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Found 7 results

  1. Thanks in advance for any and all ideas! I have a 1999 626 I4 2.0L manual transmission with about 135000 miles. Recently, it was having a tough time starting, and could only start with the accelerator pedal pressed somewhat. I took it into the shop, and the mechanic found a vacuum leak, and replaced the intake manifold gasket. He mentioned that the IAC may need to be replaced too, and said it would idle a bit low until the computer readjusted. Over the next couple weeks, it drove somewhat okay but with low idle, and the engine would sometimes stall at a stop with the AC turned on. Suspecting the IAC, I bought a new cheapo replacement off of Amazon. The IAC has a metal manifold side, and a solenoid side. The manifold side is difficult to remove from the throttle housing body, so I just removed the torx screws holding the two parts together, and put the new solenoid + plunger on the old manifold. With the new solenoid on, I started the car. The engine surges to 4000 rpm for about 10 seconds and then hunts between 1200 and 1500 back and forth every couple seconds or so. I let the car run like this stationary for about 15 minutes hoping the computer would relearn the new IAC, but no luck. Here's the weird part. I put the old IAC solenoid back on, and got the same engine surge followed by idle hunting. If I unplug the IAC, the car drives mostly fine after I warm it up with some foot on the gas; otherwise it would idle around 500. I took the car back to the mechanic and he checked that there is no other vacuum leak, and reset the ECU several times, but it makes no difference. The mechanic suggested replacing the entire throttle body, but that seems like a lot of work just based on a hunch. I read that I may need to reset the ECU's IAC settings by removing the IAC connector and TPS connector, turning the car to ON for 30 seconds then OFF, then plugging the connectors back in. I tried this with no effect. Anyone have any ideas on what to try next? Thanks!
  2. Want to replace Torx screw as its a pain and worn out and will be removing Phillips screws for first time. Need to have replacement bolt/screws for these before I start job. Have seen members talk about replacing with hex or Allen heads but can't find size/length on mazda estores, here or elsewhere. Have 2001 2.0l 626 would appreciate if someone replaced these let me know. Thanks in advance. -Don
  3. I'm wondering how far open the IAC is supposed to be at idle. On my 98 626 2L it is 46% open at idle according to the PCM, and goes to 52% when I turn on the AC.
  4. Greetings everyone, Hope your Thanksgivings were good. I spent my Saturday doing Preventive maintence on my 626. It took me Saturday from about 6pm to 4am sunday. Then ran into a gasket issue that morning. All day sunday was spent diagnosing and fixing the problem. Never cleaned a TB before, heck never knew I needed to do it until now. I wasn't able to pull apart my IAC. Everything seems to be working fine. Here's the story. Pulled the elbow off and found that the intake elbow had a small split down the top. You can see inside the intake manifold after taking off the TB. You can see the throttle cable circled in red. In white you see the outflow coolant tube that connects underneath the TB. In Blue you see the rest of the intake tube with the Mass Air Flow Sensor on top. (Square thing in foreground). As you can see, it looks pretty good when I pulled out the elbow. I have positioned it as I found it with my hand holding the IAC. Yes, it is underneath. I have circled the Intake Manifold opening in red in the back ground, for easy visual for everyone. Mind you, my 626 is a 98 v6 LX. Not everyone's will be the same as what I have found. Hopefully this will be an easy guide. Now I have flipped the TB around and get a load of that mess. Anyway, I still have the Inake in the background. Here is a clear visual of the TB with the front facing up. That is my IAC. That was a problem. That thing was too tight. I couldn't get it off, so I left it. By the time it needs a real cleaning I should be in the market for a new TB and IAC anyway. So right now I'm not worried about cleaning it. TB upsidedown. IAC on top. Due to copyright concerns I have left out the TB cleaner. CAC TB cleaner from Auto Zone as DjDevon suggested in his post and Videos. A simple old toothbrush and some rags. Thanks DJ, Worked great. Almost done. Inflow coolant tube is circled in red, Outflow coolant is in blue. IAC Xed