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tbm3fan last won the day on March 7 2017

tbm3fan had the most liked content!

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About tbm3fan

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  1. I bought an NOS Denso pump off my very favorite eBay reseller, who obtains inventory from closed stores/dealers, for a whole $90. It was originally for the 90 626 but alas some jerk stole the car several months ago so it goes into my 91.
  2. Since the car has 4 speakers and you imply one is buzzing then one would simply replace the back speaker. Or replace both since they tend to be sold in sets.
  3. https://www.atlantamazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_product=42555052&ukey_assembly=5662948
  4. I have a hatchback and the interior button hasn't worked in years. Now I can just use the key and you can't...?
  5. If it has as much miles as he says then the cylinders will probably need to be bored. This is what I would do since it is exactly what I did awhile back on my Ford 360 V8. Since I had already done a Ford 302 and 289 it was very much the same. I removed the engine and broke it done completely. It was obvious the bearings needed to be replaced. A cylinder wall had a gouge. I miked a few cylinders and decided I could go .020 over. I l already had a 390 crank ready that was .010 under. The rods needed to be resized. So now off to my machine shop. One guy handles the heads and the other guy handles the blocks. I discussed it with them and then they gave me their recommendations. Now this is a V8 so that means 8 sets of everything and not 4 sets. My engine was also balanced which many don't do. I supplied the cam I wnated and the valve springs. I let them assemble the engine this time so my time was short. For $100 it was actually a bargain. I end up coming out with a 390 engine with the machine work, head work and all the needed parts all for $2300 which included a sleeve. That is San Francisco Bay Area price. A four is definitely less than that. These same guys will one day do my Mazda engine along with two others.
  6. Glad to hear. One just doesn't replace a ball joint on these cars. Always better to replace the entire control arm rather than deal with knocking out a ball joint. Now if it is an upper control arm on say a 1967 full size Mercury you do drill out the rivets and replace the ball joint. This job isn't that hard to do except you need a 1/2" drive ratchet with sockets along with a tool to separate the ball joint stud from the knuckle. Then reassemble, lower the car, and then do the final torquing of the two bolts that attach the control arm with the cars weight on them.
  7. Time to get under your car. Original suspension components? First thing to look at is your lower control arms, ball joints and mounting bolts front and rear. Second, is there excessive play in the steering rack? Third, are your tie rods and do the tires show any signs of toe being off. If everything is original then it is time for you to make a decision on replacing everything in your suspension. That means new control arms with ball joints, new outer and inner tie rods, new stabilizer bushings, possibly new struts including their upper mounts. I have done that on both of mine and they handle great and track true. Of course doing this in the driveway is easy as these cars are easy to work on compared to my 73 Dodge as an example just for ball joints. Anyway examine the lower control arms carefully.
  8. https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=299780&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14346&modelYear=1990&ukey_category=20232 or https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=298781&ukey_make=995&ukey_model=14346&modelYear=1990&ukey_category=24716 Middle of intake wouldn't be a coolant hose if it exits valve cover via metal outlet and connects to large intake duct. That would be a ventilation hose. Take a look at two links to diagrams and blow them up.
  9. I would say common for these older cars. That has happened in both my 90 and 91. One common denominator is that it always happens when the weather is cold. Therefore quiet all spring through fall and then in winter with 50 degree days they will do it. Not every single time but often enough. Bounce around, noise, stabilize high, then stabilize correctly and never do it again for the rest of the day. Most likely an issue where the cable goes into the speedometer. I have a new cable for that but it just isn't a high priority item when busy with more important vehicle upkeep.
  10. Wonder what happened. I suspect the first issue with the timing mark on the balancer is that it is obscured. By now it should be pretty dirty and I know that little line is hard to see even in the best of times. Plus the angle to see it, especially for someone who hasn't looked at many, is not that easy. The lower cover should have been easy enough to see with a small flashlight prior to checking the timing. That makes the second issue somewhat obvious also. I have two of these cars and need to get them smogged also. When I brought my wife's 90 in the younger fellow went "Wow, this is an old car". I showed that guy where the marks were. It is no longer an issue since the cars have had the timing sets changed out and all the marks have been painted white. Piece of cake now.
  11. Well it doesn't matter at this time. She went over a parking lot speed bump and it turned the light green and the lights stopped flashing. Well, at least till next time unless I find the spot to disconnect.
  12. Does anybody have the anti-theft system in their 88-92? Reason I ask is because it seems my 1990 does. There is supposed to be a blank panel next to the electric mirror adjust switch down on the left side. This blank panel has a small red light that I always wondered about after getting the car. A week ago my wife told me that her dash lights were flashing off and on while driving. I went into the car and started it, while dark, and yes the dash lights flashed. So did the parking lights and that little red light on the lower dash. I thought this is a car alarm but from where? Car has no way of arming as all there is is just a key for the door. If the lights are turned on then the flashing stops so I told my wife to drive during the day with the lights on for now. With rain and darkness it is hard to get a look into this. So I wonder if there is an alarm partially left over from years ago? A factory Mazda alarm. A defective flasher? Need to see if there is anything I can pull to stop this.
  13. At least I know where the gauge is. http://www.atlantamazdaparts.com/p/Mazda_1990_626/METER--FUEL/42634375/GN5155481.html
  14. Ok, problem was solved last night in the dark. When I turned the car on to move it back into it's place it started this stumble right away unlike before when it took time to start. Building so to speak. I actually opened the hood to check the PS motor mount which seems to have gone. OEM is definitely the only way to go despite the price. So with the hood open in the dark I immediately saw the #3 spark plug wire shorting to the exhaust manifold cover. Voila!!! Somehow the stutter was interpreted as a code 6 for VSS issue. Of course, nothing in the garage, but there soon will be several Densco sets. Pulled the wire off the 91 and placed it on the 90. This night my wife tells me the car runs great. Great except for the shaking at idle and in reverse from the PSM. Mazda to the rescue in a few days there. Oh the air hose on the car is a new NOS one I got off eBay cheap in the original bag.
  15. The 90 is getting a little jerky at times either when at speed or moving away from stop the last two weeks. CEL gives a steady 6 pulses and repeats. That corresponds to speed sensor. Now this is where I am getting pissed. The manual mentions vehicle speed sensor twice. Once in the automatic transaxle and then cruise control sections. Tells you how to test using 1M and then rotate the speedo gear looking for 4 .5 volts four times on the voltage meter. Great but try to find a section where it shows you where this sensor is located. Mazda parts lookup does not list a VSS in their schematics to buy the part. It shows you the pulse generator when you search for a VSS. Rock Auto doesn't list a pulse generator but does list a VSS. The picture resemble a pulse generator as seen in the Mazda catalog at roughly the same price. I see a pulse generator on the tranny from above. So what is the deal. Is there, or is there not, a VSS on our cars. Or is this VSS found on 93 and up while the older gen uses a pulse generator???
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