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Found 80 results

  1. Hi, looking to do an auto to manual conversion, but the manual box I am getting is on a diesel RF. Will that fit onto the FE engine? Cheers
  2. $OPEN TO OFFERS + WITH PARTS FROM SECOND CAR Mazda 626 cb2. classic now 36 years old 2.0L ma engine, August '82 build date. 4 door, 3sp automatic, blue interior code, runs good, INTERIOR COMPLETE. 230xxx kms, unfortunatly no rego or rwc. Spare parts include: Full ma engine with 4 speed gearbox, including pedal assembly and clutch lines, Original boss kit with a smaller old school momo 3spoke steering wheel Complete nose cone all removable panels, wheels, bumpers, trim, wipers All interior parts from dash including instrument cluster vents switches all removable trim, etc. Basically a whole car if parts if something is needed Ok so i have finally decided to part with my mazda as i need funds for another project. So i found this in a barn in bairnsdale vic 3 years ago. It had very little interior and was not running In the years i have owned it i have comleted the fitment of all parts needed, rebuilt the engine with new gaskets throughout. Not being able to find many parts i decided to buy a second car which i stripped for parts. So this sale comes with alot of spare parts from engine interior all removeable panels and trims and wheels I have mananged to bring this car back from The dead. Can organise drop off if required. Can travel long distance if needed very reliable car. 7
  3. I recently had oan intermitant heater problem then my 02 mazda 626 began t run hot. I flushed radiator which looked like brown mud, flushed heater core and refilled with new antifreeze. The car ran great for two days. then the engine started overheating into hotzone right at the line. I had already replaced the thermostat.I figured it was the coolant temp sensor and last night I was going to replace it. I first drained some of the anti freeze out of the radiator and couldn't believe I have oil mixed with the anti freeze. any suggestion as what caused this would be appreciated. Is it possible I blew a head gasket. I hSD mechanic FRIEND TELL ME THAT I HAD A BAD RADIATOR. How ever the oil cooler line doesn't enter into the radiator. Any thoughts on what caused this or what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated.
  4. Hello is there anyone that can help me get code for my mazda using a paper clip with check engine light on I believe my throttle body sensor is bad or needs to be clean but I’m not sure trying to get some codes??!!
  5. I tore into the lower end of my 2.5L V6 to see what is wrong with my engine, it’s knocking. So, does Mazda use a different kind of bolt, because these bolt heads don’t look like what I was expecting to find. I’ve worked on various cars, but this is the first time I’ve taken apart a Mazda engine. Do they use a proprietary wrench/socket to assemble/disassemble? (See picture to see bolt head.)
  6. Hi everyone, I hope someone can help me. I have a 93 mazda 626 LX. And I have to replace the temperature sensor. I replace the 1st one that is the engine coolant temperature sensor And I know that the 2nd one is the temperature sending unit. I just don't know what the 3rd one is. It has a green harness. Does anyone know what it is/called? I went to the auto parts store and they said it was like the first one, so I bought it and put it on and it made my car shake real bad and it wanted to turn off, so I took it back. Can it be a temperature sensor switch?
  7. Hi, I have a Mazda 626 1998 Sedan Automatic, it has an issue with charging the battery. The car always starts very easy however the Alternator is not charging the battery right from the start. Have this problem for more than a year and Here is more precisely what's happening: - When I start the engine (cold engine not started for more than 3 hours) Alternator does not start charging the battery immediately but after 20 to 40 minutes... and afterwords everything works fine so the alternator charges the battery as normally as it should and does that for an unlimited time as long as the engine works or it has not been turned of for more than 2 hours.. However after turning of the engine and letting it cool down for more than 2 hours the simptom occurs again (again alternator takes a lot of time until starts charging the battery). Just to mention that within the period of about less than 2 hours after turning of the engine, the car can be started easy and the alternator charges the battery as normal as it should (right from the time of starting the engine). The other thing I've noticed is that If I drive a relatively cold engine on a freeway alternator starts charging the battery even later, maybe after 50 minutes. Have this problem for more than a year. I have asked quite a few car mechanics but I haven't found a single one who knows what the problem is and what should be done for car to be repaired. What I read about the proces of charging is: the particular Alternator(Mitsubishi A2TB0191): do