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Found 3 results

  1. Hello Everyone, I own a 1997 Mazda 626 4Cylinder, and although I have tried my best to keep up with it, lacking proper funds to make repairs over the few years as i should have, I've recently run into a debilitating issue. While driving a couple weeks ago, I lost charge voltage, as well as loss of acceleration and power steering. I managed to get home, and after attempting to salvage the alternator I had, I ended up replacing it. The alternator was in bad shape, damaged brush, one of the coil wires came undone, and I'm thinking there was regulator damage, but i can't be sure. In any case, I replaced the alternator and was getting good voltages again. I'm driving to work and encounter the issue again, so I stop and do some checking of the wires and voltage at the battery. Then I notice one of the belts quite literally stopping while the engine was running. The AC compressor was seizing. i turned off the AC and removed the relay (so i wouldn't turn it on out of habit as I live in Florida...). I was still having issues however. I bought a smaller belt and took the compressor out of the loop. After all this, I got good voltage at the battery, and didn't lose power steering. Although I was getting closer, I was still having issues with acceleration. I've had a couple codes for a while for the Catalyst warm up efficiency and the downstream o2 circuit, and stupidly never took care of it. However after checking the computer, I had two new codes I'd never seen. P0400 Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Flow P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit Prior to the aforementioned issues, these two codes had NEVER shown up. I pulled the EGR valve (damn it was clogged...) and cleaned it out. I reinstalled the valve and disconnected the downstream o2 sensor and checked the connections, which looked good. Reconnected it, and cleared the computer. After driving it, I still can not accelerate, and so far, only the P0340 code has returned. Given what i've been reading, I'm sure this is what's causing my inability to accelerate. Another thing I noticed though, is that while coasting or sitting idle , is that the engine has vacuum, but if i push the peddle to accelerate, it moves towards 0 but then mid acceleration it climbs back to high vacuum. Is this normal? I have almost no money, I can't really afford to buy a new car, and I can't afford a mechanic. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. As it stands right now, I still have to drive it because I have to get to work. I'm babying the accelerator for the time being, and avoiding situations where i would have to accelerate quickly. Thank you for your time and patience with me! I have severely limited knowledge and limited tools, but... I'm trying lol also, the voltage in one of the images, is voltage at the OBDII interface, with the radiator fan and lights on. The voltage at the battery is of course higher.
  2. On the 98+ 2L's, what does the camshaft position sensor read, the camshaft gear teeth, or that bump on the camshaft that goes by once per revolution? I trying to figure out how often I should see the sensor switching from low to high on my scan tool.
  3. My little 1998 Mazda 626 2.0L (automatic), which just recently turned over 200k miles, died while I was driving on the freeway. There were no new vibrations, warning lights, noises, smoke or anything else indicating a problem immediately preceding the power loss. There was still a quarter tank of gas, the temperature was fine, the oil had been changed in the last 2 months and battery and alternator seem to be fine. She does have a small oil pan leak so we keep a close eye on the oil and there is also a very mild transmission fluid leak which I have been concerned about as there has been a slight hesitation between gear shifts upon acceleration. She also does run a bit rough, but when my husband checked it out, he couldn't see any obvious problems. We got her towed back to the house but have not been able to get her restarted. The code reader brought up P0340 - CMP sensor circuit malfunction. We replaced the camshaft position sensor but she still won't start. The engine cranks like she's trying to start up, but there's no spark or it's not catching to start up. We did get a workshop manual and upon looking up the code and it states if the engine won't start then P0340 is not the cause and to go to engine symptom troubleshooting #5. Soooo before we go through all the bazillion steps that the guide has listed (which I did type out below), I was hoping there was a car guru that could possibly point us in the right direction? Or maybe someone with the same car that has had a similar issue and found a simple solution? I would really appreciate it as I love my little car and don't care that she's been totaled out by insurance companies twice and has 2 different color doors, peeling paint and 200k miles. But we don't have a ton of money to waste on guessing at parts and cannot afford to pay to have her officially diagnosed at a shop (which would require figuring out how to get her to the shop anyway). My father and husband can perform most automotive repairs and are very good at it as long as they know what needs to be repaired. (My dad spent many years as a bus mechanic.) Thank you so much in advance for any advice you can give us (unless you are telling me to junk her cuz that would break my heart)! Ok so this is what the workshop manual says.... Engine Troubleshooting #5 - CRANKS NORMALLY BUT WILL NOT START POSSIBLE CAUSES - Operation of immobilizer system (which I do not have) Air leak from intake air system Improper operation of IAC valve No signal from crankshaft position sensor due to sensor, related wire or incorrect installation Spark leak from hightension leads PCV valve malfunction Restriction in exhaust system Open or short circuit in fuel pump and related harness Fuel pump injector clogged No battery power supply to PCM Open PCM ground or vehicle body ground EGR valve malfunction Low engine compression Vacuum leak Poor fuel quality Air cleaner restriction Disconnected electrical connector disconnection Inadequate fuel pressure Fuel leak from injector Purge solenoid valve malfunction STEP 1 (directs us to step #12 since the car does not have an immobilizer system. STEP 12 - Verify following: External fuel shut off or accessory (ignition switch, alarm etc). Fuel quality: such as proper octane, contamination, winter/summer blend. No air leaks from intake air system. Proper sealing of intake manifold and components attached to intake manifold: EGR valve, IAC valve. Ignition wiring. Electrical connections. Fuses. (We are about to start this step, but as I stated, would greatly appreciate it if someone could point us in the right direction and save us a lot of time and money!)
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