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Found 22 results

  1. electrical

    HELP! I have been a ghost user on this because of all the advice or steps from others' on here. but finally I have come across something that Im not too sure of. Im now starting to take some pride in learning how to just do things myself when it comes to cars. Anyways, about a month ago I was driving and my heater kicks off, then my break warning light comes on, and I get a burning smell, as Im trying to find a place to park I noticed my headlights were on but my headlight switch was not in the "on" position. My first thing was to just check fuses, didn't see anything. Turned off the car for about 10 minutes or so and when I turned it back on it seemed to be normal, everything was at least working that way. So I decide to just cut my journey short and head home, as Im at a stop light my car turns completely off and wouldn't start but everything in the dash was still lit. Finally getting it home (tow) I started to speculate that it was the headlight combo switch. but then got confused because my windshield wipers weren't working correctly a couple days before. They just started going at full speed when I was driving. as of today 01/15/17 I am about to change the fuel pump. My battery was drained so I took it to auto zone to get it charged Im just wondering whats draining it and kind of what are your opinions or if one of you guys experienced the same issue. please help guys, I need it!
  2. 1997 mazda 626

    How does the electrical connector at fuel pump come off
  3. Okay, so i beg you read this. its been pretty crazy. so i originally made this post on Tomshardware, but now i found this AWESOME site!! read my OG post here ; (actually red it before replying please..) " LEASE READ!!! It's been a year and a half, really need help..Hi, here's my problem.Specs of car are2000 Mazda 626, LX V6Now, about a year & a half ago my father went to start the car, he was going to take it to the shop & get a new battery & see why the car kept swelling the battery up & making it so hot. So he takes the battery cables off (so he could get to the mechanic without the battery swelling up/exploding) which he's done countless times in the past, but this time when he did it, the headlights flashed, windshield wipers came on & the car Reved down until it was off. From then on it hasn't been able to start. Windshield wipers do not workTurn signals do not workCar will crank but not startFuel pump does not engage, when you out the key in, the car beeps & nothing on the dash lights up (except for door open indicator), and when you turn the key to the ON position, nothing else happens it just sits there beeping fast instead of going to the 6 beep sequence then stopping.. Fuel pump doesn't engage. Wipers don't work nor do turn signals. The car will crank but not turn over. Now, it was up until this point that me and him thought it was okay to disconnect the battery while the car was running as the alternator would take over.. After this happened I did some research and learned that the battery acts as a capacitor and limits voltage spikes. So, yeah, it was a dumb move. Any idea on what the hell happened!? Literally I've searched the Internet hundreds of times with different wording & no one else in the entire planet has ever had this happen!? I can't find ONE other person with this problem. It's like everyone is clueless. &I no we haven't taken it to the mechanic as it costs money to tow it there and be looked at.. Haven't tried a new battery, but we have tried jumping it with another car which acts as a new battery (as the engine cranks & the indoor lights are bright) so we definitely know it's not the battery. So rundown -tried disconnecting battery cables while car was running-car shut off-won't start now-dash doesn't work, can't see mileage or anything else (fuel gauge etc)-cranks, doesn't start- fuel pump makes no noise- beeping sequence stays same when key is inserted into the ignition Please help" ALSO, I THEN REPLIED TO MY OG THREAD WITH THIS COMMENT "I am beyond imagination shocked. So, the car started just an hour ago. this spanish guy (Joel) that has always wanted to buy my dads honda civic came buy and asked if he could buy it again, and my dad laughed and said his friend was borrowing it from him right now etc. so my dad asks if he knows anything about mazda's.. he says oh yeah man. so my dad explains the problem to him.. this guy opens the driver door and asks for the key, he puts the key in the ignition, turns it and it cranks were like yeah see. and so he gets on his knees, and without looking at the fuse diagram starts pulling fuses and me and my dad are looking at eachother like hm. so then the dashboard lights, headlights, windshield wipers and gauges come on - me and my dad look at each other amazed and say "thats never happened what did you do?" he goes "hold on man" he gets in the car and cranks it a couple times, the car starts and