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Found 7 results

  1. Hi, Apologies if this is the incorrect forum, I wasn't sure if it should be here or under other 626s. I have a Japanese import 1998 Capella which has had some idling issues, initially resulting in it occasionally cutting out while coasting up to an intersection once the car had just got up to temperature. A week ago this problem became more serious as the engine would stop any time the RPM dropped towards idle speed. Thanks to some great posts on this forum I had a crack at cleaning the IAC, which initially didn't seem to make any difference. I then noticed the pipe from the air intake to the air filter had a large split in it; I taped this up and that didn't seem to make any difference either. However the following day, and since, the car has run as normal. I don't know whether it was something that took a while to re-calibrate or what, but I'm happy enough (have since replaced the split pipe). Most of the references to the IAC also refer to the MAF, so I thought I might as well clean that as well. However, mine appears to be a little different from all the tutorials and videos I can find, which involve removing two screws to get the sensor out. My MAF looks to have some kind of lid with some small plastic clip-type things holding it on. I tried removing this, broke the first one and still had no movement from the "lid", so stopped and came here. I've attached a photo, let me know if it is not clear enough. Searching the internet for "fp39 maf" finds a lot of places to buy similar units, but no real useful information (to me). I'm wondering if anyone knows if this particular unit is cleanable in any way? And whether I may have caused myself any extra problems by breaking off the clip? Thanks for reading and I appreciate any help. carl
  2. Hello to everybody on this page!! New here, and plan on being here awhile :) Anyway, yesterday I was doing some general maintenance on the 1999 2.0 LX I picked up for 1000 bucks. Noticed that the housing for the air filter, and housing for the Mass Air Flow sensor were not connected by screws or bolts whatsoever. I see there is one hole in each corner, so I know it calls for them. Was just wondering if anybody knew the exact size of these bolts or screws so that I can replace them. Also, should there be some kind of seal between the two? Cannot find anything in the Haynes manual. Thank you very much in advance.
  3. So, first off, these forums are great! I went from a complete novice to maybe an intermediate level shade tree mechanic in the few years I have owned my car with the help of all the threads I have read on here. I recently have done this work (in case it might be relevant) New: radiator radiator cap throttle body gasket rerouted VRIS system outside of the intake manifold fuel pump fuel filter timing belt with pulleys and tensioner cam seals valve cover gaskets Used(pulled from junkyard): fuel rails (with injectors) - since I stripped the banjo bolt on my old rail. fuel pressure regulator - tested the diaphragm and it's good. alternator My car has been running great except for an occasional longer starting time, which I attributed to either a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure. Also, the car seems to be louder than normal - not really a hissing noise. Lately, I'm thinking it may be a vacuum leak since I replaced/tested everything in the fuel system except for the actual fuel pressure - which I may get to someday. I tried blipping the starter 4-5 times to see if maybe the system isn't pressurizing enough and it hasn't made a difference in my occasional long start time, I also have tested the relays fuel system relays. I am at a loss why my car seems to be louder, with an elevated fuel trim while idle is great (~650 rpm) and the car runs without a hiccup other than an intermittent long start. Some thoughts I have from searching around - 1. I rerouted the VRIS system with a silicone vacuum hose line [5/8in]. And from searching around, I have heard that aftermarket hoses can be louder (thinner hose thickness). Has anyone heard of this or have experience with it being loud? I am completely skeptical about this but I have no background to say otherwise. 2. In previous threads, I got the impression that the throttle position % at idle should be close to 0. Mine seems to be around 8-12% and the fuel trim values still seem high (jump to 15 while driving sometimes on both bank 1 and 2). I have cleaned the EGR and throttle plate previously. 3. The MAF I sprayed with brake cleaner even though it didn't look dirty, however I noticed the air intake values (g/s) seemed low. Could a bad MAF cause part of the issue if it is artificially low? I have noticed when I am above ~2500 rpm I seem to be in range of a good MAF g/s reading of ~26-29 g/s but anything below about 2000 rpms is fairly low (below).
  4. Here are some basic procedures for testing your 2.0L automatic Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor. http://youtu.be/u-9V2VK9wVk
  5. Hey guys, firstly i would like to thank all you guys who actually respond to these kinds of question and chip in your "two cents" in to it. MUCH OBLIGED! Had two CEL codes. 421, and another one that said something about the purge control. It used to idle really bad in Drive and reverse but it had a pretty decent idle in neutral. Also had horrible idle when the AC was on. i tried pretty much everything i could find on these forums. Here is what i've done so far Check for all vacuum leaks, Replaced: PCV and Both O2 Sensors, took off a purge solenoid off a junkyard. Clean; MAF, Throttle Body, EGR (Replaced the gaskets as well) Flushed the coolant and put new coolant in. Reset the Computer SeaFoamed the car into the brake booster. Spark Plugs have been gaped. (not professionally) And maybe something else that i don't remember at 11pm Another possible problem is i went to a proper mechanic and he said i need a new cat for the back. I think its the one after precat. He said it clogged up and is colder than the one closer to engine by 50F. All of the parts were filthy and now the car works significantly better. Better acceleration and the car struggles less, however, still had pretty rough idle and the rpms dropped sometimes when car was warm. the first time i cleaned out the AIC i had to give it a little bit of gas to get the car going but then it worked ok but still idled pretty low at around 500 or so. Today i flushed the coolant and remembered i didn't do the AIC Properly (i took apart the spring and didn't put it back so it was snug in there.) So i took off the AIC put the spring in it so it is snug, (took of the negative terminal on the batter and pressed brake 40 seconds to reset computer) Now i have to give the car gas so it starts everytime. The car has incredibly low idle at around 500, at this point power steering isn't doing its job either, and when i crank up the heater all the way it drops even lower. ANY IDEAS? Thinking of going to junkyard and getting a new IAC (Plunger part). But i'm getting OK resistance though. I'm getting 9.0, it is supposed to be 7-9.3. This is all done on a 1998 Mazda 626 2.0L with Automatic transmission with around 160k miles on it.
  6. I have a 96 626 2.0, i recently replaced the water pump, now the car has a rough idle and lags when i accelerate. Timing belt was marked prior to installation, so it shouldnt be the issue. When I put it in gear and hit the gas the car just lags like it doesnt have any power, once I come to a stop or am in traffic, the car will sputter and idle will drop very low and it sometimes stalls. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  7. 1998 Missfire

    I have a 98 626 with an ongoing problem that is driving me (no pun intended) nuts. It a 2 liter, 5 speed that has 200,000 miles (not 'k') on it that has been the best car ever that I've had. The only thing that I've ever had to replace is a 1/2 shaft due to a torn boot. I can't get rid of a misfire that I've had for a couple of years. I've replaced the plugs, the plug wires, the fuel filter, the coil pack. I've tried various fuel conditioners and higher octane gas all of which has very short term improvement. I 've he engine sputters at low rpm's when I step on the gas. If I let off the gas and then rev it again it is usually fine. It runs fine at higher rpm's unless I push on the gas too hard. I've read a lot lately that it may be the mass air flow sensor that needs to be cleaned but I'm not sure. Does anyone have ideas? Thanks in advance, Adrian