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Found 18 results

  1. I own a 97 Mazda 626 2.0L and I don't know why it won't stop misfiring in cylinder 4. It only misfires after its been driven for some time. If it sits for a while it's starts up normal, but eventually starts misfiring. I have checked the plugs and wires with a multimeter and changed the distributor cap and rotor. I had a feeling it could be the fuel pressure regulator, but that isn't leaking any gas out of it. What could the problem be? The next thing I'm going to do is check the compression and check the injectors. What should I check for in the injectors? Any info right now would be great cause I have no clue what it could be. Thanks, Robert
  2. I own a 97 Mazda 626 2.0L and I don't know why it won't stop misfiring in cylinder 4. It only misfires after its been driven for some time. If it sits for a while it's starts up normal, but eventually starts misfiring. I have checked the plugs and wires with a multimeter and changed the distributor cap and rotor. I had a feeling it could be the fuel pressure regulator, but that isn't leaking any gas out of it. What could the problem be? The next thing I'm going to do is check the compression and check the injectors. What should I check for in the injectors? Any info right now would be great cause I have no clue what it could be. Thanks, Robert
  3. New to 626.net. My sons 99 626 2.0L is proving to be a challenge again. He was driving it then stalled it. Ever since it wont start. It has a strong odor of fuel. I have verified it does have spark on all cylinders. All plugs have unburnt fuel. Battery is fully charged. Pulled starter off hooked it to the battery tested the selonoid and the motor both appear to be functioning properly. Will not start with starting fluid. I have pulled and verified all fuses are intact. Car was running fine except had a tapping noise especially at higher rpm mainly in 2nd and 3rd gear. When trying to start while on jack stands right front tire spins a little unless the clutch is pushed in. This is a ATX to MTX conversion running off a ATX PCM and Wiring harness. The only codes its throwing are for the ATX which its been doing since day one. The neutral safety switch isnt hooked up and never has been the wires just aren't there and it has run fine for the last year and a half. Oil was changed not long ago. Same with antifreeze. Car has been in the garage 24 hours so its not a frozen fuel line. Im at a loss whats next? Thanks in advance I appreciate all the knowledge forums have been providing!
  4. Mazda 626, automatic. 1999. Randomly wont start when cold. Not super cold just colder, like 30 degrees. did it the other day. one time it made a swooshing sound in the back, I guess fuel pump, and then it started. Question is could it be the fuel pump? acting randomly like that. didn't really have any trouble all summer until the other day. I changed the fuel filter today, had never been changed, 145K miles on car. It was partially stopped up. Just wondering if I should change pump too. I haven't started it yet. Like I say, you just never know when it will act up. its not very often, but it does. Then later it will start fine. thanks
  5. What is the best method to go about releasing fuel pressure on the system on a naturally aspirated 1988 Mazda 626 Base sedan? The Haynes manual points it out for the 1986-1987 but states the preocess is different for 1988 and does not give any instructions. Any input is much appreciated! -Luke
  6. I’m having some issues with the mid/upper rpm range power output on my vehicles. It struggles and feels like its not getting enough fuel to work efficiently. It also has shudders in power across any rpm above 2500. (1988 Mazda 626 2.2L N/a I4) What might this be? (Injectors, Clogged fuel filters, etc) And how might I diagnose the issue?Thanks for any input!
