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Found 3 results

  1. Thanks in advance for any and all ideas! I have a 1999 626 I4 2.0L manual transmission with about 135000 miles. Recently, it was having a tough time starting, and could only start with the accelerator pedal pressed somewhat. I took it into the shop, and the mechanic found a vacuum leak, and replaced the intake manifold gasket. He mentioned that the IAC may need to be replaced too, and said it would idle a bit low until the computer readjusted. Over the next couple weeks, it drove somewhat okay but with low idle, and the engine would sometimes stall at a stop with the AC turned on. Suspecting the IAC, I bought a new cheapo replacement off of Amazon. The IAC has a metal manifold side, and a solenoid side. The manifold side is difficult to remove from the throttle housing body, so I just removed the torx screws holding the two parts together, and put the new solenoid + plunger on the old manifold. With the new solenoid on, I started the car. The engine surges to 4000 rpm for about 10 seconds and then hunts between 1200 and 1500 back and forth every couple seconds or so. I let the car run like this stationary for about 15 minutes hoping the computer would relearn the new IAC, but no luck. Here's the weird part. I put the old IAC solenoid back on, and got the same engine surge followed by idle hunting. If I unplug the IAC, the car drives mostly fine after I warm it up with some foot on the gas; otherwise it would idle around 500. I took the car back to the mechanic and he checked that there is no other vacuum leak, and reset the ECU several times, but it makes no difference. The mechanic suggested replacing the entire throttle body, but that seems like a lot of work just based on a hunch. I read that I may need to reset the ECU's IAC settings by removing the IAC connector and TPS connector, turning the car to ON for 30 seconds then OFF, then plugging the connectors back in. I tried this with no effect. Anyone have any ideas on what to try next? Thanks!
  2. I have a 2000 Mazda 626, and it has 186,000 miles on it. I bought it from my sister roughly 2.5 years ago, and the car's had idle problems practically since I got it. Back in the summer of 2011, the idling had gotten so bad that my car would stall in traffic, at stop signs, stop lights, drive thrus, in park etc. I took it to a shop to have it tuned up and explore other possible problems, and I was informed that my spark plugs were bad and that's what was causing the stalling. After they'd replaced the spark plugs, the mechanics told me that my idler was bad and that my car would still idle but not stall out. I'm not sure if they meant my IAC valve or IAC motor was bad. In the past few months, my car's idling problems have progressed to where during times where my car idles, my RPMs fall way below 1000 and close to zero. My car shakes and sputters extremely roughly until it dies (this usually happens when I'm in park or idling for longer than a few minutes -- otherwise, it just shakes and sputters), unless I press my foot on the accelerator a bit. If my RPMs are up, my car is fine. It's just when I idle that it is so terribly awful. Also, for example, if I've been in park with my foot on the accelerator to keep the car from dying, the car stalls as soon as I take my foot off the gas to switch into reverse or drive. I do keep my foot on the accelerator whilst in park at places like the bank or otherwise stopped and in park for an period of time for longer than a minute or two. Sometimes, my car won't stall after I take my foot off the accelerator after being in park, but it still shakes and sputters as if it's about to die. Yesterday, my car died twice in traffic -- once at a stop light and the other time at a stop sign. A friend told me that my idle air control valve was probably on the fritz, so I ordered the part from AutoZone. Before I open the box and render the part unable to return, I figured I'd get some feedback from you all here on the 626 site. I'm becoming increasingly annoyed and am very ready for this problem to be fixed. The reason I didn't get it fixed before now is that I simply haven't had the money, and I'm ready now to just get it over with. I appreciate all feedback and suggestions I may get! Thank you. PS. I'm more than willing to answer anymore questions about the car if it can help narrow down possibilities. Also, I know next to nothing about cars. Forgive me if I seem ridiculous.
  3. Been having poor gas mileage and acceleration problems for the past six months. Engine codes read cylinder misfire. I have put in new spark plugs and wires. A new ignition coil, new fuel filter, cleaned the egr valve and throttle body. Checked for vacuum leaks visually and by spraying carb cleaner over the engine while it was running. Next week I will let my mechanic check the fuel injectors, fuel pressure and timing. But first I want to clean the IAC valve but I can't locate it. Could someone post a pic of the location. My mazda is a 1998 626 v6.
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