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Car

Found 20 results

  1. Okay so I picked up a 97 626 from a friend of mine. They had the clutch replaced it drove fine when I test drove it but once I got it home that's when the trouble started. It's as if the clutch won't stay primed. Already replaced the slave cylinder but didn't solve the problem any tips?
  2. 1997 Mazda 626 4cyl 250,000 miles My car will not shift into any gear while the motor is running.. It will go into gear while the car engine is off and can be started in 1st gear or reverse and will go but won't go into any gears while its just idling... I need help if anybody could shed some light on my problem.New clutch kit and flywheel only 30,000 miles ago so I figure it might be possible that it won't be too complicated but just worried that the tranny has to be dropped for the fix and that won't be cheap.
  3. Okay, I know there are a lot of clutch threads but none seemed to address this. I get in, push clutch to floor (feels good), start car, shift to reverse, back out of driveway, push in clutch (feels good) but won't go in first. Leave it in neutral and let off to pump clutch but it sticks to floor. I can pull it back up with my foot and push back down (feels good) but still can't go into any forward gear. Turn off car, put it in first, restart and can now drive away shifting through all gears fine. Hummm, what is this?? Thanks in advance. FYI: 1996 626, 4cyl, manual (of course)
  4. I bought a 1994 Mazda 626 2L 4-Cylinder 5 Speed Manual about 6 months ago. Recently I've noticed the engine revving by itself between 500 and 2500 RPMs when I engage the clutch and brakes. Today I tried to drive and have lost all clutch pressure. The fluid resevoir is full and doesn't appear to be leaking. The car has stopped revving by itself since the clutch pressure has disappeared. However, the car will stall in first gear if the clutch is engaged. Pumping the clutch appears to restore some pressure until it is again engaged to shift. I've never had this problem before. Can somebody please help! The clutch had good pressure and was halfway up just yesterday.
  5. Bought my '97 626 in September this year, 144K on her, had absolutely no apparent issues..... October comes around and the Check Engine light begins to turn on and off and on at random intervals. Checked for the code and it was a P1506 - Idle Air, Overspeed, Vacuum Leak, etc. A few weeks pass, suddenly the car begins to have issues idling smoothly and she wouldn't turn over properly, some times won't turn over after 5-10 seconds, or would turn over after one go at 'er and it would stall - very rarely I might add.. November comes by and the check engine light turns off.... absolutely no problems what so ever! Ran for 3 weeks beautifully as it came out of Limp Home Mode caused by the Check Engine light. Fourth week of November swings around and suddenly it's back.............. and this time with a vengeance. Regardless of LHM being active due to the Check Engine signal from the computer, the accelerator begins to act really strangely while driving. It won't get to any RPM steadily, it'll go up or down 100-200 RPM. So if I was at 2000 RPM, it'd fall below to 1800-1900 and/or go up to 2100-2200. As soon as I let off the gas, she'd drop extremely quick to 1200 RPM and shudder the vehicle extremely hard all the way to 1200 RPM, and if I was unlucky, drop beyond to 800 and shudder even harder as it fights to get back up to 1200. Now since 3 days ago, the starter is acting up hardcore, some times won't turn over, some times starts and stalls immediately... Some times runs like a champ despite LHM being active.. The most recent and dangerous thing it has done was I'll be driving and as soon as I let off the gas, the car stalls. I've also noticed my dash lights are all coming on when I step on the brake - meters and climate control, even the chime that tells you your dash lights are on gets tripped - and even further, my clutch is making some sort of sliding noise in unison with the lights coming on. To complicate matters further, I can let it sit at idle while warming up, not touching anything and my clutch will make its noise too and it happens far more often when the dash lights are on, less when the headlights are on. (I don't understand that one) All the while idling, those issues going, my idle is also taking sharp dips from 850 to 400-500 also in unison with the clutch and dash lights. I should note that when the noise and lights thing is happening while the idle is taking nose dives, that the lights all dim out. I cannot spot anything obvious or apparent under the hood that's causing ANY of these issues, and even the vacuum leak I have isn't apparent because a smoke test revealed zilch, nada, nothin but as soon as LHM turns off, the car returns to full functionality............... except for this week's issues which remain quite prevalant. All liquids and such are topped off and the air filter is clean and newish. Didn't see any blown fuses. ./thread Also, hello, new to the forums, new-ish to my 626 which seems to hate my guts.
