Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'caliper'.
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Hey. Im new here. This past summer i bought an 02 626 ES. i have been doing all my own repair. And now i need new brake pads. I went to do it today but im having troubles. i found the little allen screw behind the bolt for releasing the piston. i was turning it and it turned fairly easy but the piston never retracted. and when i pulled the allen wrench out, the hex screw came out too, only it wasnt a screw. it doesnt have threads, it has a gear on the end. but the teeth were mashed up a little. i took it to the grinder and ground it back to where it wasnt mashed anymore, then tried retracting the piston again. but the gear mashed up again. is that hex gear screw supposed to come out? and would i be able to spray inside the hole with penetrating oil? or would i need a new caliper? and if so what is a good caliper to get without spending tons of money? Thanks. I really need to get this fixed asap Also my hand brake has never worked properly. my rear right tire will brake but not lock up and the left side does nothing (the side im having troubles with) would this cause the hand brake to not work too?
My drivers side rear brake caliper won't slide off the pin. It was hard to pivot in order to replace the pads, after the pads were replaced, the caliper started leaking so I needed to replace it. I assume that it is rusted onto the pin at the bottom of the bracket. I sprayed some PB blaster on the pin itself where it slides into the caliper. I really need to be back on the road, I'd hate to have to go buy a caliper bracket as well. If all else fails, I'll go back to the junk yard and buy the bracket too. if any one has had any problems like this before I'd like some advice on how you got it off. Thanks.
About 10 months ago, I decided that my hand brake was not really doing its job so I tightened it up via the bolt in the centre console. Probably not the greatest solution... In any event, a month or two later I began to notice an ever-so-slight pulsing on the brakes when they were applied. I did not feel any pulsing in the brake pedal or steering wheel. It was more that I could feel it in the momentum of the braking of the car. And as the car slowed to a stop, the Pulses per Second (PPS ) would slow down accordingly. Kind of like: Pulse-pulse-pulse-pulse-pulse-puulse-puulse-puuulse-puuuuuulse-puuuuuuuuuu-stop. Figured I had a warped rotor and I'd fix it next brake job. All pads still have a few mm left in them. Fast forward a few months to where I take a long drive to Adelaide. As I come down out of the Adelaide hills, it's getting really bad. By the time I make it to flat ground at the bottom, it's worse than I've ever seen. It has been getting progressively worse since then. As the brakes warm up, it gets noticeably more severe. Eventually, I remembered tightening my hand brake and figured maybe I'd over-tightened it which meant the caliper(s) back there were always slightly applied. So I backed it right off. It's not a very useful hand brake any more but whatever. The problem actually seemed to get quite a bit better. For a while there was all but no more pulsing. Then on an hour long drive into Melbourne, it kinda started coming back and by the time I got to my destination the brakes were making almost a kind of grinding noise as I came to a stop, especially if I hit them hard. Not a scraping but a grinding and the pitch of the grinding lowered as the vehicle slowed. As well, I previously was asking about alignment issues as I have a slight pull of the car to the right (which would be like a car in the US pulling against the camber of the road, to the left). I thought perhaps the issues were related but it seems they're not. So: - Pulsing brake. NOT felt in the pedal or steering wheel. - Gets worse when brakes are heated. - Had the hand brake over tightened but have since loosened it. - Pads all have a few mm left in them. - A new grinding noise has started if I hit the brakes kinda hard. - Car pulls a bit to the right (equiv to pulling to the left in the US).