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Found 19 results

  1. I stumbled upon this workshop manual. Might come in handy for you guys 626_workshop_manual.pdf
  2. My clutch slave cylinder is leaking, so I purchased a new one, but it doesn't have the metal dowel(?) That the picture shows.. Can I use the old one? Or its it suppose to have a new one?
  3. There is a strange knocking sound from the engine/trans-axle whenever I don't shift perfectly. Only noticeable when setting off or from 1st to 2nd and a bit from 2nd to 3rd. My mechanic told my to "Not bother with it" and that it's "Somewhere in the guts of the engine". I no longer use him and do almost all my servicing myself. I'm guessing it's a crankshaft bearing or balancer related. Any Input? I'm planning a re-ring so I'll have the bottom taken apart anyways. Thanks! -Luke
  4. Looking at a 1990 mazda mx6 2.2 dx or lx. Non turbo'd. Its a clean car all around inside and out. With 200k miles which is alittle high but still worth 1000$ for the car as is. The question I have would be.....why are the RPMS sitting at 1500? When it needs to be at 1100? Do I need to replace Idle Air Control Valve? Looking into replacing it if its the right problem with the idle at 1500. -thank you Joey
  5. Hello, I will try and make this as brief as possible. I have a 98 Mazda 626LX 2.0l, 5 Speed MT, 255K miles, Additioanal Info: California/Low emmisions motor VIN: 1YVGF22CXW5747529 Because of smoking issues, it was suggested that the valve seals were warn. Making this as easy as possible I replaced the FS2 head w/ another FS2 (no distributor). Once the head job was finished, started the motor and all was fine except for the the additional smoke, even worse than before. It's suggested that with the replacement of the head , it has created more compression and forcing oil through or past the rings, is creating the added exhaust/(embarrassing) SMOKE. i am searching for suggestions, Money is short as usual, but will do what I have to do. I'm thinking, used engine(low mileage), remanufactured small block. Any help/suggestionjs is appreciated, including place to turn to for a motor. Question: I've notice FS-DE, what does it mean? how do I determine what I have? What's the difference between a AT and MT reagarding the motor/block? Jim
  6. i was wondering how much it would cost and is it easy to do thanks also 5 speed
  7. Im new to this site and have been having some issues with my 626. It is the 2.0 Fs-de engine with a 5-speed manual and about 135,000 kilometers on the dash. Recently it started to tick every so often. I took it to the dealer for an oil change( synthetic 5w-30) and about a month later it came back even worse. Its to the point where it sounds like im running on 3 cylinders. Im not sure what i should do or if its a costly fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  8. Hi all, needing a lil guidance here. Got a 98 626 5M 203k miles. Last tues it quit running. I'm pretty sure its a clutch it needs. I was doing my paper route in it when through the middle of it I go into third gear and it doesn't fully engage (its done this many of times since the 15 months I had it and would also slip out of third gear occasionally when entering a corner, but would engage if you hold the shifter) I put it back in gear and I hear a POP! RIP 3rd gear, will not engage anymore after this point. Car still runs and I still have 1,2,4, and 5 so I skip 3rd. 3/4mi later I start climbing a hill and I start downshifting from 4th. I skip 3rd n go to 2nd. No resistance, no power. I shift to 1st once I stop. Same thing, no more forward and the shifter is stuck. Dammit. I finally free it and re-check the other forwardggears, they're history. I shift to reverse to get car out of street and engage, but I get no movement and the shifter is really stuck now after I engage reverse. I shut off car then try to start again. It tries to crank but immediately stops like a locked motor. Think its just a clutch job or I may need trans work. I really like this car but don't wanna get railroaded at a shop. 3rd gear was the only one that'd slip on me and even when it did, I'd put it back in gear and it'd be fine and pull. 1,2, 4, 5, and R were fine too, never slipped in those gears. Any ideas what else could be bad in there?
  9. Whats up forum, so two days ago i wanted to push my 93 mazda 626 i4 manual to the test i decide to floor it and was impressed, 5 th gear at 132 ish . The next day i felt a disturbance. Its not that noticabel but i get alot of extra vib at the front. I checked my oils and its fine(2month old oil) dont know what else please help!!!
  10. I bought a 1991 626, 2.2L NA. It was a high mileage car about 270,000 when bought but it came with a second motor. I just pi'd the original motor 314,159 miles, I redid all the major gaskets and runs strong still. I have the second motor in my garage and I really want a turbo on it. How easy and good idea to pull stuff off a used one?!
