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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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Zepticon last won the day on August 31 2017

Zepticon had the most liked content!

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About Zepticon

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  • Birthday 04/25/1986

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  1. i would not bother with the engine stand if you are not taking the trans of :) Just prop it up on the belt side and do it where it sits.
  2. A lot of people went mental over that, me included. So what i did was (before they removed that option) to download every album to my computer, and reupload it to my own webhotel. Keeping the same names and file structures, going back and change things was somewhat easy on all my threads except the one on Mazda-ogn.no and ,azda626.net. But here we have the cloud service, and i managed to get a workaround on my own board. And its really not ahrder to uplaod to photobucket, than to open FileZilla and do the transfer. I usually do an X pattern. The two lowest holes on the trans, and the two highest ones that are not the center. You could also do it like this, but here you will get issues with the top botl when you are to mount your intake manifold, as there is a cover that goes over the middle bolt. Cant wait to see you start making videos again. It was one of the few things that kept me comming back here to read :) But its gotta be something you enjoy, else its not adding anything. So i am happy things are looking good :D I tried twitter, but i didnt like it really. Its like a "soap box" service. Lots of peoaple shouting their opinions into nothingness. If you are starting a 626 build, im pretty sure pictures is gona be more than enough for us :D
  3. I have read about it, but its not sold here in Norway :) Im doing it the quick and dirty way now to see how long it holds :) The Miata is not running xD Its the reason i got it so cheap that i bought it. It lacks compression, so i will check timing first, if its not that ill pull the engine (i gotta do that anyway when its going to paint). But i ahve tried them before and its a really fin car to drive :D
  4. So its been a while since the last update. I had some strange sounds and the star started to behave iffy when driving this winter. I dont drive it much anymore since i my work has moved to an office where its faster and cheaper to take the bus/bike. The problem ended up being a broken rear spring. So i jumped on the fix-paint-upgrade train right away. First i went mental on Rockauto, and ordered every piece in the suspension new. The only items i didnt order was steering parts, and the Koni inserts. Everything else between the wheel and chassi is new. I started the teardown by getting out the shocks and started to refurbush the, They are badly rusted from years in the salt, so they needed some serious work. Only one of them came out easy, this was one of the rear shocks. The other rear shock needed some convincing, but came out in the end as well. The two front ones didn't budge, so i had to cut and drill the bolts. I then had them mounted in a lathe and redid the threads properly. Since RockAuto had some super cheap chinese brand shocks, i treated myself a set of brand new donor shocks for the inserts. I cut them, and then drilled the hole in the bottom for the bolts. Then painted them properly, and soaked the inside with anti-rust oil. The rest of the suspension parts where in a sad state, so they went straight to be sandblasted. I had a full King6 suspension setup, but im only keeping the trailing arms. It got to stiff and noisy for me as i am getting older. Im also making sure the new parts aint gona rust, so im painting them with a few extra layers of Hammerite, before covering them with anti-rust stuff: And i also decided that i needed another car: So now i have three 94 mod Mazdas :) This one will be a more track and fun driven budget project.
  5. I also had a little photoshoot with the RX7. I Promised my friends we would go take some photos before the winter, and we barely made it!
  6. Long time since any updates. Not much ahve happened to the 626, but i have managed to buy myself an apartment!. Now i have a (shared) garage to put the RX in during the winter, and a spot outside my place for the 626. And my own shed! I also got some help by a friend to fix some rust on my rear fender. He is a professional painter/detailer, and did an epic job here! I can hardly see anything after he was done!
  7. Wire harness shorts or breaks? Did you test with a non-MAF swap
  8. Zepticon


    I agree with FIS:) Working with images like its implemented now is a pain for me at least. If i am on my laptop or a small screen, posting lots of images into the worklogs are impossible to do in a sensible way. Previously there used to be a "light switch" on the right side of the formatting shortcuts that let me disable all visual formatting, and work with BBCode only. Please bring it back <3 Screenshot of how it used to be:
  9. So, while the RX7 have been in the garage all summer, only getting 50km of roadtime, there has been little love for the 626. But i managed to get a small mod in: Before: After: It has the rare "Diamond" badge that came before the evolution to the "toilet bowl":
  10. Awesome ride! I would love to import one to Norway xD What color options do they come with?
  11. From the dyno tests i have seen (not done by those who manufacture the filters) the only gain to be had was on a turbo car, with the filter mounted instead of the headlight. On our cars, the restriction is in the VAF, and once that is removed, swapping the filter in the airbox with a K&N can be done, but doing aftermarket pipes and cone filter is a waste of time. There are really no place to put the filter where you can get cold air. The only partially viable placement is under the car but even there you get heat from the radiator and the problems of dirt from the road. Also, the oil used in filters tend to stick to the MAF temp sensor and give you inaccurate readings after a while. So then sound is the only reason to do the swap. It gets a different sound when you have straight pipes and filter on than with the regular setup, tho this can be fixed a bit by removing some of the resonator boxes both before and after the filterbox.
  12. They have different ignition system. KLG4 runs on a Ford based ECU, while KLDE use a distributor. Headers and exhaust should fit, but the KLG4 have precats and 4 O2 sensors, while DE has only two O2s. Transmission and related stuff should be identical. Fuel and fuel system should be similar enough for things to fit. Etc. Unless you are going into engine internals or mechanical things mention in my above post, i would say that stuff will fit 99% of the time.
  13. Block: Its the same, except the KLG4 does not have the oil squirters Crank: Different, but both fits. Its said the KLG4 is cast due to differences in weight, and production marks Rods: The same as far as i know Pistons: Slightly higher compression on KLG4 compared to KLDE (better efficiency). KLZE is the highest compression version. Everything fits. Heads: Identical to KLDE except the cam position sensor on the rear head. Cams: Different, but both fits. KLG4 have solid lash adjusters and cam profile to match that. Valvetrain: Identical as far as i know, with the exception of SLA on KLG4 vs HLA on KLDE Fuelrails: KLG4 have better bores and flow more, KLDE are often not centered at the exit. Both fits. Manifold: KLG4, KLDE and Curve neck are interchangeable. Straight neck and some curve necks have different port shapes from KLG4 and KLDE heads. Throttlebody: Not interchangeable. You need to use a different TB to fit a KLG4 mani on a KLDE car.
  14. You know DJ, i have always admired the way you attack problems in your videos Methodical and systematic! BUt im not very good at it myself unless really forced to it. So, i took the lazy way out today, and wanted to eliminate the ignition beeing an issue. So i found my old distributor in my parts archive, and put that back on the car. Dialing in the timing and adjusting idle, and already the car was running smoother and better than with the previous (new) distributor. So i let it idle for around 30 mins and no issues what so ever. Today i went for a test drive, and around 1h 30 mins later ther is no sign of any issues. Needless to say, im returning the new $250 disy to Rockauto for a refund.
  15. Thanks for the reply :) Yeah since the RX7 has been sitting in the garage for 3 months, maybe the 626 got jealous of the warm and dry life :D Currently the main suspect is the Disty, they are said to go bad often and that a HEI mod should fix it. But both the disty and fuel pump is less than a year old. I also replaced the Crank sensor less than six months ago with a new unit from Mazda, along with the FPR and Temp sensor. As for happening on "hot starts", the engine has been hot and fans going on and off with the car running, after i got it started again, but then it suddenly stops again, so i cant see any relation to hot starts other than the problem never occuring while its cold so far. But it heats up pretty quick so that doesnt say much :) As for the VAF, i have done the MAF mod and im running a Millenia ECU with a MAF sensor instead of the VAF. I tried pulling codes but could not find any sensor failures that arent supposed to be there.
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