what's happening: - When I start the engine (cold engine not started for more than 3 hours) Alternator does not start charging the battery immediately but after 20 to 40 minutes... and afterwords everything works fine so the alternator charges the battery as normally as it should and does that for an unlimited time as long as the engine works or it has not been turned of for more than 2 hours.. However after turning of the engine and letting it cool down for more than 2 hours the simptom occurs again (again alternator takes a lot of time until starts charging the battery). Just to mention that within the period of about less than 2 hours after turning of the engine, the car can be started easy and the alternator charges the battery as normal as it should (right from the time of starting the engine). The other thing I've noticed is that If I drive a relatively cold engine on a freeway alternator starts charging the battery even later, maybe after 50 minutes. Have this problem for more than a year. I have asked quite a few car mechanics but I haven't found a single one who knows what the problem is and what should be done for car to be repaired. What I read about the proces of charging is: the particular Alternator(Mitsubishi A2TB0191): do not have a traditional Regulator but instead have a field control Unit. Alternator has a P-D Connector Mitsubishi A2TB0191 Alternators with P-D Regulators require special testing, the voltage control & warning lamp functions are in the vehicle PCM (Computer). * P Terminal is Stator Phase & is a direct connection to stator AC Volts. This allows the PCM to Monitor Alternator Field. * D Terminal is Driver connected to Vehicle PCM (Computer), and is used to control the output of the field control unit by varying Base current on a transistor which in turn varies field current thereby controlling Alternator output and voltage. The above means: -on the P terminal PCM monitor the Alternator Field - D Terminal is Driver connected to Vehicle PCM (Computer) from where gets a control signal. -------------------------- As a conclusion would say PCModule gets all the infos from the sensors and ECU and sends a proper controlling signal to the alternator's D-terminal. So is there some particular sensor malfunctioning (which one would that be?) or ist something else. in that regard just to poit out that the tme when Alternator starts charging the battery is prolonging meaning that the alternator's D-terminal is getting a starting signal from the PCM at a later and later time. All of the above I have written more as a thinking but obviously I don't know what is the problem I hope you know what is the problem with the car and might give me an advice what should be done? Thank you
  3. This past October I bought my 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6 from my friend's cousin who had moved away. My friend had previously been driving it for about a month, but it was constantly overheating. Eventually he bought his new car and it stayed in his grandparents driveway 7 months until I was about to buy it. Their mechanic who'd worked on the car for years said it needed a new radiator, which he put in. Once I took it to emissions, I realized the check engine light was on and turns out it needed new O2 sensors. I knew it had been low on oil from sitting so many months plus nothing on the dipstick. So my father gave me a quart of oil (don't remember what kind). Right after I put it in, the engine started a rumbling/knocking noise. Shaking almost. It would settle down a little when I took off the breaks, but increased as I accelerated. I was able to drive it home which was 10 minutes away and to my friend's place 15 mins away with noise. Some say it needs a new engine, but I think it may be that oil we put in. Anything sound familiar?
  4. Engine head for Mazda 626 GD 1.8