not have a traditional Regulator but instead have a field control Unit. Alternator has a P-D Connector Mitsubishi A2TB0191 Alternators with P-D Regulators require special testing, the voltage control & warning lamp functions are in the vehicle PCM (Computer). * P Terminal is Stator Phase & is a direct connection to stator AC Volts. This allows the PCM to Monitor Alternator Field. * D Terminal is Driver connected to Vehicle PCM (Computer), and is used to control the output of the field control unit by varying Base current on a transistor which in turn varies field current thereby controlling Alternator output and voltage. The above means: -on the P terminal PCM monitor the Alternator Field - D Terminal is Driver connected to Vehicle PCM (Computer) from where gets a control signal. -------------------------- As a conclusion would say PCModule gets all the infos from the sensors and ECU and sends a proper controlling signal to the alternator's D-terminal. So is there some particular sensor malfunctioning (which one would that be?) or ist something else. in that regard just to poit out that the tme when Alternator starts charging the battery is prolonging meaning that the alternator's D-terminal is getting a starting signal from the PCM at a later and later time. All of the above I have written more as a thinking but obviously I don't know what is the problem I hope you know what is the problem with the car and might give me an advice what should be done? Thank you
  8. Current DD/Project 1991 MX-6 LX W/ Turbo swap _Mods_ Engine: -Performance Dual Valve Springs -Bosh DRI GT injectors -Walbro 190LPH Fuel Pump -ATX throttlebody with thermo spacer -EGR Block Off Plate -A/C Delete -Aluminum 2 Row 'custom' Radiator -Aluminum Lightweight Crankpulley -100% Emissions, PCV, EGR and Vacuum Rail Delete. -MSD Blaster 2 Coil Conversion -NGK Wireset, NGK Plugs -Spark Plugs/Wires Thermo Insulators Drivetrain: -Stock N/A Trans -Previous owner replaced clutch with OEM equivalent, I have not upgraded yet Turbo: - VF12/VJ11 Hybrid. VF12 Turbine, center section and compressor wheel, VJ11 Turbine housing, machined out to fit VF12 Turbine LINK -HKS Hardpipe kit, HKS SSQ Black Series BOV (Likely a knockoff) -Custom 2.5" O2 housing -Custom 2.5" Downpipe With Side Exit -OEM Intercooler Suspension: -25MM Wheel Spacers -16" Mitsubishi Ecplise wheels W/ 225/50/16 Cheapish Tires -AWR Trailing Links -Ground Control Coilovers -KYB GR2 Struts -Custom "Dutch" FSTB, OEM GT RSTB -OEM GT Rear Lower Tie Bar -89' Probe GT 18MM Rear Sway Bar -Energy Endlinks, Sway Bar bushings -Ebay Slotted Front Rotors W/ Ceramic pads MISC: -Autometer Vacuum/Boost Gauge -Innovative LC-1 Wideband/Gauge -Generic Sunpro 3 Gauge pod; Coolant-Volts-Oil Pressure -HKS Turbo Timer -ZKW Foglight Grill -Grant GT Steering Wheel -Generic 4PT racing Harness -Whistler Radar Detector -1080P 60FPS Dashcam -Manifold, O2 Housing and Turbo Center Section Painted 1000F Black -Valve Cover, FSTB and VAF Painted "Grabber Green" -Brass Shifter Bushings -Custom VAF Harness Extension Weight reduction: -Front Bumper Crash Bar and Support Removed -From the Front Seats Back, All Interior Removed -Battery Relocated to Rear of Trunk -A/C delete, Cat Delete General Maintence: -Gates Timing Belt, Tensioner, Idler -Disty Cap, Rotor -Fuel Filter -Wix oil Filter, Mobil1 5W30 -Felpro Valve Stem Seals -Frequent Alignments -Always filled up with Shell V-Power 91, Never Over Half a Tank, Save Weight
  9. I stumbled upon this workshop manual. Might come in handy for you guys 626_workshop_manual.pdf
  10. ****Disclaimer Part 1**** I am not a certified mechanic, or an automotive expert. I am simpy someone that has ONLY owned an F2 or F2T engine car, and because of that, I happen to know a lot about it, and how to mess with it. Everything I have done is an experiment, a guess or an outcome of hours sometimes days or weeks or months of research. Multiply this by 6 years and I start to think I'm pretty good at it. I could always be wrong, forget something, or need to be corrected. ****Disclaimer Part 2*** If you question the health of your engine (leaks, drips, shakes, shimmys, bumps, knocks, pings, pongs, creaks, squeaks, squeals, rattles, taps, ticks, tocks, dings, dongs, unexplained smells or smoke DO NOT TURBO, FIX IT FIRST DUMMY!!! Hello! So you have a non-turbo 88-92 Mazda 626, MX-6, or ford Probe, and want to swap the turbo parts from a GT to make your car faster and cooler. Lets begin with what a GT F2T comes with that makes it a GT, (not necessarily what you NEED, but simply what makes it different than the F2) -Engine block (same shape and design only difference is extra nipples near the turbo for oil and coolant feeds/returns and different piston compression ratio) -Oil dipstick -Cylinder head (exhaust valves are heat treated, that's it) -Turbo, exhaust manifold, EGR pipe, intake pipes, charge pipes, intercooler -GT injectors (square plug for 88-89, oval plug for 90-92) -GT ECU (computer unit), that means the engine harness is different as well -Distributor, ignition