in green. Notice the Gasket that lines the TB. I pulled some off, but decided to keep it on until I am finished cleaning so as not to get cleaner on the edge faces. If your gasket doesn't fall off, get some gasket remover but don't over use. Like I said, don't jeopardize the selant integrity of your new gasket. I got a metal gasket from AutoZone and here is what I got: A damned Victor Reinz. Take a look at the shape. I put it on the TB and got Idle problems. When warmed up the car fluctuated around 600 to 750rpm's. Reviewed posts and narrowed it down to the gasket. The bottom of the metal gasket was allowing air in underneath. As you can see in this photo, there is a bubble edge at the bottom that was not compressed when I put the TB back together. Pulled it apart and used a Rubber-Fiber Sheet From Felpro and made my own. Works great! Thanks everyone for help in a Successful Prevetive Maintenence Operation. Oh, BTW, I wrapped Electrical tape around the end of the Intake elbow before putting it back on. Works fine but it won't be on for long. Still planning on the VCG replacement and bought a new elbow to replace. List of tools are pretty basic: Philips and Crossthread Screwdrivers are useful to an extent TB Cleaner Toothbrush with all old Toothpaste cleaned out, or buy a new one. Your preference. Rags Be sure to shop for YOUR proper gasket Needle Nose or angled neck Needle Nose Pliers Medium ratchet or angle neck wrenches. Medium torque wrench. My Chilton Manual says 14-19lbs for my car. Be sure to check proper torques for your vehicle. Small knife or Exacto Blades are nice to have. and the roll of Felpro Rubber-FIber sheet just in case. They don't make IAC gaskets so you may need it anyway. Any Questions please hollar. I am always checking posts. Thanks everyone, Moderators to members, your posts and videos are a great help!
  5. Ok, basics first. I'm not new to Mazda's, as I have owned two 85 626 2.0 carbed automatics, a 91 626 2.2 DX 5-speed, 92 Prot
  6. My car recently started sputtering (hesitating, bucking) on occasion when I accelerate from a full stop. Additionally, it occasionally seems to temporarily lose speed when driving at a constant high speed. Right now these are merely annoying, but I fear long term effects. Check engine light has been on since I've owned it (Mech said its Cat Converter and another mentioned the IAC). At first, my car seemed to have plenty of power and though my idle RPM is low (500-600) it doesn't stall. So i asked some people and they said don't worry until I lose power or experience a stall. So here I am. The engine had a major vibration problem... all the mounts have been replaced so its better, but it vibrates when stopped with the A/C on (no prob w/ A/C off). Also, at about 71+ mph I notice a kind of cyclic pattern of vibrations coming through the steering wheel and the gas pedal. The vibrations come in 1-1/2 second intervals about a 1-1/2 seconds apart from each other. Just got wheels aligned, so I think its coming from the engine somewhere. I've done some basic research and the internets tells me that a bad TPS, a bad MAF, a bad IAC, a bad cat converter, or a bad oxygen sensor can all produce most of these symptoms. IACs are expensive, I have no idea what a TPS or MAF is or where it is, but I am comfortable with replacing the cat converter (not sure about the O2 sensor). Thus, I want to replace the cat, but is that actually the problem? In my mind, it could be the IAC blocking some intake (just a guess), or it could be the Cat blocking the output and backing it up, or it could be (one of?) the O2 sensor(s) throwing all the proportions out of whack. Are any of these ideas easily eliminated? Are any of these easily verified? I also noticed that the sputtering on acceleration came two days after my battery died and I replaced it; could it be that some computer/sensor somewhere got out of whack when it lost power for a while? I'm gonna poke around and get autozone to pull the codes in the morning, but I figured I'd vent a little of this overwhelmed feeling before I went to bed and hope for an angel in the night ;-)
  7. I tried searching all over the forum about the IAC for a specific question, but it's gonna take forever going through all these posts and I probably won't find the answer. The question is why are there coolant flowing through the IAC? I've read somewhere about warming up the IAC for engine performance but exactly how does that work and want to clarify it?
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