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Found 8 results

  1. Hello, I will try and make this as brief as possible. I have a 98 Mazda 626LX 2.0l, 5 Speed MT, 255K miles, Additioanal Info: California/Low emmisions motor VIN: 1YVGF22CXW5747529 Because of smoking issues, it was suggested that the valve seals were warn. Making this as easy as possible I replaced the FS2 head w/ another FS2 (no distributor). Once the head job was finished, started the motor and all was fine except for the the additional smoke, even worse than before. It's suggested that with the replacement of the head , it has created more compression and forcing oil through or past the rings, is creating the added exhaust/(embarrassing) SMOKE. i am searching for suggestions, Money is short as usual, but will do what I have to do. I'm thinking, used engine(low mileage), remanufactured small block. Any help/suggestionjs is appreciated, including place to turn to for a motor. Question: I've notice FS-DE, what does it mean? how do I determine what I have? What's the difference between a AT and MT reagarding the motor/block? Jim
  2. 2.0l

    I have a 98 Mazda 626LX 2.0l, 5 Speed MT, 255K miles, California/Low emmisions motor Searching for a small block, hopfully low mileage, Not easy. Question: I've notice FS-DE, what does it mean? how do I determine what I have? Why do I need to replace the motor/block with the same block? How is a low emmission(CA) motor better than a standard motor and what is the difference? What's the difference between a AT and MT regarding the motor/block? Jim
  3. Ok well the silver GC is now a silver turbo GC finally! After a lot of work almost 2yrs lol, but i did it all myself with next to no cash so thats understandable, I will be taking time to get this thread going its not a how to its just a overall guide to aid someone who is wanting to do it to a factory ideal, will post pics and such as i go starting from , well the start..... I just have to decide where and how many pics i will need to show, id rather them all be on here in like a album or something but i dont think i can do that here, will see what happens..
  4. Has anyone put a turbo on a 626 I4? People always give me weird looks when I tell them I want to turbo mine. :) Anyway, if someone has, what has worked the best? Was it worth it? I saw a youtube video where they put a turbo on a '91 626 4cyl.
  5. 2.0L ATX to MTX Swap (also applicable for 1.8L FP) This one has been a long time in the making. A comprehensive ATX to MTX swap tutorial for the 2.0L FS engine. You can use this same basic procedure to swap any FS automatic to manual for the 626, MX-6, Probe, Telstar, or Protege. The Protege will have some difference and there are differences in components between years and models. You'll have to adapt these procedures for your application. Just for reference if you want to watch every episode back to back I have an ATX to MTX swap playlist. There are some videos there (junkyard trips 1-3) that are not included here that shows pulling the clutch system from a junkyard car. I did not include them here because they aren't good videos in my opinion and I was didn't know what I was doing. If you want to watch me struggle those 3 videos are available. Before you even think about starting on your swap you will need to begin collecting components for the swap. This can take weeks or months in itself. It is not an overnight process so if you plan on going through with a swap you'll want to purchase all of the following parts and tools (if you don't have them already). In most cases it will actually take you 3x longer to find and purchase all of the parts for the swap than actually doing the swap. ----------------------------------------------------- Tools ----------------------------------------------------- It is possible to do the entire swap with hand tools, I've done it. In place of an impact gun you can use a breaker bar and socket set. Impact gun (compressed air or professional electric capable of 200-300ft lbs of torque) OR 1/2" Breaker bar (1/4" breaker bar is not enough you will break it) Metric deep well socket set (required for driver-side engine mount) Metric normal socket set + ratchet Metric wrench set (every nut and bolt on a Mazda is metric) Phillips and Flathead screw driver set 1 Chisel of any size Carb/Throttle Body/Brake aerosol cleaner and aluminum or brass bristle brush Anti-seize lube Red loctite General purpose high temp grease (general bearing grease) Molybdenum grease if your clutch kit doesn't come with some Work Shop Manual from PMX626.info (consider the WSM as your bible, wouldn't have been able to do half the project without it) ----------------------------------------------------- Parts ----------------------------------------------------- Clutch parts include everything in this diagram. You will need EVERY labeled part in the diagram. You will need the MTX brake fluid reservoir as there is an additional line to it that the ATX fluid reservoir does not have. Recommend you also get the entire brake pedal assembly at the same time since the ATX brake pedal is much wider and will interfere with the clutch pedal. The MTX brake pedal is much smaller. You have to remove the entire brake pedal assembly to get at the clutch pedal assembly anyway. Just in case the image ever goes down (which it