    Hi people. I'm new at the forum so I don't know if I'm writing this at the right place. I have a Mazda 626 GD 1.8 12valv from 1991 that I bought one year ago. Now i am needing to buy an engine head to repair it because the original is ruined. Im from Portugal. Wath sugestions do you have?
  5. Hello guys, I'm new on the forum, I've been reading for a while and I'm not sure where to post this, so I will post it here. I've checked and I couldn't find this elsewhere, if I'm in wrong topic please direct me to the right one. I'm in need of a Radiator Hose, Front Right Window Regulator and Rear Left Window Regulator. The only places I found these parts were located in the US and the shipping was always 3-4x the price of the parts. (in other words, it was above $100) Is there any european or asian site/store that sells these parts for a reasonable price and with a reasonable shipping price ? Thanks a lot! P.S. I'm located in Macedonia
  6. So, after sucessfully installing a HEI module with the external coil, I decided I would try to get the KF distributor to work on a KL, simply to get it to look more like the OEM setup instead of having the coil tower sticking out of the distributor cap, and I am also planning on getting a KF ignitor installed later for a cleaner OEM look. I can only confirm this to be working for the 93-94 models of the KL powered cars, but I am pretty sure this will work with the 95-97 aswell! Keep in mind you will have to already have the HEI with external coil installed in order to do this mod! So, what you'll need for this tutorial is: KF distributor with external coil (This has a 4 wire plug instead of a 3+6 like the KL, keep in mind some KF's have internal coil so be sure it's the right one before getting one!) Preferable a new distributor cap and rotor, this is not needed if you get a new distributor or the old one is still good, but if it's used I highly recommend to get a new one. A new 4 wire plug (I got mine from http://www.cycleterminal.com, it's called "Female DL 090-4B" and is listed under "Connectors->DL 090 Series->4 pin DL 090 Female Connector", http://www.cycleterminal.com/dl-090-series.html) Standard tools, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm wrenches (or pipe), Phillips PH2 (or similar) screwdriver, and a small flathead screwdriver. So, we'll start with the hard part, the repinning of the 6 wire plug. Now the repinning is fairly easy, in order to go it you'll have to take the old pins out, or cut the wires and add the new terminals from cycleterminal on (this is selv explainatory so I am not going to show you how to mount them) The KL plug looks like this: And the KF like this: What you have to do is move Pin 1 from the 6 wire plug to Pin 1 on the 4 wire plug, Pin 2-Pin 2, Pin 3-Pin 3, Pin 4-Pin 4 super easy huh? KL Pin 1 -> KF Pin 1 KL Pin 2 -> KF Pin 2 KL Pin 3 -> KF Pin 3 KL Pin 4 -> KF Pin 4 KL Pin 5 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) KL Pin 6 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) Once that is done, the new plug should look like this: Now all you need to do now, is install the new distributor, plug in the 4 wire plug, and connect the plug wires (keep in mind the KF has a different numbering on the cap than the KL) Once that is done you are ready to test, asuming you have connected the coil wire. I've cleaned the wires up since this picture, this was just for testing. I am using a old NGK wire to my SS Blaster Coil, it works for now, but I'll swap it out for a Magnecore later. This was it guys, hope you enjoyed my first guide, if I missed or should include something let me know!
  7. Okay, so i beg you read this. its been pretty crazy. so i originally made this post on Tomshardware, but now i found this AWESOME site!! read my OG post here ; (actually red it before replying please..) " LEASE READ!!! It's been a year and a half, really need help..Hi, here's my problem.Specs of car are2000 Mazda 626, LX V6Now, about a year & a half ago my father went to start the car, he was going to take it to the shop & get a new battery & see why the car kept swelling the battery up & making it so hot. So he takes the battery cables off (so he could get to the mechanic without the battery swelling up/exploding) which he's done countless times in the past, but this time when he did it, the headlights flashed, windshield wipers came on & the car Reved down until it was off. From then on it hasn't been able to start. Windshield wipers do not workTurn signals do not workCar will crank but not startFuel pump does not engage, when you out the key in, the car beeps & nothing on the dash lights up (except for door open indicator), and when you turn the key to the ON position, nothing else happens it just sits there beeping fast instead of going to the 6 beep sequence then stopping.. Fuel pump doesn't engage. Wipers don't work nor do turn signals. The car will crank but not turn over. Now, it was up until this point that me and him thought it was okay to disconnect the battery while the car was running as the alternator would take over.. After this happened I did some research and learned that the battery acts as a capacitor and limits voltage spikes. So, yeah, it was a dumb move. Any idea on what the hell happened!? Literally I've searched the Internet hundreds of times with different wording & no one else in the entire planet has ever had this happen!? I can't find ONE other person with this problem. It's like everyone is clueless. &I no we haven't taken it to the mechanic as it costs money to tow it there and be looked at.. Haven't tried a new battery, but we have tried jumping it with another car which acts as a new battery (as the engine cranks & the indoor lights are bright) so we definitely know it's not the battery. So rundown -tried disconnecting battery cables while car was running-car shut off-won't start now-dash doesn't work, can't see mileage or anything else (fuel gauge etc)-cranks, doesn't start- fuel pump makes no noise- beeping sequence stays same when key is inserted into the ignition Please help" ALSO, I THEN REPLIED TO MY OG THREAD WITH THIS COMMENT "I am beyond imagination shocked. So, the car started just an hour ago. this spanish guy (Joel) that has always wanted to buy my dads honda civic came buy and asked if he could buy it again, and my dad laughed and said his friend was borrowing it from him right now etc. so my dad asks if he knows anything about mazda's.. he says oh yeah man. so my dad explains the problem to him.. this guy opens the driver door and asks for the key, he puts the key in the ignition, turns it and it cranks were like yeah see. and so he gets on his knees, and without looking at the fuse diagram starts pulling fuses and me and my dad are looking at eachother like hm. so then the dashboard lights, headlights, windshield wipers and gauges come on - me and my dad look at each other amazed and say "thats never happened what did you do?" he goes "hold on man" he gets in the car and cranks it a couple times, the car starts and runs momentarily for about 3 seconds and dies. me and my dad look at eachother in amazement and ask him what he did, and he says "you got any gas?" without a word me and my dad run into the garage looking for a gas can and bring one to him, he pours it directly in the engine bay in the throttle thing, and he says watch this, he turns the key, the gauges and all light up and he cranks it.. the car starts. the car runs for about 10 seconds and sounds perfect. me and my dad are amazed. he says "you have a bad fuel pump". we do the gas trick a couple more times to see it run and make sure it wasnt just a dream. he says he can replace the fuel pump for us for cheap. the windshield wipers would not turn off and slight smoke did come from the cabin. he said we probably have a short in a ground-wire somewhere causing it to smoke and for the electronics to act funny and thats why the fuses were blowing. so, were going to tow the car to his house and hes gonna help us fix it. we are completely stunned. this guy hasnt showed up but twice in the last 7-8 years, and today, out of the blue, the same day me and my dad randomly decided to fix the battery connector cables and buy a new battery and fuses, he shows up. what are the chances? and he says he has the same engine in his mazda suv. what are the chances? we are so shocked. the car hasnt run in a year and a half, and randomly today we decide to mess with it. the SAME day he decides to show up and ask if he can buy the honda for the first time in at least 2 years. wow. If we didn't believe in God before, we sure as hell do now LOL" Now, the thing is, we dont really have any money to get this car to his house. i want to make SURE its the fuel pump before i make any moves here. i tested the fuel pump relay's - all check out okay. no buzzing noise can be heard coming from the fuel pump when cranking or when turning the key to the ON position.. so im assuming the fuel pump isnt even moving at all. I tried hitting the gas tank with a rubber mallot to get it to spin, some people said that can temp make it work..it didnt. (though it was hard to find an opening to hit the actual tank as it has a protector over the tank) All the dash lights etc work now (not sure about the wipers, they went crazy so i unplugged them) and no smoke comes from the cabin (where the ecu and all the wiring is..) anymore when we start it. (weve started it a couple times and ran it off gas from a bottle, just to turn the AC on and get it running since it sat for so long..still cant believe the car even starts) but there still may be a shorted wire or something who knows. i dont know how to check if power is actually getting to the fuel pump. i have a multimeter but where would i test for power? any help here is much appreciated. my dad has a new car now and was going to junk this one. I'll be 16 next month and am willing to put money into it to get it running. Thanks PS, car does have an oil leak and has had said oil leak for years.. not sure if its a common problem, just wanted to mention it. Thanks again! PSS. We have a new battery, and battery terminal connectors. Me and my dad are willing to replace the fuel pump ourselves, as my dad does have some equiptment. (requires dropping tank).. Just want to make sure its the fuel pump and not something else. if its worth it, might as well just rent a uhual dolly for like 40 bucks and tow it over to Joel's house and let him fix it for a fee.. sorry for such a long post, I just wanted to make sure i provide every detail i can. thanks, yet again. lol
  8. ok i have a 03 protege 5 WITH A 5 SPEED the engine blew a hole in block looked for a motor and didnt find anything they start at $850 everywhere i looked, So I Ended up buying a good running 2000 626 2.0 with auto trans car with 126k miles. We pulled the engine out the car did not mark where the crank was set at and just pulled belt and water pump off to install new ones. we set it at top dead center and put everything back together drop engine back in car get everything hooked back up and go to start it and it sounds like a echo weedeater cutting out a little back firing maybe getting up to 200 rpms then dies crank it again same thing this time cranks for about two seconds then dies.. that was back in may well yesterday i take off timing cover and valve cover and notice we are alittle off on timing we lined the crank pulley that the belts go around and lined themark on it up with the T on the timing belt lower cover, then set it with INTAKE SIDE CAM PULLEY AT 3:00 AND EXHAUST SIDE AT 9:00 throw it back together go to start same thing just not staying running sounds like no fuel and running on 1 cyl . My uncle and me just did a timing belt and water pump on the 98 626 i have back in feb. no problems we also just turned the crank without the Pulley being on and lined it up to top dead with the screw driver trick I Swapped over my valve cover to the 626 2.0 thats in the protege to run the coil packs are the timing sensor the same and is the crank sensor the same from the REAL pro5 engine i took out anyone have any ideas thanks alot
  9. turning to a nightmare

