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Found 8 results

  1. Hey all, Please check my troubleshooting; I believe I have a bad valve. Have I missed any steps? Symptoms: Heavy misfire under load <3Krpm. All gears, esp. from a start Rough idle Analysis: Check TPS for correct resistance from Closed to WOT - passed Check MAF for correct resistance - passed Replaced aged O2 sensors (they were quite old) - no change in performance Checked compression; At normal operating temperature, 145psi 110psi 150psi 141psi (from left-to-right) By my calculation, that's a 27% deficit on cylinder number 2. Warmed up engine, removed oil filler cap, and then dipstick, while running - no smoke or any sort of pulsing from crankcase can be observed Removed valve cover, examined cam lobes - at first thought I had a worn lobe, but they all check out OK. Have I missed any troubleshooting steps, before I start removing the head for a valve job? Thanks!
  2. I have been to 2 Pick-a-part junkyards and have not been able to find a V6 with the KL-G4 cams. I live in Central Indiana so my choices are limited. Does anyone know where I can get a rear cylinder head online for my '99 626 with a V6? Or does anyone have one that they are willing to sell? Thanks!
  3. I am replacing my head gasket and for some reason I cannot turn the crank pulley. All the belts are off and the head is off the engine block. I did forget to put it in neutral, so I just hooked the battery up and shifted it to neutral, but I cannot get the crank pulley to budge. Am I just fighting friction in the cylinder walls and need a bad ass breaker bar or what?
  4. I am in the middle of pulling a 2000 Cylinder Head from a 626, will this fit up to my 1997 626?
  5. I have a 1994 626 2.0L that's needs a cylinder head. I was wondering if there is a better version to choose from. Maybe one that flows better or has better combustion chambers. Also is there better cam options.
  6. must we keep meeting this way? why is it that even a simple parts replacement always ends with me coming here and begging for help? any ways, so i replaced the clutch master and slave cylinders and, as far as i can tell, it all went smoothly. i bled it enough to need a second bottle of fluid, so there's no way there is air in the line, but now my pedal won't return all the way to the up position. the car is 100% drivable, but the pedal only comes up about 3 inches from the floor, and i have to pull it up with my foot another inch or so before it springs all the way back up. it goes in and out of gears fine, but it just feels like the clutch isn't fully releasing. the engine isn't revving like it used to, and just feels like less power is going to the wheels when i accelerate. i tested this by trying to spin my wheels, but couldn't no matter how much gas i gave it and after the second try stared smelling clutch, so i stopped trying. do i just need to adjust the free play? maybe didn't bleed it as good as i thought? or does this look like something more? here's a video of me showing the clutch pedal travel...
  7. My blue 1990 Mazda 626 hatchback disappeared from a repair shop called Innovative Automotive in Sierra Vista AZ, in January 2014. I was just informed the Sheriff's department will no longer look for it, nor have they tagged it as "stolen" in the Motor Vehicles database. The former owners of Innovative Automotive skipped the state, and ripped off a bunch of people. My car was in for an engine replacement, and they had a $1000 down payment from me for that. That disappeared also, of course. I know there's no chance of getting my money back, but I hope my car can be found. It's a blue hatchback, new A/C compressor, rather new radiator, new clutch, working electric door locks and windows, moon roof sealed shut, clean interior in good shape, one headlight and one tail light damaged, paint worn off on hood from blowing sand in Arizona. It was all in great condition, except the engine. Cylinder head was off, and sitting on front passenger-side floorboard. It had to be towed or pulled away from the repair shop. It may have long since been taken across the border into Mexico, or could have been sold for salvage in S. Arizona. It had many parts in very good condition. If you've seen such a Mazda anywhere, or if you see one that fits this description being sold as a parts car, please let me know. My ex and I bought this car new in 1989, and I'm very attached to it. I have its title here, and can prove ownership. Motor Vehicles shows no action on its VIN, so no one has tried to get a salvage title on it. That's pretty uncommon here in S AZ, though, where cars are sold for salvage (or otherwise) without titles, and many cars go across the border into Mexico for repair or parts. Thanks. Feel free to email me directly with any info at: bmontes@iland.net
  8. about two weeks ago I started off for work and when I shifted from 2nd to 3rd my clutch stayed down... I lifted it with my foot and everything felt normal again except for the fact that I had to press the clutch a little further before I felt pressure in it (excessive play). Yesterday I went to Walmart and the same thing happened so I lifted it again but this time the pressure never returned. I had to fight my transmission all the way home. I can only start the car in neutral because it will try to move when it's in gear. I was thinking about just bleeding the clutch but at this point I don't know for sure if that will help any. I found a clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder for cheap ($21 for both re-manufactured) I just honestly have no idea how to put them on but with my experience I should be able to get it right with a little help and advice.... Thanks to anyone who can help.
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