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  1. Recently my 1999 V6 began to kind of shake when stopped (such as traffic light) with RPM's jumping slightly. The roughness gets less intense when put into neutral but are still there. When accelerating, the car is stuttering and RPM's are jumping around while going up and it shakes too. Spark plugs have been changed within past 10,000 miles.
  2. Hello, I own a 1998 european Mazda 626 GF with the 1.8L 4 cylinder engine and manual transmission. I'm a almost complete newbie with mechanical technics and since few months, this car has a problem: As soon as the engine is beginning to be hot (4 or 5 mins at idle), the idle regime become very unstable, between 500 and 750 rpm. And without charge, after an acceleration, a deceleration leads to stop the engine. And, which is very annoying, when driving and positioning to neutral in order to stop, the engine stops. So so more assisted steering ... which is dangerous.
  3. So I have a 2001 626 lx 2.0 and have replaced all motor mounts and have noticed a significant difference. But while stopped or in park, if I turn the A/C on, it gets shaky, my rpm gauge drops down to 600. Also if I roll up my windows in park or while stopped, my rpm gauge drops and the car shakes. I'm dumbfounded. Don't know if it is the battery or alternator or something else. In Idle my RPM is 900 with minimal shaking. When I turn the AC on or roll up the windows it drops to 750-800 rpm and my dashboard lights go dim a little and the shaking happens. Also shakes when the fan is on. Any sugge
  4. Hello all, I've searched as extensively as I could and was unable to find the same issue as I am having. My 96 Mazda 626 2.0L Manual will start perfectly and idle perfectly, but as soon as I touch the gas pedal (or manually try to open the throttle at the throttle body) the car completely dies. I've tried feathering it open but as soon as the throttle leaves the idle position, the car dies. If I quickly hold the throttle wide open from idle it will just barely run (fires maybe once per second) and back fires dramatically with smoke and the works. I back probed the pins on the TPS and
  5. I have a 1997 Mazda 626 4CL 2.0L manual with over 200,000 miles. I was driving the other day and when I tried to accelerate in first gear from a stop it loss power and started sputtering. I pushed on the accelerator and the engine was making a clinking / rattling noise. Once I got the RPMs past 3000, it cleared up and drove normal. This happened at every stop, it felt like it was trying to die but it didn't. I attempted to drive the few blocks home in 2nd gear which was working just fine but then it started doing the same thing. It sounded like it was mis firing and when I got home it sm
  6. Ladies and Gents I have a problem. My beloved 98 626 has a lovely habit of, when in drive or reverse, revving from it's norm of 750-900ish RPM to 1500 and as high as 2000 for a short while before dropping back down to regular levels. Now I know the engine's idle will kick up for a short while then go back down, but it never revved that high before. It only does this in drive or reverse, as shifting to neutral or park relieves the symptoms and it idles normally. I have no CEL, and the only maintenance I have pending is to replace the rear VCG, as I'm a little scared of tearing my engine h
  7. Hi guys, My ride is a 626 GF 2.0 MTX, a couple of months ago the IDLE was very unestable above of the normal (650 rpm) a morning it die, the car is turned off when it was in IDLE. I have changed the IAC hoping fix it, but.... has worsened. Principal symptoms: 1) Air aconditioning pipe frozen! 2) IDLE stable (untill it reaches high temperature), after of this the RPM they go up 3.000 and hold there. 3) When I open the switch to ON, (with not started), the fan coolers on the radiadors runs, both! (this when the car is cold). 4) Whe the car reaches high temperature o
  8. Sputters when idling, rpm guage flutters, happens more when in drive. The car also shakes when in drive, and the intake suddenly got louder. Also my chilton's manual say the sparking order is different than its set up but the distributor cap is labeled so idk which one is correct, i changed sparkplugs and wires and it started making a light knoicking noise a few days later. Any help greatly appreciated, my only car
  9. Hi, First of all, I tried search but couldn't find any info about this so if there's any post about this - sorry :) Mazda MX-6 1992 2.0 Short version : Engine starts, with gas pedal runs fine but little misfires(?), on idle rpm up and down after 30sec and stalls, idle adjuster works, MAF-works, timing belt+cams ok. What's the problem? Long version : I changed my head gasket and machined the head on one guy, he replaced valve stems etc. everything is ok in the head and everything went smoothly back in to place and the car starts just fine. I can rev it but when on stea
  10. Bought my '97 626 in September this year, 144K on her, had absolutely no apparent issues..... October comes around and the Check Engine light begins to turn on and off and on at random intervals. Checked for the code and it was a P1506 - Idle Air, Overspeed, Vacuum Leak, etc. A few weeks pass, suddenly the car begins to have issues idling smoothly and she wouldn't turn over properly, some times won't turn over after 5-10 seconds, or would turn over after one go at 'er and it would stall - very rarely I might add.. November comes by and the check engine light turns off.... absolutely no pr
  11. My 98 626 2L is idling low once the engine reaches operating temp, around 450 - 500 rpm, and as can be expected at that rpm it's rough / lugging. Upon pressing the gas the idle has a little trouble getting going and the engine kind of wobbles a bit, but once the rpms are above 1k it's smooth. If I rev the engine to 3 or 4k and let off the gas quick it settles softly to about 750-800, then after a few seconds drops back down to the 450-500 range again. I've taken off the throttle body and cleaned the idle air screw passage and sprayed some cleaner up the IAC passages from both sides, didn
  12. Just bought a 1999 626 V6 2.5L with 111k miles. It is in okay shape (it is a 16 year old car after all), but I got it for a decent price for my daughter to drive around town. When we turn on the AC (using the AC switch or using the Defrost), the idle bumps up significantly. Normally it is about 8-900, but when AC is on it jumps to 1500 or more. The problem is that the idle is so high it is if someone is pushing on the accelerator. Also it is on for 10 seconds and then off for 10 seconds (give or take a few seconds) So idle is high, then back to normal, then high again, then normal, ov
  13. Recently I was driving and my timing belt broke. At the time the car was running good. The only problem was it was leaking coolant but turns out that was from the water pump. So I get the timing belt and water pump replaced. When I go to get my car from the shop after those being fixed it won't start. The mechanic there got it started but had to step on the gas pedal. He said he wasn't sure exactly why and to drive it until the CEL came on and get it ran. It came on and I go back and it throws codes for a bad o2 sensor, egr valve and maf sensor. And they said that it was a vacuum leak and they
  14. Hello, I have a 98 Mazda 626 i4 lx. In the last couple of weeks when ever I have waited at a red light the RPM's have been fluctuating between 500-750 and this causes the car to vibrate and shake a lot. The check engine light has been on for a while so i decided to get it checked out. At the auto parts store they ran a diagnostic and this code came back, P1131. Any additional help would be appreciated.
