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Found 25 results

  1. This past October I bought my 2000 Mazda 626 LX V6 from my friend's cousin who had moved away. My friend had previously been driving it for about a month, but it was constantly overheating. Eventually he bought his new car and it stayed in his grandparents driveway 7 months until I was about to buy it. Their mechanic who'd worked on the car for years said it needed a new radiator, which he put in. Once I took it to emissions, I realized the check engine light was on and turns out it needed new O2 sensors. I knew it had been low on oil from sitting so many months plus nothing on the dipstick. So my father gave me a quart of oil (don't remember what kind). Right after I put it in, the engine started a rumbling/knocking noise. Shaking almost. It would settle down a little when I took off the breaks, but increased as I accelerated. I was able to drive it home which was 10 minutes away and to my friend's place 15 mins away with noise. Some say it needs a new engine, but I think it may be that oil we put in. Anything sound familiar?
  2. Hi people. I'm new at the forum so I don't know if I'm writing this at the right place. I have a Mazda 626 GD 1.8 12valv from 1991 that I bought one year ago. Now i am needing to buy an engine head to repair it because the original is ruined. Im from Portugal. Wath sugestions do you have?
  3. I cant figure out what is going on w/my husbands car. It has had 3 new starter solenoids put in and three taken out. Working on the fourth now. I need some ideas on what could be causing the starters to burn out. I have replace a slew of parts already and dont want to dump more then a grand on repairing this car. Here is a list of everything I have replace: -Starter/solenoid x3 -battery -battery cables -fuses -spark plugs -spark plug wires -clutch sensor switch I read on another thread that a bad flywheel could potentially cause this but how would l test that theory? I can post a video with a walkthrough of the cars engine compartment and under the dashboard wiring configuration if that would help. I'm really stumped and really could use some advice. Any help would be awesome
  4. Hi, First of all, I tried search but couldn't find any info about this so if there's any post about this - sorry :) Mazda MX-6 1992 2.0 Short version : Engine starts, with gas pedal runs fine but little misfires(?), on idle rpm up and down after 30sec and stalls, idle adjuster works, MAF-works, timing belt+cams ok. What's the problem? Long version : I changed my head gasket and machined the head on one guy, he replaced valve stems etc. everything is ok in the head and everything went smoothly back in to place and the car starts just fine. I can rev it but when on steady gas pedal it feels like it's misfiring and the rpm wants to wander off, and if I let it to go idle - it will stall - the automatic idle adjuster tries to keep the engine running but it can't, so the rpm goes up and down until stalls. Every electrical plug should be in place, all vacuum pipes are connected to right places. Timing belt + cams are 100% sure in right spot. I installed distributor like it's in the repair manual. I get the marks matching inside. When I move it around I can find the sweet spot where the engine wants to idle just fine, until it stalls that is. Intake is ok so there shouldn't be any leaks, also exhaust is ok. MAF should be ok (engine shuts down from idle right away when I unplug it) So we have spark (more or less on right spot), air and because it can run "fine" with gas we should have fuel as well. So what might be the problem? Somehow I suspect it might be faulty O2-sensor? And yes I didn't forget to add oil and water :) I'm going to the car in three hours, going to check again everything, try to read error codes, check pressure in cylinders. Etc. Will post here video about the problem if that's ok. Regards, Marko
  5. Bought my '97 626 in September this year, 144K on her, had absolutely no apparent issues..... October comes around and the Check Engine light begins to turn on and off and on at random intervals. Checked for the code and it was a P1506 - Idle Air, Overspeed, Vacuum Leak, etc. A few weeks pass, suddenly the car begins to have issues idling smoothly and she wouldn't turn over properly, some times won't turn over after 5-10 seconds, or would turn over after one go at 'er and it would stall - very rarely I might add.. November comes by and the check engine light turns off.... absolutely no problems what so ever! Ran for 3 weeks beautifully as it came out of Limp Home Mode caused by the Check Engine light. Fourth week of November swings around and suddenly it's back.............. and this time with a vengeance. Regardless of LHM being active due to the Check Engine signal from the computer, the accelerator begins to act really strangely while driving. It won't get to any RPM steadily, it'll go up or down 100-200 RPM. So if I was at 2000 RPM, it'd fall below to 1800-1900 and/or go up to 2100-2200. As soon as I let off the gas, she'd drop extremely quick to 1200 RPM and shudder the vehicle extremely hard all the way to 1200 RPM, and if I was unlucky, drop beyond to 800 and shudder even harder as it fights to get back up to 1200. Now since 3 days ago, the starter is acting up hardcore, some times won't turn over, some times starts and stalls immediately... Some times runs like a champ despite LHM being active.. The most recent and dangerous thing it has done was I'll be driving and as soon as I let off the gas, the car stalls. I've also noticed my dash lights are all coming on when I step on the brake - meters and climate control, even the chime that tells you your dash lights are on gets tripped - and even further, my clutch is making some sort of sliding noise in unison with the lights coming on. To complicate matters further, I can let it sit at idle while warming up, not touching anything and my clutch will make its noise too and it happens far more often when the dash lights are on, less when the headlights are on. (I don't understand that one) All the while idling, those issues going, my idle is also taking sharp dips from 850 to 400-500 also in unison with the clutch and dash lights. I should note that when the noise and lights thing is happening while the idle is taking nose dives, that the lights all dim out. I cannot spot anything obvious or apparent under the hood that's causing ANY of these issues, and even the vacuum leak I have isn't apparent because a smoke test revealed zilch, nada, nothin but as soon as LHM turns off, the car returns to full functionality............... except for this week's issues which remain quite prevalant. All liquids and such are topped off and the air filter is clean and newish. Didn't see any blown fuses. ./thread Also, hello, new to the forums, new-ish to my 626 which seems to hate my guts.