  11. Hey guys, first post here from a proud 626 owner! I've been having an issue with my car's gearbox for some time now (~8,000km), I suspect it to be a bad Input Shaft Bearing (ISB), but it could also be a bad Thrust/Throwout/Clutch-release (whatever you want to call it) bearing or even a pilot bearing (this is less likely). The sound is a whirring/rattle type sound. Now, it only occurs under the following conditions: Clutch pedal not depressed (clutch is engaged) and car is idling. Clutch pedal depressed (clutch disengaged) while coasting. Under acceleration at lower rpm's I can hear it, also after just changing gears. The car is coming up to a service (at 230,000kms) and I was going to just replace the throwout bearing and the clutch at the same time (cause then I don't have to pull the 'box off the car again if the clutch decides to go) but after a bit of research I decided that the most likely (and most expensive!) cause is a bad ISB. I would really appreciate it if you guys could help me out in diagnosing the issue, feel free to ask questions and such too. I could also record and post a video if it would help :) FYI: The car is a 2000 Mazda 626 5-speed. (AUS spec/G25M-R) Here's a pic of my car just for the fun of it :)
  12. So I'm getting ready to go scavenge a 'new' transmission from the junkyard and I had a question about the removal. The Mazda manual says that after removing the joint shaft, to insert a mazda special tool into the transmisssion. The Haynes manual says to insert dowels or sockets in after removing the joint shaft. They say that failure to do so could result in the transmission becoming ?misaligned? and will require a rebuild. Could someone explain this to me a little better and discuss the necessity of this step? What am I trying to avoid happening to the transmission when I remove the joint shaft? I talked to djdevon about this in regards to his mtx swap and he said he had never heard of this. He also didn't have any problems. Thanks -Kevin
  13. Hi there and greetings from New Zealand! After trying to dig up some information on google about my particular vehicle and nothing really showing up I thought I'd give some enthusiasts forums a try. I was once part of a Familia 323 forum so I know one can learn a lot of information about their ride from these places. So here it goes... we have an 1989 White Mazda Capella Celebre Fulltime 4wd equipped with an FE3 DOHC mated upto a 5 speed manual gearbox. (yes I know a bit about these mighty FE3's). Now the problem lies in finding information on what the actual transfer case and gearbox are. I am wanting to know whether or not they are internally/externally similar to the Familia GT-X/GT-R gearbox and transfer cases. If so then this would be excellent. I do however know now through google searching that this vehicle is equipped with a viscous LSD differential. Thanks in Advance Troy. PS Part Numbers would be awesome!
  14. Hi everyone. So I have no 5th gear on my car right now. It pops out at any speed as soon as I put 5th in. It feels almost like it needs to move up more to engage the gear. If I push it, it grinds a little. I plan to hit up a pull a part this weekend and am going to try and only get what I need. Just I'm case they require me to buy the whole gearbox, does anyone have any tips or tricks I can do to remove it? Its gonna be a one man job, and the yard is about an hour and a half away, so if anyone can lend advice and what tools I will need to bring to remove it is greatly appreciated.
  15. 1993 Mazda GE 626 Hatchback. 2.5L V6, 5 speed manual, no leaks, runs very well, gearbox changes gears great and there is no crunching. Full options, cruise control, climate control, electric windows, electric mirrors, electric 3 way sunroof. 315,000 km's on the clock. Alloy wheels, good tyres, new battery and a few other bits under the bonnet. Sony Xplod CD/MP3 player with speakers. No reg/RWC, but confident that it will need minimal time and work to pass an inspection. BAD POINTS: Clutch needs adjustment, still drives very well but it just feels a bit loose. Few scratches and dents around the car, still presents well though. Slight rip in the driver's seat, nothing to affect it passing a RWC. Located in Werribee VIC 3030. $1,000 ONO. 0413 103 425 - Joel.
  16. Hey all just figured I'd join up here. Sold my 92 Eclipse GST which was my dd a few days ago to get a buddy's co-worker's s10 that I've been after for about a month. Sold my car and found out he had sold the s10 a couple days before and I didnt know about it. Was pretty bummed out since I put a lot of work into making the eclipse nice and it was a great daily driver. Anyway so I was out a DD so went on the hunt on craigslist. Found a 626 by accident just because it was near the top just posted yesterday. Debated on it for awhile between it and a ranger since I really wanted a small truck for hauling my scooter & bike to university and back home. Decided to check out the 626 first today. Fell in love with it. It's probably about the most boring car I've ever owned but yet I really enjoy driving it. Ridiculously smooth riding and runs amazing as well. 137k miles on it - bought it from the original owner for $1200. He kept track of all maintenance ever done on it. Recent things include a full timing job/all belts/water pump and all new brakes/rotors and a distributor. Aside from your typical paint chips/scuffs it looks pretty good. Interior is near mint condition except for the sunvisor cloth becoming tacky. Nothing wrong with it at all aside from a couple of the lights on the gauge cluster being burned out which I'll be replacing. It's a 1997 Mazda 626 DX 2.0 5speed. Completely base optioned excluding aftermarket cruise control he had installed at the dealer after he bought it. It looks factory and works fantastic. A/C and Heat both work awesome. Stereo for being factory surprises me how good it is. I really love this car, it's going to make a great college car especially for my commutes from home and back on the weekends (total of 6 hours). + I really feel like I got an awesome deal on it too. Here's a couple pictures I took after getting it home, still actually needs washed. My other vehicles: 08 ZZR 600 07 Honda Ruckus
  17. Hey, this is my first thread! Actually first forum I've joined a forum. I love it! I am gaining knowledge from here on a daily basis. I own a 99 626 lx manual. It is my first car and I love it I have some work to do on this car: New clutch set, new brake set, interior has to be clean and I will attempt to remove some rust. It's my daily driver so I won't do much mods to it. But yes, I just wanted to introduce myself!
  18. Hi guys if anybody is interested in Mazda 626 1987 factory Workshop Manual, you can download it here: http://depositfiles....lders/SKVAM8Z92
  19. im kinda new to mazda i had a 99 626 auto 4 banger. now i have 99 mazda 626 es with the 6 and a manual in it. i wanna know when im doing 75 mph should i be at like 3800 or so rpms.. it just dont seem right to me