runs momentarily for about 3 seconds and dies. me and my dad look at eachother in amazement and ask him what he did, and he says "you got any gas?" without a word me and my dad run into the garage looking for a gas can and bring one to him, he pours it directly in the engine bay in the throttle thing, and he says watch this, he turns the key, the gauges and all light up and he cranks it.. the car starts. the car runs for about 10 seconds and sounds perfect. me and my dad are amazed. he says "you have a bad fuel pump". we do the gas trick a couple more times to see it run and make sure it wasnt just a dream. he says he can replace the fuel pump for us for cheap. the windshield wipers would not turn off and slight smoke did come from the cabin. he said we probably have a short in a ground-wire somewhere causing it to smoke and for the electronics to act funny and thats why the fuses were blowing. so, were going to tow the car to his house and hes gonna help us fix it. we are completely stunned. this guy hasnt showed up but twice in the last 7-8 years, and today, out of the blue, the same day me and my dad randomly decided to fix the battery connector cables and buy a new battery and fuses, he shows up. what are the chances? and he says he has the same engine in his mazda suv. what are the chances? we are so shocked. the car hasnt run in a year and a half, and randomly today we decide to mess with it. the SAME day he decides to show up and ask if he can buy the honda for the first time in at least 2 years. wow. If we didn't believe in God before, we sure as hell do now LOL" Now, the thing is, we dont really have any money to get this car to his house. i want to make SURE its the fuel pump before i make any moves here. i tested the fuel pump relay's - all check out okay. no buzzing noise can be heard coming from the fuel pump when cranking or when turning the key to the ON position.. so im assuming the fuel pump isnt even moving at all. I tried hitting the gas tank with a rubber mallot to get it to spin, some people said that can temp make it work..it didnt. (though it was hard to find an opening to hit the actual tank as it has a protector over the tank) All the dash lights etc work now (not sure about the wipers, they went crazy so i unplugged them) and no smoke comes from the cabin (where the ecu and all the wiring is..) anymore when we start it. (weve started it a couple times and ran it off gas from a bottle, just to turn the AC on and get it running since it sat for so long..still cant believe the car even starts) but there still may be a shorted wire or something who knows. i dont know how to check if power is actually getting to the fuel pump. i have a multimeter but where would i test for power? any help here is much appreciated. my dad has a new car now and was going to junk this one. I'll be 16 next month and am willing to put money into it to get it running. Thanks PS, car does have an oil leak and has had said oil leak for years.. not sure if its a common problem, just wanted to mention it. Thanks again! PSS. We have a new battery, and battery terminal connectors. Me and my dad are willing to replace the fuel pump ourselves, as my dad does have some equiptment. (requires dropping tank).. Just want to make sure its the fuel pump and not something else. if its worth it, might as well just rent a uhual dolly for like 40 bucks and tow it over to Joel's house and let him fix it for a fee.. sorry for such a long post, I just wanted to make sure i provide every detail i can. thanks, yet again. lol
  4. About a month ago my car died. It behaved as if the fuel pump had died and just cut out on the road. I couldn't start it at all. We changed the fuel pump, filter, coil, distributor cap, and rotor and it still wouldn't start. A mechanic changed the distributor itself and it started, but it would die randomly. I would pull out of the driveway, the rpms would jump and then it would die, but I could start it back up immediately. I would head down the road and the rpms would die but the car would not. They would come back up, then hit 0 again, and then die. It did this for 3 days until it died again and it will no longer start. My mechanic said the coil was getting too hot and he thought the problem might be my idle control valve, but that was before it quit starting all together. Any ideas on what's wrong?
  5. I have had my car for nearly 18 month, and mostly driven daily. All this time, my car has been running like a champ, always started clean, ran like a top! Last night, on my way home, it suddenly died, just quit. Electrical was good, car was turning over, just not catching. Okay, no worries, my buddy's shop was close by, got a tow over there after a little while, so I wasn't strained for long So, I think it is a fuel issue, something just stopped working. It's either the fuel pump, relay, or something else I'm not aware of. Oh yes, the Check Engine light came on, but I didn't get time to check the code. Thoughts?
