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Car

Found 30 results

  1. Alright so here's the deal, the fans don't turn on, even with the ECT sensor unplugged(and replaced). I've replaced all the relays and ive tested the fans (they work when connected to a direct power source) the relays are getting power from the engine but the wires coming from the relay box to the cooling fans are not drawing any power. I'm stumped.
  2. Hey guys, 2000 Mazda 626, LX V6 2.5L. Auto. Has 130,0013 miles on it.. Car sat for a year due to unrelated problems (fuel pump) etc. So i put a new pump in my self, replaced needed fuses and got it running and registered, alternator was bad from a year ago.. another reason it sat. So i had a lifetime warranty on one of NAPA'S crappy alternators, so i had my mechanic remove the alternator for me (considering its one hell of a job to get out myself.. and i dont have a lift) and i took the old one to napa, they gave me a refurb lifetime one and i took it to my mechanic and he put it in for me, cost $150 for labor. Drove the car around perfectly fine, bought new tires, ac works great etc. (slight sputter at idle, not too noticable, i dont know if that had to do with this alternator or maybe a vacuum leak somewhere) and i put 400 miles on the car, / this alternator when one day i started it up, was putting my seat belt on and checking the dash for any warning lights as usual and the batt light was illuminated this time, so i took it to autozone where they checked the voltage and said the alternator wasnt charging properly. So i took my Digital multimeter and checked it my self when i had the time and the charge when the car is off was 12.6 as usual, but when the car is running its around 11.80. drops as i turn on accessories etc. Took it to my mechanic and he said that oil killed it (had an oil leak for years, never knew where it was coming from and hadnt caused any problems before). So i pulled my car up on ramps and looked all around, degreased everything, screwed the oil filter on as it was loose and leaking..lol. and researched the internet until i figured out cam plugs usually leak, so i replaced the cam plug that turned out to be a leak spot, on the right side of the engine, near the timing cover area (or, front of the engine when looking into the engine bay facing the front of the car) behind the little motor bracket that you use to pull the engine, (had to remove the bracket) and the cam plug or blind plug, whatever it actually is, was loose and definitely leaking, put some RTV sealant and boom it stopped. but my car is still leaking oil from other places though.. oil still leaking from the timing cover area towards the back, i think the cam plug there is bad too, probably going to replace that one.. and its leaking oil on the drivers side somewhere behind the ignition pack, or whatever thats called. looks like another one of those plugs is leaking there, i can slide my finger in and move it slightly and oil is definitely coming from there, dripping onto my exhaust downpipe and steaming, then dripping down off onto my oil filter and other things etc. so my questions are, how do i replace the little plug behind the ignition coil pack, and is that a plug or what actually is it? also, where is the other cam plug thats located behind the timing cover? do i have to remove that whole timing cover just to replace it? thanks, any tips on fixing this would be awesome, i love this car, engine runs great, body is in perfect shape as is my interior, headlights are clear as day, looks beautiful and runs beautiful, i mean sure it has some problems but everything can be fixed, and im pretty sure i can figure out how to do it with some help/pointers :) PS, can oil really kill an alternator? How does this happen? doesnt look like much oil is on it, though it does drip from the bottom of the alternator housing/casing.. Thanks a bunch!!
  3. HELP! I have been a ghost user on this because of all the advice or steps from others' on here. but finally I have come across something that Im not too sure of. Im now starting to take some pride in learning how to just do things myself when it comes to cars. Anyways, about a month ago I was driving and my heater kicks off, then my break warning light comes on, and I get a burning smell, as Im trying to find a place to park I noticed my headlights were on but my headlight switch was not in the "on" position. My first thing was to just check fuses, didn't see anything. Turned off the car for about 10 minutes or so and when I turned it back on it seemed to be normal, everything was at least working that way. So I decide to just cut my journey short and head home, as Im at a stop light my car turns completely off and wouldn't start but everything in the dash was still lit. Finally getting it home (tow) I started to speculate that it was the headlight combo switch. but then got confused because my windshield wipers weren't working correctly a couple days before. They just started going at full speed when I was driving. as of today 01/15/17 I am about to change the fuel pump. My battery was drained so I took it to auto zone to get it charged Im just wondering whats draining it and kind of what are your opinions or if one of you guys experienced the same issue. please help guys, I need it!
