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Found 14 results

  1. dumpsterdrifter

    Im stupidity

    Lots of you may like it or you may not? Lol, i have had several proteges, 323, 626`s and 1 mx6, ive worked on all of them several atx to mtx swaps, to say the least i know my mazdas from a geographical stand point of the cars, i started noticing working in the automotive mechanics field, that they are all very similiar in engineering design, this got my imagination flowing of possibilities, there are many dead end forum post for escorts and proteges, on 5lug and brake conversions, 626, mx6, and probe, do not run into these deadends as commonly, so here is the story. I reluctantly bought a 95 escort station wagon for way to much, blah blah blah, i hated the car it was ugly it was slow and boring, but it ran good and drove from point a to b, woohoo!!!!, i had the racers itch that i had to scratch so i took it to auto x, had lots of fun, the next year it was time for upgrades, ebay everything, lowering springs, racing clutch, struts, short throw shifter and craigslist rims and tires. It killed it the car was finally something i liked and loved, i wore out the clutch, second gear syncro, and the engine was just getting tired, so i bought a 96 ford probe gt 5 speed car, for $200, it ran good but was in horrible condition, i stripped the probe of all nuts bolts and running and suspension gear, and threw away the carcass, so i have gotten pretty far into this build and i apoligize for lack of pictures on alot of specific stuff, but i will answer as many ?? That you all may have, so what i did was removed the front and rear sub frames, from the scort, drilled new holes in the scort and bolted up both front and rear sub frames from the probe, 5lug conversion and rear disc brake upgrade complete. Front brakes are from 2004 mazda 6, standard information to us here at mazda626.net for front brake upgrade, i know that i could have used mx3 parts to make this easier, but im a glutten for punishment, i adapted the steering linkage from rack to column using the scort column, with a little triming the probe cluster fit in the dash, looking decent, i have to modify the probe xmember and adapt the passenger side engine mount bracket, the benefit is 3" wider track all around, heavier equipment, for the engine to bolt to, also i didnt have to search for a mx3 GS, im overwhelmed with wiring and i need a starting point, anyone got any input?
  2. CauseRaceCarBlog


    Hey guys and gals, I had wheel bearing noise the other day and discovered my wheel bearings are gone. I also found that the brake rotors and hubs on the front of the car are all one unit. Has anybody swapped this setup out for a different hub that uses a more modern hub/rotor to make working on the front brake set up easier? I need to change the front bearings and thought that it would be a good idea to just go all out and convert the hubs while I'm at it. Any help on the mater would be awesome. Cheers.
  3. vjerry7013

    Wheel Cylinder Leak

    I have a Mazda 626 2000 I4, and replaced the wheel cylinder for both my rear drum brakes. As I was going through the bleeding process, the wheel cylinder squirted brake fluid through the boot, was it because I installed it wrong, or was the cylinder faulty? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  4. ehask71

    Brake Leak

    I just picked up a 2001 626 2.0 with auto. I see a brake line undone on the block on the firewall it would be the line on drivers side lower line. Someone removed it and put a plug in it but it's leaking the line is there but just sitting with a cap over it. I bought it for my daughter so I want to repair everything. Can anyone post a diagram of where the lines go?? Thx all
  5. So, I am in the midst of massing parts for my GC suspension swap, Going for GE '97 spec. I managed to find an LX 626 with a dead engine and bought the entire running gear; struts, knuckles, brakes, rear trailing arms, and front cv shafts. More on that conversion as it takes shape. So I got to thinking, how can I refinish these calipers? They were rusty: I don't have a sandblaster, and a dremel or wire brush was going to take forever and a day. And 17 years of rust and elements had had their way with these brakes. They still operated freely, but the car they came from was driven on gravel roads a lot. I found this at Canadian Tire: So I bought two bottles and decided to give it a try. It is apparently environmentally safe, and I can confirm it doesn't harm rubber seals. But at $11/bottle, it's not exactly cheap. It has a soapy water texture. So here is the setup: I put the two rear calipers into the solution, and left them for a day. It was already pretty cold here when I started this experiment, and there is no heat in my garage. I was skeptical at first, but the cold temperature didn't stop this from happening: As the solution works, it becomes black. Over the next 2 weeks or so, I shifted the calipers around to get them as submerged as possible, doing one at a time. I didn't take any pictures during this phase, but by the time the solution was black, the calipers were still a bit rusty on the parts that hadn't been submerged as long. So I bought two more bottles of Evapo-Rust, and after a couple more days individual soaking, the calipers looked like this: I'd just finished wire brushing the dried caliper, but I decided to wipe the wet one with a rag instead of letting it dry, and that also worked. The left bracket was only submerged during the last part of the first batch, you can see the difference vs. fresh solution: After re-dipping the left bracket and the e-brake cable mount ends: So now these look like brand f'n new! Now it's time to get them painted... More to come
  6. homelesshomie