  6. hello all, well I've unfortunately been having to deal with all the flooding in SC this past weekend and the water has done a number on my car. i was driving at maybe 25 mph and hit a large puddle about 4 inches deep. the car stalled and i have since not been able to get it to start. when the key is turned the solenoid clicks and the starter spins up with a whirling noise and that's it. it seems like the starter isn't even engaging the fly wheel. i've tried push starting it but when the clutch is released the car stops like you've slammed the brakes. could the water have caused my timing belt to slip? the timing belt, alternator, and plug wires are all new and no trouble codes were found.
  7. Looking at swapping a buick v6 from a commodore into my 1978 sedan, just wondering if anyone has had any experience or sussgestion i would be very thankful
  8. Surely, some of you have tried swapping out the 2.0 for an inline or V6? I need suggestions based on ease...anything, anyone?
  9. Okay so My 1995 automatic 2l 626 is acting up and the other day driving to santa, as well as on thanksgiving when I was driving in traffic to Danville from San Jose, My car started to overheat and I pulled over to fill the radiator with water thinking that the collant was low. Still the temp gauge started moving upwards and i was concerned. The other day when I was heading to santa cruz I was stuck in traffic and all of a sudden my car started smoking. It was white smoke billowing up from underneath my car through the hood, and looked as if it was coming from the headers to exhaust gasket. My theory is that a few gaskets are blown and need to be replaced. As well as too much coolant is being pushed into my exhaust which can destroy my cat. I dont want to replace my cat so if I can salvage it then that would be great. any info helps. thanks gys.
  10. Hello, I have a 98 Mazda 626 i4 lx. In the last couple of weeks when ever I have waited at a red light the RPM's have been fluctuating between 500-750 and this causes the car to vibrate and shake a lot. The check engine light has been on for a while so i decided to get it checked out. At the auto parts store they ran a diagnostic and this code came back, P1131. Any additional help would be appreciated.
  11. Im getting my engine and transmission rebuilt this week. Is there anything I should tell them to do performance wise while they are in my engine and what not? Help horsepower and torque. Will i gain anything from them just rebuilding my engine in general?
  12. My blue 1990 Mazda 626 hatchback disappeared from a repair shop called Innovative Automotive in Sierra Vista AZ, in January 2014. I was just informed the Sheriff's department will no longer look for it, nor have they tagged it as "stolen" in the Motor Vehicles database. The former owners of Innovative Automotive skipped the state, and ripped off a bunch of people. My car was in for an engine replacement, and they had a $1000 down payment from me for that. That disappeared also, of course. I know there's no chance of getting my money back, but I hope my car can be found. It's a blue hatchback, new A/C compressor, rather new radiator, new clutch, working electric door locks and windows, moon roof sealed shut, clean interior in good shape, one headlight and one tail light damaged, paint worn off on hood from blowing sand in Arizona. It was all in great condition, except the engine. Cylinder head was off, and sitting on front passenger-side floorboard. It had to be towed or pulled away from the repair shop. It may have long since been taken across the border into Mexico, or could have been sold for salvage in S. Arizona. It had many parts in very good condition. If you've seen such a Mazda anywhere, or if you see one that fits this description being sold as a parts car, please let me know. My ex and I bought this car new in 1989, and I'm very attached to it. I have its title here, and can prove ownership. Motor Vehicles shows no action on its VIN, so no one has tried to get a salvage title on it. That's pretty uncommon here in S AZ, though, where cars are sold for salvage (or otherwise) without titles, and many cars go across the border into Mexico for repair or parts. Thanks. Feel free to email me directly with any info at: bmontes@iland.net
  13. So i started my car this morning and a bit of smoke came from the engine, smelled like somthing burning but i couldnt tell. I do now know that my fans are no longer working. All fluids are good. Car at normal temp. When i get to about 2500 RPMs in gear i hear a constant ticking. Nothing sounding to good. I will post a video later on today for further help
  14. Hello, we've got a 2002 Mazda 626 2.5 L V6 with a dead engine here and I was wondering if an older version of the 2.5L or (preferably) if a Ford Probe Mazda engine will work in this vehicle? I've done a bit of research on these forums about this question but saw nothing specific about the Probe engine working well in a swap out. I see a similar year Probe engine sells for considerably less than the 626 engine does so it makes me a bit weary. Any help or thought shared is appreciated!
