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Car

Found 20 results

  1. So, the seal or gasket, whichever you prefer, that sits between the distributor cap and the rim of the distributor housing, and helps keep water out of the internals, crumbled to dust on my 93 ES. So I pulled the distributor on my parts car, which is a 94 ES, and that one crumbled as well while trying to remove it. I can't seem to find a part number or reference to this other than it being on this one diagram, but not numbered like the distributor, cap, rotor and base O-ring. Anybody have any idea what the correct nomenclature is for this part and if this is something that might still be available out there somewhere? I suppose I could just run a bead of sealant around the base of the cap, but I'd be a lot happier if I could find an OEM or aftermarket replacement instead. Thanks.
  2. Hi, My name is Ignacio, I'm from Argentina. I'm an electronics aficionado. I recently acquired a Mazda 626 1992 (i think that's an early 93) 2.0L with AT and 320K in the odometer. The car has seen better days but it works fine. Some time ago it started to develop a symptom when it was hot: It would stall any time given and I was able to hear all relays and injectors clicking. After siting for a few minutes, it would restart and work just fine. After digging into some forums, I concluded that the problem was the ECU. After opening it, I saw all 3 electrolytic capacitors have been leaking for some time. I replaced the capacitors, mended all corroded traces and replaced some SMD components that have been eaten by the acid. After fixing (kind of) the ECU, the car wouldn't stall any more but it developed a new fault: it would not crank when cold. To start the car I have to repeatedly pump the gas pedal and eventually it starts and idles just fine. I assume that the "pumping" movement (that eventually moves the TPS) creates the required crank signal to start the car. This model has the coil and sensors built in the distributor. My question is: Does anyone have the pinout for this distributor? Does anyone know what sensors does the distributor have inside? crank and/or cam? My ECU is a Mitsubishi FS36 with 3 yellow connectors (photo attached). Does anyone have the pinout for it? I was looking for them in the forum but couldn't find them. Seems that there are a large types and brands of ECUs and Distributors for this car out there. Unfortunately here in Argentina is nearly impossible to have an ECU replacement for this car. Sorry for my English and thanks in advance! I really love this car and I intend to keep it running! Ignacio
  3. So, after sucessfully installing a HEI module with the external coil, I decided I would try to get the KF distributor to work on a KL, simply to get it to look more like the OEM setup instead of having the coil tower sticking out of the distributor cap, and I am also planning on getting a KF ignitor installed later for a cleaner OEM look. I can only confirm this to be working for the 93-94 models of the KL powered cars, but I am pretty sure this will work with the 95-97 aswell! Keep in mind you will have to already have the HEI with external coil installed in order to do this mod! So, what you'll need for this tutorial is: KF distributor with external coil (This has a 4 wire plug instead of a 3+6 like the KL, keep in mind some KF's have internal coil so be sure it's the right one before getting one!) Preferable a new distributor cap and rotor, this is not needed if you get a new distributor or the old one is still good, but if it's used I highly recommend to get a new one. A new 4 wire plug (I got mine from http://www.cycleterminal.com, it's called "Female DL 090-4B" and is listed under "Connectors->DL 090 Series->4 pin DL 090 Female Connector", http://www.cycleterminal.com/dl-090-series.html) Standard tools, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm wrenches (or pipe), Phillips PH2 (or similar) screwdriver, and a small flathead screwdriver. So, we'll start with the hard part, the repinning of the 6 wire plug. Now the repinning is fairly easy, in order to go it you'll have to take the old pins out, or cut the wires and add the new terminals from cycleterminal on (this is selv explainatory so I am not going to show you how to mount them) The KL plug looks like this: And the KF like this: What you have to do is move Pin 1 from the 6 wire plug to Pin 1 on the 4 wire plug, Pin 2-Pin 2, Pin 3-Pin 3, Pin 4-Pin 4 super easy huh? KL Pin 1 -> KF Pin 1 KL Pin 2 -> KF Pin 2 KL Pin 3 -> KF Pin 3 KL Pin 4 -> KF Pin 4 KL Pin 5 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) KL Pin 6 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) Once that is done, the new plug should look like this: Now all you need to do now, is install the new distributor, plug in the 4 wire plug, and connect the plug wires (keep in mind the KF has a different numbering on the cap than the KL) Once that is done you are ready to test, asuming you have connected the coil wire. I've cleaned the wires up since this picture, this was just for testing. I am using a old NGK wire to my SS Blaster Coil, it works for now, but I'll swap it out for a Magnecore later. This was it guys, hope you enjoyed my first guide, if I missed or should include something let me know!
  4. Hello All ! I have just replaced my cracked distributor with a brand new one. It was running great for a day or so, and then i got a bad series of misfires along with corresponding blinking engine lights. It only seemed to happen once the engine warmed up, I had my mechanic look at it, same thing. It didn't act up until way down the road. Could it me a bad alignment of distributor, or could it possibly me something else such as a spark plug, wires, and or fuel injector issue. All help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance you Mazda gurus !!! I ALWAYS find GOOD help HERE !!! Sincere Mazda Warm Regards From Indiana
  5. Seabeemech

