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Car

Found 9 results

  1. homelesshomie

    Rear Brake Caliper Help!

    Hey. Im new here. This past summer i bought an 02 626 ES. i have been doing all my own repair. And now i need new brake pads. I went to do it today but im having troubles. i found the little allen screw behind the bolt for releasing the piston. i was turning it and it turned fairly easy but the piston never retracted. and when i pulled the allen wrench out, the hex screw came out too, only it wasnt a screw. it doesnt have threads, it has a gear on the end. but the teeth were mashed up a little. i took it to the grinder and ground it back to where it wasnt mashed anymore, then tried retracting the piston again. but the gear mashed up again. is that hex gear screw supposed to come out? and would i be able to spray inside the hole with penetrating oil? or would i need a new caliper? and if so what is a good caliper to get without spending tons of money? Thanks. I really need to get this fixed asap Also my hand brake has never worked properly. my rear right tire will brake but not lock up and the left side does nothing (the side im having troubles with) would this cause the hand brake to not work too?
  2. pixelpadre

    Rear Brake Drum Removal

    Just did a rear brake job on my 96 626LX. Drum has two silly screws to hold the drum on. Of course they were froze up. I used a solid philips screw driver and a pipe wrench on the screwdriver and they came right out. But the drums were frozen on and werent coming off. After a little bit of research I learned there was a threaded 10mm hole on the drum. Inserting a bolt and turning it a few times, then tapping with a hammer did the trick. There are no videos on 626 rear brake shoe replacement. It wasn't a fun job, but brake shoes never are. The mazda 626 doesnt have what I would call a standard layout of springs and adjusters. Gone are the days of backing up in reverse to adjust your brakes. Now there is a spring loaded cam that constantly keeps pressure on the brakes. Nice idea. Clip are still a nasty pain in the arse too. Why can't someone invent clips that work effortlessly?
  3. So my ebrake makes a really weird noise when i pull it up. What could this be? it sound like its under my car or somthing but i cant tell IMG_0204.MOV
  4. mikerichx3

    A Couple Of Repairs

    Hello Mazda 626'ers, I just joined the forum recently, I have always looked on here for research for my vehicle. I have a couple questions in a nutshell about repairs and future ideas for my vehicle. I drive a 2002 626 and #1? I hear a weird sound coming from the driver side hissing at a slow speed and while driving near a wall or fence I hear it more. #2? When it rains or its very moist outside my brakes are grinding and sounding awful. #3? When I brake I feel vibration from the pedal people said my rotors are good looking idk how to fix that? #4? When I am driving 10 to 20mph the car makes a weird whirl noise if I let go of the pedal what is that? #5? When I purchased the Mazda it has keyless entry fob and I didn't receive the keyless entry and the dealer is charging a high rate of 170 for it to be programmed and the key? How can I do it myself I know I need a transmitter key and obviously the keyless entry buttons. #6? When I reverse my car sounds louder, sounds like a exhaust problem such as a flex cable, do I really need this repair? Those are all my questions hopefully I can get those answered please and thank you Mazda 626'ers
  5. I have a 1999 Mazda 626, V-6, 2.5L, Automatic, 157K miles. I got my oil changed the other day, then later that night I realized that the red battery light on my dash was on. My car was still on and it had not died. So now when I drive the battery light only comes on when I brake or slow down, then goes off when I accelerate. I went back to where i got my oil changed to see if they might have accidentally done something, they were no help, and also said that they don't touch anything else when doing an oil change. I'm really hoping i don't need a new alternator, as those are kinda expensive. I also don't need anything too long term, as I am hoping to buy a new car in 6-12 months. Also, my car has yet to die while having this problem. Any responses would be helpful/appreciated, and please keep it simple and dumb, I really don't know much of anything about cars. I just want to make sure i don't get way overcharged by a mechanic or end up getting the battery replaced then finding out it is the alternator that is bad.
  6. Roritor

    Brake Pulsing

    About 10 months ago, I decided that my hand brake was not really doing its job so I tightened it up via the bolt in the centre console. Probably not the greatest solution... In any event, a month or two later I began to notice an ever-so-slight pulsing on the brakes when they were applied. I did not feel any pulsing in the brake pedal or steering wheel. It was more that I could feel it in the momentum of the braking of the car. And as the car slowed to a stop, the Pulses per Second (PPS ) would slow down accordingly. Kind of like: Pulse-pulse-pulse-pulse-pulse-puulse-puulse-puuulse-puuuuuulse-puuuuuuuuuu-stop. Figured I had a warped rotor and I'd fix it next brake job. All pads still have a few mm left in them. Fast forward a few months to where I take a long drive to Adelaide. As I come down out of the Adelaide hills, it's getting really bad. By the time I make it to flat ground at the bottom, it's worse than I've ever seen. It has been getting progressively worse since then. As the brakes warm up, it gets noticeably more severe. Eventually, I remembered tightening my hand brake and figured maybe I'd over-tightened it which meant the caliper(s) back there were always slightly applied. So I backed it right off. It's not a very useful hand brake any more but whatever. The problem actually seemed to get quite a bit better. For a while there was all but no more pulsing. Then on an hour long drive into Melbourne, it kinda started coming back and by the time I got to my destination the brakes were making almost a kind of grinding noise as I came to a stop, especially if I hit them hard. Not a scraping but a grinding and the pitch of the grinding lowered as the vehicle slowed. As well, I previously was asking about alignment issues as I have a slight pull of the car to the right (which would be like a car in the US pulling against the camber of the road, to the left). I thought perhaps the issues were related but it seems they're not. So: - Pulsing brake. NOT felt in the pedal or steering wheel. - Gets worse when brakes are heated. - Had the hand brake over tightened but have since loosened it. - Pads all have a few mm left in them. - A new grinding noise has started if I hit the brakes kinda hard. - Car pulls a bit to the right (equiv to pulling to the left in the US).
  7. My '81 626 auto is nearly ready for a roadworthy but I have a problem. When I select the reverse gear and my foot is on the brake pedal the "stop light" warning light on the dash comes on and sort of flickers. Doesn't seem to do it in any other gear. All of my headlights, tail lights, indicator and reverse lights work... I'm not real good with electrics but I want to fix it myself as I have done everything else so far, so where should I start looking? Thanks.
  8. McAnic_Chad

    Brakes Break.....

    My drivers side rear brake caliper won't slide off the pin. It was hard to pivot in order to replace the pads, after the pads were replaced, the caliper started leaking so I needed to replace it. I assume that it is rusted onto the pin at the bottom of the bracket. I sprayed some PB blaster on the pin itself where it slides into the caliper. I really need to be back on the road, I'd hate to have to go buy a caliper bracket as well. If all else fails, I'll go back to the junk yard and buy the bracket too. if any one has had any problems like this before I'd like some advice on how you got it off. Thanks.
  9. about two weeks ago I started off for work and when I shifted from 2nd to 3rd my clutch stayed down... I lifted it with my foot and everything felt normal again except for the fact that I had to press the clutch a little further before I felt pressure in it (excessive play). Yesterday I went to Walmart and the same thing happened so I lifted it again but this time the pressure never returned. I had to fight my transmission all the way home. I can only start the car in neutral because it will try to move when it's in gear. I was thinking about just bleeding the clutch but at this point I don't know for sure if that will help any. I found a clutch slave cylinder and master cylinder for cheap ($21 for both re-manufactured) I just honestly have no idea how to put them on but with my experience I should be able to get it right with a little help and advice.... Thanks to anyone who can help.
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