    Rear Brake Caliper Help!

    Hey. Im new here. This past summer i bought an 02 626 ES. i have been doing all my own repair. And now i need new brake pads. I went to do it today but im having troubles. i found the little allen screw behind the bolt for releasing the piston. i was turning it and it turned fairly easy but the piston never retracted. and when i pulled the allen wrench out, the hex screw came out too, only it wasnt a screw. it doesnt have threads, it has a gear on the end. but the teeth were mashed up a little. i took it to the grinder and ground it back to where it wasnt mashed anymore, then tried retracting the piston again. but the gear mashed up again. is that hex gear screw supposed to come out? and would i be able to spray inside the hole with penetrating oil? or would i need a new caliper? and if so what is a good caliper to get without spending tons of money? Thanks. I really need to get this fixed asap Also my hand brake has never worked properly. my rear right tire will brake but not lock up and the left side does nothing (the side im having troubles with) would this cause the hand brake to not work too?
  7. pixelpadre

    Rear Brake Drum Removal

    Just did a rear brake job on my 96 626LX. Drum has two silly screws to hold the drum on. Of course they were froze up. I used a solid philips screw driver and a pipe wrench on the screwdriver and they came right out. But the drums were frozen on and werent coming off. After a little bit of research I learned there was a threaded 10mm hole on the drum. Inserting a bolt and turning it a few times, then tapping with a hammer did the trick. There are no videos on 626 rear brake shoe replacement. It wasn't a fun job, but brake shoes never are. The mazda 626 doesnt have what I would call a standard layout of springs and adjusters. Gone are the days of backing up in reverse to adjust your brakes. Now there is a spring loaded cam that constantly keeps pressure on the brakes. Nice idea. Clip are still a nasty pain in the arse too. Why can't someone invent clips that work effortlessly?
  8. aormsby