  15. Hi all. First - THANK YOU!... to all on this forum for all your help. I've been lurking around on here for a long time and really appreciate all the knowledge that has been shared! Second - So, I have a long list of things that I am trying to solve, it seems as soon as I fix one thing, or think I fix something, something else pops up. My Mazda is a 1993 626 V6 2.5 with 181xxxmi I have an HEI Mod- When I did this I had not had any issues for a long time. Somewhere along the line I ended up with a high Idle around 1500. I solved that, I forgot how, it was a wh
  16. I have a manual 1998 Mazda 626 I4. Does anyone have problems where when they are stopped, the RPMS drop a bit and the car chugs. I dont know why. It constantly has a small chug but sometimes it like to drop down and chug even harder.
  17. Ok, basics first. I'm not new to Mazda's, as I have owned two 85 626 2.0 carbed automatics, a 91 626 2.2 DX 5-speed, 92 Prot
  18. Hello..any help would be appreciated. We replaced the idle solenoid on our 626. The car has 90K and is in good shape other than the transmission that just lost drive. Aside from that, any clue?? Some say that it may be the computer. Thank you.
  19. good evening all, after all my efforts of replacing the 2.0KF with a 2.5KL which may i add went well, i have 1 small issue and not to sure were to start looking. the car starts and she rev`s like a b1tch in heat but doesnt idle at all. i have checked all the VRIS valves and hoses. i have checked timing i have fitted new plugs and cords and filters what could i have missed?
  20. So I'm new to the site but not new to cars. I recently acquired a 1989 Mazda 626. It's a bit of a basket case. Traded a junk f150 for it. Rums like crap. Here's my list of issues. Idles rough- already cleaned iac, seafoamed car, and ran injector cleaner. Replaced tps. Also advanced timing a little bit. Cleaned tb, too, with starter fluid. New plugs and wires. Only idles rough in gear. Misses a little bit. Thoughts? Car doesn't have any high end power and stops revving when it feels like it. Today the rev limit is 3500. Yesterday it was 4500, before I messed with anything. Car also shifts r
  21. This issue is one in the same. My AC fan (on the radiator) comes on when the AC button is pressed, like it's supposed to. When I drive around or it's a really hot day, when I'm in park or just stopped at a light the car begins to idle roughly. The RPMs drop below 500 and every once in a while the car will shut off. While diagnosing this problem I realized that it's idling rough because the AC fan is turning on and then off again. When the fan is just steady, I don't have any issues with the idle. I can feel when the fan turns on and off while I'm driving, but it's most noticeable when idle. M
  22. My 91' 626 LX Non Turbo is idling around 1500 RPM on acold start up, it will do this for a few minutes before droping to 750 RPM. What would cause this? Oh, and it will smoke until the RPM drops to 750, the color of the smoke is kinda blueish.
  23. Here's the rundown on things. I've had problems with rough shifting since I bought my car about a year ago. The previous owner had the transmission either replaced or rebuilt. I finally took it to Goodyear to find out what was causing the shifting problem. The guy told me "whoever worked on the transmission had no business working on cars period." Long story short, most of the bolts in the transmission as well as the transmission mount and four motor mounts had to be replaced, costing me around $930. The guy also told me someone had messed with the idle and he adjusted it back to where it was
  24. Hey all, I'd like to check the idle air adjustment screw on my 2002 626 I4. But, when I look at the throttle body, the screw in question isn't obvious. Can someone tell me where it is? Also, I do have some other problem that is causing rough idle problems, so I don't expect an adjustment of the screw to help. But, I would like to set it appropriately so that I can at least not even wonder if it has something to do with what is going on with my car. Is there a "standard" setting for that screw? Like, two turns out or something? Thanks!
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