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leeds95626lx

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About leeds95626lx

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  • Car
    626LX V6 M-trans (two, 1999 & 2000)
  1. Thanks very much for the info and suggestions! It will be a few days before I have a chance to work on it. I'll let you know what I find.
  2. The car is a 1999 Mazda 626LX V6 M-trans (VIN # 1YVGF22D2X5864368) with 280K miles. Just an old beater but I enjoy it too much to give it up. I
  3. My car is a US-spec car and the only diagnostic port about which I'm aware is under the dash where the code-scanner plugs in. By the time I got to the point of figuring out whether I could use that port to complete the Haynes diagnostic by jumpering the "30" pin to ground, I was low on patience and decided to go with my hunch that the fuel pump was the culprit. I put the rear end of the car high on good jackstands (front wheels securely chocked) and followed grey626's write-up about how to replace the pump ... not dropping the tank completely but lowering the front edge of it enough to R&
  4. Thanks for the tips. I ended up replacing the fuel pump even though I wasn't certain that was the problem. After I finished installing the pump, the car started immediately and it runs fine.
  5. Thanks for the tips. The only diagnostic port I'm aware of on the car is under the dash where the CEL codes can be read. The Haynes manual didn't say anything about using the diagnostic port but, as I mentioned, the manual is vague. I decided to go ahead and replace the pump ... hope to have the car back together tomorrow. Will let you know if it solves the problem.
  6. Thanks for the quick answer, Snailman! I removed the EGI relay because I thought that was part of following the fuel pump diagnostic in the Haynes manual. The manual calls for fuel pump relay, which I assume is the same as the one labeled "EGI" on my car. My understanding is that the fuel pump on a 2000 model is jumpered by shorting the "30" terminal to ground and, since the relay is plugged into what is basically a shallow hole in the relay box, I thought Haynes must mean the relay is to removed from the fuse box during this test (with the jumper wire going to ground from the "30 terminal"
  7. I have a 2000 626 V6 m-trans with 157K miles. Grey626 ... thanks for the time-saving thread below and the helpful pics! http://mazda626.net/...it/#entry337545 I've learned a lot on this forum from thoughtful contributors such as Snailman and NickR (and others) ... and I really appreciate contributors who take time to post helpul info like you've done here. If I end up having to replace the fuel pump, it your post will be a big help. Now to my problem. My car failed to start at the gas station after refueling. No prior warning ... it was running fine and had 1/4 tank of fuel when I sto
  8. I have a 2000 626 V6 m-trans with 157K miles. Grey626 ... thanks for this time-saving write-up and helpful pics! I've learned a lot on this forum from thoughtful contributors such as Snailman and NickR (and others) ... and I really appreciate contributors who take time to post helpul info like you've done here. Now to my problem. My car failed to start at the gas station after refueling. No prior warning ... it was running fine and had 1/4 tank of fuel when I stopped to add a few additional gallons. When it failed to start after adding fuel, I suspected bad fuel from the station. Howeve
  9. I had read on the forum that 1995 and later cars don't have the problem but since mine's a 1999 model, I figured that conclusion must have been incorrect. Does any forum member have any opinion about which reman brands are the best? Changing the caliper isn't a difficult job but my daughter has this car at school 250 miles away and it's inconvenient to have it fail. I've already changed it twice and I'd like to only have to do it once more if possible. As I mentioned earlier, I currently have the e-brake disconnected from the malfunctioning caliper; she drives it daily and it's OK but I'd
  10. Snailman ... sorry I forgot to answer your question about the return springs on the caliper e-brake cable pivot levers. Yes, the return springs came on the reman calipers I bought from Advance. As I mentioned, when I get a chance I'm going to try a different brand of reman.
  11. Yep ... I think you're right. It'll be several weeks before I get a chance to do that, but I'll post the results. Tks again for the help. This forum is a huge help to a DIYer.
  12. Thanks for the suggestion. I had actually already read your post recounting that incident and have stuffed grease into the piston retraction gear hole as you suggested. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem to have helped in my case. Local Mazda dealer quotes $160 for a "Mazda" reman caliper (new one no longer available) with a 1-yr warranty and says they never have trouble with them. "Best available reman OEM" calipers seem to be widely available on the internet for approx $85. I'm not sure what to do except to try yet another caliper. Tks for your help, though.
  13. I am the new owner of a 1999 626LX V6 with 5-spd manual transmission and 4-wheel disc brakes. It has 170K miles on it and is in good shape; it
  14. The surface on which I'm checking the lube appears level enough to be reliable ... it's the concrete floor of my carport. The filler hole for the tranny is pretty small so I'm only able to insert my little finger when I'm trying to see how far below the lip of the hole the actual fluid level is now that I've put 2.9 qts in. Nevertheless, I can't feel any fluid level in the tranny yet, even when I "hook" my little finger down as far as possible (which is probably 1/4" - 3/8" below the edge of the hole.) The Haynes manual says the fluid should drip out of the filler hole when correctly filled
  15. I'm the new owner of a USA-spec '99 626LX V6 with 5spd manual transmission, 170k miles and clean condition. Immediately after I bought the car, I took it to Jiffy Lube and had them change both engine oil (Pennzoil 10W-30) and transmission lube (Pennzoil 75W-90 GL4). That was approx 3k miles ago. I've since changed the engine oil to Mobil 1 10W-30 and am now in the process of changing the gear lube to Mobil 1, too (75W-90 synthetic GL5). I've read the forum exhaustively regarding different recommendations for gear lube in this tranny (sulfur warnings, Redline MT90 recommendations, dino vs s
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