  6. I replaced my slave cylinder about 4 weeks ago (replaced master last Oct.) and the day I did it I noticed that the clutch was making an unusual squeaking sound when engaged, but if I just rested my foot on it it would go away. I adjusted the pin on the pedal and the squeaking stopped. Last night on my way home from work the squeaking returned MUCH LOUDER and was accompanied by a whirling grinding sound when the pedal was pressed in. I could still drive until I got a few blocks from home, that's when the fell to the floor & I could feel a rapid pulse in it. It did and still does return on it's own and the cylinders are both new and not leaking. when the car is not running the clutch feels normal. when I start it, it feels spongy and it has pulsation in it. There is still a grinding sound when I disengage it and a squeak when it is engaged... What could this be? I've never had this problem with any other clutch before so I'm lost...
  7. hello all, well I've unfortunately been having to deal with all the flooding in SC this past weekend and the water has done a number on my car. i was driving at maybe 25 mph and hit a large puddle about 4 inches deep. the car stalled and i have since not been able to get it to start. when the key is turned the solenoid clicks and the starter spins up with a whirling noise and that's it. it seems like the starter isn't even engaging the fly wheel. i've tried push starting it but when the clutch is released the car stops like you've slammed the brakes. could the water have caused my timing belt to slip? the timing belt, alternator, and plug wires are all new and no trouble codes were found.
  8. Quick question: could a clutch intended for the Turbo GT transmissions also work on the N/A transmissions? Reason I ask, I plan on boosting my car at some point, maybe around the 200whp mark or less, I'm shopping around for clutches and I found some that say they work for the GT trans, but don't mention the N/A trans. Looking for some recommendations, Thanks!
  9. I have just bought a 626 lx 2.0L, manual. First time I saw the car and tested it, the clutch fell to the floor when stepped and I had to find a way to pull it back up after every shift but the gear shifted alright. Now that I paid for it and brought it home to fix up, the only way to move the car is when I pick a gear before starting the car. That way, am able to move but on same gear. If I try shifting it wont work and it would kill the engine if i slowed down or used the breaks. So its a one gear per session car (sounds funny from a certain angle. Lol). I bleeded the whole clutch line replaced the slave, the master seems fine, changed part of the line just in case it had breaks but its still same. Am not sure if the transmission fluid could be an issue but I checked around the transmission where the label said "oil" and a F and L level indicator. Am not able to tell if that is where the transmission fluid is. And if I could please be assisted with what type of transmission fluid is best for my car. please help. I just wanna move the car.
  10. Hi all, needing a lil guidance here. Got a 98 626 5M 203k miles. Last tues it quit running. I'm pretty sure its a clutch it needs. I was doing my paper route in it when through the middle of it I go into third gear and it doesn't fully engage (its done this many of times since the 15 months I had it and would also slip out of third gear occasionally when entering a corner, but would engage if you hold the shifter) I put it back in gear and I hear a POP! RIP 3rd gear, will not engage anymore after this point. Car still runs and I still have 1,2,4, and 5 so I skip 3rd. 3/4mi later I start climbing a hill and I start downshifting from 4th. I skip 3rd n go to 2nd. No resistance, no power. I shift to 1st once I stop. Same thing, no more forward and the shifter is stuck. Dammit. I finally free it and re-check the other forwardggears, they're history. I shift to reverse to get car out of street and engage, but I get no movement and the shifter is really stuck now after I engage reverse. I shut off car then try to start again. It tries to crank but immediately stops like a locked motor. Think its just a clutch job or I may need trans work. I really like this car but don't wanna get railroaded at a shop. 3rd gear was the only one that'd slip on me and even when it did, I'd put it back in gear and it'd be fine and pull. 1,2, 4, 5, and R were fine too, never slipped in those gears. Any ideas what else could be bad in there?
  11. I bought my daughter this 1990 Mazda 626 but it needs a clutch. I have never done a front wheel drive and after looking underneath I am not sure if I want to. I have looked into it and from everything I read you almost have to take the engine out and axles. Is this really what you have to do?
