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About shaundarbie

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 02/06/1980

Previous Fields

  • Car
    1998 626 LX, 2.0L, Manual

Contact Methods

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Eden Prairie, MN
  • Interests
    Family, cars, sports, law school
  1. shaundarbie

    Signing Off

    My plans for the 3 are very mild. I'm a boring 30-year-old real estate attorney now, so I won't go crazy. TWM short shifter, leather shift boot w/silver stitching, drop-in K&N, and a shark fin antenna. I'm happy with the Bose sound system, so no planned upgrades there; same with the factory 17" wheels. I may look into an OEM spoiler. Maybe in a few years I'll want to crank up some more HP, but for now it's fine power-wise. It's by no means a "fast" car, but it is reasonably quick and fun to drive, a little go-kart like. Much faster than my 626, at least. Lots of good memories from this site, just got so busy the last few years that I've rarely been around... I was extremely lucky to find this 3. Literally, it is exactly the car I wanted. Mazda all the way. Next purchase will be a CX-9 for my wife. :D I'll post pics if I get around to it. For now, here's a picture of what it looks like (except I don't have spoiler/shark fin):
  2. shaundarbie

    Signing Off

    Long time, no posts for me, but I'm a soon-to-be former 626 owner. I just bought a pearl white '06 Mazda3 S Grand Touring sedan, 5 speed, fully loaded. Bought it from the original owner who completely babied it, mint condition, and was only 10 min. from my house. Amazing find, and it came together very quickly. Coincidentally, I just hit 200,000 mi. in the 626. I'm a little sad to see it go, such a great car and so dependable. Probably saved me financially while I was in school. I don't imagine it'll fetch much on Craigslist, what with the high mileage and a few mechanical quirks that I didn't have a problem living with. Thanks to all for the many helpful posts and information.
  3. shaundarbie

    Inner Tie Rods

    Got it. Thanks for the input, guys. Actually what happened is I went to a different parts store--O'Reilly/Checker--and they had the correct removal tool (a loaner). I had the inners off in seconds.
  4. shaundarbie

    Inner Tie Rods

    To see the crows foot in action, see this video at about 3:50: Video.
  5. shaundarbie

    Inner Tie Rods

    Snail--I'm in the middle of your method (removing the airbox). You're right--it does give better access to the driver-side. Any tricks to loosening it? What about those holes in the inners, presumably with pins in them (at least, the new inners I picked up came with two pins each; I'm assuming the installed part has them, too)--what are those for? Do I need to punch them out before I can loosen the tie rods? I.e., are they staked?
  6. shaundarbie

    Inner Tie Rods

    Well, I tried searching again and found this: Inner Tie Rod Thread. Looks like Napa might have it, and the thread confirms that Autozone has the wrong one. When I searched for "inner" I got nothing. Search for "inne*" and I get 3 pages of results. Weird. BTW, the 4-letter requirement for search terms is annoying...can't search for "tie rod."
  7. shaundarbie

    Inner Tie Rods

    Hey buddy, I poke my head in from time-to-time. I went ahead and pulled the pass-side boot off the rack. I can see that the inner tie rod has a square "head" to unscrew. It's about 30mm or 1 1/8" and the biggest wrench I have for that is an adjustable. Well, it doesn't quite fit in there to unscrew the inner tie rod, and a quick glance to the driver-side tells me its even worse over there (tranny is in the way). So, I need an inner tie rod removal tool. Problem is, I haven't found a parts store with the correct fitting for the tube wrench thing. The inners have a roundish ball just before the head...I'll post a pic here in a bit. I wonder if I need a fitting like in this video: . Or something like this: wrench pic, with a removable fitting piece.I guess another approach would be a crowsfoot wrench...any thoughts?
  8. shaundarbie

    Inner Tie Rods

    Has anyone replaced the inner tie rods? If so, I have a few questions: -Were you able to do this w/o removing the steering rack? -What tool do you need for removal? The long tube wrench? If so, what fitting will I need at the end of the tube wrench? Square/six point/etc.? Or can you fit a big adjustable in there? I'd like to figure this out before removing the boot. Thanks...I searched but oddly enough found zero posts about the inners.
  9. shaundarbie

