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Found 5 results

  1. Hi all, I have a 2001 mazda 626 lx. Engine light came on Tuesday evening & when I plugged my scanner in it did not bring up a code. Had my boyfriend take it to autozone yesterday while I was at work & their scanner brought up code: P0421. They informed him that it was nothing serious & simply cleared it. I searched Google & found that it could be catalytic converter or o2 sensors? Cars drivability had not changed before or after engine light. I got into the car this AM to leave to work & it took a minute to start up which had not happened before. Drove to the coffee stand just fine. But as I was in line & my card & drink were handed back to me it shut down & would not turn back on. Again no symptoms prior. I was told that there would be a smell if it was the converter, no smell. No problem starting up prior to this morning. Looking for some help as I'm not a car girl haha. Don't know as much as all of you on here, I'm sure. Any help is greatly appreciated as I'm in a bind at the moment & have work again Monday morning & an out of state trip next Thursday. Thank you so much!!!!!
  2. Hi Guys, I'm having a problem finding an aftermarket exhaust manifold/catalytic converter for my 2001 626. It's a manual transmission. Do they require a special fit for the catalytic converter? I can't find any listed specifically for manual transmission but I already got two replies from websites that told me their cat would not fit a manual transmission. Getting ready to call Mazda, but can't afford their part I'm sure.I see Cats for radiator side and firewall side. I know it's not the rear as it's the one in the front that has a hole. Gay V 2001 Mazda 626 9 years 170,000 miles
  3. I have a 1992 V6 2.0ltr Cronos (626) that will now not start after it had the catalytic converter overheat. I have replaced the converter with a resonator and still it will not start or run. I have checked for spark and fuel & it has both of these. I have replaced the ECU as I thought it might have been that but still it would not start or run. I have pinned the diagnostic plug to see what error code/s come up but it would not show me. It is as if the computer has no power to it. When I pinned it the radiator fan kicked in and was running constantly does anyone have an idea as to what it may be? I am thinking it may be the oxygen sensor is stuffed as it had the cat converter glowing red hot when it stuffed out and when it was replaced there was a rush of gas fumes out of the exhaust system which had been trapped. Up until this happened it was running perfectly fine with no troubles at all.
  4. My car recently started sputtering (hesitating, bucking) on occasion when I accelerate from a full stop. Additionally, it occasionally seems to temporarily lose speed when driving at a constant high speed. Right now these are merely annoying, but I fear long term effects. Check engine light has been on since I've owned it (Mech said its Cat Converter and another mentioned the IAC). At first, my car seemed to have plenty of power and though my idle RPM is low (500-600) it doesn't stall. So i asked some people and they said don't worry until I lose power or experience a stall. So here I am. The engine had a major vibration problem... all the mounts have been replaced so its better, but it vibrates when stopped with the A/C on (no prob w/ A/C off). Also, at about 71+ mph I notice a kind of cyclic pattern of vibrations coming through the steering wheel and the gas pedal. The vibrations come in 1-1/2 second intervals about a 1-1/2 seconds apart from each other. Just got wheels aligned, so I think its coming from the engine somewhere. I've done some basic research and the internets tells me that a bad TPS, a bad MAF, a bad IAC, a bad cat converter, or a bad oxygen sensor can all produce most of these symptoms. IACs are expensive, I have no idea what a TPS or MAF is or where it is, but I am comfortable with replacing the cat converter (not sure about the O2 sensor). Thus, I want to replace the cat, but is that actually the problem? In my mind, it could be the IAC blocking some intake (just a guess), or it could be the Cat blocking the output and backing it up, or it could be (one of?) the O2 sensor(s) throwing all the proportions out of whack. Are any of these ideas easily eliminated? Are any of these easily verified? I also noticed that the sputtering on acceleration came two days after my battery died and I replaced it; could it be that some computer/sensor somewhere got out of whack when it lost power for a while? I'm gonna poke around and get autozone to pull the codes in the morning, but I figured I'd vent a little of this overwhelmed feeling before I went to bed and hope for an angel in the night ;-)
  5. Hi everyone, Just bought this car yesterday from a friend who wanted to sell this car and I bought from him since he is trustworthy. But it is NOT. Anyway... Car details : Mazda 2002 lx 4 cylinder. Odometer: 140000 5 mins after I bought the car and I had done about 5 miles, 'Check engine light' came up. I was in a highway but had to cover another 25 miles. Somehow did it and checked with PepBoys (they had free check engine light promotion) and found that the code is P0421. Googled a bit and got little knowledge. One of my local dealer had a free inspection offer, so I went and showed. He said it is catalytic converter needs to ber replaced, blah blah blah etc. Found cost very high. Apart from this vehicle has other issues such as shocks, bearning, front vehicle mount (all told by the dealer mechnic but I got confirmed with another local mechanic). The reason I bought was to use about 5 miles everyday and around 40-50 miles over weekend. I am now confursed whether I should repair or just use it till it dies. Can someone suggest if I I can use it as it is for few more months? What are the cons with using as it is? Also how to remove this 'engine light' ON. Are there any tools or tricks? Sometimes I think of buying another vehicle by trading in this with dealers. What you guys think? If I want to repair that what are the typical expenses? Googling catalytic converter shows lot of varying prices (starting from 100$ but dealer quotes 600$+) and I am confused where to buy? I stay in NJ (northern NJ) and are there any good / economical mechnics or repair shops? I dont' want to spend much as I already paid 1500$ for the car. This is my first car and I have very little knowledge about the issues, where to buy the parts, how to look for best parts/pricing, where to repair etc. Please suggest.
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