    HELP!!

    Help! Not a clue what I'm doing but for the money I thought I'd give it a shot. Here's the deal: aquired an 88 626 non turbo 2.2 standard for free. The owner said a spark plug piece broke off and fell on top of piston #3. Didn't bother to question him, he seemed like he knew what he was talking about and whatever, the car was free. I hauled it away and called around to find a new engine. Found an engine from a scrapyard that's a 1991 626 non turbo 2.2 but it's an automatic. I pulled the engine from the 88, swapped the clutch plate with the flywheel from the automatic and all that jazz, bolted em back together and dropped it back in. Mechanically, everything went perfectly smooth (same platform 88-92) but when I went to connect the wiring harness to the injectors, they didn't mate. My questions are; could I just swap over the entire top end from the last engine? (maximum effort) could I just swap the intake portion of the head from the last engine? and would it work on the new engines head what with the cams, distributor and timing and all that? Or could I just get a new wiring harness and 91 computer that would work in a standard car with an automatic engine setup (I don't even know if that's a thing. I know the engine is the same internally but is an automatics intake/injectors tuned differently or something? Or could I just swap the injectors? (Least effort) What would be the easiest route and who has some insight on how to get this puppy running?
  6. noaheim

    Idle Issue

    Sputters when idling, rpm guage flutters, happens more when in drive. The car also shakes when in drive, and the intake suddenly got louder. Also my chilton's manual say the sparking order is different than its set up but the distributor cap is labeled so idk which one is correct, i changed sparkplugs and wires and it started making a light knoicking noise a few days later. Any help greatly appreciated, my only car
  7. So I have a manual '96, and a few weeks ago my check engine light came on for a misfiring in my first cylinder. So we replaced the spark plug (just the first), and all of the spark wires and the issue seemed to be fixed, though the check engine light was still on. It has been running fine other than a blown gasket and accompanying problems (mostly just smoking and cooling issues, but when the heater is on there's little to no effect on driving). But today the engine wouldn't turn over. So we checked the fuel injectors, pump, and spark plugs, all appear to be fine, so we're assuming I'm having an issue with my distributor. I have googled all the ways I can think of to word this and came up empty handed (except possibly a Ford Probe): Does anyone know of any other cars that use the distributor model Mitsubishi FP13 S3 T2T57971? Or think that we have completely misdiagnosed the issue? Thank you so much!
  8. 1992 626 V6 2.5 manual KL (should be same as 1993-1997?) 88,000km(55,000miles) the car has been parked since 2007(8 years now) symptoms: takes long ignition on starter to start, about 5-7 seconds. cold or warm. hesitates when gas on low speed. chokes when releasing gas pedal. pros: engine never dies. holds good idle. the fuel pump sounds working good New: ignition cables, spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter suspected distributer issue? or could it be a sensor?
  9. ES626