  6. I was under my car looking for any sort of broken lines or fuel lines because it won't start. I was about to give up hope when I stumbled upon this and I have no idea what it is it looks as though it is broken but it has a pipe attached to it. its in the back side of the car located in between the gas tank in the indent for the spare tire. could this be causing my tank not to get pressure and then there for my car not starting. if so what is this called is it the pump? Thanks in advance.
  7. My husband was driving my 94 Mazda and it stalled and wouldn't start again. We ordered a relay and replaced it. Nothing. We then changed the fuel pump and the filer. Still nothing. Okay we get a new distributer because it wasn't getting any spark. Ugh still nothing. We changed out the plugs and plug wires they were pretty icky. Still nothing . It cranks and gets gas. Now went back to work on it this morning and the fuel pump is not engaging. I have a 1994 2 liter Manual LX what else should I check. Battery is charged . I even checked that clutch button under the clutch. This Alaskan girl. Ends help I love my Mazda
  8. I have a 1998, has had a lot of problems but recently the fuel pump died. So we replaced the fuel pump and now the pump only turns on when cranking the car, but still car doesn't start. Checked for corrosion under the fuse box and all relays are working properly. What should I check next?
  9. I'm having so many issues with my 626 4 cyl. idle climbs to 2000 rpm then drops to normal constantly, fuel pump not working so i ended up grounding it at the fuel pump pin, coolant fan not working but relays and circuits are good. Removed the coolant sensor sensor normally would ground the relays at the pcm but now, no longer does. Everything points to pcm. I remembered at one time, I removed the pcm connectors to check for possible contact problems but now I realized I should have removed the battery terminals first. Did I damaged the pcm? Thanks.
  10. Hi guys, I'm after some help. I recently purchased a 1985 626 GC Super Deluxe Manual for my son to learn to drive in. Only 2 owners from new. Full service records. 189,000kms on the clock really clean. The car has been running like a dream until last weekend. I took the car out, parked up for 10mins, started back up, drove for 200 metres and it cut out. I waited for 5 mins and it re-started. Drove for another 200 metres and it cut out again. I waited another 2 mins and it started again. I parked it up and called the RACQ. They came out, but the cars was running at idle ok. They put some fuel in as it was a little low (fuel gauge not on) and followed me home (8kms) to my local servo. The car ran fine. I put in $50 of fuel, then went home. The next day I took it out again. Parked up to pick up some shopping. Came back, it started up. I drove 50 metres and it cut out again. I tried to start it up straight away. All electrics working, engine turning, but nothing. I waited 2 mins and it started up and I drove home. I'm thinking it a fuel problem. Maybe fuel pump, as the car is a little jerky off the throttle especially when cold. It also starts up straight away on the choke in the morning, but then cuts out after 20 seconds and I have to turn it over again for 20 seconds to get it going again. I know I can check the pump by removing the fuel line to the carb and spinning the engine over. I will do the later this week. My questions are, has anyone else experienced a simular problem. There was a guy in the US who had the same symptoms and it was fuel pump. If it is fuel pump, does anyone know the best place to purchase in Australia. I called Mazda, but the pump is no longer available. Cheers Nigel
  11. So, I woke up Thursday and it didn't start. I've been down that road before so I figured It was the coil or the crank sensor. I went and pulled a disty from a '02 melinia and threw it in along with a brand new crank sensor. NO START. I thought it was a spark toning issue but it turns out that there is only one way to instal the disty and rotor button, so it'll only go on the PROPER way. I have no idea why I can't get this thing to run.. Any assistance people?