  15. When i accelerate uphill in very hot weather say 80-90f the engine will Ping slightly in third gear, I have put in a new set spark plugs (NGK Platinum PZFR6F) this has made an improvement although it hasn't solved the problem completely. When the air temperature is average 50-70f the car runs perfectly OK.
  16. My husband and I are half way through the rebuild and resurrection of my 1989 626 turbo AWS. So far we have disassembled two F2T engines and completely stripped the engine bay for respray. At the moment we are being slowed down by waiting for parts to arrive (mainly the new pistons so we can send the block off to get honed) so I thought I would take the time to introduce our project. 1989 Mazda 626 Turbo AWS AUTOMATIC (not running) bought for $600 on the 2nd of Feb 2013. Included in the $600 price tag was a second F2T with a manual trans. The body of the car was in fantastic condition, the interior was a little dirty, but a good clean out was all it would need. Surprisingly there was very little rust to be found, the majority of it easily converted :) Our plans for the Mazda are pretty simple; Resurrect and restore. All new or rebuilt internals are in order for our project. It's costing a little more than we expected, but it's well worth the money. We plan on keeping her as stock and legal as possible with a few tweaks to make her a little bit more exciting to drive. Along with a rebuilt engine and manual conversion she will be getting a full respray (including engine bay) and the interior will be turning from boring grey to black with hints of green. UPDATE: For those watching our rebuild here is a list of what has been done up to date: *Engine rebuild with following: -Block acid dipped, bored 0.020 over, honed, and top deck grind -Brand new ACL 0.020 over piston and rings -Crankshaft polish and clean -New crank and big end bearings -New head with new valves and valve seats -New water pump -New oil pump -New timing belt, pulleys and spring -New alternator and Powersteering/AC Belts -Rebuilt turbo -All new thermo sensors, oil pressure switch, O2 sensor, thermostat -New excedy heavy duty sports clutch -Engine high temp enamel painted black with green tappet cover -Intake manifold high temp enamal black with green fuel rail -Exhaust manifold high temp enamal green (burned off to a dark green after first 10mins of running for initial startup tests) -All brand new gaskets, O-rings, and seals *Now converted to manual *New clutch master and slave cylinders *New Distributor *New coil pack *New leads and plugs *New fuel pump *New control arms *New front end bushes all urethane except control arm to chassis still rubber *New outer tie rod ends *New front brake discs *Refurbished rear brake discs *New front and rear pads *New coolant and power steering hoses *New green silicone vacuum lines and windscreen water jet hoses *Engine bay and components all resprayed *New headdeck *Modified gearbox and wiring loom harness for auto to manual conversion - for reverse lights and 'P'/'N' bypass As i remember the items i have missed or do more work will update list. *New boostgauge and turbo timer
  17. I have a problem with a rusted out engine crossmember. Is this a commen problem?
  18. Are there any how-to's for replacing a head gasket in the 2001 LX-V6? I have ordered the head gaskets, but would like to have some help going into this.
  19. I'm pulling apart a FS 2.0 out of a 1995 Probe. I've gotten stuck at pulling the timing gear off of the crank in order to remove the crank and front main seal. Anyone have a write up or video? My buddy has an MX6 and said his slipped off fairly easy, assuming most of the holding power was the crank pulley and bolt. He thinks it's stuck on from rust and buildup. I've tapped on it in order to try to loosen it up but to no avail.