  4. Hey guys! Im recently getting into "fixing" my 626 so forgive me and be patient. okay. So today 12/26/16 my windshield wipers would not turn off. The windshield wiper fluid pump would run as if I had it the switch but they would not stop. First thing I was always taught was, to check the fuses; everything was good. Turned back on my car and it worked just fine. Ran to the store, to see that it appears my parking lights were on then cut off. Now if you are familiar some 626's come with the factory alarm where lights will flash but this time it didnt. Got home, had my fiance tell me that my alarm was going off then it stopped by itself. I get inside start, messing with my lights turning them off and on and now my parking lights wont come on and when I kick it into high-beam my windshield wiper pump goes as if I hit the switch. Im thinking a short somewhere under the steering column but question is where? I was reading earlier people having somewhat of the same issue. Weather here today was 53 degrees which if youre not from Michigan you wont understand that we can get all seasons in one week. Lately it has been freezing and not steady in the 30s. Help!
  5. I'm soon going to be replacing the alternator and belt on my base 88' 626 sedan. I've god a few decent junkyards within driving distance of home. Any vehicles that share an appropriately sized 70 amp 12V alternator I could salvage one from? Any tips for when I do the replacement itself or will it be a pretty standard affair? According to CARiD, the Remy alternator is also a Mitsubishi model, based on the stamp in the component itself.
  6. Revisiting this, albeit sometime later, djdevon3 was absolutely correct in that it was an aftermarket keyless entry setup, just to be clear. Fast forward to today, I figured it would be more appropriate to start my own thread rather than to continue hijacking another members old thread and I've torn out the keyless entry because it quit working completely and I felt the need to install an aftermarket alarm anyhow, mostly for the 2 way paging feature. I do have a problem though and was hoping maybe one of you had come across this as I can't seem to find anything on the forum that's relevant. I have the alarm fully installed, and that's not an issue, but what IS an issue is the fact that it seems that an aftermarket actuator was installed along with the aftermarket keyless entry module, sometime before I bought the vehicle, since it did NOT originally have keyless entry. Now, I have the system working correctly using the Python alarm outputs to arm/disarm and lock/unlock, however, if I remotely unlock using the alarm fob, rather than unlocking using the key, the factory alarm goes off. It didn't do this with the prior aftermarket remote entry system and I can't seem to determine HOW they bypassed that function of the factory theft deterent system. Any ideas? Thanks. BTW, just picked up another 626, of identical year and sub model, for 300 bucks. I'm anxious to see what kind of goodies I can rob from it for my car because aside from a blown head gasket, which doesn't matter since I plan to pull that engine and do a full rebuild along with some performance modifications, the car is in great shape. Body and paint are much better than mine, so I'll probably do a full body panel swap. Interior is in good shape and sfaik all of the other features are still functional and present. I've got a few little broken items here and there like the dash bezel and a couple of small missing trim pieces, so I'm going to rob everything off this car that I can to make one car that's as close to original condition as possible. Mechanically, just about everything on the chassis and under the hood of my original 626 has pretty much been replaced anyway so I'm not too worried about designed wear on consumable parts. If you have any suggestions on uncommon items that I'd better make sure to pull and set aside because I'm going to find that they are either hard to find or expensive, in the event it fails, I'm all ears.
