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Found 6 results

  1. I have a 95 mazda 626 automatic, I need to replace my passenger side cv axle, I banged out the locking dent and used an 18 inch breaker bar with a 32 mm socket and a cheater pipe, I put all my weight on it ( 230 lbs ) and this dam thing wont even budge. my tires are on the ground and the brake is on. I need help have no clue, Is there some sort of trick? please help. need this done asap for work.
  2. ARE YOU one of those folks that would like to do it yourself maintenance on your 626 and/or just wanting to get into cars but YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT TO USE? Well hold on to your Nuts ......... and bolts. I got just the list of things for how to prepare yourself whenever you're doing any work on your car at home. Lets start with the basic tool sets! I included the pic links to some of these, I wanted to include my 3/8" and 1/4" socket set pics but they were just too disorganized with extra pieces of sockets all over the place to be posted here. Basic Tools: -Mazda 626 service repair manual online, solid copy, or Haynes repair book (you'll need it to know what your doing and the specs for your specific 626). -Tool Box (17" may be recommended, the bigger the better if you have space to put it).http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1268.jpg -Flat Head screwdrivers of different widths & length -Philips screwdrivers of different points & length -Pocket screwdriver -Pliers (needle nose, channel locks, & cutters) -3/8" Drive Metric Ratchet Socket set (SAE optional) -1/4" Drive Metric Ratchet Socket set -1/4" Drive Metric Deep Socket set -5/8 Spark plug Socket (deep socket with rubber inert) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1250.jpg -10" Long extension (for reaching into spark plug hole and other things) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1264.jpg -Metric Combination Wrench set 7mm-17mm (ranges of sizes may vary) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1262.jpg -1/2" Drive Breaker/cheater bar http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1238.jpg -1/2-3/8, 3/8-1/2" Drive Adapters http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1267.jpg -Tire pressure gauge -Drain Pan (Holds at least 4 qt for oil changes & maybe 7-8 qt for ATF or Antifreeze changes, not all of the ATF will be able to drain from tranny). -Oil filter Wrench (varies in sizes, check fit first) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1277.jpg -Funnel -Two 2-ton Jackstands + wheel blockers http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1274.jpg -Anti-seize grease -Thor's Hammer! -Multi-meter (very cheap) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1241.jpg -OBD II Scanner (if you ever get a check engine light on, it would be convenient to have one with you especially in the trunk). -Jumper Box with air pump (very convenient for jumpstarting weak/dead batteries or add air to tires) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1272.jpg -Magnet stick ( A MUST NEED for retrieving bolts, screws, sockets, & tools dropped in the engine bay where its impossible to reach with your butter fingers). -LED flashlight -Most important of all, WEAR SAFETY GLASS!! http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1273.jpg If you want to get a little deeper into your Mazda, then here are some of the more slightly Advanced Tools that I recommend you get, especially when your doing brake job. More Advanced Tools: -1/2" ft-lb Torque wrench http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1275.jpg -3/8" inch-lb Torque wrench -1/2" Impact wrench ( I owned an electric cordless impact wrench producing 200 ft-lb of torque, more than enough to get lug nuts off). http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1269.jpg -Air Compressor that power tools (if you own any air powered tools, I don't and large air compressors can be quite expensive) -Blow gun (Air powered tool) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1270.jpg -1/2" Drive Deep Impact Sockets http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1254.jpg -Oxygen Sensor Socket http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1244.jpg -RTV gasket maker -Needle Nose long locking pliers (helps getting stripped bolts/nuts/screws loose) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1237.jpg -Drum Brake Tool (if you own drum brakes) http://s1270.photobu...nt=download.jpg -C-clamp (good for pushing caliper pistons in when servicing) http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1235.jpg -Metric Hex bit set http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1261.jpg -Brake Caliper Grease -Very thin T-pins (to diagnose by backprobing connectors) -Pair of small Alligator clip jumper Wire -Pair of Wire stripper http://s1270.photobu...nt=DSCN1243.jpg *There's more to list but this is all I can come up with in my head for now* Optional: -Vacuum gauge or Vacuum pump -Coolant/Radiator pressure tester -Spark plug wire tester -Engine Compression Tester -Four Jackstands -Can of Brake clean -Mechanic gloves or disposable Nitrile gloves -Shop paper towels (good at absorbing oil, it takes a lot longer to use up a roll than regular home paper towels). I had fun making this list of things and surely these are most of the tools that I've used as an Auto student and at Home.
  3. **when i say seized i mean when its seized in the hub** this guide can also be used to remove cv axles that are not seized TOOLS REQUIRED: Impact gun with a metric impact socket set or a ratchet respectively 25 ton press with collar and blocks Torch Picklefork or hammer Needle nose pliers Flathead screwdriver Size 17 wrench Cauter pins So first you have to remove your tire, the lugs are size 21 remove your brake hose clip, use the flathead to kind of pry the clip off then you need to remove your brake caliper by taking off these 2 bolts remove your rotor now remove your cv axle spindle nut now remove one of the bolts on your strut tower by putting a wrench on one side and the impact on the other the size is 17mm leave the top one in to remove the ball joint and tie rod end then remove the top bolt. remove the bolt on the ball joint, you need a wrench to put on one size and impact on the other to remove it im sorry but i forgot the size lol remove the nut holding your tie rod end on, it should have a cauter pin in it, just use the needle nose to remove it and when you reinstall it make sure to put a new cauter pin in use either a picklefork or a hammer to seperate the steering knuckle/hub from the lower control arm with the ball joint in it, do the same for the tie rod end if neccisary and there you go! you should be able to remove it all in one piece! the video footage is just below this along with the pic of my new cv axle and a bit more of the removal proccess before the machine shop put it in their press which is much better than ours lol thanks for reading guys! the rest of the videos will be up soon! thanks again for reading!
  4. another video i made today when i changed out my rpm gauge i hope it helps! enjoy! -Daniel
  5. ok so heres the video! hope its helpful, enjoy everyone! let me know what you guys think! -Daniel
  6. hey all, inspired by djdevon3's short video explaining how to remove a gauge cluster in the GE 626's i decided to make a how to. well here it goes! time for job: 5-10 minutes tools needed: short phillips head screw driver remove the 3 srews located at the top of the gauge cluster bezel then carefully pull the bezel out from top to bottom now youll have to remove 4 screws 2 on the bottom and 2 on the top then very carefully remove the gauge cluster, it takes a little wiggle action to get out lol and if your needing to fully remove it just disconnect your electrical connections and your done! any questions? just reply to this topic or pm me!