    Rear Drums Need Replaced

    So my rear drums are shot and need to be replaced. Is there a good walk through/tutorial out there that would be of use? Also I assume that I can get the needed parts at rockauto.com, if that isn't the case is there someone else I can get these parts?
  9. So my ebrake makes a really weird noise when i pull it up. What could this be? it sound like its under my car or somthing but i cant tell IMG_0204.MOV
  10. Hi everyone, I am new to this forum. I have been lurking for a while now! I don't really know too much about cars, but I am very desperate in learning all I can. I just recently bought a Mazda 626 LX. It is a 1999, 4 cylinder, automatic and it is white. It has become my baby in the past four months. I got it with 179K miles for 1400. Everything was working perfectly. I have put about 4 thousand miles on it. I go to college far from my home and so I have been back and forth a few times now. Just last weekend, I had a someone drive the way back and he tried to "rev" the engine. He thought he was being cool, showing a girl how to rev an automatic I guess. I know that's not good for the transmission. I bought the car knowing it had a bad design, but didn't think much of it. I thought mine would be the exception. The other day I was driving and it started acting like I was pressing the brake really hard every 50 meters or so. I had a friend drive it and they told me I needed new brakes. I let the car cool down and took it out to go get the brakes checked the next day. Obviously, I didn't make it. I had to pull over because it stopped accelerating. I would press the gas and the RPMs would go up but nothing would happen. I wouldn't go forward. Every once and a while it'd go backwards, but that was only by luck. I am in love with that car. I don't want to see it go. Also I got it at a really good price and everything else is working so wonderfully. My options: Get the car towed to a transmission shop and get it checked by a computer to see if it is a simple problem... Which would end up being cheaper. But I doubt it is a simple problem, so that may be a waste of time and gas. I don't want to keep bothering people to help me. Get the car to a transmission shop and get a rebuilt for around 2,500 to 3,000 dollars. That is worth more than the car. It would have a three year warranty, and as a college student, I am hesitant to pull out more loans. Get a friend with experience to buy a rebuilt tranny and do a swap in his garage. He has some experience. He said it might be around 1500 in the end. Sell the car as is and buy a new car. I don't know if I'd get maybe 500 out of it? Then I'd be down 900, without a car. I could also fix the car, then sell it. Hopefully only be down 300 or so. Then buy another car? Or should I keep it? And get a transmission cooler? I want the car for another 2 or 3 years. Sorry if I'm not making the most sense. This is all very complicated to me and I would very much appreciate some professional advice. I am asking everyone I know. I have been reading the other transmission feeds and it all seems so hopeless to me. Any information or advice would be so much appreciated!! Thank you for your time and for reading this post! I hope to become an active member if I can get my car running again! Nadya
  11. first of all hi to the community. ive had my lil 626 for about 2 years now and its got about 173k on the odometer. i recently got away from my 01 eclipse spyder and the money hole that was,(way to expensive of a project), so we are going to play with this thing. after reading for about a week now looking at random builds, faqs etc. learning lingo. i figured id put up something about my plans and try to get some advice, and pointers, and who knows maybe find some people in my area that would maybe hang out drink a few and help. well here are my plans, phase one: clean up the interior, paint plastics,(im not a fan of the tan/beige) peel the horrible tint job that previous owner put on off, finish doing a thorough tune up. thus far i have pulled the MAF, throttle body, and egr to clean up. did spark plugs a while back and injector clean as well. Phase two: pull the engine (i pulled the valve cover and its in def need of a inside out cleaning and gasket set). i would like to be very budget friendly on this so i may just do upper and lower gaskets, water pump, and mild machine work and get valve cover and intake mani(if i cant find an aftermarket one for a decent price) powder coated. start suspension work all four corners, shocks struts, sways, tie rods, drag links, etc. get it as close to new as i can. im focusing on oem for now, shocks i would like to upgrade. seen a few that everyones done havent found a place to get them yet. a set of springs would be nice too but again havent found anywhere that has em. Phase three:swap seats out to the mx6s love the way those look in the builds ive looked at. start doing some more appearance mods, ie; interior lighting, system, paint, and continue to find more stuff that i can get from a junk yard from the compatible cars. Phase four: start perfomance mods as i find them and collect nessasary data and other R&D that i need before i start. bouncing the idea of swapping out to mtx, maybe go boosted, who knows. but if anyone has info or suggestions im all ears :) thanx.
  12. Tiberianx

    Disc Retaining Screw

    When I was replacing my brake pads and rotors yesterday, I noticed that I have missing Disc retaining screws from the old rotors, these brakes were previously replaced from a shop a few years ago and I've been driving all this time without it. Question: Are those screws necessary at all or serve any important purposes? I've read somewhere that these screws were used to hold the rotors in place while it was assembled in the factory but not sure if they do anything else afterwards. Without the screws, would they cause brake pulsation over time possibly due to mild back /forth movements, eventually warping the rotors?
  13. Ive got a 4cylinder 5spd transmission l4 626 from 1995 without ABS. Heres what Ive replaced: front rotors, (valuecraft from autozone) front calipers, (rebuilt from autozone) front hoses (one from advance auto, one from oriley) symptoms: shaking while stopping, rubbing sound while driving, shaking above 60 mph. I replaced the rotors and calipers last winter. the new rotors warped instantly. I drove it like that for a few months, and then I went out and picked up the new hoses and had the rotors milled flat again. this time it was good for about 3 months but now they're warped again. do I need a new master cylinder?
  14. I have a problem with the Brakes on my 1991 Mazda 626 DX Normally if you step on the brakes the car gradually slows to a stop as you push in on the pedal. Right? Well when I put my foot on the Brakes I do not get any response until I have almost floored the Brake pedal. I am thinking that I may have a leak in the hydraulic line? Or my Brake shoes are worn out? Any other ides? I do not know much about cars.