  7. Needing help testing the fuel rail harnesses to see if I'm getting power to both rails. I'm fouling out all spark plugs within a very short mileage 10-15 miles. DTC's P0174 - Lean bank 2 P1132 - Lack of heated O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) switch, indicates rich. 1. What are the correct ohms and pinout of the plugs for the rail. 2. How to test It seems and sounds like a missfire (no load) based off of the exhaust. Excellent spark from coil to wire and to the plug on all 6 cylinders. Is there a way I can test the injectors to see if its even getting signal from the harness to the injector? Replaced intake manifold gasket just incase of a vacuum leak. I really do appreciate any help, suggestions, or ideas. thank you in advance.
  8. While idling, after the car warms up, there is a clicking noise right near the steering column area which sounds like a relay turning on and off really fast. If I press the gas, it stops, letting off the gas while coasting/idling it will begin to start clicking again. It doesn't seem to effect the performance, maybe a rough idle, not sure. I have not personally looked up under the dash to see what's what, haven't had the time. Just wanted to throw it out there to see if anyone else has had a similar issue.
  9. I was replacing my passenger-side trailing link/arm the other day, and I noticed a bit of frayed wire bolted to the chassis: I'm curious if anyone can find this on their 626 and tell me where it goes. I have the 1997 Wiring Diagram book, but I've not yet been able to decipher where that wire would be :-( Thanks for your time.
  10. I have a 1998, has had a lot of problems but recently the fuel pump died. So we replaced the fuel pump and now the pump only turns on when cranking the car, but still car doesn't start. Checked for corrosion under the fuse box and all relays are working properly. What should I check next?
  11. Hey guys, new member here. I've got a 91' mazda 626 and the issue is with the Power/Eco toggle switch and cluster light. The power light glows and enables, but the eco light does not illuminate and not sure if its enabling either. If anybody has insight on this issue, please feel free to comment with solutions, it will be highly appreciated! Thanks guys
  12. Hey guys, Anyone know where to buy and what type of bulbs go into the cluster for the gauges and power/econ lights? thanks!
  13. Hello everyone I have a 1997 Mazda 626 2.0L Automatic LX I replaced my Head Gasket, redid my timing and replaced all the necessary gaskets and I now have a Crank but No Start. So Electrically, I replaced the ignition coil (I have a distributor and separate ignition coil), spark plugs, spark wires, distributor cap and rotor, and have used 2 different car batteries. Fuel wise, I have tested the fuel injectors (13.5 OHMs, which was satisfactory) and tested the fuel pressure only between the fuel filter and fuel rail. The fuel pressure was about 47-49 but only when I tried starting the car. If I turned it to the ON position, I had no fuel pressure. Although later, I could hear the Fuel Pump kick on in the ON position, but didnt have fuel pressure gauge on the fuel lines. Lastly, I was walking away for the night and heard a humming noise with the car being off. The humming was coming from the area of the Negative Battery Terminal and Engine Fuse Box, I want to say it was at 2 different places and one was the Chassis Ground. Well its been a long day working on this spoiled 626 so I wanted to see if you guys on here could help out. I appreciate any help in advance. Thanks
  14. So, while investigating while my car is overheating (more on that later), I came across what looks like an electrical connection to nowhere on the left front of the car (when facing the car) by the coolant reservoir. What it is and it should be plugged into something? P.S. Car overheating is distressing. No obvious leaks, the coolant level appears unchanged, the fan does turn on. When it happened, steam poured out from under the hood and I noticed some water on the plastic below the fan.
