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Car

Found 15 results

  1. Hi my Mazda family, My 626 has started to burn oil but I don’t know if it is the piston rings or something else the video shows idle and then I accerlate. if there is anyone in the UK who can fix this cheap please reply back or if any tips or suggestions, anything will help I just don’t want to scrap this car. thanks for reading 6CF7F48D-A7B6-4C32-83B7-A43602045455.mov
  2. Does anyone have a guide on how to change the head gasket and time the engine for a 2000 Mazda 626 2.0 4 Cylinder 5 Speed?
  3. I have 2002 mazda 626 4 cylinder and I'm trying to find various parts,here goes: 1. First picture is of a vacuum control module ( or something, I don't know what it is) it's located on the passenger side of the intake manifold and has two electrical connectors and ports for vacuum hoses. One of my ports is broke, the car still runs, but im sure it's needed for something 2. Coolant transfer block ( 2nd pic) located on the driver side of the engine block, connects the heater hose, upper radiator hose, coolant temp sensor to the engine. 3. The screws for the valve cover, I'm missing two. Is there a searchable junkyard database I can look at? Can I buy those screws at Autozone? If so, what would the measurment be that I would need to look for. I know it needs a 10mm socket to remove. So 10mm bolts? Any help would be appreciated.
  4. just bought a 98 626. a blown head gasket. any tips while I have it this far apart?
  5. I bought a new head gasket and installed on my car, however I was getting a 30psi reading across all of my cylinders except one (90psi), so i figured my valves were leaking and they were. So I removed the head, lapped the valves and reinstalled the head. Same results, except the one that was getting 90psi, was now also at 30psi. Can a head gasket go bad after multiple head removal/installations? The car never started, so no heat cycle, I figured the gasket would be ok. I've already removed the head and installed it 3 times, should I get a new head gasket?
  6. Hello everyone I have a 1997 Mazda 626 2.0L Automatic LX I replaced my Head Gasket, redid my timing and replaced all the necessary gaskets and I now have a Crank but No Start. So Electrically, I replaced the ignition coil (I have a distributor and separate ignition coil), spark plugs, spark wires, distributor cap and rotor, and have used 2 different car batteries. Fuel wise, I have tested the fuel injectors (13.5 OHMs, which was satisfactory) and tested the fuel pressure only between the fuel filter and fuel rail. The fuel pressure was about 47-49 but only when I tried starting the car. If I turned it to the ON position, I had no fuel pressure. Although later, I could hear the Fuel Pump kick on in the ON position, but didnt have fuel pressure gauge on the fuel lines. Lastly, I was walking away for the night and heard a humming noise with the car being off. The humming was coming from the area of the Negative Battery Terminal and Engine Fuse Box, I want to say it was at 2 different places and one was the Chassis Ground. Well its been a long day working on this spoiled 626 so I wanted to see if you guys on here could help out. I appreciate any help in advance. Thanks
  7. I am replacing my head gasket and for some reason I cannot turn the crank pulley. All the belts are off and the head is off the engine block. I did forget to put it in neutral, so I just hooked the battery up and shifted it to neutral, but I cannot get the crank pulley to budge. Am I just fighting friction in the cylinder walls and need a bad ass breaker bar or what?
  8. Hello, i looked everywhere for something simmilar to my problem but i couldnt find a post, so im sorry if this is a repost. Im working on my fathers 2001 626 4cyl auto. im suspecting a blown head gasket but id like some other mechanics to validate my suspicions. The engine has 130k on it. its going through a full coolant overflow tank in a little over a week. there is some external leaks, but for the life of me i cant find exactly where the leak is comming from. where the tranny meets the block it is wet all over, top side and underneath, but nothing that appears fresh or obviously leaking, and after removing the air filter assembly i couldnt really see anything leaking out where the head gasket is. so at first i was suspecting maybe the freeze plug rusted through? however, theres really only a few drops of coolant on the ground and obviously not anywhere close to the ammount being lost. But then i took out the spark plugs and its coated in white, indicating overheating, lean, or burning coolant. its not overheating, and checking the fuel trims with OBDII it doesnt appear to be giving a lean condition. the exaust also has this.. chemical smell. cant describe it, doesnt smell like regular exaust. so my best educated guess is that the head gasket needs to be replaced. at 130k that sounds about right. what do you guys think? Thank you for the time and sorry again if this is a repost, i know how annoying that can be
  9. Hi All, Been lurking a bit, and I finally have a question for the group: I bought a 95 626 LX 2.0 w/ AT. Originally, it was sold to me cheaply due to them not wanting to fix the shift linkage cable where it came loose (yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeah, that was all, really!). As it turned out, this thing had a blown head gasket. Cylinder pressure was leaking into the coolant, big-time. I had a hose balloon and the overflow hose kept blowing off. It was painfully obvious what had to be done. I pulled the head and had it machined and checked for leaks. Top of the block was nice and smooth, and I scrubbed the crap out of it with a green scrubby pad to remove carbon-y funk. She was pretty shiny afterwards. Anywho, I replaced the head gasket, water pump, and did a new timing belt just to be thorough. I had never done a head gasket before. I NOTICED, but did not pay much attention to, the fact that the head bolts did not quite FEEL even when torquing them- Obvs, they're TTY bolts, and ONE of them actually let go a bit. None of the others did. I was using a really, really cheap & cheesy torque wrench. Again, I'd never done a head gasket, and never used TTY bolts. These are normally a bit underpowered with the AT, but this one seemed particularly bad. She'll go uphill, but she feels really weak when doing so. Not TOO bad on flat surfaces; decent acceleration. Today, though, I was doing the first oil change since the head gasket job, and I noticed that there was a fair bit of oil coming down from ABOVE the pan, and some drops of coolant. I followed the trail, and the oil, at least, is coming out on the timing belt side of the head gasket. SHIT. Nothing seems to be mixing yet, at least. What I'm thinking is this: Those bolts were pretty obviously not evenly torqued. I've only given her about 3 months, as I wanted to give her that first change a little early. My question is this: I don't WANT to rip this thing apart again if I don't HAVE to. What's the likelihood that a fresh set of bolts and a GOOD torque wrench will set this right? She's been running reliably- slightly weak, and idling a hair funny at stop lights, but pretty decently. I'm thinking pull the cams, and START the bolts 1 at a time (as in, don't pull them all at once; at least get them started in order so there's never more than one bolt out at a time). What do you think? Anyone half-assed like this before? :) I'd just like to give it a shot before I say screw it and pass it off as a trade-in. Thanks!
