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About Zepticon

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 04/25/1986

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  • Car
    Mazda 626 GT 2.5 KL31, Mazda RX-7 FD 13B-REW

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  • Location
    Trondheim - Norway
  1. I also had a little photoshoot with the RX7. I Promised my friends we would go take some photos before the winter, and we barely made it!
  2. Long time since any updates. Not much ahve happened to the 626, but i have managed to buy myself an apartment!. Now i have a (shared) garage to put the RX in during the winter, and a spot outside my place for the 626. And my own shed! I also got some help by a friend to fix some rust on my rear fender. He is a professional painter/detailer, and did an epic job here! I can hardly see anything after he was done!
  3. Wire harness shorts or breaks? Did you test with a non-MAF swap
  4. I agree with FIS:) Working with images like its implemented now is a pain for me at least. If i am on my laptop or a small screen, posting lots of images into the worklogs are impossible to do in a sensible way. Previously there used to be a "light switch" on the right side of the formatting shortcuts that let me disable all visual formatting, and work with BBCode only. Please bring it back <3 Screenshot of how it used to be:
  5. So, while the RX7 have been in the garage all summer, only getting 50km of roadtime, there has been little love for the 626. But i managed to get a small mod in: Before: After: It has the rare "Diamond" badge that came before the evolution to the "toilet bowl":
  6. Awesome ride! I would love to import one to Norway xD What color options do they come with?
  7. From the dyno tests i have seen (not done by those who manufacture the filters) the only gain to be had was on a turbo car, with the filter mounted instead of the headlight. On our cars, the restriction is in the VAF, and once that is removed, swapping the filter in the airbox with a K&N can be done, but doing aftermarket pipes and cone filter is a waste of time. There are really no place to put the filter where you can get cold air. The only partially viable placement is under the car but even there you get heat from the radiator and the problems of dirt from the road. Also, the oil used in filters tend to stick to the MAF temp sensor and give you inaccurate readings after a while. So then sound is the only reason to do the swap. It gets a different sound when you have straight pipes and filter on than with the regular setup, tho this can be fixed a bit by removing some of the resonator boxes both before and after the filterbox.
  8. They have different ignition system. KLG4 runs on a Ford based ECU, while KLDE use a distributor. Headers and exhaust should fit, but the KLG4 have precats and 4 O2 sensors, while DE has only two O2s. Transmission and related stuff should be identical. Fuel and fuel system should be similar enough for things to fit. Etc. Unless you are going into engine internals or mechanical things mention in my above post, i would say that stuff will fit 99% of the time.
  9. Block: Its the same, except the KLG4 does not have the oil squirters Crank: Different, but both fits. Its said the KLG4 is cast due to differences in weight, and production marks Rods: The same as far as i know Pistons: Slightly higher compression on KLG4 compared to KLDE (better efficiency). KLZE is the highest compression version. Everything fits. Heads: Identical to KLDE except the cam position sensor on the rear head. Cams: Different, but both fits. KLG4 have solid lash adjusters and cam profile to match that. Valvetrain: Identical as far as i know, with the exception of SLA on KLG4 vs HLA on KLDE Fuelrails: KLG4 have better bores and flow more, KLDE are often not centered at the exit. Both fits. Manifold: KLG4, KLDE and Curve neck are interchangeable. Straight neck and some curve necks have different port shapes from KLG4 and KLDE heads. Throttlebody: Not interchangeable. You need to use a different TB to fit a KLG4 mani on a KLDE car.
  10. You know DJ, i have always admired the way you attack problems in your videos Methodical and systematic! BUt im not very good at it myself unless really forced to it. So, i took the lazy way out today, and wanted to eliminate the ignition beeing an issue. So i found my old distributor in my parts archive, and put that back on the car. Dialing in the timing and adjusting idle, and already the car was running smoother and better than with the previous (new) distributor. So i let it idle for around 30 mins and no issues what so ever. Today i went for a test drive, and around 1h 30 mins later ther is no sign of any issues. Needless to say, im returning the new $250 disy to Rockauto for a refund.
  11. Thanks for the reply :) Yeah since the RX7 has been sitting in the garage for 3 months, maybe the 626 got jealous of the warm and dry life :D Currently the main suspect is the Disty, they are said to go bad often and that a HEI mod should fix it. But both the disty and fuel pump is less than a year old. I also replaced the Crank sensor less than six months ago with a new unit from Mazda, along with the FPR and Temp sensor. As for happening on "hot starts", the engine has been hot and fans going on and off with the car running, after i got it started again, but then it suddenly stops again, so i cant see any relation to hot starts other than the problem never occuring while its cold so far. But it heats up pretty quick so that doesnt say much :) As for the VAF, i have done the MAF mod and im running a Millenia ECU with a MAF sensor instead of the VAF. I tried pulling codes but could not find any sensor failures that arent supposed to be there.
  12. Hey :) Im having a strange issue that Im not sure how to to begin solving. Ill start with the history... Yesterday when driving home from work,i noticed a slight jerking, it was just one nudge, and then one more 5 sec later. Then suddenly the engine dies completely. I turn the key sto start it again and it fires up. Then it runs for maybe 10-15 seconds before it dies again. I turn they key again, and it just cranks without any want to start. I ty again, ant it starts, but dies again instantly. I continue to try and it randomly starts for 1 sec, or doesnt start at all for a while. Then i sit down to wait for my friend to come pick me up. So then after 5 min waiting i try again, and it fires right up and works great for the rest of the day. So today i take the car and drive to work, it starts and runs good, until i get the small jerk, almost not noticeable. Then a few second later the engine dies. This time it is similar, but more cranking, and less random starts. I leave it for 5 mins, starts it again and it fire right up. I try driving but 30 sec later it dies. So i get a friend to pick me up and when i come back with my other car after 10 mins, it fires right up and seem to have no issues. again. No unusual error codes either So does anyone have any idea what it could be?
  13. Finally i got the RX-7 put back together. New 99-spec front, some nice bits under the hood, including new vacuum hoses. Just in time for the yearly Japanese car meeting. Even managed to score 1st place for best shine! :D
  14. I always look up your videos before looking at the FSM :) Thats why i want you to get the V6 videos going :D
  15. Nice that you are feeling better. Antibiotics does the trick, just make sure you take the entire cure, and not skip when you are feeling better (not finishing the cure can cause the bacterias to become more resistant) I am also sad that the once great USA has fallen so far, to where corporate greed have driven the population to its knees. When you cant afford to go to the doctor with your small issues, you aren't going until you are on deaths door. And what could have been a cheap procedure ends up being anything but since it has had time to fester and grow. Hopefully you get back on your feet and can continue doing what you like. The forum is not the same without you! You have been missed :)