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Car

  1. Alright so here's the deal, the fans don't turn on, even with the ECT sensor unplugged(and replaced). I've replaced all the relays and ive tested the fans (they work when connected to a direct power source) the relays are getting power from the engine but the wires coming from the relay box to the cooling fans are not drawing any power. I'm stumped.
  2. Hey guys, 2000 Mazda 626, LX V6 2.5L. Auto. Has 130,0013 miles on it.. Car sat for a year due to unrelated problems (fuel pump) etc. So i put a new pump in my self, replaced needed fuses and got it running and registered, alternator was bad from a year ago.. another reason it sat. So i had a lifetime warranty on one of NAPA'S crappy alternators, so i had my mechanic remove the alternator for me (considering its one hell of a job to get out myself.. and i dont have a lift) and i took the old one to napa, they gave me a refurb lifetime one and i took it to my mechanic and he put it in for me, co
  3. HELP! I have been a ghost user on this because of all the advice or steps from others' on here. but finally I have come across something that Im not too sure of. Im now starting to take some pride in learning how to just do things myself when it comes to cars. Anyways, about a month ago I was driving and my heater kicks off, then my break warning light comes on, and I get a burning smell, as Im trying to find a place to park I noticed my headlights were on but my headlight switch was not in the "on" position. My first thing was to just check fuses, didn't see anything. Turned off the car
  4. Hey guys! Im recently getting into "fixing" my 626 so forgive me and be patient. okay. So today 12/26/16 my windshield wipers would not turn off. The windshield wiper fluid pump would run as if I had it the switch but they would not stop. First thing I was always taught was, to check the fuses; everything was good. Turned back on my car and it worked just fine. Ran to the store, to see that it appears my parking lights were on then cut off. Now if you are familiar some 626's come with the factory alarm where lights will flash but this time it didnt. Got home, had m
  5. I'm soon going to be replacing the alternator and belt on my base 88' 626 sedan. I've god a few decent junkyards within driving distance of home. Any vehicles that share an appropriately sized 70 amp 12V alternator I could salvage one from? Any tips for when I do the replacement itself or will it be a pretty standard affair? According to CARiD, the Remy alternator is also a Mitsubishi model, based on the stamp in the component itself.
  6. Revisiting this, albeit sometime later, djdevon3 was absolutely correct in that it was an aftermarket keyless entry setup, just to be clear. Fast forward to today, I figured it would be more appropriate to start my own thread rather than to continue hijacking another members old thread and I've torn out the keyless entry because it quit working completely and I felt the need to install an aftermarket alarm anyhow, mostly for the 2 way paging feature. I do have a problem though and was hoping maybe one of you had come across this as I can't seem to find any
  7. Needing help testing the fuel rail harnesses to see if I'm getting power to both rails. I'm fouling out all spark plugs within a very short mileage 10-15 miles. DTC's P0174 - Lean bank 2 P1132 - Lack of heated O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) switch, indicates rich. 1. What are the correct ohms and pinout of the plugs for the rail. 2. How to test It seems and sounds like a missfire (no load) based off of the exhaust. Excellent spark from coil to wire and to the plug on all 6 cylinders. Is there a way I can test the injectors to see if its even getting s
  8. While idling, after the car warms up, there is a clicking noise right near the steering column area which sounds like a relay turning on and off really fast. If I press the gas, it stops, letting off the gas while coasting/idling it will begin to start clicking again. It doesn't seem to effect the performance, maybe a rough idle, not sure. I have not personally looked up under the dash to see what's what, haven't had the time. Just wanted to throw it out there to see if anyone else has had a similar issue.
  9. I was replacing my passenger-side trailing link/arm the other day, and I noticed a bit of frayed wire bolted to the chassis: I'm curious if anyone can find this on their 626 and tell me where it goes. I have the 1997 Wiring Diagram book, but I've not yet been able to decipher where that wire would be :-( Thanks for your time.
  10. I have a 1998, has had a lot of problems but recently the fuel pump died. So we replaced the fuel pump and now the pump only turns on when cranking the car, but still car doesn't start. Checked for corrosion under the fuse box and all relays are working properly. What should I check next?
  11. Hey guys, new member here. I've got a 91' mazda 626 and the issue is with the Power/Eco toggle switch and cluster light. The power light glows and enables, but the eco light does not illuminate and not sure if its enabling either. If anybody has insight on this issue, please feel free to comment with solutions, it will be highly appreciated! Thanks guys
  12. Hey guys, Anyone know where to buy and what type of bulbs go into the cluster for the gauges and power/econ lights? thanks!
  13. Hello everyone I have a 1997 Mazda 626 2.0L Automatic LX I replaced my Head Gasket, redid my timing and replaced all the necessary gaskets and I now have a Crank but No Start. So Electrically, I replaced the ignition coil (I have a distributor and separate ignition coil), spark plugs, spark wires, distributor cap and rotor, and have used 2 different car batteries. Fuel wise, I have tested the fuel injectors (13.5 OHMs, which was satisfactory) and tested the fuel pressure only between the fuel filter and fuel rail. The fuel pressure was about 47-49 but only when I tried sta
  14. So, while investigating while my car is overheating (more on that later), I came across what looks like an electrical connection to nowhere on the left front of the car (when facing the car) by the coolant reservoir. What it is and it should be plugged into something? P.S. Car overheating is distressing. No obvious leaks, the coolant level appears unchanged, the fan does turn on. When it happened, steam poured out from under the hood and I noticed some water on the plastic below the fan.
