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Found 17 results

  1. Hello Mazda friends! I've been fighting this issue for a while. My 91 626 LX charges the battery only when it wants to. I've replaced the alternator and the same symptoms exist. My battery is good. The main cable coming off the alternator going to the battery seems good, and the negative terminal/ground wire and positive terminal are all new. however, most of the time when I start my car, it will not start charging right away. Sometimes it takes only a few minutes, other times it seems like it will never start charging. When it does kick in, it will hang between 13.8 - 14.7 on the
  2. I've got an issue with my 89 626 2.2 n/a not charging. I've had the alternator bench tested, and I've got a fresh battery installed, but it refuses to charge. I've also noticed that with the key on, engine off, the charge light isn't illuminated on the dash. I'm not sure where to go from here. My thinking is that there is a break somewhere in the circuit that runs from the battery to the dash to the alternator, but I don't know where to start looking. Every workshop manual I've downloaded doesn't do a very good job outlining the charging circuit or that part is completely missing. If anyone kn
  3. Recently had the battery light come on in my 2001 626. I had an older battery so I replaced that. Was good for about week before the light came on again. After about another week, the car wouldn’t start, the battery wouldn’t hold a charge. So today the alternator was replaced, battery charged, and the battery still drains and won’t hold a charge, resulting in a dead battery. Connections are good, belt is tight, no wires seem damaged. What could be the issue? By the way, I’m not a very car savy person. Any help will be appreciated. Also, this is a European spec car, so don’t know if it di
  4. Hi, I have a Mazda 626 1998 Sedan Automatic, it has an issue with charging the battery. The car always starts very easy however the Alternator is not charging the battery right from the start. Have this problem for more than a year and Here is more precisely what's happening: - When I start the engine (cold engine not started for more than 3 hours) Alternator does not start charging the battery immediately but after 20 to 40 minutes... and afterwords everything works fine so the alternator charges the battery as normally as it should and does that for an unlimited time as long as the e
  5. Hey guys, 2000 Mazda 626, LX V6 2.5L. Auto. Has 130,0013 miles on it.. Car sat for a year due to unrelated problems (fuel pump) etc. So i put a new pump in my self, replaced needed fuses and got it running and registered, alternator was bad from a year ago.. another reason it sat. So i had a lifetime warranty on one of NAPA'S crappy alternators, so i had my mechanic remove the alternator for me (considering its one hell of a job to get out myself.. and i dont have a lift) and i took the old one to napa, they gave me a refurb lifetime one and i took it to my mechanic and he put it in for me, co
  6. Does anyone have any pictures / video of removing the alternator from a base model 88' 626 sedan? I managed to get everything disconnected and the charcoal canister out of the way but still can't get the alternator out. It's being blocked in by the brake hardline and the hardlines for the charcoal canister. I've heard that it can be removed by going behind the engine and out the drivers side but I can't seem to find the right path. Any help is appreciated! -Luke
  7. Hello Everyone, I own a 1997 Mazda 626 4Cylinder, and although I have tried my best to keep up with it, lacking proper funds to make repairs over the few years as i should have, I've recently run into a debilitating issue. While driving a couple weeks ago, I lost charge voltage, as well as loss of acceleration and power steering. I managed to get home, and after attempting to salvage the alternator I had, I ended up replacing it. The alternator was in bad shape, damaged brush, one of the coil wires came undone, and I'm thinking there was regulator damage, but i can't be sure. In any
  8. I'm having some more issues with my Base 1988 626 sedan. Upon getting it to start again after sitting for about 2 months. (turned out to be a charging issue) I started it up and it ran great for about 10 seconds until I saw smoke rising by the belt side of the engine. Smelled burning rubber. After turning the engine off and a quick inspection, it had appeared the alternator had siezed and the belt was spinning on it. I have recently discovered when I went to change the alternator and accompanying belts, that it was rotating freely after I removed the belts and that the crankshaft pulley was ve
  9. I'm soon going to be replacing the alternator and belt on my base 88' 626 sedan. I've god a few decent junkyards within driving distance of home. Any vehicles that share an appropriately sized 70 amp 12V alternator I could salvage one from? Any tips for when I do the replacement itself or will it be a pretty standard affair? According to CARiD, the Remy alternator is also a Mitsubishi model, based on the stamp in the component itself.
  10. Hello all i am a new member i have a 99 626 v6 and just replaced the alternator and the battery and now that it is done when the car idles the battery light is off but as soon as i accelerate and drive the battery light comes on but as soon as i get off the gas the light goes out. i was thinking it is the belt but it seems to be tight. also i noticed the large clip that plugs into the alternator the clip that you push in to remove the clip is broken off. please help at wits end
  11. I've recently had issues with my 1998 626 I4. I've had an ongoing issue with my car's idle doing odd things when the car is warmed up. But recently, the battery light turned on periodically. This worried me because I didn't want to get stuck somewhere with a dead battery, so I had it checked at Autozone and they said the battery was bad. After replacing the battery, the battery light continued to turn on periodically, so Autozone checked it again and said the alternator was bad, so I replaced that. The battery light CONTINUED to come on even with a new alternator and battery. I had Autoz
  12. I noticed that my 4 year old battery was getting weak, & negative terminal had a bad connection (to the point the crimp was loose and the negative ground wire would actually slip out while driving leaving the battery disconnected on the negative side) After a while I would feel the car lose a tad bit of power (but not stall) while driving and the tachometer would read outlandishly. I replaced that negative terminal and that stopped... Then the battery died, I charged it, and the car started and ran fine once again. This morning the battery died again and the car wouldn't even start with a
  13. I'm having a problem with my 2002 4 cylinder. My wife was driving for about 20 minutes whenever it started to overheat. She let it cool down then drove back home. she shut off the car and couldn't get it to start again. Checked and the battery was bad. Got a new battery and changed the thermostat. Temp is doing fine now from what I've seen. Now the problem is this, when I started the car there wasn't any power and the battery light was on. Took out the alternator and it passed at autozone and O'reillys. Hooked it back up, made sure the ground was tight and still the same problem. Got a good br
  14. I was driving at night with my lights and radio on and once I parked at home I noticed my panel lights and headlights were dimmed really low. None of my indicator/idiot lights were on at this point. I figured this was my battery dying and turned the car off. I tried to turn the car back on and all it would do is click. The next morning I went to take a look at it and it started right up. I have not had a problem with it since then but am worried it could leave me stranded somewhere. I had the alternator replaced but the 'bench' test on my old one at O'Reilys said my old alternator was fine.
  15. Does anyone know what model our alternators are (for the I4 4th and 5th gens)? I was looking online for a rebuild kit and most of the kits pertain to a specific model, so I need the exact model of the alternator.
  16. Hey, I have a 1991 626 2.2L manual transmission car. It is old and has a pile of kilometers on it but has been super reliable in the past six months that I've owned it. The other day I needed to go out and the car started fine. It's sometimes a little reluctant to turn over right away but worked perfectly when I began the day. I drove a short distance and parked it on a sidestreet. After running errands for a couple hours I came back to the intending to drive home. When I go to start it the instrument lights came on along with the radio as normal but when I turned the key in the ignition the
  17. You guys will never believe what I have to go through just to check my alternator, or, maybe you will. I had to finally address the Valve Cover repair I've been putting off to save money, or should I say, lack there of? Anyway, here's the run down: Here's a picture of everything now, as you can see the intake is off and I have a rag covering the intake oriface. Here is the other side and as you can see, the alternator is deep underneath the front valve cover, covered in oil. Those of you who are novice repairmen, once your valve covers are leaking, get them changed and do it quick fast
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