    Warm Start Issue

    I' starting to have an issue with my 626, but its hard to pinpoint on my own right now seen as its summer and 99% of my driving is on the motorcycle. The last two times I drove my 626, It started and ran fine up until about a few miles from home after work, a 45-50 mile drive. It kind of started chugging and I noticed as it did this, the rpms dropped to zero and then kicked back up to the engines speed. Since I was close to home the first time, I left it on the side of the road and went to an appointment I had on the cycle. When I returned about an hour later I looked at things and noticed the intake tube had cracked more. So I wrapped really good with more duct tape, and reinstalled the stock intake system. Drove it home. No issues. The second time, I got to the hr building for my job. When I took off to go to the plant I work in, I got about 150 feet, it chugged rpms dropped to zero and it stalled. Tried restarting, but it just kept turning over. rolled into a parked spot., and messed with a couple things under the hood and tried starting, to only turn over. I disconnected the battery for about thirty seconds, hooked it backed up and it started. Got me to work and back home. Close to home again though it started the chugging. Is this a sign of the distributor going, out of time or what? Never had any vehicle I owned act like this.
  10. McAnic_Chad

    Back Where I (No)Started

    So, I woke up Thursday and it didn't start. I've been down that road before so I figured It was the coil or the crank sensor. I went and pulled a disty from a '02 melinia and threw it in along with a brand new crank sensor. NO START. I thought it was a spark toning issue but it turns out that there is only one way to instal the disty and rotor button, so it'll only go on the PROPER way. I have no idea why I can't get this thing to run.. Any assistance people?
  11. well when one door opens, another one closes in my case i guess. had a no start situation and had to replace my distributor. everything went well and the car started right up, but i noticed my tach wasn't working anymore. from what I've read, it runs to one of the two harnesses on the distributor. the smaller one's orange plastic inner boot broke off inside the old distributor, so im thinking that's the one and it's just not making a good connection or something. is there anywhere i can buy new harnesses? or would i have to go to the junkyard and cut one off to use? yeah, i know it's not important for the car to function, but i hate for stuff not to work properly since nothing else on my car is broken and i wanna keep it that way. thanks.
  12. Hello, I have several questions that need answering. I live 'downunder' in New Zealand Firstly: I cannot see a category for my vehicle. I assume that this means that the 2ltr 626/telstra vehicles were not manufactured to be sent to USA but a 2.2ltr model produced instead??? Secondly: While I am more familiar with the ignition wiring on vehicles with points. I cannot figure out how the 'more modern' 1991 system works inside the distributor cap??? Where is the condensor? How does it generate a spark? Thirdly: I have tested to see if there is power to the positive terminal on the coil and have bought, (second hand) another coil and distributor cap, and tried but when I take a spark plug out and place it in the spark plug lead grounding it on the engine there is no spark when winding over the engine. Any help with any of these issues is much appreciated, Regards Chrispen, (David) P.S. I have attached a workshop manual for 626 forum readers to download, if this is permitted on this site. I found this on the internet some years ago. Some one had painstakingly photocopied each page of their workshop manual. 626_workshop_manual.pdf
  13. sconr002

    1997 Wont Start

    The car was struggling to start for a couple of weeks, but always came through and started for me. So, I put some fuel injector cleaner into the gas tank and after a couple of days, the engine would crank but not turn over. I let it rest for a day and tried it again with no luck. I tried it again today and it almost turned over. I popped the hood and found some water on my distributor cap, after opening the distributor cap the was a little pool of oil inside. Right now there are so many routes to go with this, so does anyone have any suggestions?
  14. About 4 or 5 months ago I had the distributor replaced on my 1997 Mazda 626 lx 2.5 5 speed. We took it in, got it swapped out and put in a new radiator while it was in. Now, the symptoms I was having when my distributor last went out have come back. I'm taking it to the place we got it fixed last time (not the dealer) tomorrow, but I just want to see if anyone has had this happen to them, and if so what caused it? I've had no problems with my car other than this happening last time. It only has 50k miles on it, so it has plenty of life left. I've always thought Mazda's were reliable, but it seems with everyone telling me different I don't know anymore. HELP! I love my car so so so so so much, and I don't want it to be any trouble for me or my family.
  15. Transcend94626

    Help Asap!

