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Car

Found 19 results

  1. Has anyone used an extended output hose on their overflow reservoir? In the event of overflow, the standard hose will spew onto the timing belt. I'd like to run an extended hose that will spew closer to the ground, past the engine. I would also likely have to mount it to the opposing side of the belt, so the hose wouldn't come in contact with the belt. Just curious if anyone has successfully done this. Of course, this does not solve the root of my overflow problem. But as my belt is squealing, and I'm still diagnosing and working towards the cause of overflow, I'd like to secure my investment in a belt replacement.
  2. I have 2002 mazda 626 4 cylinder and I'm trying to find various parts,here goes: 1. First picture is of a vacuum control module ( or something, I don't know what it is) it's located on the passenger side of the intake manifold and has two electrical connectors and ports for vacuum hoses. One of my ports is broke, the car still runs, but im sure it's needed for something 2. Coolant transfer block ( 2nd pic) located on the driver side of the engine block, connects the heater hose, upper radiator hose, coolant temp sensor to the engine. 3. The screws for the valve cover, I'm missing two. Is there a searchable junkyard database I can look at? Can I buy those screws at Autozone? If so, what would the measurment be that I would need to look for. I know it needs a 10mm socket to remove. So 10mm bolts? Any help would be appreciated.
  3. I have a leak coming from a tank on the driver side front of the car. It's not the overflow tank that is leaking, yet it is a small plastic tank with 3 inlet/outlets and a flat red cap. 2 hoses flow from upper left radiator/lower radiator hose bypass. Below cap is inlet for hose going to the overflow. What is this part called as I can't find info or replacement online of locally. Any help is appreciated!
  4. Hey guys, my coolant reservoir cracked awhile back and i replaced it a few months ago, but it cracked again. So for a temporary fix i bypassed it and it worked, but i know i need to get a new reservoir, but i dont want to spend more money on one if it will crack again. im putting in a new radiator this weekend (because i hit a rock while mudding). but why would my reservoir crack like that, would it be because there is too much pressure? another option ive been thinking about is getting an aftermarket one or building one. but since the reservoir is pressurized ill need a pressure cap so it doesnt blow, and what is the other pressure cap for (the one that says not to remove)? and if i did buy one, what one should i get? and if i were to build one, what metal should i use, and how would i regulate the pressure? this is on a 2002 626 es at
  5. Guys, I recently replaced my radiator because I was under the impression it was leaking. It appears I may have been wrong. I found the leak today. It's the metal hose that connects to the smaller radiator in front of the radiator. Looks like the hose runs to the AC compressor. Does anyone know what that part is? I'm really confused here.
  6. Hello everyone, I just purchased my first 1989 Mazda 626 a few months ago and I absolutely love it. The temperature gauge does not work and I don't understand why. The temperature gauge settles all the the way to the left on the cold end and never moves. I tried replacing the temperature sensor and sender. These two were not found on the water outlet, but rather behind the water outlet screwing directly into the engine block. I also replaced the thermostat. Any suggestions? Please help me!
  7. I was driving my 626 the other day and I noticed a burning smell when my heater was on. I got out to check and I could see steam coming out from under the hood. After that I opened the hood to see where the steam was coming from. It seemed like the steam was coming from underneath the engine block. The next morning I started my car up to check what was going on. I opened the hood and looked near the engine and saw coolant dripping down from underneath, but I was not sure exactly where the leak was coming from. Then I turned on the heater to see if I could still smell the same burning smell that I had smelt the day before, but the fans would not turn on. I think the I blew a fuse some how for the fans? I am not sure what would be causing the coolant to be leaking from underneath the engine block.
  8. Hello all. My car has been leaking coolant for about 5 months now. First it was leaking from the resevoir itself (It would over flow). Now it's not leaking from the resevoir and rather from under the engine on the passenger side close to one of the belts. Then when it got super cold about a month ago, the tail pipe started smoking white or blue smoke. It smells sweet like coolant. However, my car has never over heated. At least not since me and my dad changed the radiator about a year and a half ago. It's been fine. I sent pictures to my mechanic of the leak and the smoke. He said he can't be for sure but it looks like it's a blown head gasket. I took several videos and I'll post them below so you can take a look. 2 videos is of the leak and the 3rd is of the smoke from the tail pipe. I've had this damn car since 2010. My dad and I bought it in a hurry because I needed car to get to and from work and school. He admitted that we would have to put in a lot of money into the car to keep it running but I'm done now. The car has been in 2 accidents which salvaged the car both times. (rear end accidents to my car) and I can't keep putting money into a damn lemon that no matter how much money or time I put into the car, it will never be reliable for more than 6 months at a time without giving me problems. SO my question to the community is, how long do you think I have before my car finally just dies or over heats on me (I will continue to keep putting coolant and oil.) OH YEA, this car burns oil so fast, I have to keep putting oil in every 3 days + the thick honey motor oil to keep form absorbing so quickly. I don't have back up money saved (because I keep putting all my savings to this car) and I have such poor credit, I can't get ANY dealership to finance me for a used car. So...I'm good as long as this car is still running but as soon as it dies, I'm screwed. Thanks for reading and I hope to see some useful information from everyone.