  10. My car overheated two days ago. I took it into a dealer. They did a pressure test and told me that I had two blown HG and it would cost $1900 for them to fix. It only has 85k miles on it. Is this normal? Should I cut my loss and be done with it? Am I being quoted too high a price? I'm not beholden to the car. Wanted you mechanic guys out there to give me some feedback.
  11. Hi. My son's car overheated recently, but the temp gauge (dashboard) did NOT register a high temp. Smoke was pouring out of engine compartment, and power was quickly diminishing. He stopped car, opened the hood, and noticed that the radiator hose (from top of radiator to thermostat housing) was collapsed. We pulled the head off, and saw that the gasket was blown in cylinders 2 & 3. We had the head rebuilt, flushed out the cooling system, and replaced the head---also replaced most of the gaskets in the process. Oh, and when we were cleaning out the intake manifold, the vacuum lines were almost completely blocked with brown, grainy gunk! We sprayed in cleaner, and blew them all out at the car wash. Also thoroughly cleaned the EGR control valve, which was similiarly gunked. Couldn't order a new one, even from dealer--"discontinued". Diaphram that controls the valve moves freely now. We tested compression, which was about 90 on all cylinders, which seems low---but we didn't want to replace piston rings and hone cylinder walls. The car has 350k miles on it. Put it back together, and it purrs like a kitten! But after driving the car for about 10 minutes, he checked that hose and saw that it was collapsing again. Is this just a sticking thermostat? (We did replace thermostat with a new one when we rebuilt the head.) But why would it be happening after the car is up to full temp? And why did the temp gauge NOT register the overheating when the head gasket was being blown??? We wondered if the temp gauges (are there 3?) are averaging their readings. He has replaced the temp sensor on the bottom of the radiator a couple years ago. Help from anyone who has had similar problems would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you!
  12. Hi there!!! I am replacing the head gasket, but i'm having trouble to get the timing chain in place. I have removed the head and everything, just have to get the timing chain done. It is a Mazda 626 1981 Auto. Could someone please help me??? How can i adjust the Tension of the timing chain as well, because i don't know how to and having trouble with it
  13. Are there any how-to's for replacing a head gasket in the 2001 LX-V6? I have ordered the head gaskets, but would like to have some help going into this.
  14. I am selling a few new parts for the 2.0 4cly engine. I MAY PART OUT THE WHOLE CAR SO DONT BE AFRAID TO ASK i have a head gasket kit still in its origional plastic sealed, with all the gaskets and seals needeed to do the job. I also have brand new head bolts still in the box. Pending I also am selling a brand new master cylender. I have a used fuel rail too. any questions or anything feel free to ask. and i can post pics if anyone wants them. make me offers....im willing to work something out with pricing....i just want to get rid of them. thanks for looking
  15. I was hoping someone could clear up something for me - a few weeks ago, my temp guage went just over the halfway mark, and the water in my overflow tank would bubble up and come out. I opened the radiator filler neck a while after i got home that day, and the radiator was bone dry. Topped it up with about a gallon of water, and drove it, and it dried up after 10 miles. The next morning ran the car - no visible leaks in the engine bay, however, the water was dripping from the exhaust. There were no white clouds of smoke or anything, just a drip from the exhaust during idle, this was not just in the morning and continued for as long as the car was on. I did not use the car.. My mechanics had told me I would need a head gasket replacement. They did it, got it back, and the coolant loss is no more My questions (concerned as it was costly and was repaired fairly quick, and I don't notice too much evidence of heads having been removed) 1) Is it possible that the car did not need a head gasket replacement and there was another way for the coolant to escape into the exhaust (my model does not use an egr system) 2) If it was in fact a head gasket leak is it possible that there was a quick fix radiator additive to stop the leakage into the cylinders as I was told not to change whatever is in the radiator and replace it with coolant Please help. Thanks
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