system -Knock sensor (back of block) -Oil cooler, has coolant lines running to a sandwich plate the oil filter screws onto -Flywheel, clutch, c/v axles, transmission (all different from a non-turbo) and that includes engine and transmission mounts -Front wheel hubs (to support the different spline count on the GT c/v axles -Oil line that feeds the turbo (comes from back of the block, to the right of the oil filter) *two pieces* -Hard coolant pipe (wraps around front of block), has an extra nipple for turbo coolant hoses. On top of all that, the F2T has lower compression pistons than the F2, to allow for safer boosting and makes it literally fool proof (or very close) "But doesn't that mean if I turbo swap my non-turbo, I will make more HP than the F2T?" YES, much more. I will get to that soon. Ok, so your probably saying "wow, that's a huge parts list." Yes it is, BUT remember I said this is just what makes a GT, a GT. Not necessarily what you NEED to turbo swap your F2. "I'm not made of money, what's the bare minimum I need to turbo swap?" Hey, you're preaching to the priest on that one, I turbo swapped my F2 over night, with the absolute bare minimum, with a final cost of a little over $100 (the turbo was $90, so you probably see where I'm coming from lol) Minimum GT parts to make your non-turbo F2 Mazda into a F2-T: -Manifold, turbo, O2 housing, EGR pipe, exhaust downpipe -All intake pipes and clamps, including intercooler and OEM bypass valve unit -Metal oil line feed line (two pieces) from back of block, including the banjo bolt with the hole in it, and crush washer -**Injectors (higher flow rate than the non-turbo)** -Oil dipstick -Vacuum/boost gauge -Wideband tuning kit for reading air/fuel ration, and allowing you to PROPERLY tune your engine (I'm probably forgetting something, so I'll fix this if I remember or get corrected) -Extra vacuum line, coolant line, vacuum T's, fittings, clamps, and other stuff too probably *example* Turbo, manifold, and O2 housing: GT injectors: Charge pipes: Throttlebody boot, and other charge pipes: Intercooler: Where does the oil feed go????? There's a sensor in the way!!!!! Check it out: Dont forget the banjo bolt! Banjo bolt, BPV (Bypass Valve), GT dipstick and turbo support bracket: Problems with doing the bare minimum: 1. Because you swapped in the GT injectors, it will run super, super rich at idle and cruise, making it almost un-drivable (I will explain this) 2. You will not have coolant feed or drain for the turbo 3. There will not be a nipple for you to run the turbo oil drain line to 4. Your clutch cannot, and probably will not, hold the power you will now be making 5. There is a unit on the turbo called the boost solenoid, this controls boost levels. Because you don't have the GT ECU and harness, it will be unplugged, you can even remove it completely. Solutions for these problems: 1. **Important** (See below these steps) 2. If you tap into the coolant lines near the non-turbo distributor area, you can make a system that feeds the turbo (You will need extra hose, and T fittings) 3. If you JB weld (or equivalent), a barb fitting into the oil pan under the turbo near the drain pipe on the turbo, you can make a DIY drain hose into the oil pan *example* 4. Buy an reputable, (NOT EBAY), clutch kit that can handle the power. (Southbend non-turbo stage 2 kit for example) 5. Run a vacuum line dirrectly from the compressor nipple on the turbo, to the nipple on the wastegate. You should have between 7psi and 10psi of boost before the wastegate opens. 1. To solve the issue of running super duper rich, I took off the top plastic cover from my VAF unit to tighten the air metering door spring, and I also drilled out the idle mixture control plug, to adjust idle richness. I knew exactly what I was doing, and what the VAF does, I was able to have an absolutely perfect tune @10psi and over 25MPG. I DO NOT RECOMMEND ANYONE TO DO THAT The VAF unit is very sensitive, and once you change the OEM setting (unless you mark it) you can never go back. You might be asking, ok then, so can I use the non-turbo injectors? I never tried using the non-turbo injectors while boosting, I assumed that because of the lower flow rate, it would run too lean and be too risky. So I understand I told you to run the GT injectors AND not to touch the VAF....this is very contradictory and leaves a huge blank spot in the how-to. I cannot just simply tell you how to tune the VAF for GT injectors, I can only tell you what I did, and that I do not recommend the average Mazda owner to open it up and try to duplicate my results. What I did to lean my tune, to support the use of GT injectors on a non-turbo: Inside the VAF, under the plastic cover, is a wound up spring that controls the stiffness of the airdoor. How far this door opens, is how much fuel your injectors let out. Once you put in GT injectors, this door does not need to open as much, or as easily, since the new injectors dump in a lot more fuel. "Ok, I guess I understand...so I need to tighten the spring?" Yes, it