  9. Hi, I have a 1998 mazda 626 with a 2.5l v6 engine that i recently replaced, since the day i bought the car it has been spitting coolant out of the overflow hose on the recovery tank. What makes my issue different from others that I have seen is that my vehicle is not overheating. I have replaced the thermostat, water pump, hoses, the head gaskets are fine, the coolant caps are on the right spots and the pressurized one has been replaced recently. I'm just not sure what more could be causing my problem, any tips?
  10. Hey All, For the past few weeks I have been noticing a mysterious but fairly rapid loss of coolant. I have identified the source as this hose coming off my coolant reservoir, which apparently does not connect to anything, or has popped off it's usual spot. I could use some help identifying it so I know where to reattach it, or if I just need to plug it up! I have attached a photo, it is the hose on the right side, the one which loops under the one on the left, again it is not attached to anything and after running the car, it hisses and gurgles and coolant drips out. I looked at my Hayne's manual, but I couldn't seem to figure it out... Please help! http://postimage.org...hdzp7/d3803e07/
  11. Soo the 94 Mazda 626 ES V6... (you all know..) is not giving me a temp reading in the dash board. It use to and yes Iv spoken to a few shops and they all look at me funny... I did nothing to this car besides replace the spark plugs and clean the spark wires. After doing so the car would not turn over (dead battery) replaced it, Turned it on... coolant splatters all over the damn floor. Looked around and under, nothing.... >< 2 shops I went to said it was possibly over flow do to it being a closed system and I unconnecting a hose near the throttle body. Fine, what ever. Let it run for 30mins then drove it past 40mph around the block, no leaks. Okay.. Now the temp reading gauge in the dash is reading below C (never moving up) took it back to the shop (there is 2 on my street) both say that the temp gauge sensor under the hood is not connected to anything (the female connector) I told them.. Thats never been connected to anything (and they agree do to it looking like nothings ever been connected to it but they look at me funny when I tell them the gauge use to tell me the temp till I replaced the battery) one guy told me it could be do to the restart of the system or a ground being moved but he was dead certain no matter what that the sensor that is unplugged should be what gives me a temp reading and is surprised that I was getting a reading befor hand. Soo. My question is... where the heck is the male connection part (the cable end).
  12. I have been having problems since I bought this car. It's a 95 626lx V6. I was having starting/stalling problems so I rebuilt the distributor system (New: Plugs, Wires, Internal Coil, Cap, Rotor, & three different used ignition modules with the cam position sensor built in) that made the car start from a not-starting-at-all state. Then the problems returned. I did the HEI Ignition Module Modification. The car ran for 3 days & went back to stalling/not starting. This time I noticed that the fans would come on when the engine would stop and not restart unless I let it sit. So I decided to un-plug the Engine Coolant Temp. Sensor & try to start it, & it starts right up. It'll run like this for about 30secs then it'll die unless I plug the ECT Sensor back in, & in some cases this will make the car stall immediately, but for the most part starting the car with the ECT Sensor un-plugged & plugging it back in seemed to be working so I kept it up until the O2 sensor was delivered. I put the O2 Sensor on & the car started right up. It ran good for a few days & now has started stalling again & not starting unless the ECT is un-plugged. I would like to put "Sensor-Ship" to an end & just drive my car worry free. I love this car & you don't see many of them I want it in a dependable working state. ANY HELP would be nice thanks. Few details: Duralast HEI Ignition Module mounted & grounded directly to frame NGK Plugs (I forgot what prand wires there are but they're cheap yet brand new) Bosch Cap & Rotor Problems only seem to arise the day after I have pushed the car a bit or after about 3 days of nice n' easy driving & shifting.
