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Found 20 results

  1. So, the seal or gasket, whichever you prefer, that sits between the distributor cap and the rim of the distributor housing, and helps keep water out of the internals, crumbled to dust on my 93 ES. So I pulled the distributor on my parts car, which is a 94 ES, and that one crumbled as well while trying to remove it. I can't seem to find a part number or reference to this other than it being on this one diagram, but not numbered like the distributor, cap, rotor and base O-ring. Anybody have any idea what the correct nomenclature is for this part and if this is something that might still be avail
  2. Hi, My name is Ignacio, I'm from Argentina. I'm an electronics aficionado. I recently acquired a Mazda 626 1992 (i think that's an early 93) 2.0L with AT and 320K in the odometer. The car has seen better days but it works fine. Some time ago it started to develop a symptom when it was hot: It would stall any time given and I was able to hear all relays and injectors clicking. After siting for a few minutes, it would restart and work just fine. After digging into some forums, I concluded that the problem was the ECU. After opening it, I saw all 3 electrolytic capacitors have been lea
  3. So, after sucessfully installing a HEI module with the external coil, I decided I would try to get the KF distributor to work on a KL, simply to get it to look more like the OEM setup instead of having the coil tower sticking out of the distributor cap, and I am also planning on getting a KF ignitor installed later for a cleaner OEM look. I can only confirm this to be working for the 93-94 models of the KL powered cars, but I am pretty sure this will work with the 95-97 aswell! Keep in mind you will have to already have the HEI with external coil installed in order to do this mod!
  4. Hello All ! I have just replaced my cracked distributor with a brand new one. It was running great for a day or so, and then i got a bad series of misfires along with corresponding blinking engine lights. It only seemed to happen once the engine warmed up, I had my mechanic look at it, same thing. It didn't act up until way down the road. Could it me a bad alignment of distributor, or could it possibly me something else such as a spark plug, wires, and or fuel injector issue. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance you Mazda gurus !!! I ALWAYS find GOOD help HERE !!! Sinc
  5. Help! Not a clue what I'm doing but for the money I thought I'd give it a shot. Here's the deal: aquired an 88 626 non turbo 2.2 standard for free. The owner said a spark plug piece broke off and fell on top of piston #3. Didn't bother to question him, he seemed like he knew what he was talking about and whatever, the car was free. I hauled it away and called around to find a new engine. Found an engine from a scrapyard that's a 1991 626 non turbo 2.2 but it's an automatic. I pulled the engine from the 88, swapped the clutch plate with the flywheel from the automatic and all that jazz, bolt
  6. Sputters when idling, rpm guage flutters, happens more when in drive. The car also shakes when in drive, and the intake suddenly got louder. Also my chilton's manual say the sparking order is different than its set up but the distributor cap is labeled so idk which one is correct, i changed sparkplugs and wires and it started making a light knoicking noise a few days later. Any help greatly appreciated, my only car
  7. So I have a manual '96, and a few weeks ago my check engine light came on for a misfiring in my first cylinder. So we replaced the spark plug (just the first), and all of the spark wires and the issue seemed to be fixed, though the check engine light was still on. It has been running fine other than a blown gasket and accompanying problems (mostly just smoking and cooling issues, but when the heater is on there's little to no effect on driving). But today the engine wouldn't turn over. So we checked the fuel injectors, pump, and spark plugs, all appear to be fine, so we're assuming I'm having
  8. 1992 626 V6 2.5 manual KL (should be same as 1993-1997?) 88,000km(55,000miles) the car has been parked since 2007(8 years now) symptoms: takes long ignition on starter to start, about 5-7 seconds. cold or warm. hesitates when gas on low speed. chokes when releasing gas pedal. pros: engine never dies. holds good idle. the fuel pump sounds working good New: ignition cables, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter suspected distributer issue? or could it be a sensor?
  9. I' starting to have an issue with my 626, but its hard to pinpoint on my own right now seen as its summer and 99% of my driving is on the motorcycle. The last two times I drove my 626, It started and ran fine up until about a few miles from home after work, a 45-50 mile drive. It kind of started chugging and I noticed as it did this, the rpms dropped to zero and then kicked back up to the engines speed. Since I was close to home the first time, I left it on the side of the road and went to an appointment I had on the cycle. When I returned about an hour later I looked at things and noticed
  10. So, I woke up Thursday and it didn't start. I've been down that road before so I figured It was the coil or the crank sensor. I went and pulled a disty from a '02 melinia and threw it in along with a brand new crank sensor. NO START. I thought it was a spark toning issue but it turns out that there is only one way to instal the disty and rotor button, so it'll only go on the PROPER way. I have no idea why I can't get this thing to run.. Any assistance people?