is a 'click' setup. Turn the gear clockwise, and each click is a little leaner. Turn the gear counter-clockwise and it richens. Example: (This is inside the VAF, under the plastic cover, the arrow is pointing to the locking 'thingie' that stops the gear) The big black plastic block is controlled by the spring, and attatched to the door inside. The metal arm on this black unit, rides along a track and in turn tells the ECU how much air is pulling the door open. "Interesting, so how many clicks?" I can't really answer that, ever motor is different. For me, it was anywhere from 5 to 10 clicks clockwise, or more. And I was constantly adjusting this to account for further engine modifications, or tune-ups. For example, if you start up your car with GT injectors directly after the swap, you will notice how poorly it idles (if it even starts), and if you try to drive around, it will perform horrible, but probably boost. With the VAF cover off, you will see that the sensor arm is kind of bobbing around or at a steady location, the air the engine is sucking in, is pulling the door open, thusly telling the ECU how much fuel to dump in. Understand? You can use you finger the see how the arm inside the VAF controls the tune, gently push the arm so the door is less open, and it will get leaner, and maybe start running better, since it will be too rich to begin with. Push the arm so the door opens more, and the engine will probably stop running, because it will be too rich. Lets assume you've done what I have recommended you should not, and have gotten your cruise air/fuel ratio to a point that allows the car to drive and boost without blowing up or bogging down from too much fuel. There is a likely chance it will be too lean at idle (if you make it too lean), and either over heat, or want to stall. You shouldnt have to lean too much after the injector install, to the point where you need to richen the idle tune, but in case you do, and need to know how: Remember that idle air/fuel plug I mentioned? Here it is: There is an alluminum plug on the VAF that hides a brass adjustment screw, you can drill out the plug to get to the screw. BE CAREFUL, drill too far and you're screwed (haha, get it?.......) Turning it clockwise, allows less air to bypass the door, meaning it makes it as rich as possible at idle, counter clockwise, allows more air to bypass the door making the idle tune leaner. I used a universal narrowband air/fuel ration gauge and a volt meter hooked up to my O2 sensor, to get as good of a tune as I possibly could, at idle, cruis, and while boosting. Lot's of research, practice and a watchful eye on my spark plugs kept me from being too lean, and detonating while in boost (exploding my engine internals.) DISCLAIMER Part 3: Any mechanic, engine builder, shop or profesional will tell you that any change in air/fuel ratio or attempt to, should be made with a proper tuning device, and by someone who knows exactly what they are doing. NOT an of the shelf narrowband, since they have a less than a 1/4 of the ability of a wideband. Meaning, a wideband oxygen sensor and gauge is MANDATORY for tuning your air/fuel ratio, you should not even attempt to tune you car by sight/sound/feel alone. "Wait, but that's what you did...and that's basically what you're telling me to do" OK maybe, but I'm also saying do it at your own risk, and I'm not responsible if you blow up your motor, ok? Everything from ignition timing to tuning air/fuel ratio, I've done by sight/sound/smell/feel, and it's been close to perfect every time. Am I god? No, just really carefull, and have had lots of practice, for better or worse. If you expect your engine to last at all, properly setting your ignition timing along with constant maintence/inspection is a must. **This how-to is a work in progress, I need to spell check it, error check it, and make sure I didn't leave something huge out. Suggestions, corrections and constructive critisism is welcomed**
  11. This past October I bought my 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6 from my friend's cousin who had moved away. My friend had previously been driving it for about a month, but it was constantly overheating. Eventually he bought his new car and it stayed in his grandparents driveway 7 months until I was about to buy it. Their mechanic who'd worked on the car for years said it needed a new radiator, which he put in. Once I took it to emissions, I realized the check engine light was on and turns out it needed new O2 sensors. I knew it had been low on oil from sitting so many months plus nothing on the dipstick. So my father gave me a quart of oil (don't remember what kind). Right after I put it in, the engine started a rumbling/knocking noise. Shaking almost. It would settle down a little when I took off the breaks, but increased as I accelerated. I was able to drive it home which was 10 minutes away and to my friend's place 15 mins away with noise. Some say it needs a new engine, but I think it may be that oil we put in. Anything sound familiar?