    Hello everybody my names Marcel, and i recently purchased a 1990 mazda 626 gt for $850 when I initially looked at it it had no check engine lights on, and was boosting nicely. Downside was the very recent oil change was done by the owners friend who put regular oil in, and not synthetic. So the same night i bought it i swapped to 10w-30 castrol synthetic oil right away. Later into the next day the white smoke out the back stopped (2nd day i had it). The second day i had it i noticed the temp gauge fluctuates, and at idle will start to overheat only until i start moving. I've spent a whole long time on these forums looking for solutions, but everything checks out. I did a coolant pressure test, and its fine, also my electric fans do kick in. By this point i've come to the conclusion it's a headgasket. . Since i only bought the car for 850 i don't mind parting with it or scrapping it. Anyone have a suggestion?? i won't be able to sell this car in my state worth crap. (utah) So I wanna know if any of you guys want it or parts off it before i decide to scrap it. Reason why i don't want to do the head gasket is because my auto school doesn't have any jobs for me to get credit for the head gasket change so i can't work on it in there period. Which leaves me to do it in my drive way which i don't have near the amount of equipment to do so. Lastly I don't want to find out that the heads warped, or there are burned or varnished valves either because that would just drain my funds for now. I know it's a rare car, and so i would rather see someone who's passionate about these cars to take it since other than some dings around the body it's pretty straight. i can post a picture on here as requested.
  10. Hello - i have an 01 626 with just over 210k miles on it. I've had the car about 5 years and for the first four years, about once a year, the car wouldn't start when you turned the key. Didn't matter how many times you turned it, just didn't start. Id shift into neutral and it would start up, or if not then when i shifted back into P it would start then. Honestly wasn't a big deal. About a month ago it started doing this much more often, maybe 25% of the times i tried to start it. And here we are today where the car sits in my driveway and wont start at all. Battery was changed maybe 6 months ago and it is still clean and terminals are clean. As it happened more and more, when it DID actually start it started up totally normal. The starter did not turn over slower or longer before it fired up. When you turned the key one and two clicks everything seems normal in the car, lights are all on, radio works, presets still there. When you turns the key all the way (in park or N) there is a single click from somewhere in the engine and the lights slightly dim in the cabin, but no start. I've read around a little bit on this site in the past 30 min and have found some similar issues. Id appreciate any advise!
  11. headlight covers??