  11. well when one door opens, another one closes in my case i guess. had a no start situation and had to replace my distributor. everything went well and the car started right up, but i noticed my tach wasn't working anymore. from what I've read, it runs to one of the two harnesses on the distributor. the smaller one's orange plastic inner boot broke off inside the old distributor, so im thinking that's the one and it's just not making a good connection or something. is there anywhere i can buy new harnesses? or would i have to go to the junkyard and cut one off to use? yeah, i know it
  12. Hello, I have several questions that need answering. I live 'downunder' in New Zealand Firstly: I cannot see a category for my vehicle. I assume that this means that the 2ltr 626/telstra vehicles were not manufactured to be sent to USA but a 2.2ltr model produced instead??? Secondly: While I am more familiar with the ignition wiring on vehicles with points. I cannot figure out how the 'more modern' 1991 system works inside the distributor cap??? Where is the condensor? How does it generate a spark? Thirdly: I have tested to see if there is power to the positive terminal on the coil and
  13. The car was struggling to start for a couple of weeks, but always came through and started for me. So, I put some fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank and after a couple of days, the engine would crank but not turn over. I let it rest for a day and tried it again with no luck. I tried it again today and it almost turned over. I popped the hood and found some water on my distributor cap, after opening the distributor cap the was a little pool of oil inside. Right now there are so many routes to go with this, so does anyone have any suggestions?
  14. About 4 or 5 months ago I had the distributor replaced on my 1997 Mazda 626 lx 2.5 5 speed. We took it in, got it swapped out and put in a new radiator while it was in. Now, the symptoms I was having when my distributor last went out have come back. I'm taking it to the place we got it fixed last time (not the dealer) tomorrow, but I just want to see if anyone has had this happen to them, and if so what caused it? I've had no problems with my car other than this happening last time. It only has 50k miles on it, so it has plenty of life left. I've always thought Mazda's were reliable, but it se
  15. Ok so the other week car was fine went to the petrol station to buy smokes and she wouldn't start. Nrma came out and said distributor had probably packed it in. Mechanic said he pulled two codes but wouldn't say which ones because I wasn't going to pay 500 $ for them to replace the distributor. Got car towed home bought a new distributor put it in and still no go. It has recently replaced plugs and leads so thats not a problem. I pulled codes myself and it came back throttle position sensor. I haven't tested it yet but I don't know whether that could cause a no spark. I just keep coming back
  16. Hello, I am looking for some help with my son's 1994 Mazda 626. It is a manual trans 2.0. When we bought the car is was having some difficulty starting. After a few days it just will not start. It cranks over just fine but never catches, then after a couple tries you can smell fuel. When it was starting, it usually took a couple tries and when it caught, it would idle rather high for longer than what I would think would be the "warm up" higher idle. It also would seem to burn off some additional fuel due to trying it a couple time. Anyway, so far we have tried the following; Plugs, Wires,
  17. Car was driving just fine yesterday, until this morning my car wouldn't start after several attempts. It was unusual, it was working perfectly yesterday without any abnormal signs that the car may fail, and wallah! no start. -Cranks but no start -There is fuel pressure after trying to start it -But.....no spark -Code reader says p1345 cam/crank sensor no signal or cylinder discrimination -I suspect the distributor is faulty. -I had to have someone else test the distributor because I am not 100% sure if I'm right when I was testing it and besides, the other guy had a fancy $1500 snap on
  18. got a 93 mazda 626 dx but the motor blew.. im having a "mechanic" replace the motor.. well all he found was a toyota celica gt motor (5S-FE) so he has it all installed and it will start if he hooks the distributor to the batter ( idk how he did it just repeating what i was told) we need to find out how to wire up the distributor and alternator.. any help would be great
  19. I have a 93 mazda 626 with the 4 cylinder engine. The engine is blow in it and i am going to get a used engine from a local salvage yard. If i get a newer style engine with the coil packs can i pull out the plug in the head where the distributor would go and chang the exhaust cam? Or would i have to pull the head off of my old engine? All of the places around here only have the newer engines with the coil packs.
  20. I bought a spare coil, Pick up/Ignition module, & rotor cover. I bought a brand new cap & rotor button along with brand new plugs & wires all after the car left me stranded & wouldn't start. After installing the new parts the car started but ran rough. Then it shut down again. I switched module/pick up and it ran smooth then started to drop RPMs and run rough while idling I adjusted the throttle and it idled at like 1200 RPM but it was smooth. I took a 15min trip and stayed where I was for about 3hrs but when I went to start it it just cranked and wouldn't start. After about an
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