  12. Hi people. I'm new at the forum so I don't know if I'm writing this at the right place. I have a Mazda 626 GD 1.8 12valv from 1991 that I bought one year ago. Now i am needing to buy an engine head to repair it because the original is ruined. Im from Portugal. Wath sugestions do you have?
  13. Hello guys, I'm new on the forum, I've been reading for a while and I'm not sure where to post this, so I will post it here. I've checked and I couldn't find this elsewhere, if I'm in wrong topic please direct me to the right one. I'm in need of a Radiator Hose, Front Right Window Regulator and Rear Left Window Regulator. The only places I found these parts were located in the US and the shipping was always 3-4x the price of the parts. (in other words, it was above $100) Is there any european or asian site/store that sells these parts for a reasonable price and with a reasonable shipping price ? Thanks a lot! P.S. I'm located in Macedonia
  14. Okay, so i beg you read this. its been pretty crazy. so i originally made this post on Tomshardware, but now i found this AWESOME site!! read my OG post here ; (actually red it before replying please..) " LEASE READ!!! It's been a year and a half, really need help..Hi, here's my problem.Specs of car are2000 Mazda 626, LX V6Now, about a year & a half ago my father went to start the car, he was going to take it to the shop & get a new battery & see why the car kept swelling the battery up & making it so hot. So he takes the battery cables off (so he could get to the mechanic without the battery swelling up/exploding) which he's done countless times in the past, but this time when he did it, the headlights flashed, windshield wipers came on & the car Reved down until it was off. From then on it hasn't been able to start. Windshield wipers do not workTurn signals do not workCar will crank but not startFuel pump does not engage, when you out the key in, the car beeps & nothing on the dash lights up (except for door open indicator), and when you turn the key to the ON position, nothing else happens it just sits there beeping fast instead of going to the 6 beep sequence then stopping.. Fuel pump doesn't engage. Wipers don't work nor do turn signals. The car will crank but not turn over. Now, it was up until this point that me and him thought it was okay to disconnect the battery while the car was running as the alternator would take over.. After this happened I did some research and learned that the battery acts as a capacitor and limits voltage spikes. So, yeah, it was a dumb move. Any idea on what the hell happened!? Literally I've searched the Internet hundreds of times with different wording & no one else in the entire planet has ever had this happen!? I can't find ONE other person with this problem. It's like everyone is clueless. &I no we haven't taken it to the mechanic as it costs money to tow it there and be looked at.. Haven't tried a new battery, but we have tried jumping it with another car which acts as a new battery (as the engine cranks & the indoor lights are bright) so we definitely know it's not the battery. So rundown -tried disconnecting battery cables while car was running-car shut off-won't start now-dash doesn't work, can't see mileage or anything else (fuel gauge etc)-cranks, doesn't start- fuel pump makes no noise- beeping sequence stays same when key is inserted into the ignition Please help" ALSO, I THEN REPLIED TO MY OG THREAD WITH THIS COMMENT "I am beyond imagination shocked. So, the car started just an hour ago. this spanish guy (Joel) that has always wanted to buy my dads honda civic came buy and asked if he could buy it again, and my dad laughed and said his friend was borrowing it from him right now etc. so my dad asks if he knows anything about mazda's.. he says oh yeah man. so my dad explains the problem to him.. this guy opens the driver door and asks for the key, he puts the key in the ignition, turns it and it cranks were like yeah see. and so he gets on his knees, and without looking at the fuse diagram starts pulling fuses and me and my dad are looking at eachother like hm. so then the dashboard lights, headlights, windshield wipers and gauges come on - me and my dad look at each other amazed and say "thats never happened what did you do?" he goes "hold on man" he gets in the car and cranks it a couple times, the car starts and runs momentarily for about 3 seconds and dies. me and my dad look at eachother in amazement and ask him what he did, and he says "you got any gas?" without a word me and my dad run into the garage looking for a gas can and bring one to him, he pours it directly in the engine bay in the throttle thing, and he says watch this, he turns the key, the gauges and all light up and he cranks it.. the car starts. the car runs for about 10 seconds and sounds perfect. me and my dad are amazed. he says "you have a bad fuel pump". we do the gas trick a couple more times to see it run and make sure it wasnt just a dream. he says he can replace the fuel pump for us for cheap. the windshield wipers would not turn off and slight smoke did come from the cabin. he said we probably have a short in a ground-wire somewhere causing it to smoke and for the electronics to act funny and thats why the fuses were blowing. so, were going to tow the car