shouldn't) I'll just list all the parts: Clutch pedal assembly Clutch master cylinder Clutch lines (pipes & hoses) Slave cylinder Clutch fork & spring (should come with transmission but if not you'll need them) Throwout bearing Clutch Kit (clutch cover + pressure plate + clutch friction disc) I4 MTX Flywheel (recommend getting a new pilot bearing, some clutch kits come with a new bearing) I4 MTX brake fluid reservoir (you can re-use your existing ATX brake cylinder and swap over just the reservoir but if you do it ensure you get a new reservoir to brake cylinder seal from Mazda) Optional: If you want a full true undetectable swap then pick up an MTX brake booster. It's much smaller in diameter than it's ATX counterpart. The ATX brake booster will work perfectly fine on the MTX though. Here's a video on how to remove the clutch pedal. It's probably the hardest part of the clutch system to disassemble. Obviously you'll need the transmission and know how to select the correct version of the G25M-R. If you have a Protege find a G15M-R. Make sure it comes with a vehicle speed sensor (VSS) and neutral safety switch (NSS). If it does come bundled then ensure to test them for continuity otherwise purchase new ones. In case you are wondering you will re-use the ATX to engine bolts to mate the MTX transmission to the engine. They're all the same around the bell housing. One thing that I didn't do which I wished I had was to take the G25M-R directly to a transmission shop and have them inspect it. I purchased my G25M-R directly from a transmission reseller that specialized in selling transmission and warrantied it for 30 days. I installed my transmission without any inspection which could have gone very bad for me. Luckily everything worked great but you should not trust that you will have the same luck. Have the transmission inspected and rebuilt before even thinking about installing it. Can't shift without the shifter and shift linkages right? They must be pulled from an I4. The V6 shift linkages are NOT compatible. I have a video to prove the difference between I4 and V6 shift linkages. Well to be honest the torsion bar (one attached to the shifter plate) is the only one that is different. Best to pick up both bars from an I4 if possible. I4 MTX axles with 2 new OEM C-clips from Mazda (aftermarket C-clips are known to cause issues). If you pull junkyard axles that come with c-clips and they look to be in good shape and not jutting out then they can be re-used. Both axles are different on the I4 ATX and MTX. They are not compatible. Ensure you get I4 MTX axles only. Above is what good c-clips look like. They are not jutting out which will cause the axle not to be able to be installed. The above axle will slide in and out no problem. I4 MTX axle nuts. You'll need 2 new ones from Mazda if your axles do not come with them. You can re-use them if the detent isn't smashed into smithereens as seen in the above photo. I4 MTX axle seals. Even if your G25M-R comes with axle seals it's not something you want to skimp on. Get 2 new seals one for each axle. I cover axle seal install during the series. I4 MTX flywheel bolts. You'll need 6 OEM flywheel bolts. It is imperative you only use Mazda flywheel bolts. You can not use the ATX flexplate bolts they are not compatible even though they might look similar they are a different length by about 2mm. Do NOT go with hardware store bolts for something as important as the flywheel rotating at over 6000 RPM. Using the wrong bolts can cause the flywheel to literally make your transmission explode from the inside. Do a youtube search for "flywheel explosion" and you'll see what I'm talking about. Flywheel bolts are definitely not worth skimping on. Get OEM bolts from Mazda. Yes they are expensive but they are worth not killing someone on the road and having that kind of liability hanging over your head. It's also a good picture showing the new pilot bearing in the middle of the flywheel. You can press in or hammer in the new pilot bearing just making sure it's flush and perfectly straight. I4 MTX clutch cover bolts. Recommend OEM Mazda bolts but you can safely use hardware store bolts if you want to save some money. Just be sure that the bolts fit perfectly and are the correct bolts otherwise don't risk it and go with Mazda bolts. By this time you should be familiar with your local Mazda parts department. Perhaps even being on a first name basis with the parts person. I4 MTX driver-side transmission mount (+ chassis side bracket) Pictured above you can see how much lower the MTX bracket sits. If you do not get the correct bracket then your engine will sit on an 15-30 degree angle in the engine bay. It will be pretty obvious that something isn't right which is what lead me to realize the brackets were different in the first place. (not good for your flywheel or engine). I4 MTX rear transmission mount (+ chassis side bracket ) The passenger-side mount and front mount are identical on the ATX and MTX. I didn't know the rear mount and bracket were also needed when this video was recorded but my transmission luckily came with both the rear mount and bracket already attached! Recommend you get new mounts instead of relying on junkyard mounts (rubber almost always blown in junkyard cars). You can still buy new mounts online. You cannot however buy the bracket. Brackets