  7. Hey, I'm back with more problems. So a few days ago I was driving around when all of a sudden my car started to misfire really bad at a red light. No rhyme or reason to it. I thought what then hell, slipped it into neutral, revved it a few times, and it went away. I thought nothing of it because my o2 sensor and coil pack needed replaced. I got home turned off the car. From there later that day I went to start it and same problem, same solution but this time it took a few more revs to go. This went on for a few days with my coil pack and o2 sensors on there way in. So I woke up this morning and went to start my car to drive to work and nothing. The car's auto starter just kept going and nothing. I tried it in the heat of my garage around 66 F. Same resalt. My coil pack and o2 sensors came in. I installed them and same thing happened. I then went to advacned and picked up 6 new plugs and installed them. Again the auto starter just kept going. So I have come to the concultion that it is a fuel problem. So here's what I think (the self taught, middle of the garage parts everywhere DIY guy) I think that since I have never replaced or even looked at my fuel filter and the car is at around 126,000 miles. I think that there is a clog somewhere in the lines. I don't know where. One of my friends suggested the fuel rail. But at this point I am clue less. I am pretty good at electronics but the fuel part not so much. I tried a few things before I called it a night to rule out a few things. Fuel Pump is good. My friend and I heard it priming when the car was turned on. Injectors are good. I just replaced them around 4 months ago. Also IT MIGHT NOT BE FUEL. This is just something that my friend and I believe is the problem. If you think it is something different them let me know and I will diagnose it as soon as I can. If you need pictures or more info, just ask. Thanks in advance.
  8. Hello. Ive Mazda 626, 1995, 2.0L petrol. My problem looks like this: - If engine is cold works very well. Sales 1500-2000. But when is heat, after 10min engine is off. Prolly problem is in ECU but NOBODY can help me. I visited many ppl and they cant connect into computer. I lost my hope. Sorry for my english but im from Poland and maybe here i find a answer. So please tell me. There is any possible to reset cpu or manually check error code? What is wrong with this engine? NEW: and
  9. I was replacing a fuel injector in my girlfriends 2001 626 V6 (was misfiring) and when taking off the fuel rail I lost the fuel rail spacer cushion. Any one have a part number list/replacement part/or idea of something else to use there instead. Also I am now getting some slight hesitation when releasing the gas pedal, not a forceful jerking but slight hesitation I was thinking like IAC or MAF. As I am typing this she called and said she smelt gas in her car :'( so now I am thinking gas leak, also is there supposed to be a gasket/ o ring at the base of the fuel rail leading to intake manifold? If so that would maybe explain the leak. I recently replaced the spark plugs, oil dipstick, valve cover gasket, oil pressure switch, cylinder one fuel injector, throttle body gasket, pcv grommet, intake manifold gasket, banjo bolt (leading to the fuel rail broke when installing next to pressure regulator). She has had the car for about 2 years and she says it now runs better than she has ever seen it, so I am happy with the work and saving all the money I would have spent at a mechanic. First post and first car i have worked on, I have read a lot on the forum to learn about fixing this car. I want to say thanks to all the forum members you have been a great help! Especially Dj for all your great youtube vids. Attached a pic of the cushion.
  10. I'm trying to find a fuel vapor canister (black cylindrical canister). At least that's what i think it is, it has a vacuum hose that goes to the intake manifold. I can't seem to find the part that looks like mine on rockauto.com: So I'm wondering if my part is the wrong part, like maybe the owner before me swapped it out for something that kinda, sorta worked. If anybody can provide a link where i can order this part that would be awesome, if its the right one. The vapor canister on rockauto and everywhere else is rectangle shaped. Any help? Thanks.
  11. I have a 1998 4cyl that has really poor acceleration particularly at low RPM's. The problem has progressively gotten worse. It is to the point that the car does not have enough power to start moving from a start if it is even slightly uphill. It feels like the engine just bogs down when you try to get the car start moving. It seems to operate a lot better once you get to 2500-2700 RPM and accelerates fine from a passing gear. The car sometimes is hard to start, but once it starts seems to idle fine, however, it has recently started to idle erratically. If you press firmly on the throttle in park, the engine seems to bog down and sometime dies. The check engine light is not lit. This is what I have tried: checked for codes, only found one for second oxygen sensor which i found to be unplugged Replaced spark plugs Checked coilpack, tests within specs removed catalytic converter and inspected, it is clean not clogged air filter is clean inspected the timing belt and marks lined up oil is good, no antifreeze inspected MAF sensor for debris or dirty, it is clean. Things i havent checked: Fuel pressure any ideas? is this a common problem? any help is greatly appreciated
  12. hey guys, been awhile since i've needed advice from here, but seems every winter my car likes to act up. went out to start my car and it started fine, ran for about 5 seconds then kinda fizzled out like it was out of gas (the gauge said empty). so i put a gallon gas in so i could get to the station, and it still won't start. still sounded like it had no gas, so i sprayed some ether and it had no reaction as if i didn't spray anything at all. checked the codes and got 4 long flashes a long pause then one short flash and that would just repeat, but im not sure what that means. haven't had a chance to spark test, but the spark plugs are only a few months old, same for the wires, and timing belt is less than year old.