to his house and hes gonna help us fix it. we are completely stunned. this guy hasnt showed up but twice in the last 7-8 years, and today, out of the blue, the same day me and my dad randomly decided to fix the battery connector cables and buy a new battery and fuses, he shows up. what are the chances? and he says he has the same engine in his mazda suv. what are the chances? we are so shocked. the car hasnt run in a year and a half, and randomly today we decide to mess with it. the SAME day he decides to show up and ask if he can buy the honda for the first time in at least 2 years. wow. If we didn't believe in God before, we sure as hell do now LOL" Now, the thing is, we dont really have any money to get this car to his house. i want to make SURE its the fuel pump before i make any moves here. i tested the fuel pump relay's - all check out okay. no buzzing noise can be heard coming from the fuel pump when cranking or when turning the key to the ON position.. so im assuming the fuel pump isnt even moving at all. I tried hitting the gas tank with a rubber mallot to get it to spin, some people said that can temp make it work..it didnt. (though it was hard to find an opening to hit the actual tank as it has a protector over the tank) All the dash lights etc work now (not sure about the wipers, they went crazy so i unplugged them) and no smoke comes from the cabin (where the ecu and all the wiring is..) anymore when we start it. (weve started it a couple times and ran it off gas from a bottle, just to turn the AC on and get it running since it sat for so long..still cant believe the car even starts) but there still may be a shorted wire or something who knows. i dont know how to check if power is actually getting to the fuel pump. i have a multimeter but where would i test for power? any help here is much appreciated. my dad has a new car now and was going to junk this one. I'll be 16 next month and am willing to put money into it to get it running. Thanks PS, car does have an oil leak and has had said oil leak for years.. not sure if its a common problem, just wanted to mention it. Thanks again! PSS. We have a new battery, and battery terminal connectors. Me and my dad are willing to replace the fuel pump ourselves, as my dad does have some equiptment. (requires dropping tank).. Just want to make sure its the fuel pump and not something else. if its worth it, might as well just rent a uhual dolly for like 40 bucks and tow it over to Joel's house and let him fix it for a fee.. sorry for such a long post, I just wanted to make sure i provide every detail i can. thanks, yet again. lol
  15. So, after sucessfully installing a HEI module with the external coil, I decided I would try to get the KF distributor to work on a KL, simply to get it to look more like the OEM setup instead of having the coil tower sticking out of the distributor cap, and I am also planning on getting a KF ignitor installed later for a cleaner OEM look. I can only confirm this to be working for the 93-94 models of the KL powered cars, but I am pretty sure this will work with the 95-97 aswell! Keep in mind you will have to already have the HEI with external coil installed in order to do this mod! So, what you'll need for this tutorial is: KF distributor with external coil (This has a 4 wire plug instead of a 3+6 like the KL, keep in mind some KF's have internal coil so be sure it's the right one before getting one!) Preferable a new distributor cap and rotor, this is not needed if you get a new distributor or the old one is still good, but if it's used I highly recommend to get a new one. A new 4 wire plug (I got mine from http://www.cycleterminal.com, it's called "Female DL 090-4B" and is listed under "Connectors->DL 090 Series->4 pin DL 090 Female Connector", http://www.cycleterminal.com/dl-090-series.html) Standard tools, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm wrenches (or pipe), Phillips PH2 (or similar) screwdriver, and a small flathead screwdriver. So, we'll start with the hard part, the repinning of the 6 wire plug. Now the repinning is fairly easy, in order to go it you'll have to take the old pins out, or cut the wires and add the new terminals from cycleterminal on (this is selv explainatory so I am not going to show you how to mount them) The KL plug looks like this: And the KF like this: What you have to do is move Pin 1 from the 6 wire plug to Pin 1 on the 4 wire plug, Pin 2-Pin 2, Pin 3-Pin 3, Pin 4-Pin 4 super easy huh? KL Pin 1 -> KF Pin 1 KL Pin 2 -> KF Pin 2 KL Pin 3 -> KF Pin 3 KL Pin 4 -> KF Pin 4 KL Pin 5 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) KL Pin 6 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) Once that is done, the new plug should look like this: Now all you need to do now, is install the new distributor, plug in the 4 wire plug, and connect the plug wires (keep in mind the KF has a different numbering on the cap than the KL) Once that is done you are ready to test, asuming you have connected the coil wire. I've cleaned the wires up since this picture, this was just for testing. I am using a old NGK wire to my SS Blaster Coil, it works for now, but I'll swap it out for a Magnecore later. This was it guys, hope you enjoyed my first guide, if I missed or should include something let me know!
