https://mazda626.net/rss/5-latest-questions.xml/Latest 50 Technical Questions Asked on Mazda626.netenHave a 1995 626 ES with the 2.5L manual transmission. The check engine light code is a 16. What is the fix for that code? I have replaced the EGR value already.Mon, 16 Mar 2020 23:19:01 +0000I bought a 1995 Mazda 626 for the sole purpose of being ignorant and having fun as a second car. I love ripping the 5 speed but I have started nodding it. New cold air intake, new wheels, and a performance exhaust. Looking to slam the car pretty low to the ground. Saw a set of coilovers that would provided 4 inches of lowering. I'm really wanting to pull the trigger but wanted to know if anybody had anymore options available in the 600-800 dollar price range. Just dont know if 4 inches is enough. I heard of aftermarket top hats but could find any for a mazda 626. Any help would be appreciated.Mon, 16 Mar 2020 23:10:11 +0000Hey there everyone! I'm looking into a suspension upgrade on my 1986 626 LX and I came across these: https://www.amazon.com/Yonaka-Compatible-1993-1997-Coilovers-Suspension/dp/B00A0V17CY I was curious is I could use the stock top hats and spring seats for these coilovers or if I'm gonna have to get creative with bolting the coilovers up. The car handles like a boat and it's in dire need of a suspension overhaul. Any help would be fantastic! Thanks!Mon, 02 Mar 2020 19:01:46 +0000Hey y’all. I’ve been looking for new head lights for my 02 Mazda 626 and can’t find any decent ones that have “02” or “2002” in the title. So my question is do 98-99 headlights fit an 02? Or does anyone know where they sell aftermarket headlights that doesn’t have the manufacture look?Sun, 23 Feb 2020 08:42:05 +0000So we got our 1996 V6 626 two years ago, and I may end up inheriting it (and its issues) in a while. So, there are two main issues I have with it currently, and they might be tied together. The first, and arguably most severe problem is that the trunk refuses to lock, both via the central locking system, and via the rear lock. The second issue is that the rear wiper is acting possessed. Occasionally it'll start up and wipe away to its hearts content (completely at random and unaffected by the controls), and occasionally it'll stop. When it doesn't start up randomly, it usually follows whatever setting the controls are on. I'm thinking that this is an electrical issue.Tue, 18 Feb 2020 10:53:04 +0000Please i need you guys help urgently. I changed my pistol rings which was bad,bringing white smokes. After that my car refuses to start but eventually after checking the electrical,it starts but jerking. Then i called an electrician to fix it, he says we have to service the nozzles. When he is done, my car wont start up again. Its not showing the key indicator on the dashboard, when u put the key, other signs on the dashboard shows except that key indicator. Please i need help. And also i misplaced how to arrange the plug wiring. I need help please. My car is Mazda 626 2001 model. V6.Wed, 12 Feb 2020 22:30:28 +0000Hi Folks, I'm trying to find a 1986 or 1987 Mazda 626 GT Turbo coupe. I live in California and these things are really hard to find. Actually impossible. If you have one you are trying to sell or considering selling please reach out to me. Best, MattThu, 30 Jan 2020 07:26:48 +0000I have a 1987 Mazda 626 hatch 2.2L non turbo auto Starts fine but will not idle and stalls when in park after about 5 seconds and after using the gas pedal to get going it will stall only when stopped in drive for about 10 minutes of the drive then its ok. the faster it gets to running temp just under half then it idles perfect and no stalling. please help I have read alot of other threads but no answers. I had a mechanic check for vacuum leaks and found one where the EGR solenoid is you can see smoke coming out and hear girgling during the vacumm leak test. thanksFri, 24 Jan 2020 03:14:23 +0000Hello all, I have a 2002 mazda with the DOHC V6 motor. I completely rebuilt the top end last year. (the car was bought with a bad head gasket so i never heard it run prior) I put it all back together and checked my timing marks at least 4 times. All the marks on the sprockets are correct but when the engine turns over it sounds like there is ZERO compression and of course it doesn't