    Soooo today, while walking out to my car, I looked down and noticed something very strange that I can't believe I haven't seen before. My passenger's side parking light was completely full of water. I knew there was a tiny crack, but I hadn't ever noticed the hole. Needless to say, its been rainy the last few days, and apparently, the sucker filled with water. The bulbs are rusted and cracked so those will need to be replaced but for now, I just taped over the hole. My question to you guys is: where can I find a new/used one for about $35? The cheapest they have on eBay are about $62-$65, which is too much considering I am not the most priveledged of people. I went to my local junkyards and no one has one, but they quoted me $35 for when they would have one. Problem is, there's only about 4 other 90's Mazda 626's In the area, and I think they're holding up just fine. Help me find a new parking light cover! Here's a close up on the crack. Stupid thing; I don't even know where it came from! I think someone may have backed into my car >,>
  12. hello! I'm Nikki

    I just started this and am happy to see forums about fixing up Mazda's. I've had my car for four years and have already put a lot of work in it, but it can always use more. Its a bit of a wiring nightmare, so I've had to tiptoe. Under the hood everything works great except for the fuel injection. It likes to die sometimes if I stop too fast and doesn't kick up to freeway speed very fast. I know its expensive to replace because of the pricey parts so I was wondering if it could just be a simple hose that's not quite doing it's job? I'll talk about this later... I want to show you my car baby! The truck is also a 91, but its a Ford ranger. We got it in pretty awful shape and been fixing er up as well. Okay, I know I'm a dork, yes I spray-painted my rims and emblems (they need to be re-done). Its not in as fine condition that I'd like, but hey, I'm a poor kid.
  13. Hi , I have a Mazda 626 2001 and I bought a kit keyless entry I tried to ride but it has been almost impossible to just get the car open and can not find the cable that closes 've tried the five-wire actuator door and no one does anything. Need the color of the wires that open and close to make connections correctly. Switchboard kit two wires are those who have to connect to an external actuator or the cables of the original central locking out , as I said connecting wires I only get the car open but not that close, if they need more information let me know and if I get ride with you help I can give a small reward via paypal
  14. End of an era. Due to front end damage Im now deciding to part out my 1995 Mazda 626 Deluxe Hatch rather than fix the radiator support bar. Someone with the time or skill could restore this easily enough but with a bigger family priorities have changed. Someof the items fitted: Digital Climate Control BC Coilovers Upgraded Mazda 6 Front Brakes Full Leather Interior. V6 Manual. Msg me crobson69 At gmail.com or phone me 0447 714 208
  15. HELP!!