  16. Hello, My 626 decided to stop starting last friday when I was trying to head home from work. I have been trying to diagnose the issue on lunch over the past few days. The car wants to turn over but just cannot. I have found that i have good spark. So I started looking into the fuel system. I don't hear the fuel pump engage when I set the ignition to the ON position. I pulled the output tube off of the fuel filter, there was fuel in the line but it did't seem to have any pressure even though this was right after I cranked the engine. I cranked the engine again and there was no pressure coming out of the fuel filter. I couldn't get to the line in for the fuel filter yesterday. So I am thinking two things, either I have managed to completely kill a fuel filter or there is an issue with the fuel pump. I checked the fuel pump relay and it seems to be working just fine. The fuel filter seems relatively easy to change. I have heard two things about the fuel pump, either there is an access door behind or under the back seat or I have to drop the tank. I did run some injector cleaner through the fuel system a few weeks ago. Does it seem like I am on the right track? Also, is there an access panel for the 2002 626 for fuel pump work? Does anyone know of anything else that might be causing this issue? Thanks, Chris
  17. Hello everybody my names Marcel, and i recently purchased a 1990 mazda 626 gt for $850 when I initially looked at it it had no check engine lights on, and was boosting nicely. Downside was the very recent oil change was done by the owners friend who put regular oil in, and not synthetic. So the same night i bought it i swapped to 10w-30 castrol synthetic oil right away. Later into the next day the white smoke out the back stopped (2nd day i had it). The second day i had it i noticed the temp gauge fluctuates, and at idle will start to overheat only until i start moving. I've spent a whole long time on these forums looking for solutions, but everything checks out. I did a coolant pressure test, and its fine, also my electric fans do kick in. By this point i've come to the conclusion it's a headgasket. . Since i only bought the car for 850 i don't mind parting with it or scrapping it. Anyone have a suggestion?? i won't be able to sell this car in my state worth crap. (utah) So I wanna know if any of you guys want it or parts off it before i decide to scrap it. Reason why i don't want to do the head gasket is because my auto school doesn't have any jobs for me to get credit for the head gasket change so i can't work on it in there period. Which leaves me to do it in my drive way which i don't have near the amount of equipment to do so. Lastly I don't want to find out that the heads warped, or there are burned or varnished valves either because that would just drain my funds for now. I know it's a rare car, and so i would rather see someone who's passionate about these cars to take it since other than some dings around the body it's pretty straight. i can post a picture on here as requested.
  18. Does anyone have a source for side window deflectors? I guess they are also called rain guards among other names I assume. I have been searching for these for some time and was wondering if any of you guys know of any ever being available for the 88-92 626 specifically the hatch back.
  19. ok i have a 03 protege 5 WITH A 5 SPEED the engine blew a hole in block looked for a motor and didnt find anything they start at $850 everywhere i looked, So I Ended up buying a good running 2000 626 2.0 with auto trans car with 126k miles. We pulled the engine out the car did not mark where the crank was set at and just pulled belt and water pump off to install new ones. we set it at top dead center and put everything back together drop engine back in car get everything hooked back up and go to start it and it sounds like a echo weedeater cutting out a little back firing maybe getting up to 200 rpms then dies crank it again same thing this time cranks for about two seconds then dies.. that was back in may well yesterday i take off timing cover and valve cover and notice we are alittle off on timing we lined the crank pulley that the belts go around and lined themark on it up with the T on the timing belt lower cover, then set it with INTAKE SIDE CAM PULLEY AT 3:00 AND EXHAUST SIDE AT 9:00 throw it back together go to start same thing just not staying running sounds like no fuel and running on 1 cyl . My uncle and me just did a timing belt and water pump on the 98 626 i have back in feb. no problems we also just turned the crank without the Pulley being on and lined it up to top dead with the screw driver trick I Swapped over my valve cover to the 626 2.0 thats in the protege to run the coil packs are the timing sensor the same and is the crank sensor the same from the REAL pro5 engine i took out anyone have any ideas thanks alot
  20. I just started this and am happy to see forums about fixing up Mazda's. I've had my car for four years and have already put a lot of work in it, but it can always use more. Its a bit of a wiring nightmare, so I've had to tiptoe. Under the hood everything works great except for the fuel injection. It likes to die sometimes if I stop too fast and doesn't kick up to freeway speed very fast. I know its expensive to replace because of the pricey parts so I was wondering if it could just be a simple hose that's not quite doing it's job? I'll talk about this later... I want to show you my car baby! The truck is also a 91, but its a Ford ranger. We got it in pretty awful shape and been fixing er up as well. Okay, I know I'm a dork, yes I spray-painted my rims and emblems (they need to be re-done). Its not in as fine condition that I'd like, but hey, I'm a poor kid.