run......i parked in in the "naughty" corner for a year now and moved on to other projects because i was very frustrated. Just the other day I had some crazy thought.......even though the sprocket cams are all correct is it somehow possible that the second cam that is gear driven on each head possibly would have gotten mixed up in all of the rebuild process thus basically im running 2 intakes and two exhaust cams on the same head? I would think that Mazda would have designed in in such a way as they would not even have fit on there but that is my only other thought....i've tried looking online and cannot find any info on markings of the second camshaft that would show either IN or EX markins so i can pull the covers off and verify. Any thoughts out there for me on this? Is it even remotely possible?Tue, 21 Jan 2020 21:43:16 +0000Loping idle. 2002 Mazda 626 V6 2.5L. Video below. Making a new thread because a lot of updates since last time. New fuel pressure regulator, new EGR valve, new MAF sensor, new throttle position sensor, new PCV valve? Still same problem. Video below. Any other ideas folks? Please advise. Should I junk it?Thu, 16 Jan 2020 10:22:14 +0000Could anyone out there recommend a decent valve spring compressor for the old FE GC 2 litre 8v? Cheers TonyWed, 15 Jan 2020 05:16:55 +00002002 Mazda 626 V6 2.5L Car ran great no issues. Parked it. Two days later went to drive it and car cranks but will not start. Fuel pump is running. Spark plugs have spark. Fuel pressure regulator brand new, Mass Air Flow sensor brand new, throttle position sensor new, EGR valve new. PCV valve new. What gives? Please assist? I'll post a video of me cranking it if it will help?Mon, 13 Jan 2020 15:50:36 +0000Hi guys, my v6 manual transmission cronos developed a rough idle a day after changing a leaking water pump (which I suspect was damaged by a seized thermostat). What are most likely problems causing this? And can I travel a 90mile distance with it while its idling rough? ThanksWed, 18 Dec 2019 16:51:29 +00001999 Mazda 626 2.5 V6. I've got a serious oil leak in the back of the motor. It's hard to see that section because the power steering pump is right in the way. The oil is getting all over the passenger side suspension. I've recently replaced the timing belt, water pump and much more. Someone suggested it was the Oil Sending Unit, Oil Pressure Sensor, that may have broke and is leaking. Though I already purchased the replacement unit, I was unable to find any information on the location of the unit to confirm I'm barking up the right tree before I start ripping into the job. FYI: the head gasket is dry and doesn't appear to have any leaks in that suspect area. I don't know what the problem with the site was, but I nearly lost my mind not being able to access this extremely helpful knowledge base. Please don't disappear again.Tue, 17 Dec 2019 08:38:48 +0000Hello, I recently bought a 2,0L coupé from 1985 and I tried to install a new radio, since the last one was stolen. I got the radio to work but when i turn on the lights, the radio turns off. I know i plugged the negative onto the illumination wire but i cant find the negative wire designed specificly to connect the head unit, do i have to wire it to the body? Also i would like to know which wire is responsible for the antenna because i dont get any AM/FM transmission. ThanksSun, 15 Dec 2019 18:06:09 +0000Good day to you all. Awhile back I noticed the clutch pedal point of engagement move much closer to the floor. At first I thought the problem was caused by leaking master and/u release cylinders. After changing both, it was possible to shift gears and drive the vehicle, however, the lower-than-normal engagement issue persisted. While changing said cylinders, I noticed horizontal and vertical free play in clutch release fork that I don't remember having during the previous times doing the same repair. Upon doing research the evidence seems to be pointing toward the problem being caused by a broken and/or disconnected pivot ball. Wondering if anyone has experienced a similar issue and/or has insight in the matter and if so if you would be willing to share thoughts. Will try to share photos and/or videos. Thanks in advance, JoeSat, 14 Dec 2019 18:52:42 +0000Thanks in advance for any and all ideas! I