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Found 5 results

  1. So, after sucessfully installing a HEI module with the external coil, I decided I would try to get the KF distributor to work on a KL, simply to get it to look more like the OEM setup instead of having the coil tower sticking out of the distributor cap, and I am also planning on getting a KF ignitor installed later for a cleaner OEM look. I can only confirm this to be working for the 93-94 models of the KL powered cars, but I am pretty sure this will work with the 95-97 aswell! Keep in mind you will have to already have the HEI with external coil installed in order to do this mod! So, what you'll need for this tutorial is: KF distributor with external coil (This has a 4 wire plug instead of a 3+6 like the KL, keep in mind some KF's have internal coil so be sure it's the right one before getting one!) Preferable a new distributor cap and rotor, this is not needed if you get a new distributor or the old one is still good, but if it's used I highly recommend to get a new one. A new 4 wire plug (I got mine from http://www.cycleterminal.com, it's called "Female DL 090-4B" and is listed under "Connectors->DL 090 Series->4 pin DL 090 Female Connector", http://www.cycleterminal.com/dl-090-series.html) Standard tools, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm wrenches (or pipe), Phillips PH2 (or similar) screwdriver, and a small flathead screwdriver. So, we'll start with the hard part, the repinning of the 6 wire plug. Now the repinning is fairly easy, in order to go it you'll have to take the old pins out, or cut the wires and add the new terminals from cycleterminal on (this is selv explainatory so I am not going to show you how to mount them) The KL plug looks like this: And the KF like this: What you have to do is move Pin 1 from the 6 wire plug to Pin 1 on the 4 wire plug, Pin 2-Pin 2, Pin 3-Pin 3, Pin 4-Pin 4 super easy huh? KL Pin 1 -> KF Pin 1 KL Pin 2 -> KF Pin 2 KL Pin 3 -> KF Pin 3 KL Pin 4 -> KF Pin 4 KL Pin 5 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) KL Pin 6 -> Cut/Remove (goes to OEM ignitor) Once that is done, the new plug should look like this: Now all you need to do now, is install the new distributor, plug in the 4 wire plug, and connect the plug wires (keep in mind the KF has a different numbering on the cap than the KL) Once that is done you are ready to test, asuming you have connected the coil wire. I've cleaned the wires up since this picture, this was just for testing. I am using a old NGK wire to my SS Blaster Coil, it works for now, but I'll swap it out for a Magnecore later. This was it guys, hope you enjoyed my first guide, if I missed or should include something let me know!
  2. So today, i ran out of gas on the side of the road (My gas gauge doesnt work due to previous ownners), so i called a buddy and had him bring me some gas. I put the full five gallons in and tried to crank it but it wouldn't start. It sounded like the engine was turning over but it wouldn't start. So I called my dad and had him come out to meet me, we tried and tried but couldn't get it to crank. We tried starter fluid, more gas, but nothing worked. All of a sudden the engine was just making a whirring sound instead of a turning over type of sound. We tested the spark plug wires, and all of a sudden they weren't sparking. what the heck. so me and my dad end up towing the car home using our tahoe (don't ask) and get it to our backyard. I took of the coil pack and tested it using an ohms meter, but all of the values were within range. i put the coil pack back on reconnected all the wires and all of a sudden they started sparking again. But the engine is still making the whirring sound. at this point when we try to crank the car, a small poof of white smoke has started to come out of the air intake under the hood, We disconnected the battery and reconnected but it still wont. I'm stumped at this point. The car still makes the whirring sound, it still sends out little poofs of smoke, and it still wont crank. Any ideas as to what it could be? Here are some of the things me and my dad have done to the car recently: Timing belt change Water pump change power steering belt alternator belt complete tune up oil change The car has ran great until today when the gas problem happened. NOTE: i was driving through a neighborhood and hit a speed bump when i heard a popping sound, but the car didnt start acting any different. i checked underneath the car but nothing was hanging or broken from what i can see.
  3. So I'm not getting any spark from the coil plug wire. I measure zero volts at the coil. The car was running great and the next day would not start. The starter is strong and engine turns over great. I have fuel, I can jumper the check connector and the fuel pump kicks on. Messing with it one day I hit the ignition switch with a mallet and got it fired up, so I replaced the ignition switch with a new one and now it still won't start. Some things I have replaced with new parts: -Cap -Rotor -Plug wires -Coil -Ignition control module(inside distributor) -Ignition switch(voltage checks good at switch) -checked all fuses and even replaced the main 80amp fuse with a new one I'm kinda frustrated and need some suggestions that I can try, maybe there is a relay or something that I'm missing. The Haynes manuals electrical diagrams aren't helping me much. Thanks
  4. So, I woke up Thursday and it didn't start. I've been down that road before so I figured It was the coil or the crank sensor. I went and pulled a disty from a '02 melinia and threw it in along with a brand new crank sensor. NO START. I thought it was a spark toning issue but it turns out that there is only one way to instal the disty and rotor button, so it'll only go on the PROPER way. I have no idea why I can't get this thing to run.. Any assistance people?
  5. I bought a spare coil, Pick up/Ignition module, & rotor cover. I bought a brand new cap & rotor button along with brand new plugs & wires all after the car left me stranded & wouldn't start. After installing the new parts the car started but ran rough. Then it shut down again. I switched module/pick up and it ran smooth then started to drop RPMs and run rough while idling I adjusted the throttle and it idled at like 1200 RPM but it was smooth. I took a 15min trip and stayed where I was for about 3hrs but when I went to start it it just cranked and wouldn't start. After about an hour I got it started and brought it home only to discover that the distributor cap was burnt up. I replaced it and now my new one is burning up too. I checked the grounds. I did several combinations of module/coil cap/rotor button/cap, all the same results. WHAT THE HECK IS WRONG?
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