  13. Hi, My 1996 2.5L 626 just popped out the radiator cap two days ago while driving it, something I noticed because the serpentine belt started to squeal ('cause it was slipping do to coolant falling onto it). Bought a new cap and installed it, but after a day it did it again, coolant was flowing out the same cap, this time the cap did not pop out. And this second time, the heating gauge in the car panel was moving from overheating to cold back and forth. Also, the hose that goes from the radiator to where this cap is was completely sucked (like if something was sucking from one side but from the other side there was nothing coming or something was blocking the system). Any ideas? a thermostat problem? time to flush the cooling system and replace the coolant? is the radiator damaged/blocked? I have never done this before, so any comment on how to tackle this problem and how to flush the cooling system would be greatly appreciated. I want to do it myself, since just the labor will be $100 if I take it to a car shop. Thanks a bunch
  14. hello, for about a month now, any time i drive my car i loose coolant and i don't know where its going. i have to keep toping off the reservoir with antifreeze. sometimes when im driving it just starts to overheat because all the coolant is gone, and when i check the reservoir theres none in it at all, just some left in the engine. theres a very small amount of smoke coming out the tail pipe, but i dont thinks its enough for the amount of coolant im loosing. (about half a reservoir every other day!) so i dont think its the head gasket. my only thought it that its leaking out a bad hose when it has pressure on it, or that the fill cap's really old so its just evaporizing out cause the seal on it might be bad. it runs perfect as long as theres coolant in it, and i dont think it looses any when its not running
  15. Hey, so I am new to this site and don't really know much about it, but I thought id give it a try. Anyway, my 99 2.5l has been running great until acouple days ago. On my way to work driving about 60mph i saw the temp spike up just past the hot mark, then returned to normal. it did that probably twice during the 30 miles i drove. next day, same thing but a little worse. 3rd day, today, it started to go from normal to hot, from normal to hot, the entire trip. i replaced the thermostat(horrible pain in the neck with all the sensors). drove it for 5 minutes, overheated past hot again and did not return to normal. now i am noticing coolant spewing out of the reservoir along with hissing. could it have developed a pinhole because it over heated, or could that be the original culprit? fans are working fine. also heater isn't blowing hot air. another bad thermostat? faulty istallation job? Any help would be greatly appreciated this is my only ride to work. Thanks!!! additional question, is the reservoir pressurized? if it is losing pressure could that cause overheating?
  16. I tried searching all over the forum about the IAC for a specific question, but it's gonna take forever going through all these posts and I probably won't find the answer. The question is why are there coolant flowing through the IAC? I've read somewhere about warming up the IAC for engine performance but exactly how does that work and want to clarify it?
  17. Hello everybody. I am new to this forum, Mazda 626's and fixing cars in general. If there are any introductory articles that I should read before attempting to DIY, please point me in the right direction. Also, what is the best manual to get for fixing Mazdas? I recently bought a 2000 Mazda 626 V6 (Automatic) with around 160 000 km on it. It was working great for the first couple hundred kilometres. Shortly after buying the car, the CEL came on. I didn't notice anything out of the ordinary at this point. After driving the car a little longer, I noticed a large pool of liquid in my driveway. After a little bit if investigation, it appears I am leaking coolant. The coolant reservoir is well below normal. The leak seems to be coming from behind the firewall, slightly towards the right hand side of the car (the leak is not directly under the engine bay). Besides a bad water pump, what else could this be? I intend on going to a mechanic and getting the CEL code ASAP. Thanks a lot! Hopefully this is the beginning of a lifelong automotive learning experience! Mike
  18. I have a couple of questions in one. This winter, when I blast the heat, it has been coming our warm rather than hot like last winter. It takes almost 20 minutes for my car to heat up, and by that time I'm almost at work anyway. I've had a few people tell me that maybe my heater core needs to be flushed out. Another few people have suggested that my thermostat isn't working and needs to be changed. First, if the thermostat should go, will it remain open to prevent overheating? And second, how will I know it it's broken or not? I want to do a flush of the engine and heater core, change the coolant, and maybe change the thermostat, but want to know what the direct solution might be. The previous owner had the water pump replaced about 3.5 years ago, as I've heard it might be linked to heating problems. I have a 1995 2.0 L standard transmission, just hit 100 K
  19. I was hoping someone could clear up something for me - a few weeks ago, my temp guage went just over the halfway mark, and the water in my overflow tank would bubble up and come out. I opened the radiator filler neck a while after i got home that day, and the radiator was bone dry. Topped it up with about a gallon of water, and drove it, and it dried up after 10 miles. The next morning ran the car - no visible leaks in the engine bay, however, the water was dripping from the exhaust. There were no white clouds of smoke or anything, just a drip from the exhaust during idle, this was not just in the morning and continued for as long as the car was on. I did not use the car.. My mechanics had told me I would need a head gasket replacement. They did it, got it back, and the coolant loss is no more My questions (concerned as it was costly and was repaired fairly quick, and I don't notice too much evidence of heads having been removed) 1) Is it possible that the car did not need a head gasket replacement and there was another way for the coolant to escape into the exhaust (my model does not use an egr system) 2) If it was in fact a head gasket leak is it possible that there was a quick fix radiator additive to stop the leakage into the cylinders as I was told not to change whatever is in the radiator and replace it with coolant Please help. Thanks
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