  15. This issue is what gave me cause to become a member. That, and what seems to be a great community RE the 626. I have read these two threads: Signal Lights Not Working Left turn flasher not working In hopes that the relay was the issue as it was for @ascreighton, I found a relay for 15$ on e-bay and replaced it. Bummer - no change - other than the tone of the blinker. Previously I had replaced the bulbs in the front and rear and those were just fine - they have been working the whole time, just blinking fast. Today I discovered that if I disconnect the rear harness to the left tail-light the relay blinks at the correct speed. Thinking I had isolated the problem, I checked for continuity between the female plug end and the socket of the signal. Both wires had 0 resistance. Hm. Oh and as an aside the dash blinker lights have been out for years... And for what it's worth this fast blinker issue began about a year ago maybe two. For a while it seemed when I had time to work on it it had fixed itself. It hasn't 'self-repaired' in a couple of months now though. Here's another bit I found peculiar: if the headlights are on, the rear harness is disconnected and the left blinker is activated it still blinks fast. - Am I down to tracing wires from the tail-light through the car to the front? What's a good way to check for continuity for the length of the car? Do I just need really long electrodes? I noted the cluster of wires going down through the trunk and attaching to the frame in front of the gas tank. Do I need to cut this all apart to trace these as well? I assume these are ground wires. As for the ones going into the cabin of the car - am i going to need to take out seats, the dash, etc. Not sure what to do next. Check fuses? ECU? I'll be ordering or looking for a book soon on '98 626 electrics. Joy. Any input or recommendations on any of this will be much appreciated! Thanks in advance ~D
  16. hey guys, been awhile since i've needed advice from here, but seems every winter my car likes to act up. went out to start my car and it started fine, ran for about 5 seconds then kinda fizzled out like it was out of gas (the gauge said empty). so i put a gallon gas in so i could get to the station, and it still won't start. still sounded like it had no gas, so i sprayed some ether and it had no reaction as if i didn't spray anything at all. checked the codes and got 4 long flashes a long pause then one short flash and that would just repeat, but im not sure what that means. haven't had a chance to spark test, but the spark plugs are only a few months old, same for the wires, and timing belt is less than year old.
  17. Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone could help me out. I have an air horn I have been meaning to hook up for a while but I cant find the factory horn. Anybody have pictures? Even if someone knows where the wires for the horn are would be awesome :)
  18. I noticed that my 4 year old battery was getting weak, & negative terminal had a bad connection (to the point the crimp was loose and the negative ground wire would actually slip out while driving leaving the battery disconnected on the negative side) After a while I would feel the car lose a tad bit of power (but not stall) while driving and the tachometer would read outlandishly. I replaced that negative terminal and that stopped... Then the battery died, I charged it, and the car started and ran fine once again. This morning the battery died again and the car wouldn't even start with a good fast push and a clutch pop. It wouldn't turn over on it's own either.(I had lights and radio, windows ect) I got a jump from a guy and it turned over but so slow that it didn't start. I gave up and bought a brand new battery, at first it wouldn't turn over so I cleaned the positive terminal and it started up like a champ. I let it run for about 5 mins but as soon as I went to pick up speed, the tach went all crazy again and it died... Turned right back over and started again, so I parked it and let it run. I turned on the heater and the tach went crazy again... I turned it off and it went back to normal... I turned on the heater and headlights, another wild tach show... I gave up AGAIN and bought another terminal for the positive side, it started and gave me the same results. I tried to drive it again and it died and will not turn over. (I still have lights & other ACC) what in the world could this BEEEEEEE???? There and no lights lit on the dash.
  19. I think there is a consistent problem with wiring in my car, an '01 626 I4 LX. My rear speakers seem to be in fine condition, but they only work at random and for short intervals (thus I suspect a loose or frayed wire). My cruise control gave out 6 months ago after demonstrating similar intermittent operation like the speakers, two days ago my trunk release stopped working at the same time my battery died, and today I heard a bizarre, loud crackling sound when I turned off the car. The sound seemed to come from directly behind me, either in the roof or from the rear driver side speaker. Where does most of the wiring on this car go? Is it run through the roof by any chance? By way of diagnosing it, I should note that I had extensive rust damage to my resonator and a good bit of rust on my rear struts, so is it possible that some of the wires may be affected by some kind of rust damage in addition to age?