have a 1999 626 I4 2.0L manual transmission with about 135000 miles. Recently, it was having a tough time starting, and could only start with the accelerator pedal pressed somewhat. I took it into the shop, and the mechanic found a vacuum leak, and replaced the intake manifold gasket. He mentioned that the IAC may need to be replaced too, and said it would idle a bit low until the computer readjusted. Over the next couple weeks, it drove somewhat okay but with low idle, and the engine would sometimes stall at a stop with the AC turned on. Suspecting the IAC, I bought a new cheapo replacement off of Amazon. The IAC has a metal manifold side, and a solenoid side. The manifold side is difficult to remove from the throttle housing body, so I just removed the torx screws holding the two parts together, and put the new solenoid + plunger on the old manifold. With the new solenoid on, I started the car. The engine surges to 4000 rpm for about 10 seconds and then hunts between 1200 and 1500 back and forth every couple seconds or so. I let the car run like this stationary for about 15 minutes hoping the computer would relearn the new IAC, but no luck. Here's the weird part. I put the old IAC solenoid back on, and got the same engine surge followed by idle hunting. If I unplug the IAC, the car drives mostly fine after I warm it up with some foot on the gas; otherwise it would idle around 500. I took the car back to the mechanic and he checked that there is no other vacuum leak, and reset the ECU several times, but it makes no difference. The mechanic suggested replacing the entire throttle body, but that seems like a lot of work just based on a hunch. I read that I may need to reset the ECU's IAC settings by removing the IAC connector and TPS connector, turning the car to ON for 30 seconds then OFF, then plugging the connectors back in. I tried this with no effect. Anyone have any ideas on what to try next? Thanks!Sun, 13 Oct 2019 22:40:06 +0000I have seen this posted here in a search but with no replies, I have dug as much as I can and have found little info about this issue. Basically this car is a customer, they simply bought it and wanted to get the a/c working, I diagnosed it as a blocked up accumulator so I got a four seasons kit from RockAuto, replaced the compressor and orifice tube, however the accumulator connection going to the evaporator was too small, sent it back and ordered and different brand (GPD) and it was the same way, O'Reilly was able to get their hands on a four seasons, and of course it's also too small. The local Mazda dealer says they can't even get their hands on one. So I did more digging and discovered that the accumulators are different after 4/22/02 build date, however I cannot figure out how to search for one. I fear my only option is to talk this guy into now buying an evaporator and paying me to pull the dash and replace assuming the one I order will match up to the accumulator I now have on hand. I'm hoping someone has ran into this issue and may know a solution better than pulling the dash, the guy got the car at a good price, but he's paying me to do the a/c system, plus I rebuilt the struts and replaced rear sway bar bushings and got it lined up, so he's not gonna want to spend any more but the car is in great shape. Any help or info would be well received thanx for reading.Sun, 13 Oct 2019 17:16:24 +0000I have a 2000 626. Driving home last night all of my tail lights suddenly stopped working. No rear brake lights, parking lights, turn signals License plate bulb is on 3rd brake light (in rear window) works. Gauge cluster has illumination. Headlights and front turn signals/parking lights work. I checked all fuses and they appear fine. Can anyone help me out? I have done some searching but not found anything that matches exactly. Need to fix this by the start of the week and can't drive it like it is to a shop (re safety)Thu, 10 Oct 2019 16:57:27 +0000How do you change out the 120A fuse some call mainline fuse and others call a battery terminal fuse on a 2000 Mazda Millenia i disconnected the battery terminal cables but there is no where to take out the fuse and replace it. Mazda dealer says it has little bolts that hold it in and nope did not find any little boltsTue, 08 Oct 2019 21:33:02 +0000Hello all! I'm having a