  12. Hi all, Recently I've gone to auto service and asked to replace back breaking rotors and pads on mine 2000' V6. Guys there also persuaded me to make a whole car check and found leakage of oil at the engine bay. Also they persuaded me to replace valve cover gasket (cheap and fast they said). Now I really regret this. First symptom was rough acceleration same evening that I've retrieved my car. It was Saturday, so I had to wait till Monday to show my car at the same Auto Service center. After half a day of diagnosis they posted that my fuel pump is dead. Well, not actually dead, but it gives only slightly more then 2 ATM of pressure, and on acceleration it drops slightly less than 2. Reading spec - it should be 2.9 - 3.2. So yes, they replaced fuel pump (which was never touched before, nearly 14 years old) and both filters (inner and high-pressure), cleaned fuel tank from some kind of foam and sand. And now pressure is normal. I've got my car and was slightly annoyed at the price that I had to pay for such "service", and also at the condition of my fuel tank heat/dirt cover - it's really rusted through and mostly detached from fuel tank itself, so I need to find a replacement, which is not cheap here, in Russia. With nearly empty tank I've gone to nearest gas station and filled around 15 Liters (slightly more than a quarter). It was not best gas station around, so quality of petrol was really questionable. After indicator hit quarter of tank, I got really heavy jerking while fast acceleration. It was like instead of petrol I have a water in my engine at some moments. At others it was like engine kept spinning at 1500-3000 RPM, and couldn't built up additional power, with slightly RPM drop over time when acceleration pedal was depressed. This drop could gone to engine stalling (well, never kept up to this point, just slightly below idle, around 400-500 RPM), and without pedal it went back up to stable idle around 650-750 RPM. "Well, this fuel sucks" was my thoughts, so I've gone to Shell gas station and filled full tank with their V-Power cleaning petrol. And was happy to drive out without any issue. My happy days comes to end right when indicator hit quarter of the tank again. Same symptoms, same jerking while acceleration. Let's go to the, further tests: Ignition is perfect, idle on cold engine is starting over 1500 RPMs and goes down to 750-900 (with heater turned on) over time. No jerking, stalling or rough sounds. Driving with slow acceleration (around 5-15% of pedal depressed) goes well on any gear (1-to-5 and reverse, MT). Driving with cold engine (in C zone or even below) gives acceptable acceleration without jerking (around 30-60% of pedal depressed). When engine heats up to the middle of gauge (slightly to the C side), all symptoms are back. Acceleration is really rough, the less I have in gas tank, the more it shows up, and more I have to run on Idle while acceptable acceleration builds up. On the parking, while slowly increasing RPMs it goes well up to 5-6 K RPM. And if instantly hit pedal it jerks on 3000 RPMs or even less and slowly goes down (with full pedal depressed). And again - Ignition and Idle are good. So I went back to Auto Service center and showed those. After 2 days of tests and nearly quarter of fuel tank burned, they said that found an issue - it was sand in fuel return pipe. So they cleaned it for me for free. Yesterday I've got my car back, drive to gas station, filled around 15 liters of fuel (quarter of tank) and went home. This morning, when gauge hit quarter of tank... you can guess - symptoms are back. Not so rough yet, but still fast acceleration brings jerking to engine. So where should we look next? maybe this is not an fuel pipe/filter/line problem? But then why it shows up only when I have around quarter of my gas tank left? Any suggestions or recommendations will be appropriated. P.S. today opened my bonnet with running engine while filling windshield cleaner liquid. Got this quite whispering sound from somewhere in the middle of the engine on idle, which stops after 1-3 seconds wafter I turn off engine. Is it PCV sound? Or is it indication of vacuum hose leakage?
  13. Here are some videos from Airtex Wells that briefly go over some common fuel pressure issues. These are amazing videos that might just get you headed in the right direction to fix your low fuel pressure, hard starting, or rough idle issues. This is the Airtex Wells E2471 Fuel Pump. This is the one recommended for the 1993-1997 I4 and V6 on their website. I really LOVE their videos. High quality production with an ASE cert. mechanic. Not only are they amazing videos but they are specifically for the E2471 which makes me think they shot videos like this for every single pump in their inventory. Now that's how it's done. ETCG is a big proponent of Airtex Wells components and now I see why. The E2471 is $70 from RockAuto but does not include the strainer. You'll need get the strainer separately from RockAuto for $13 bringing the whole pump replacement to $83. That's cheaper than I thought it was going to be. So it is possible for low voltage to cause the fuel pump to have low pressure! That's the answer I was looking for. I have sufficient charge and the pump is getting battery voltage so that's not the issue in my case. It was something that I was unsure of in my last video and even though I didn't think it really worked like that.... it does. If all of your tests still confirm a bad fuel pump then here is a video on replacing the fuel pump itself. To my knowledge there still isn't a video on how to drop the fuel tank.