  12. Okay so basically a few months ago my '83 2.0 would not engage reverse So for whatever reason we replaced the clutch and would you believe that it still won't go into reverse We have removed as much free play as we can in the clutch cable, to no avail. It seems the clutch is releasing but still somehow reverse clashes and will not engage Can someone please help me I'm pretty desperate right now as I've been confined to my brother's '85 laser for ages and, well, its my brother's... You get the idea
  13. Hey guys, first post here from a proud 626 owner! I've been having an issue with my car's gearbox for some time now (~8,000km), I suspect it to be a bad Input Shaft Bearing (ISB), but it could also be a bad Thrust/Throwout/Clutch-release (whatever you want to call it) bearing or even a pilot bearing (this is less likely). The sound is a whirring/rattle type sound. Now, it only occurs under the following conditions: Clutch pedal not depressed (clutch is engaged) and car is idling. Clutch pedal depressed (clutch disengaged) while coasting. Under acceleration at lower rpm's I can hear it, also after just changing gears. The car is coming up to a service (at 230,000kms) and I was going to just replace the throwout bearing and the clutch at the same time (cause then I don't have to pull the 'box off the car again if the clutch decides to go) but after a bit of research I decided that the most likely (and most expensive!) cause is a bad ISB. I would really appreciate it if you guys could help me out in diagnosing the issue, feel free to ask questions and such too. I could also record and post a video if it would help :) FYI: The car is a 2000 Mazda 626 5-speed. (AUS spec/G25M-R) Here's a pic of my car just for the fun of it :)
  14. Hi there; The mtx on my 98 2.0L 626 is on its way out and I'm preparing for a swap. While I'm in there, I plan on replacing the clutch and rear main oil seal. Can anybody give me a list of special tools needed to get to the rear main oil seal? Also, a good place to acqure/borrow/rent these tools from would be nice as well. Thanks. -Kevin
  15. I'm having an issue with acceleration in 4th gear. shifting from 1st gear to 2nd gear, fine. 2nd to 3rd, fine. 3rd to 4th, surprisingly fine. A few hundred RPMs after switching into 4th gear, no acceleration without forcing the gas to the floor. After flooring it, the RPMs go red line. Any thoughts on the matter will be appreciated. thank you,
  16. hey, ive noticed for awhile that when i try to accelerate quickly, my clutch pedal wont return all the way and it feels like im not getting full power from the engine. i have to let off the gas, and then the pedal will pop back the rest of the way. it doesn't happen all the time, and it only happens when starting quickly in first gear. it just feels like something just isn't letting the clutch fully engage under hard starts.
  17. Okay so I have no clue when it comes to my car. However recently my 96 626 ES shut off randomly in a parking lot. I had it towed to a mechanic who said that it was my distributor, I got it replaced and everything was fine. For a few weeks before my car conked out I was noticing that whenever I was driving instead of performing when I depressed the pedal the car would almost like slip. The car will jerk back not hard but enough to notice. So for example when I put the car into first gear and start to slowly move it pulls back and hiccups a bit. The rpms don't rev up or slip down they stay in the normal range. When I change to second gear and press the pedal a little harder it does the same thing. Even when i'm in fifth gear on the interstate with cruise control on and my car tries to accelerate I can feel it being sluggish. God forbid i want to go a bit fast because the car will be sluggish and barely responsive. I have noticed that when the rpm's reach 3.5X1000 the car will clean it's act up and go. I'm sorry if this isn't clear, it's just really hard to explain. Now after the service the problem still occurs. I'm not sure if it is the clutch slipping? Or the transmission? Maybe?? I've always put 89 octane gas in because it runs terrible on low grade. The car only has 91,700 miles on it if that makes a difference.
  18. about two weeks ago I started off for work and when I shifted from 2nd to 3rd my clutch stayed down... I lifted it with my foot and everything felt normal again except for the fact that I had to press the clutch a little further before I felt pressure in it (excessive play). Yesterday I went to Walmart and the same thing happened so I lifted it again but this time the pressure never returned. I had to fight my transmission all the way home. I can only start the car in neutral because it will try to move when it's in gear. I was thinking about just bleeding the clutch but at this point I don't know for sure if that will help any. I found a clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder for cheap ($21 for both re-manufactured) I just honestly have no idea how to put them on but with my experience I should be able to get it right with a little help and advice.... Thanks to anyone who can help.
  19. Can someone help my find the clutch master slave cylinder on my 98 626 4l ?? . My clutch pedal is stuck and i was told the solution would be to bleed the clutch.
  20. I am selling a few new parts for the 2.0 4cly engine. I MAY PART OUT THE WHOLE CAR SO DONT BE AFRAID TO ASK i have a head gasket kit still in its origional plastic sealed, with all the gaskets and seals needeed to do the job. I also have brand new head bolts still in the box. Pending I also am selling a brand new master cylender. I have a used fuel rail too. any questions or anything feel free to ask. and i can post pics if anyone wants them. make me offers....im willing to work something out with pricing....i just want to get rid of them. thanks for looking
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