  13. Hello, I've been lurking for a little over a month now, since about the time i bought my 626. I got a 2000 626 ES with about 87K miles. I love this car, its such an upgrade from the 96 sentra i bought for 600 right after high school. This car runs great and was well taken care of by the previous owner. Theres of course some interesting quirks, like getting hit in the face with bits of foam (found out where that was coming from already). So farI have a couple questions, and have searched the forums before registering to ask them. What O2 sensor would you recommend for the one that plugs into the exhaust manifold on the front of the engine? I have a CEL on and have replaced the sensor with a Bosch brand one from rock auto. It shows some voltage but never gets above about a .2, then once the cars warmed up doesn't do anything. I thought maybe a bad connector and messed with it to make sure theres good connection. Maybe a different brand would be recommended. Luckily its easy to reach. Is there a way to increase the lifting power of the trunk? When i click the remote open, often times the trunk clicks but doesn't have the strength to lift at all, so the solenoid just closes and locks it again, big pain with full hands. With the v6, would you recommend i use premium fuel? The 93 octane is about $0.50 more per gallon, and i want to know if you've encountered a significant increase in fuel economy. I currently get on average 24mpg, and thats mixed highway and city driving on my commute in the Chicago suburbs. Id imagine with a working o2 sensor that might increase a little, but i have my doubts how much better my engine performance would be with premium fuel. Also, using the regular 87 octane, i haven't had any engine knocking. Also, have any of you had problems with leaking mirror fluid? I know mirror fluid sounds like a joke, but i have an auto dimming mirror that the specialized fluid leaked out partially and i found online that lots of bad things can happen, like having holes eaten through the dash. I have the mirror that has temp and cardinal direction, and had to take it out and replace it temporarily with an el cheapo mirror from Walmart until i figure out what to do to get my nice one fixed.
  14. Could use some help please. I just bought a 93' 626 - with a 2.5 v6.- Auto trans - 85k miles - sat for 8 months - Hawaii moist area/s. Discovered that the fuel tank and the lines have water and old fuel. I want to drop the tank, clean out tank, clean fuel pump and test, blow out lines and reassemble. I have read some forums saying there is no electric fuel pump - some say yes - what is it? where is it in the tank? Can anyone, due to my remote rural location from a city and auto parts store, please provide me with a fuel system (hoses) diagram? So I know what to look for - remove and clean. I have already removed one line from the bottom of the carb and brownish condensated fuel drained (SEE PIC BELOW - Screwdriver points to line and next to line is where it attached to carb) I am not sure if this is a return line or exactly what it does. Important: I also do not see (due to tight spaces) where the inbound fuel lines connect to the carb, there is a lot going on down there. I say carb because I am not sure if it is injected or a carb system. It looks strange to me like in between both designs. Any pointers on fuel line flushing would deeply be appreciated along with anything else you can think of. Also if anyone has any video links please paste. I can do the work, I just want to do it right so I don't have to drop this dam tank again for something I might miss. Thanks in advance for any of your reply's! Boda
  15. Hello All, I am new to this forum, this is my first post. I searched fuel emission evaporative systems but did not find a specific forum for it so I am starting one. Sorry if it does exist somewhere, please point me to the right direction. I have had a 1991 626 4 door sedan for the past 12 years that I inherited from my girl friend (we've probably put +130K mils); she drives my 2003 Protegée but I've always liked better the 626 which has a 2.2L 4 cyl engine. It has better torque, drives better in the snow and has a better traction and just think it has better lines than the new mazdas... We've had the car in Seattle, Michigan, DC, Ohio and now we just moved to California... The car runs