  15. This issue is what gave me cause to become a member. That, and what seems to be a great community RE the 626. I have read these two threads: Signal Lights Not Working Left turn flasher not working In hopes that the relay was the issue as it was for @ascreighton, I found a relay for 15$ on e-bay and replaced it. Bummer - no change - other than the tone of the blinker. Previously I had replaced the bulbs in the front and rear and those were just fine - they have been working the whole time, just blinking fast. Today I discovered that if I disconnect the rear harness to the left ta
  16. hey guys, been awhile since i've needed advice from here, but seems every winter my car likes to act up. went out to start my car and it started fine, ran for about 5 seconds then kinda fizzled out like it was out of gas (the gauge said empty). so i put a gallon gas in so i could get to the station, and it still won't start. still sounded like it had no gas, so i sprayed some ether and it had no reaction as if i didn't spray anything at all. checked the codes and got 4 long flashes a long pause then one short flash and that would just repeat, but im not sure what that means. haven'
  17. Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have an air horn I have been meaning to hook up for a while but I cant find the factory horn. Anybody have pictures? Even if someone knows where the wires for the horn are would be awesome :)
  18. I noticed that my 4 year old battery was getting weak, & negative terminal had a bad connection (to the point the crimp was loose and the negative ground wire would actually slip out while driving leaving the battery disconnected on the negative side) After a while I would feel the car lose a tad bit of power (but not stall) while driving and the tachometer would read outlandishly. I replaced that negative terminal and that stopped... Then the battery died, I charged it, and the car started and ran fine once again. This morning the battery died again and the car wouldn't even start with a
  19. I think there is a consistent problem with wiring in my car, an '01 626 I4 LX. My rear speakers seem to be in fine condition, but they only work at random and for short intervals (thus I suspect a loose or frayed wire). My cruise control gave out 6 months ago after demonstrating similar intermittent operation like the speakers, two days ago my trunk release stopped working at the same time my battery died, and today I heard a bizarre, loud crackling sound when I turned off the car. The sound seemed to come from directly behind me, either in the roof or from the rear driver side speaker. Wher
  20. Hi, I'm new to the Mazda forum so might as well introduce my self. My Name is Paul I live in Australia as a student from Latvia. Few months ago I bought my first car and it is a nice 1992 Mazda 626 2.2l non-turbo auto. I hate that it's auto, most cars in Australia are auto... The second day I had my new beloved Mazda some a**hole got in stole my radio and my car battery. I can deal with that but the problems start here.. Since that asshole stole those things he managed to screw up my electronics. Lights: Non of the interior lights work. When I try to turn on the dome light a "door open"
  21. HELP!!! My visors wouldn't stay up, so I bought new ones. Pulled too hard when taking driver side off (forgot wire for vanity mirror) and it sparked. Now radio/clock don't work at all, door locks won't work w/o key in ignition and battery seems to be draining (getting increasingly difficult to start and have new battery). All items seem to reset each time I start the car--goes to defrost and trip meter resets. Air conditioner works still. Have checked all fuses and someone checked the relays in the engine fuse box--all okay. Local mechanic doesn't inspire confidence--just says that th
  22. Hello & thanks for wanting to help me out. I moved to CA & bought an '02 626 to get around but I have to get it smogged but the OBD doens't have power & the room fuse pops the fuse soon as you put it in. Electrical is my weakness & was hoping someone has come across this issue before. I can't think of anything else to add, so please ask if I am leaving anything out. Thanks again! Diagrams: http://mazda626.net/topic/36955-i-have-some-626-diagrams-and-specs-does-anyone-need-them/
  23. My dash lights on my 626 go on and off randomly usually a light tap turns them back on but I'm lost on where to even begin looking any help would be greatly appreciated 98 626 es 2.5 auto
  24. Hi Everyone. My friend used a scan tool and told me it read a Torque Converter Clutch solenoid error code. The car will idle but chockes off as soon as it is put in gear. Where is this located and how to check it? Do I have to pull the transmission? What electrical checks should I make? I am fairly handy with meters and mechanical issues but this is the first time I have ever experienced this problem. Any guidance would be appreciated!! It is a 2.0 auto
  25. so if your having trouble with the driver door window switch rolling up and down other windows, then you probably need to clean the contacts in your window switch, but have no fear a diy guide is here! i did this a while back and meant to make this thread and never got around to it so here we go lol, and i didnt include how to remove your door panel sorry guys.. heres what you want to use its the best stuff to get, when your cleaning the contacts just spray it on and it dries on its own, after you spray the contacts use a cotton swap and a flathead screw driver and scrape the contacts then us
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