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Car

Found 4 results

  1. Stablecannon(nextGen)

    Replacement Parts

    I have 2002 mazda 626 4 cylinder and I'm trying to find various parts,here goes: 1. First picture is of a vacuum control module ( or something, I don't know what it is) it's located on the passenger side of the intake manifold and has two electrical connectors and ports for vacuum hoses. One of my ports is broke, the car still runs, but im sure it's needed for something 2. Coolant transfer block ( 2nd pic) located on the driver side of the engine block, connects the heater hose, upper radiator hose, coolant temp sensor to the engine. 3. The screws for the valve cover, I'm missing two. Is there a searchable junkyard database I can look at? Can I buy those screws at Autozone? If so, what would the measurment be that I would need to look for. I know it needs a 10mm socket to remove. So 10mm bolts? Any help would be appreciated.
  2. Hi All, Been lurking a bit, and I finally have a question for the group: I bought a 95 626 LX 2.0 w/ AT. Originally, it was sold to me cheaply due to them not wanting to fix the shift linkage cable where it came loose (yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeah, that was all, really!). As it turned out, this thing had a blown head gasket. Cylinder pressure was leaking into the coolant, big-time. I had a hose balloon and the overflow hose kept blowing off. It was painfully obvious what had to be done. I pulled the head and had it machined and checked for leaks. Top of the block was nice and smooth, and I scrubbed the crap out of it with a green scrubby pad to remove carbon-y funk. She was pretty shiny afterwards. Anywho, I replaced the head gasket, water pump, and did a new timing belt just to be thorough. I had never done a head gasket before. I NOTICED, but did not pay much attention to, the fact that the head bolts did not quite FEEL even when torquing them- Obvs, they're TTY bolts, and ONE of them actually let go a bit. None of the others did. I was using a really, really cheap & cheesy torque wrench. Again, I'd never done a head gasket, and never used TTY bolts. These are normally a bit underpowered with the AT, but this one seemed particularly bad. She'll go uphill, but she feels really weak when doing so. Not TOO bad on flat surfaces; decent acceleration. Today, though, I was doing the first oil change since the head gasket job, and I noticed that there was a fair bit of oil coming down from ABOVE the pan, and some drops of coolant. I followed the trail, and the oil, at least, is coming out on the timing belt side of the head gasket. SHIT. Nothing seems to be mixing yet, at least. What I'm thinking is this: Those bolts were pretty obviously not evenly torqued. I've only given her about 3 months, as I wanted to give her that first change a little early. My question is this: I don't WANT to rip this thing apart again if I don't HAVE to. What's the likelihood that a fresh set of bolts and a GOOD torque wrench will set this right? She's been running reliably- slightly weak, and idling a hair funny at stop lights, but pretty decently. I'm thinking pull the cams, and START the bolts 1 at a time (as in, don't pull them all at once; at least get them started in order so there's never more than one bolt out at a time). What do you think? Anyone half-assed like this before? :) I'd just like to give it a shot before I say screw it and pass it off as a trade-in. Thanks!
  3. Here's the rundown on things. I've had problems with rough shifting since I bought my car about a year ago. The previous owner had the transmission either replaced or rebuilt. I finally took it to Goodyear to find out what was causing the shifting problem. The guy told me "whoever worked on the transmission had no business working on cars period." Long story short, most of the bolts in the transmission as well as the transmission mount and four motor mounts had to be replaced, costing me around $930. The guy also told me someone had messed with the idle and he adjusted it back to where it was supposed to be, however that wasn't listed on the receipt. Anyway, the car has always idled low and rough before the repairs. You can imagine with the mounts and transmission in the shape they were in. Since the repairs, it idles low and vibrates in drive and reverse. It gets even worse if the A/C is on. The problem isn't apparent in park and neutral. I cleaned the throttle body out with some cleaner and a toothbrush, but that didn't seem to help. To make matters worse, the engine light came on today; code P0507: Idle Control System RPM Too High. It seems to me that it's idling too low in drive and reverse. The car starts to vibrate pretty bad. Anyway, the readings for RPM in park and neutral are around 1,100 and in drive and reverse are around 750. I've never had this code until the guy said he adjusted the idle to the correct spot. I tried checking for a vacuum leak using throttle body cleaner, but didn't find anything. I'm no expert, though, so I could've easily missed it. Any suggestions? Also, I noticed when I removed the hose that goes from the throttle body to the air box or whatever that thing is there seemed to be moisture on the edge of the part where the hose connects--not the throttle body, but the other side, I guess the air box. Update: Engine light went off today. The idle seems to be fine until I turn the A/C on. Then it vibrates bad.
  4. fiberglassworks

    Cam Main Bolts?

    does anybody know a part number for ARP or similar brand bolts for the cam mains on a 2L? I have to replace mine on a junkyard head I'm rebuilding, nobody seems to make a kit for it, suppose i could just go measure to see what the threads are but thats all the way at the shop and im home right now, too lazy to drive right now haha
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