  20. Hi! Recently bought a Mazda 626 2.0L FS, and i was wondering, what could i do to get the most effect on the engine? I've already bought Racing chip and powerfilter, but it isn't enough! what more could i buy to get more engine effect? have like 130 bhp original, i want atleast up to 170 bhp. Appreciate replies! First post btw. - Christian, Norway
  21. Okay...here's the bottom line. My 2001 626 ES V6 (auto) won't start. It cranks, but won't turn over. Settle in...this is a long story, but want to give you every detail to help with diagnosis. Here's what's happened so far. The car overheated about a week ago and died. I pulled it into a repair show who diagnosed it as a leaking radiator and (because of the overheating) a cracked coolant overflow tank. Both were repaired. Not shockingly in hindsight, the car started to overheat after about 35 miles of driving. It was taken to the same repair shop (as they said their work was guaranteed) and this time they said it was the thermostat. That was replaced. Guess what next? After about 5 miles on the highway the car is running fine. Then I start to accelerate to pass another car and I hear what sounded almost like a very soft pop or whoosh sound and I notice my engine has totally stalled at highway speed. I start to pull over and try to restart in neutral, but nothing happens. The engine cranks, but won't turn over. I get it stopped and it won't start. I call the same repair shop, quite irate this time, and have it brought back (why? I have no idea). They perform every test in the world (their words). They say the compression is fine, it's getting fuel, all the electrical seems to be working fine. They have no idea what's wrong with it. However, they suspect that it might not be getting a strong enough spark to start. They recommend new plugs and wires, but also say that they can't be sure that's the problem. It might be the ignition coil, but they can't tell until they rule out the plugs and wires. Then they tell me it'll be $600 for new plugs and wires and $300 for the ignition coil. I tell them to jump in a lake. I get the car towed to my house and start working. I replace the plugs and wires and same thing. Cranks, but won't turn over. I replace the ignition coil...same thing. I check and replace the fuel filter, as I read that this could be the issue. Same thing. I can hear the fuel pump after I crank it and the fuel filter was full of fuel, so I think that's okay. The spark plugs appear to be getting spark at this point, but it still won't turn over. If I crank it a few times, it eventually dies and only clicks. However, all my electrical in the car still works. If I jump it, I can crank it again a bunch of times, but it still won't turn over. So, now what? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks, JMR
  22. Hello, Looking for a little clarification and after some searching I have not found a concrete answer. I am sure you can help easily. I have 99 Mazda 626 2L and the engine blew. After some research it seems that 93-2002 have the same 4 cyl engine (I think). Now I am looking to put a used engine into the car with as little additional work as possible. I saw some sites listing only 98 and 99 as the years acceptable as replacement motors for my car. So my question to you is: What years of 626 and any other cars are acceptable to use as a replacement? And which years make for an exact match and an easy switch with little additional work and parts. I recently was in the hospital for surgery and all of my emergency cash is almost gone, so I am very low on cash and looking to do this as simple and low cost as possible. Thank you for the help, and sorry if I missed a similar post when I searched. Mike
  23. I bought a 626 with a 2.0 I4, with an alleged timing belt issue. It started up that day, and pulled into my garage where it sits now. It had bad gas, but I fixed that already. Oil is dark, heres what ive done so far... I installed a new water pump, the old one was shot. New plugs, wires cap and rotor, specifically for the manual trans. It had a head gasket leak, and I used stop leak to try and save me alooot of time!!! tested the injectors, fuses, fuel pump and IAT sensor. All good. IT IS NOT RUNNING at the moment. I beleive the timing is off. When I got the car, the plugs were not plugged in the cap as shown in the book, so i plugged in as shown in the service manual, nada. I also set the no. 1 piston to TDC, and lined up the timing marks back up on the distributor, to the cam gears, and then put the plugs back as shown in the manual. Nada. I AM STUMPED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The leak is fixed, but I can't find a better way to time the ignition system. I do not have a timing light. I believe that its the last thing before its purring like a kitten. When it started, you had to put the gas pedal 3/4 way to the floor, then let off, and be PRECISE with it, or it wouldnt start. When it was running, you couldnt let it idle or it would stall and NOT be too happy bout starting back up.. ANY help would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!!
  24. i have a 89 Mazda 626 lx and i am thinking of replacing the engine in it but i want to go from a 2.2 non turbo charged to a 2.2 turbo charged engine will the ecu in the car work for a turbo charged engine
  25. Hello I have a 2000 Mazda 626 2.0L Auto and it wont start. I took it to a mechanic and the cam shaft on the intake side broke. The bolt holding the gear broke. Then i took it to another mechanic for another check and he took off the camshaft and one f the valves has damage around its area. I don't know what to do at this point. I can either change out the cylinder head for $325 plus $300 for labor or change out the engine for $425 and $300 for labor. I was told that the reason this damged was caused was becuase of lack of oil and if i change the cylinder head more than likely in a month or so this will happpen again to the camshaft. Any advise?