  14. During a re-inspection of my 2000 626 v6 my fuel pump stopped working. There was some difficulty between their computer and my car's OB system.....after several attempts my car passed but was no longer getting fuel. Had to be pushed out but with a New PASSED Sticker. Any thoughts of a blown fuse or relay or just time for the pump to go. Car was running fine till being hooked-up to the motor Vehicle Computer....several times
  15. Hi all, Greetings. I have 2002 mazda 626 LX 4 cyl automatic with 85000 miles. I bought this car 6 months ago.Before 3 months I had my head gasket blown and I got new timing belt, water pump , spark plugs, thermistor which was taken care by warranty. Also I recently changed my battery and windshield along with right axle and a tire. I got check engine light few days ago with code P0171 , P0303 and coolant was going into cylinder 3. Mechanic told me it was due to faulty fuel injector. Also he said check engine light is due to bad fuel pump and also want to change my fuel filter. I also have other problem. While backing up it makes grounding noises and mechanic ask me to change break pads. All this costs me around 800. So should I spend this 800 and repair it or sell my car? I have limited knowledge about car. I again talked with my mechanic about the problem in more detail and I got below information. They didnot find coolant into my cylinder 3 it was fuel due to leaky fuel injector. The previous mechanic thought it was coolant but he also said that he hasnt thoroughly checked it. So according to the current mechanic the white smoke was due to fuel in cylinder 3. They also said that they did overnight coolant presure check and found out it was fine and also they did not find water or coolant leak. They did my headgasket job and they think that my engine is not damaged due to it as I took it to them for repair as soon as I got engine light. They also feel my car is sound and might have maintenace work in future but its pretty powerful. They also said that the person who was using this car before me hasnt done any maintenance and its all coming on me. They did fuel pump presure test, they found mine to be between 35-45 psi and it should be from 60-92 psi. They think that it need to be replaced. 0 seconds ago
  16. Does anyone know if you can access the fuel pump on a 02 626 LX under the rear seat or through the trunk? I have heard that some cars have access panels in these locations. Thanks!
  17. Hi, I'm new to this forum and to the 626 world, I just bought a 2000 with 100 K miles on it stick shift and I love it but, I parked it and came back to start it and it wont start. I can hear the fuel pump humming while I'm cranking only but I can't hear it when I put the ignition on ON pistion. I tried with a starting fluid and it will start for a a second and stalls, so its not getting gas. any help would be appreciated.
  18. My 94 Mazda 626 LX V6 has been having a problem where it suddenly quits while driving, usually after it warms up (10-15 miles) but more recently can happen anytime. Generally the engine RPMs suddenly drop to 0 on the tachometer and the car may continue to run with no warning lights for a few seconds but eventually the engine dies completely and the car stops. Occasionally can re-start by shifting to neutral while car is in motion then restarting, but usually not; car starts and runs fine after stopping, turning off, then re-starting but getting harder to re-start without letting it sit for a bit. Acts like something is going wrong when it gets hot; acts up more during hot weather. I suspect a bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay; distributor was replaced about 8 months ago but I have been told if that is bad it will just go out and not start again. My mechanic checked but could not find anything wrong several months ago; incidence of occurence was sporadic then, but has since gotten more frequent and I am not driving it since I commute to work. Check engine light comes on after the first couple minutes running but does not come on right away at start-up. Engine does not really run rough (as plugged fuel filter or bad sensor might make it do); generally it just suddenly dies; tach drops to zero (but may go up again then drop again; sometimes will "recover" and continue to run), and after a few more seconds alternator and oil pressure lights come on. Alternator light may also flicker as engine dies as well. Any ideas what to check, and could this be caused by a bad fuel pump relay?