heck of a time trying to find the upper/lower spring seat insulators for the front struts. The front driver's side on my, the upper insulator is rotting out and making handling pretty terrible. I was thinking of doing the heater hose trick instead of getting the right sized hose to slip onto the top and bottom of the spring. Has anyone tried this and/or know where to find the correct insulators? Thanks!Thu, 03 Oct 2019 07:00:45 +0000Hello all! I'm having a heck of a time trying to find the upper/lower spring seat insulators for the front struts. The front driver's side on my, the upper insulator is rotting out and making handling pretty terrible. I was thinking of doing the heater hose trick instead of getting the right sized hose to slip onto the top and bottom of the spring. Has anyone tried this and/or know where to find the correct insulators? Thanks!Thu, 03 Oct 2019 06:49:58 +0000Can anyone tell me the size of the left hand fan and how to fit itThu, 03 Oct 2019 04:12:46 +0000I have a 1998 626 V6. I am loosing coolant at a high rate and its leaking right under where the water pump is located. I have also noticed that I have bubbles in my radiator. Would a bad water pump cause this issue?Fri, 27 Sep 2019 21:07:14 +0000Hello, My 2000 V6, with a manual tranny needs an engine replacement. Looking local and online, and it seems as though I have a narrow option for engines that are direct fit/plug and play for my year car. (For instance, when I search for engines for my 2000, the only options are 1999-98 engines, and the results are more narrow if I search by VIN. However, if I search for 2001 or 2002 engines I get more of a selection.) It has me VERY confused! I would logically think any motor from 98-2002 would fit without issue?! Does anyone know why these different year engines are not interchangeable (low emissions vs. federal, manual vs. automatic, harnesses, etc...)? Does any of this make sense? I have searched the forum, but the information provided is not absolute. Any help would be appreciated, as I don't want to make a mistake purchasing the wrong engine.Fri, 27 Sep 2019 17:20:09 +0000Hi, looking to do an auto to manual conversion, but the manual box I am getting is on a diesel RF. Will that fit onto the FE engine? CheersFri, 20 Sep 2019 06:39:36 +0000I am trying to bring a 1999 626 back from the dead. So far, I have replace the battery. The fuel gauge seems to be stuck at empty. I put in approximately two gallons of gas. If I spray starting fluid in the air filter, it will start and run for a few seconds. Otherwise, nothing happens when I turn the key. Does this sound like a bad fuel pump? Are there other steps to isolate the issue?Tue, 17 Sep 2019 21:04:14 +0000Hey guys, does this 626 of mine have two separate modules, i.e. both an ECM and a PCM? From https://www.king6fab.com/how-to-technical-help/technical/ecu-pinout-diagrams/2135-2-5/ My "ECU" that is located forward of the manual trans shifter, under the radio doesn't have pin outs like that. It is a FSG2 Mitsubishi part. My question is there another "PCM" located elsewhere in the car. Thanks for any help. This thing has been an adventure. MangusSat, 14 Sep 2019 16:57:19 +0000Hey guys, while checking the VIN on this car, the tag inside the door stated "Bumper and Theft protection". I've been chasing a no-spark condition in this car for awhile now - what theft protection does the 1997 626 have? Thanks MangusSat, 14 Sep 2019 15:55:25 +0000Seraphim 0 Posted 2 minutes ago I have a 1999 626 2.0 4cyl manual trans. with 235K miles. Its in sweet condition until...i had it eashed and detailed today, after a good rain, and drove 5 miles back to work. It sat for 3 more hours. It started without issue as always and when I pulled up to my house I turned it off. NOW, I went back out to start it and it clicks ONCE. Only one click. No turn. No repetitive clicking. Just one click. Battery reads full. Dash cluster ia fine. Just one click. No turn. Help!Fri, 13 Sep 2019 21:58:08 +0000Hello, I am trying to find a replacement Mass Air Flow Sensor for my Mazda 626 1988 coupe, as it has developed a rough engine idle ! ... does any one know if this part was shared with any other car, or is it possible to get this part repaired / overhauled. C.Tue, 10 Sep 2019 22:34:22 +0000lets start off by this i