  21. Hello - i have an 01 626 with just over 210k miles on it. I've had the car about 5 years and for the first four years, about once a year, the car wouldn't start when you turned the key. Didn't matter how many times you turned it, just didn't start. Id shift into neutral and it would start up, or if not then when i shifted back into P it would start then. Honestly wasn't a big deal. About a month ago it started doing this much more often, maybe 25% of the times i tried to start it. And here we are today where the car sits in my driveway and wont start at all. Battery was changed maybe 6 months ago and it is still clean and terminals are clean. As it happened more and more, when it DID actually start it started up totally normal. The starter did not turn over slower or longer before it fired up. When you turned the key one and two clicks everything seems normal in the car, lights are all on, radio works, presets still there. When you turns the key all the way (in park or N) there is a single click from somewhere in the engine and the lights slightly dim in the cabin, but no start. I've read around a little bit on this site in the past 30 min and have found some similar issues. Id appreciate any advise!
  22. Soooo today, while walking out to my car, I looked down and noticed something very strange that I can't believe I haven't seen before. My passenger's side parking light was completely full of water. I knew there was a tiny crack, but I hadn't ever noticed the hole. Needless to say, its been rainy the last few days, and apparently, the sucker filled with water. The bulbs are rusted and cracked so those will need to be replaced but for now, I just taped over the hole. My question to you guys is: where can I find a new/used one for about $35? The cheapest they have on eBay are about $62-$65, which is too much considering I am not the most priveledged of people. I went to my local junkyards and no one has one, but they quoted me $35 for when they would have one. Problem is, there's only about 4 other 90's Mazda 626's In the area, and I think they're holding up just fine. Help me find a new parking light cover! Here's a close up on the crack. Stupid thing; I don't even know where it came from! I think someone may have backed into my car >,>
  23. Hi , I have a Mazda 626 2001 and I bought a kit keyless entry I tried to ride but it has been almost impossible to just get the car open and can not find the cable that closes 've tried the five-wire actuator door and no one does anything. Need the color of the wires that open and close to make connections correctly. Switchboard kit two wires are those who have to connect to an external actuator or the cables of the original central locking out , as I said connecting wires I only get the car open but not that close, if they need more information let me know and if I get ride with you help I can give a small reward via paypal
  24. End of an era. Due to front end damage Im now deciding to part out my 1995 Mazda 626 Deluxe Hatch rather than fix the radiator support bar. Someone with the time or skill could restore this easily enough but with a bigger family priorities have changed. Someof the items fitted: Digital Climate Control BC Coilovers Upgraded Mazda 6 Front Brakes Full Leather Interior. V6 Manual. Msg me crobson69 At gmail.com or phone me 0447 714 208
  25. Help! Not a clue what I'm doing but for the money I thought I'd give it a shot. Here's the deal: aquired an 88 626 non turbo 2.2 standard for free. The owner said a spark plug piece broke off and fell on top of piston #3. Didn't bother to question him, he seemed like he knew what he was talking about and whatever, the car was free. I hauled it away and called around to find a new engine. Found an engine from a scrapyard that's a 1991 626 non turbo 2.2 but it's an automatic. I pulled the engine from the 88, swapped the clutch plate with the flywheel from the automatic and all that jazz, bolted em back together and dropped it back in. Mechanically, everything went perfectly smooth (same platform 88-92) but when I went to connect the wiring harness to the injectors, they didn't mate. My questions are; could I just swap over the entire top end from the last engine? (maximum effort) could I just swap the intake portion of the head from the last engine? and would it work on the new engines head what with the cams, distributor and timing and all that? Or could I just get a new wiring harness and 91 computer that would work in a standard car with an automatic engine setup (I don't even know if that's a thing. I know the engine is the same internally but is an automatics intake/injectors tuned differently or something? Or could I just swap the injectors? (Least effort) What would be the easiest route and who has some insight on how to get this puppy running?
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