  19. I have a 2000 626 V6 m-trans with 157K miles. Grey626 ... thanks for the time-saving thread below and the helpful pics! http://mazda626.net/...it/#entry337545 I've learned a lot on this forum from thoughtful contributors such as Snailman and NickR (and others) ... and I really appreciate contributors who take time to post helpul info like you've done here. If I end up having to replace the fuel pump, it your post will be a big help. Now to my problem. My car failed to start at the gas station after refueling. No prior warning ... it was running fine and had 1/4 tank of fuel when I stopped to add a few additional gallons. When it failed to start after adding fuel, I suspected contamination in the fuel I had just added. However, there were many other cars there refueling from the same set of pumps without problems ... plus, the owner of the station was there and immediately pumped some into a clear glass jar to check it (no obvious contamination indicated). I had the car towed to my house and have been working on it since. The engine cranks fine and has good spark but won't start (although it occasionally seems to "try" to start). Based on what I've read in this forum, the failure to start is probably due either to (a) bad fuel pump, or (b) bad crankshaft position sensor. The crankshaft position sensor measures correct resistance on the ohm-meter so I assume it's OK (per test in Haynes manual). However, I can't seem to get fuel to the engine. The diagnostic procedure in the Haynes manual is a little vague but seems to be leading me to the fuel pump. Here's what I've done so far. 1. replaced fuel filter 2. checked fuel system ("EGI") fuse 3. checked EGI relay 4. have assistant turn ignition on so I can listen at fuel tank filler neck for 1-2 seconds of fuel pump noise indicating pump is working (no noise) 5. remove EGI relay and try to turn the pump on manually by jumper wire from the "30" terminal to ground. I assume ignition is supposed to be on and the relay isn't supposed to be plugged in while conducting this test. Anyway, I don't hear the fuel pump running, even with jumper wire in place. 6. checked for power at fuel pump connector at top rear of fuel tank when assistant turns igntion on (no power). It's this test that leads me to doubt my conclusion that fuel pump has failed; based on my understanding of the way the fuel system is supposed to work, I think I should have 1-2 seconds of power at this connector when ignition is switched on. Here are my questions. 1. Is there something else I should check before replacing the pump? 2. My fuel tank registers 1/2 full, which means it has apprx 65 lbs worth of fuel in it. If fuel pump needs replaced, how can I drain it the tank?. There's no drain plug. I've seen a post elsewhere in the forum where Mityvac through filler neck is recommended bu I'm unable to pass even a tiny hose through the filler neck into the tank so I assume it has an anti-siphon device of some sort that will keep the Mityvac (or any other kind of siphon) from working. The rear end of the car is jacked high on jackstands, so I think I can replace the fuel pump without fully removing the tank (as shown in the link pasted above) but I don't want to release the tank straps and struggle with the tank without emptying it. Can any forum member advise? Thanks!!
  20. Hi I drive a 1993 mazda 626 2.0 . I was on my way to the office parking lot and parked my car with the gas warning light up. I then figured i still have enough left to reach the next gas station after my shift. After my shift ended which is approximately 8 hours later, the car started, it took me as far as our barrier, and it went dead and wouldnt start anymore I the figured its because i ran out of gasso i bought approximately 4 liters of fuel, funneled it , tried to start the car , sounds like it would start but it does not start...accrding to other forums if you always push your gas to the limit or every time the gas warning lights up. it gets dirt into the fuel filter.. I m not really sure if the fuel filter is the big black steel under the air flow sensor or the air filter.. need your advise please..
  21. Fuel Pump Relay Diagnostics If you are looking up information on the Fuel Pump Relay (FPR) then chances are that you have a crank no-start condition and are attempting to diagnose the culprit. The FPR could indeed be the culprit so in an effort to help your diagnosis I'm bringing you the information the best way I know how... in a video. This video will help all 1993-2002 Mazda 626 owners. I go over the 4th and 5th gen FPR. The fuel pump relay is what provides power to the fuel pump. No power to the fuel pump means no fuel to the injectors. Tools Required: 2 lengths of wire Multimeter with continuity capability Diagnostic Video: If you confirm that your fuel pump relay is good and you still have no fuel to your injectors or no fuel pressure then you will want to look at the fuel pump itself or the wiring between the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay as the culprit.
  22. I know that Seafoam has many positive properties related to how it can remove water from the gas tank or clean fuel injectors. I was curious if anyone has had a fuel pump go out after using the product? I started using it while investigating idle issues with my 2000 Mazda 626. I used about 4 16 oz cans over a 3 month period and then my fuel pump failed. I have several cans of this stuff and would like to get benefit from it. Perhaps I used to much too soon or it might not be at all related. Any feedback on the affects of gasoline additives like Seafoam on the fuel pump are appreciated. Thank you.