    Help! Not a clue what I'm doing but for the money I thought I'd give it a shot. Here's the deal: aquired an 88 626 non turbo 2.2 standard for free. The owner said a spark plug piece broke off and fell on top of piston #3. Didn't bother to question him, he seemed like he knew what he was talking about and whatever, the car was free. I hauled it away and called around to find a new engine. Found an engine from a scrapyard that's a 1991 626 non turbo 2.2 but it's an automatic. I pulled the engine from the 88, swapped the clutch plate with the flywheel from the automatic and all that jazz, bolted em back together and dropped it back in. Mechanically, everything went perfectly smooth (same platform 88-92) but when I went to connect the wiring harness to the injectors, they didn't mate. My questions are; could I just swap over the entire top end from the last engine? (maximum effort) could I just swap the intake portion of the head from the last engine? and would it work on the new engines head what with the cams, distributor and timing and all that? Or could I just get a new wiring harness and 91 computer that would work in a standard car with an automatic engine setup (I don't even know if that's a thing. I know the engine is the same internally but is an automatics intake/injectors tuned differently or something? Or could I just swap the injectors? (Least effort) What would be the easiest route and who has some insight on how to get this puppy running?
  16. Side window deflectors?

    Does anyone have a source for side window deflectors? I guess they are also called rain guards among other names I assume. I have been searching for these for some time and was wondering if any of you guys know of any ever being available for the 88-92 626 specifically the hatch back.
  17. Manual conversion 1981 626

    i was wondering how much it would cost and is it easy to do thanks also 5 speed
  18. Workshop Manual

    I stumbled upon this workshop manual. Might come in handy for you guys 626_workshop_manual.pdf
  19. 94 626 Hla Problem.

    Im new to this site and have been having some issues with my 626. It is the 2.0 Fs-de engine with a 5-speed manual and about 135,000 kilometers on the dash. Recently it started to tick every so often. I took it to the dealer for an oil change( synthetic 5w-30) and about a month later it came back even worse. Its to the point where it sounds like im running on 3 cylinders. Im not sure what i should do or if its a costly fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  20. 1980 626 Sedan 2.0 Exhaust/extractors

    Hi, I recently purchased a 1980 Mazda 626 and I've been chasing an exhaust and extractors. I don't know if I'm just not searching in the right places but I cant find anything and I'm close to just buying the pipe and bends and making it all myself hah. Can anyone help? Cheers
  21. Hey guys, Anyone know where to buy and what type of bulbs go into the cluster for the gauges and power/econ lights? thanks!
  22. 91' Mazda 626 - Lighting Issue

    Hey guys, new member here. I've got a 91' mazda 626 and the issue is with the Power/Eco toggle switch and cluster light. The power light glows and enables, but the eco light does not illuminate and not sure if its enabling either. If anybody has insight on this issue, please feel free to comment with solutions, it will be highly appreciated! Thanks guys
  23. Airbag Light Flashes 7 Twice

    The airbag light started flashing out of nowhere one day. It flashes 7 times pauses then flashes 7 again. I've looked up codes and there isn't a 77.. What does this mean??
  24. Started Making A Kit For The Gv

    We have started making our bodykit for our 626 but may alter the splitter yet .
  25. Overheating 1996 Mazda 626 V6

    My car recently started overheating. 1996 Mazda 626 V6 220,000 miles We did replace the thermostat. I have the water pump but havent put it in yet as it appears to be quite a chore and wanted to get an opinion before I replace it. When it sits in idle with nothing on its fine temp gauge rests in the middle. Went for a short 7 minute drive and it slowly lifted to the H position. Today I had it parked and just ran it, it was fine. I turned on the heater and it took several minutes for it to rise above the middle section of the gauge. I switched to AC and it rose steadily to the H position. The thermostat I believe was part of an issue with the car. Before replacing it the car took quite a while to heat up, now it warms up to the middle of the temp gauge in about 5 minutes. I am what I like to call "car retarded" so all this is very new to me, any help will be useful and if it could be in the plainest english that would be great. I was running low on water in the radiator, when it was drained it was very brown and wasnt very much. After replacing the thermostat and thinking the car was good we replaced the fluid with 50/50 antifreeze. Now that its still overheating we are looking for other options, we plan to flush the radiator (what is the best way to do that?) Also what do I do to properly dispose of the antfreeze that comes out? If I could get a list of to do, from easiest to hardest that would be amazing! Thank you in advance