    Ok so the other week car was fine went to the petrol station to buy smokes and she wouldn't start. Nrma came out and said distributor had probably packed it in. Mechanic said he pulled two codes but wouldn't say which ones because I wasn't going to pay 500 $ for them to replace the distributor. Got car towed home bought a new distributor put it in and still no go. It has recently replaced plugs and leads so thats not a problem. I pulled codes myself and it came back throttle position sensor. I haven't tested it yet but I don't know whether that could cause a no spark. I just keep coming back to the distributor and plugs and wires etc as the issue. Ideas please!!!!!!
  16. Hello, I am looking for some help with my son's 1994 Mazda 626. It is a manual trans 2.0. When we bought the car is was having some difficulty starting. After a few days it just will not start. It cranks over just fine but never catches, then after a couple tries you can smell fuel. When it was starting, it usually took a couple tries and when it caught, it would idle rather high for longer than what I would think would be the "warm up" higher idle. It also would seem to burn off some additional fuel due to trying it a couple time. Anyway, so far we have tried the following; Plugs, Wires, Distributor Cap, Rotor, Coil. Today we picked up a full distributor at a parts yards and tried it. We are getting spark and the injectors are putting fuel in, it just will not start. The previous owner claimed the timing belt was recently replaced. I have read some about the crankshaft position sensor but I honestly am not sure where it is on that car. Any help is greatly appreciated. Chris
  17. Tiberianx

    Dis Dis Distributor!

    Car was driving just fine yesterday, until this morning my car wouldn't start after several attempts. It was unusual, it was working perfectly yesterday without any abnormal signs that the car may fail, and wallah! no start. -Cranks but no start -There is fuel pressure after trying to start it -But.....no spark -Code reader says p1345 cam/crank sensor no signal or cylinder discrimination -I suspect the distributor is faulty. -I had to have someone else test the distributor because I am not 100% sure if I'm right when I was testing it and besides, the other guy had a fancy $1500 snap on tech scanner tool he wanted to use to test these distributors. He said's it works something like a lab scope and I wasn't sure how it works but I wish they taught me those in my school and sure as hell does make it easier to test things. It even helps to make sure the cam/crank sensor is align right as you install it. Find out the the distributor is really faulty and we just bought a used one $70, 6 month warranty and install it in my car. And the car drives fine again and even idles a little smoother. Here's the picture of the cracked distributor: First time replaced at around 175k miles.
  18. got a 93 mazda 626 dx but the motor blew.. im having a "mechanic" replace the motor.. well all he found was a toyota celica gt motor (5S-FE) so he has it all installed and it will start if he hooks the distributor to the batter ( idk how he did it just repeating what i was told) we need to find out how to wire up the distributor and alternator.. any help would be great
  19. ur_mom

    Swapping Engine

    I have a 93 mazda 626 with the 4 cylinder engine. The engine is blow in it and i am going to get a used engine from a local salvage yard. If i get a newer style engine with the coil packs can i pull out the plug in the head where the distributor would go and chang the exhaust cam? Or would i have to pull the head off of my old engine? All of the places around here only have the newer engines with the coil packs.
  20. I bought a spare coil, Pick up/Ignition module, & rotor cover. I bought a brand new cap & rotor button along with brand new plugs & wires all after the car left me stranded & wouldn't start. After installing the new parts the car started but ran rough. Then it shut down again. I switched module/pick up and it ran smooth then started to drop RPMs and run rough while idling I adjusted the throttle and it idled at like 1200 RPM but it was smooth. I took a 15min trip and stayed where I was for about 3hrs but when I went to start it it just cranked and wouldn't start. After about an hour I got it started and brought it home only to discover that the distributor cap was burnt up. I replaced it and now my new one is burning up too. I checked the grounds. I did several combinations of module/coil cap/rotor button/cap, all the same results. WHAT THE HECK IS WRONG?
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