    Help -- Need Picture Of Clutch Pedal/pushrod

    I'll see about getting you a pic, but what you have looks correct. The only thing you're missing is the little rubber pad on the metal tab at the bottom of the pedal bracket [keeps it from making a clunk noise when you floor the pedal], but this is purely for aesthetics. The sliding cotter pin thing does nothing, it's just a depth of travel indicator that might be useful when making adjustments. My suggestion to you would be to make sure that the pedal assembly is actually sitting flush against the firewall. If I remember correctly, the bracket studs are what hold the master cylinder on, so you had to loosen them in order to replace it. If a bit of carpet or sound proofing matting got wedged behind it as you were tightening down the nuts, the pedal wouldn't sit close enough to the slave cylinder anymore. As for the play in the clevis, mine has that too. If you look at it closely, you'll see that it's actually wearing a slot groove in the bracket every time you press the clutch [there is a large load on this pin, since the pedal is in essence a force multiplying lever]. Unless the pin is at risk of falling out, I'd say it's fine, just put some high pressure grease in there [i.e. wheel bearing grease]. Last but not least, did you compare the old master cyl. to the new one? Were they identical? Thanks Snail. Long time, buddy. Yeah, I lost that rubber piece some time ago. Kinda annoying. In hindsight, I should have removed more of the pedal assembly when removing the master (i.e., the bracket studs you mentioned). Instead I just felt out where interior-side mounting nut was and sneaked a socket in there. Ended up being a ROYAL pain, though, especially when installing the new one. Thanks for the piece of mind on the cotter pin--I suspected that was the case. And yes, the new master was identical. After replacing the slave yesterday and bleeding the heck out of it, my clutch is *almost* back to normal. Pedal feels mostly right, except that there is a slight hitch on pedal return. The hitch seems to be coming from the above-mentioned clevis. I'll pop some grease on there to see if it makes a difference--thanks for the suggestion.
  10. shaundarbie

    Help -- Need Picture Of Clutch Pedal/pushrod

    Here is a picture of my clutch pedal, etc.: My clutch pedal, etc. The red arrow points to the pin thing. The blue circle identifies the clevis mentioned above. As I look at the picture, I realize the pedal is most of the way down to the floor... Any help? Can anyone post a pic of their clutch pedal/pushrod/etc.? Thanks!
  11. Help! I need a picture of the clutch pedal, specifically the pushrod that plunges the clutch master cylinder. I just replaced the master, but I'm not sure everything went back together right. If needed, I'll post a picture of mine so you you can see what I mean. Haynes manual does not have any helpful pics of this. Also, some questions: -I can wiggle the pushrod a fair amount with my hand. It seems a bit loose at the clevis. Is this normal? How much play should it have, or should it be more rigid? -What is the snap-on pin thing on the pushrod? On the master cylinder end of the pushrod there is a groove; is this for setting the pushrod to the correct length, i.e., the pin goes in the groove until you tighten the pushrod adjustment nut, and then just slides up the pushrod w/o function?
  12. shaundarbie

    Front License Plate Mounting

    the way i see it, you have to screw the bracket into the bumper, why not just screw the license plate into the bumper. i've done it on previous cars and it realy doesn't look half bad. if you want, pick up a frame from autozone to make it look better. Thanks for the input--I may end up doing just that. From the looks of some of the brackets, though, it looked as if the bracket actually mounted somewhere in the opening of the front fascia, i.e., to some lateral support beam instead of to the plastic fascia. Does that make sense? I'd just look at another 626 here locally, but 1) as luck would have it I haven't seen another 626 for days, and 2) it's freaking COLD in MN right now, so I don't want to get out of my car to look at anything...!
  13. shaundarbie

    Front License Plate Mounting

    Just found out that MN requires front license plates. The last two states I lived in, including where I bought the car, do not require front plates. Thus, my 626 does not have mounting hardware for a plate. So now I need to mount my front plate. For those of you with front plates, how is your front plate mounted? I'm interested in feedback from both 98-99 and 00-02 owners. Here are some possibilities I found on ebay: Front plate bracket (1995 626) Front plate bracket ('01 Protege) Thanks!
  14. shaundarbie

    Shifter Bushings Change

    Our trannies are just slopply like that. One car magazine that tested a 626 said it was like rowing a wood spoon through a bowl of pretzels. Ouch.