replace the timing belt after the job. the electrical system in the entire car illumination also connecting with the coil pack doesn't keep a steady current flow to every connection. i replace the alternator (because the old one had oil). thats a reman. has a brand new battery. but the car continues to rise and drop RPMS (750-500) it repeats with a one sec tick in PARK, DRIVE,REVERSE, OR COLD START IDLE. (note) the car is setup with a amp and aftermarket stereo connected with a second battery for the amp load. i moved around wiggling any power wires thats on the main fuse box, tried the positive wire that generate power current. checked the belt tension. now once the car idles down to normal, temperature coolant normal. instrument cluster flashes me a Battery sign when the engine cycle one spin around (so 750 RPMS DROPS TOO 500RPMS RECOVERS BACK TO 750RPMS[BATTERY FLASHES] I'm reaching out to you guys cause this is my very car i own and really enjoy this car and would be very devastating to junk the carSat, 07 Sep 2019 20:34:29 +0000Hey all. I've combed through here and the Net pretty thoroughly to find the wiring diagrams for a '97 2.0 liter manual trans 626 with not much luck. May have to buy a Mazda copy off of Ebay. Anyone have a link or the PDFs? Specifically trying to find where the green and blue wires coming from the crankshaft sensor connect to the ECU/PCM. This has the 'FSG2' PCM, three connectors. Still chasing a no-spark condition on this car. Thanks much. MangusTue, 03 Sep 2019 14:18:28 +0000My key will lock the driver and passenger doors but won’t unlock them. Works perfectly fine in the ignition.Sat, 31 Aug 2019 20:52:42 +0000Just changed the timing belt on my 626 and now it idles rough and dies after a few seconds any suggestions?Mon, 26 Aug 2019 02:15:48 +00002002 Mazda 626 2.5L V6 Was throwing the P0400 CEL code (EGR code). Also had a lopping idle and ran rough and started rough. Replaced EGR valve with a brand new one. It fixed nothing. Exact same symptoms and issues. Any thoughts before junking this thing? @admins PLEASE DELETE THIS THREAD. New updated thread here...Tue, 20 Aug 2019 17:30:19 +0000Fri, 16 Aug 2019 07:30:44 +0000I need to replace my downstream O2 sensor, but I’m not sure where it’s at. I drive a 1997 626 if that helps at all. I just need to know how to access it and get it changed. Thanks for the help!!Wed, 14 Aug 2019 22:35:48 +0000Hi there, anyone having an old A-Pillar antenna for miy 1979 626 CB2 Coupé? Cheers, BenniMon, 12 Aug 2019 12:07:29 +0000Howzit, New to the forum and 626 world... Purchased a 79 626 sedan in Feb and finally gotten around to exploring the water oil mixing in the MA. Thought it may have been a gasket but they all looked pretty good. After taking the water pump off I noticed a few fractures in the timing cover. Then pulled the timing cover foward.to have a look and the back appears to have a series of cracks in it. Seems to be the only place that could be leaking... So wondering if anyone may know where I could find a timing cover? Any help is appreciated. CheersMon, 12 Aug 2019 01:35:38 +0000Hello I have a 1989 Mazda 626 2.2 NA. A couple of the hoses that are going into the charcoal canister of my car are loose. I was wondering if someone had a picture of theirs or knew where to fit them.Sat, 10 Aug 2019 22:36:26 +0000Thu, 08 Aug 2019 02:23:43 +0000Hello there, first of all thanks for all of you guys working this forum. I've been able to fix this 626 I got. I'll be short: I've been experiencing coolant loss, checked all hoses, no punctures, my overflow tank "over fills" and I get coolant out (I top it just a tad bit over low level, say, mid level, and after driving for a relative mid distance I check the tank and it's topped). So I checked the hose that's below the overflow tank (overflow tank needs replacing, will get this weekend), disconnected it and blew air inside and into what I call "thermostat housing", and to my surprise It's clogged. Stripped open the thermostat housing cover to check it up inside. Found rust. Blew air inside the tube that connects to the "Tstat Housing" (will refer it to as TH) and yes it's clogged. The "L" shaped tube on the upper side of the housing where the tube that comes below the Overflow tank is rusted also. Since the L shape tube on the upper side