are a junkyard only item at this point. I4 Engine Harness & ECU. It is possible to use your ATX harness & ECU but you'll have a permanent O/D off light blinking and error codes. I went with my existing ATX ECU and harness because I have a 95. The 95 was a single specific year and finding the exact year ECU and harness proved to take more time than anything else. In the mean time you can get your swap up and running with the ATX ECU and harness then find the MTX ECU, harness, and distributor later. I4 MTX distributor (for 93-97 vehicles). If you have a 98-02 then you can reuse your existing ATX coilpack (626) or coil on plugs (Protege). I4 MTX cruise control diaphragm if you want to keep cruise control. The ATX cruise control diaphragm is different from MTX. I4 MTX EGR valve (different operation but looks identical to the ATX EGR valve) I4 MTX Throttle body stop switch (does not come on ATX 626) Either get only the switch or pick up an MTX throttle body that has it already. You can use your ATX instrument cluster but that's up to you. The MTX cluster is identical except it blacks out the PRNDL and O/D off indicators. You could simply dismantle your ATX cluster and black out the PRNDL and O/D off indicators yourself. I chose to stick with the ATX cluster and not care about the blinking O/D off light. Actually as you'll see later I get the MTX reverse light to light up the R on the ATX cluster as a neat modification. The ATX starter is compatible since the I4 flexplate and flywheel use the same tooth count. There is a lot of misinformation about that and I can only assume it's not the same for a V6 ATX to MTX swap. You can absolutely keep your I4 ATX starter. Don't underestimate the power of having a friend help you. Even if they know nothing about cars they can at least be there to use the jack if something goes horribly wrong. I'm not going to cover safety procedures that's up to you. I can say we took every safety precaution that we could think of having more jack stands than necessary plus a service jack as a back up. Andy was there for me at a time when I was under a lot of stress and needed help pretty badly. He answered the call and rose the challenge and has become an integral part of many of my videos.. Try to find another Mazda enthusiast in your area that is willing to help you and form a lasting friendship. When there was a puzzle I couldn't figure out Andy was right there with a good answer and vice versa. Two heads are better than one. By the time you're done you'll look back and be amazed at your accomplishment. 2 years later and I still can't believe what we accomplished with no prior experience. Having access to the Work Shop Manual is of critical importance! Sharing the experience with a friend is more rewarding than doing it yourself.
  6. Hi, I have a '99 Mazda 626 LX 2.0L manual trans. My issue is that it's losing oil, but I can't figure out how or what's causing it. A little history on my car. Previously, I was experiencing oil loss due to messed up piston rings. It was assumed they weren't rounded perfectly allowing oil to seap through considering I would get a nice cloud of thick white smoke out of my exhaust every time I'd start my car after the engine had cooled. However, this changed when my engine stopped working. One day, it simply wouldn't turn on. Considering the oil burn and curiousity as to why my engine stopped working randomly, me and my dad decided to rebuild the engine. Or, at least tear it down to see what was wrong. During the tear down, we confirmed the piston rings being not perfectly round. We had the rings hoaned out and rounded off by a shop (which we confirmed ourselves as we built the engine again). We also had some other parts cleaned as necessary and purchased some new parts as necessary, like pistons. Ultimately, after the rebuild was complete, we noticed an oil leak. Turned out my dad improperly installed the main bearing seal. This was quickly resolved after installing another. At this point, there's no leak at all. There's also no smoke coming out of the exhaust on startup when the engine is cooled and nothing during operation that has been noticed. And just to see if it would help, I recently installed a new PCV valve. That was the last thing me and my dad can think of that can cause oil loss. At this point, we are stuck and don't know where else to look. Anyone seen or heard of anything like this or have any ideas on what could be the cause? To my understanding, oil can't just disappear, but there's no leaks, no smoke out the exhaust and a new PCV valve. Any help or advice on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  7. So I have recently acquired a '99 kia sportage, did some research and found out that the 2.0l doc fe engine or fe3 was offered in japan for the 626/Capella. Now my question, what parts from the FET engine could I use, mainly the turbo exhaust manifold. I'm not shy to doing custom but if I can get bolt on parts. Why not. Cheaper, is most of the time better. Unless it's cheap steel.
  8. Ok wondering if anyone has seen and or knows of where i can get one(CHEAP) its the digital error code checker for mazda' ecu's here an image of all i could round up if anyone can help be very helpfull The one above is the newer version (i think) and (i think) this is the older version on the right(No. 49 G018 9A0)