GREAT, I can drive 85 mph on the highway and the car is solid. I've had my time belt replaced twice, it has 254000 miles on it and still is a solid car and has NEVER failed on me. As some of you know we need a "smog test" here. I took it to the shop and they told me that the emissions PAST however there was a major Failure on the Test due to a fuel emission problem so overall the car FAILED the smog test ($68.00) They suggested to bring the car back for a diagnosis which after $125.00 more was: "Perform complete smoke check of evaporative system. Found numerous leaks in the metal lines from fuel tank to engine compartment. The lines are rusted through. The entire undercarriage is severely rusted. Tested another portion of the evaporative system and found it to be blocked behind the firewall, suspect rust to have intruded into line creating blockage. Found fuel tank filler tube and metal fuel delivery tubes to also be severely corroded..." 1. Is this really the end of this great machine even though it still runs great? I get between 26 to 35 mpg! 2. If it might be worth fixing it, can any of those lines be replaced with younger models? or for example from Toyotas that look just the same as my 626? Thoughts any one? Thank you very much on any feed back; it's great to find a site on 626!
  16. Hi everyone, Just bought this car yesterday from a friend who wanted to sell this car and I bought from him since he is trustworthy. But it is NOT. Anyway... Car details : Mazda 2002 lx 4 cylinder. Odometer: 140000 5 mins after I bought the car and I had done about 5 miles, 'Check engine light' came up. I was in a highway but had to cover another 25 miles. Somehow did it and checked with PepBoys (they had free check engine light promotion) and found that the code is P0421. Googled a bit and got little knowledge. One of my local dealer had a free inspection offer, so I went and showed. He said it is catalytic converter needs to ber replaced, blah blah blah etc. Found cost very high. Apart from this vehicle has other issues such as shocks, bearning, front vehicle mount (all told by the dealer mechnic but I got confirmed with another local mechanic). The reason I bought was to use about 5 miles everyday and around 40-50 miles over weekend. I am now confursed whether I should repair or just use it till it dies. Can someone suggest if I I can use it as it is for few more months? What are the cons with using as it is? Also how to remove this 'engine light' ON. Are there any tools or tricks? Sometimes I think of buying another vehicle by trading in this with dealers. What you guys think? If I want to repair that what are the typical expenses? Googling catalytic converter shows lot of varying prices (starting from 100$ but dealer quotes 600$+) and I am confused where to buy? I stay in NJ (northern NJ) and are there any good / economical mechnics or repair shops? I dont' want to spend much as I already paid 1500$ for the car. This is my first car and I have very little knowledge about the issues, where to buy the parts, how to look for best parts/pricing, where to repair etc. Please suggest.
  17. I have a 98 mazda 626 with a 2.5l v6 engine, just put a new engine in the car and when you turn it over it cranks, but has no fuel, hooked up pressure gauge and read 0 when cranking, so i jumped the fuel relay and its reading 55-70psi when jumping the relay, crank/cam sensors are fine, knock sensor is fine i think, have to check it tomorrow to make positive, any ideas on what else would cut the fuel off when cranking?? any idea's would help, just getting lost at the moment. thanks :)
  18. So i was driving my car down the road, when i started hearing a bit of a ticking, slowed down to pull over, and once it got down to about 30mph? the car just died on me, once pulled over it would not start, now i went through quite a few things, and found that the fuel pump was not turning on, after pulling the fuel pump itself, i tested it, and when hooked directly to a battery, it engages with no problem, so i hooked the fuel pump up to the wiring without anything else, and it does nothing when the key is kicked forward, or even when i try to turn it over. So: fuel pump works outside of car, but not when hooked up. P.s checked relay's and fuses, look and sound fine. any ideas? kinda lost now.
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