of the housing is rusted and corroded I'm planning on cutting the tube out and solder another one in place, but I'm guessing if that will do. I'm unable to find the piece. Will the l4 thermostat housing fit the V6 one? I can't seem to find parts for the V6 on the yard, but there's plenty of l4's (sigh). Also, I'm guessing that little L shaped thingy that the tube coming from the Overflow tank just let's coolant flowe in, instead of vapor out or so, I'm uncertain since a friend of mine told me that it might be some sort of of release. Idk. Quiestions on a simple context: Is the l4 thermostat housing compatible with the V6? If I decide to fix my housing, will a simple "cut and solder" fix it he solution?. Can't seem to find problems related to the housing. I'll post some images here. Sorry for my bad English.Wed, 07 Aug 2019 16:53:31 +0000Im reassembling the FS engine 2.0L 4cyc 2001 626. Whats best way to prime the oil pump. I rebuilt my '03 Impala 3800 engine, the manual said to pack the oil pump with Vaseline and that didn't work well at all, to get it pumping, I had to overfill the oil by about 1.5-2 qts. So has anyone primed their pump some how during a rebuild. Nothing in the WSM on it. Thanks DonTue, 06 Aug 2019 00:34:47 +0000I have a 94 ford probe 2.0l auto clean body with only 100k on it. Pulled the tranny. Was gonna buy a 1993 parts car to do a manual conversion. Will the pins on the ECU be the same or will I need to pull a 94 ECU? Any tips or anything I need to know is greatly appreciated. Edit: If I don't change the ECU or harness other than the O/D light and CEL what are the other issues with not changing it?Mon, 05 Aug 2019 21:28:50 +0000Hello everybody, I am a new owner of Mazda 626, 1.8 petrol,1996. Please help me in 2 problems, which may be related: 1) When I press the acceleration more strongly (ex, overtaking) it seems like someone's throat, it doesn't accelerate, it doesn't pull and it feels interruptions. If I lift the foot off the pedal and push it easier it will recover. 2) While running, if I switch to neutral, the engine speed ranges from 1500-500-1200-700-1500 rpm and so on. When I stopped the car the engine speed at idle remains fixed at 1400 rpm. Where do I start from? I apologize for any translation errors (google translate).Mon, 05 Aug 2019 20:41:58 +0000Alright I have the 1993 mazda 626 lx 4cyl it was my grandpa's car that I had bought after he passed I do love this thing so I'm trying to keep her alive.....so it's a problem with an sensor I'm guessing but at most lights in neutral it will raise in rpms about 1100 and engine light comes on sometimes it happens when I'm driving and it will accelerate by itself..this is with no load (lights and ac) and with full load ....I've changed throttle position sensor...I just changed the entire throttle body with all new sensors sitting here in the driveway and it's doing it all over again ...does anyone have any ideas??Sun, 04 Aug 2019 18:41:23 +0000is there anybody out there ?????????????????????Mon, 29 Jul 2019 21:22:58 +0000Hi everyone, My 2002 626 2.0 had the O/D go out on the way home from work, that is it is stuck in NOT overdrive. This limits me to like 30 mph because the car is geared so low. The button on the side of the shifter for the on/off of the OD broke a few years ago and I was able to use a thin pointed object to place it back into OD were I left it. I tried the same procedure, but it will not work now. This leaves me in a bad spot as I can not get to work without OD as my job is a 30miles away by highway. I am looking for advise in how to get the OD back on again. I pulled the shifter apart to try and touch the wires togther to see if I could get it working and that did not work either, only further damaged the shifter. I can shift it but cannot reassemble it, which is a moot point now. Looking for suggestions, or is this car done.Fri, 26 Jul 2019 22:00:24 +0000hey guys I have an 1989 626 2.2 w.o. turbo.. was running ok until fuel pump quit I replaced that, and starts fine cold drive ten- fifteen min. stop and it will still start, but wait ten-fifteen min. and try no start have to wait about half hour maybe more and starts fine... id say maybe vapor lock?? but its got fuel injection any clues out there ??? got me stumped thanksFri, 26 Jul 2019 21:26:40 +0000