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Found 7 results

  1. Recently had the battery light come on in my 2001 626. I had an older battery so I replaced that. Was good for about week before the light came on again. After about another week, the car wouldn’t start, the battery wouldn’t hold a charge. So today the alternator was replaced, battery charged, and the battery still drains and won’t hold a charge, resulting in a dead battery. Connections are good, belt is tight, no wires seem damaged. What could be the issue? By the way, I’m not a very car savy person. Any help will be appreciated. Also, this is a European spec car, so don’t know if it differs from American spec. I live in Europe so no autozone or o’rielys to get it checked out at.
  2. Bitter

    Led Capable Flasher For 98-02?

    I've been searching online and I can't find a flasher for my 98 that supports LED's. I know I can use the stock and run resistors but I don't like to do that as the resistors get very hot and that negates any advantages of the LED's like lower power consumption and less heat. I'd like some switch back front turn signals that go fro solid lit to on/off and some rear LED turn signals to match the rear LED brake/tail bulbs. Evidently we use some weird flasher type, all I can find are OEM replacements. Is ours a thermal flasher inside or is it electronic inside? If it's electronic inside I may be able to modify it to remove the bulb out warning and stop the fast flashing with LED.
  3. Todd Molloy

    Possible Frankenstein Project

    My 1998 mazda 626 LX got hit in a rear end collision. I'm wondering if I can take the engine out of my car and transplant it a 2001 626. Thanks
  4. davebridgewater1941

    Mazda 626: Engine Pinging In Hot Weather

    When i accelerate uphill in very hot weather say 80-90f the engine will Ping slightly in third gear, I have put in a new set spark plugs (NGK Platinum PZFR6F) this has made an improvement although it hasn't solved the problem completely. When the air temperature is average 50-70f the car runs perfectly OK.
  5. Roritor

    My Obd Interface

    Hey guys, So I have pretty much never used a scan tool, believe it or not. And I am confused about what type of OBD I have got in my car. Firstly, have a look at the interface and where it is: Most pics/vids I see of people plugging in scan tools is to a little port under the dash with a completely different shape to the plug in. What the Hell kind of plug is that in mine, anyway?? The other thing which confuses me is whether I'm running OBD or OBD-II. I had a look at my exhaust and I don't see any O2 sensor after my catalytic converter. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that a sign that it's not running OBD-II? Are there any other ways to tell? I was also under the impression that OBD-II equipped cars come with ability to tell you how many km per litre you're getting, how many km until empty and so on. My LCD odometer only shows total kilometre, Trip A and Trip B, the last two of which are resetable, the first one is obviously not. Can anyone shed some light on this?
  6. Are there any how-to's for replacing a head gasket in the 2001 LX-V6? I have ordered the head gaskets, but would like to have some help going into this.
  7. kcuerrier

    2001 626 Auto Shifting Problem?

    Hello, I recently purchased a 2001 Mazda 626 with 115000 kms on it. very nice car. but i find that when accelerating (slowly or quickly) i find there is a severe loss of power when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. it is almost like a really bad standard shift. where you will be accelerating adn then all of a sudden your whole body is thrown forward for a split second before the new gear kicks in. The transmission is not slipping from whay I can tell. the rpms DO NOT skyrocket during the shift. the shift lasts about 1 second and happens whether you are driving it hard or miss daisy. when it shifts, car returns to normal operation and the shift into overdrive is fine. not sure if this is related or not : once in awhile, not too often, when accelerating slowly or holding at about 20k/hr, it will make a whining sound for a split second, kinda like a pump running dry, or like a blower motor that is about to die in the dead of winter. this sound is related to the accelerator. possibly to the transmission. just hoping its not a torque converter or the tranny itself. I read that changing the transmission fluid would be a good place to start and I will be doing that this week. I know this is relating to the transmission, but to me it sounds more electrical than mechanical. but im no mechanic. is there a computer that can be reset? or is this a common issue with Mazda or any automatic transmission. Thanks in advance to anyone who is able to help!