  20. Hi, I'm new to the Mazda forum so might as well introduce my self. My Name is Paul I live in Australia as a student from Latvia. Few months ago I bought my first car and it is a nice 1992 Mazda 626 2.2l non-turbo auto. I hate that it's auto, most cars in Australia are auto... The second day I had my new beloved Mazda some a**hole got in stole my radio and my car battery. I can deal with that but the problems start here.. Since that asshole stole those things he managed to screw up my electronics. Lights: Non of the interior lights work. When I try to turn on the dome light a "door open" symbol pops up in my dash. The small lights that are on doors when they are opened does not work too. Mirrors: I loved how my car had electric mirrors but they don't work anymore too. Cigarette lighter: Does not work anymore And the biggest problem - Radio. When the prick stole the Radio he just cut the wires off. Normally I would need a convertor from Mazda to Pioneer and pioneer to Mazda if I want to put in a Pioneer head unit. Since the wires are cut can I just connect them as they are? red to red ext. Now I just want to know what I could do to the engine to tune up the performance a bit? Any recommendations? In the mornings it gets a bit chilly and the heater is not working properly and solutions for that? :) Cheers!
  21. HELP!!! My visors wouldn't stay up, so I bought new ones. Pulled too hard when taking driver side off (forgot wire for vanity mirror) and it sparked. Now radio/clock don't work at all, door locks won't work w/o key in ignition and battery seems to be draining (getting increasingly difficult to start and have new battery). All items seem to reset each time I start the car--goes to defrost and trip meter resets. Air conditioner works still. Have checked all fuses and someone checked the relays in the engine fuse box--all okay. Local mechanic doesn't inspire confidence--just says that this shouldn't be related, but how can it not as it all happened the instant I pulled the wire too far. Any ideas?
  22. Hello & thanks for wanting to help me out. I moved to CA & bought an '02 626 to get around but I have to get it smogged but the OBD doens't have power & the room fuse pops the fuse soon as you put it in. Electrical is my weakness & was hoping someone has come across this issue before. I can't think of anything else to add, so please ask if I am leaving anything out. Thanks again! Diagrams: http://mazda626.net/topic/36955-i-have-some-626-diagrams-and-specs-does-anyone-need-them/
  23. My dash lights on my 626 go on and off randomly usually a light tap turns them back on but I'm lost on where to even begin looking any help would be greatly appreciated 98 626 es 2.5 auto
  24. Hi Everyone. My friend used a scan tool and told me it read a Torque Converter Clutch solenoid error code. The car will idle but chockes off as soon as it is put in gear. Where is this located and how to check it? Do I have to pull the transmission? What electrical checks should I make? I am fairly handy with meters and mechanical issues but this is the first time I have ever experienced this problem. Any guidance would be appreciated!! It is a 2.0 auto
  25. so if your having trouble with the driver door window switch rolling up and down other windows, then you probably need to clean the contacts in your window switch, but have no fear a diy guide is here! i did this a while back and meant to make this thread and never got around to it so here we go lol, and i didnt include how to remove your door panel sorry guys.. heres what you want to use its the best stuff to get, when your cleaning the contacts just spray it on and it dries on its own, after you spray the contacts use a cotton swap and a flathead screw driver and scrape the contacts then use the swab to clean it up. so once you have the switch out the top plate cover thing just kinda pops off along with all the switches, do this carefully with a small flathead screwdriver, if you break the tabs on the switches, your screwed :D then very carefully use a flathead to pop the actual switches off, NOTE BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE AUTO WINDOW SWITCH IT CONTAINS SMALL PARTS YOU DONT WANT TO LOSE here is what the inside looks like once you have the switches off you can see how burnt the contacts are, this is normal wear nothing to be alarmed about in order to get the contacts out just turn the whole thing upside down they come right out, or just take tweezers and grab them this window wouldnt roll down fro the switch at all... after you have the contacts out spray the inside of the switch and scrape them too heres a before and after also spray inside the switches where the burnt metal is and there you have it simple guide to cleaning your driver door window switch contacts, thanks for reading everybody!
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