Jump to content
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by XeNoMoRpH

  1. Is this the FS (inline 4) or KL (V6)? If you haven't yet, grab a factory service manual at http://www.pmx626.info. If will go over the testing procedures. It seems like you are doing the correct procedures. Jumping the wire from pin 30 to pin 87 (bypassing the relay essentially) should activate the fuel pump. The fuse would be under the hood and is labeled as "EGI ING" (30 amps).
  2. Did you have any pictures? Might help with the sale.
  3. The 2002 is a pretty solid car. The 98-02 V6 is a KLG4 and has solid lifters. I think those have to be shimmed in order to be fixed unlike hydraulic lifters which are mostly maintenance free. It is odd because I never had that issue with my 99 for the 100k miles I drove it. I would suggest getting some fresh oil in there with an oil change. The KL oil filters are tiny, but luckily there are other filters with the same threads and diameter which will work. You should be able to find that information on this forum. If you don't have a factory service manual, check out http://www.pmx626.info and get the 2001 service manual (2000-2002 should be the same).
  4. It has been a long time since I have updated this. I had not touched the car in a long while until last month. I started troubleshooting by checking for vacuum leaks (none found), fuel pressure (all checked out), testing the VAF (within specs), etc. I narrowed it back down to ignition and was looking at how I wired up my external coil because I definitely did not remember what I did. I have a Pertronix Flamethrower HV which seems fine. I pressed the ignition cables on the distributor and one clicked. So yeah, that was it. A loose ignition wire on the distributor cap. I'm happy it is mostly normal again. After that, it blew out the exhaust flange gasket after the car. I fixed that and then the muffler had all these holes in it. I didn't want that Walker crap anymore, so I got a Magnaflow bullet style straight through muffler. That is almost done except I need an exhaust tip. It is still breaking up a bit when I get on it hard in 2nd and 3rd. I'll have to play with it more, but overall I am happy that it mostly works.
  5. If using the ECU from the 626 is not possible, the next solution I can think of would be a standalone such as a Megasquirt. Any reason you want to swap the KL as opposed to a V6 from a Camry, outside of you simply having one lying around? The KL is a good engine and decent power for the size, but there is limited aftermarket support and not much additional power to be had. The V6 from let's say a 1995 Camry is already more powerful. People started throwing the Camry V6s into the MRS, so I feel it has a lot of support. On top of that, did you check the transmission positioning and the axle splines? If they differ, different axles/hubs/spindles may be needed which also means different bearings, calipers, rotors, etc. I'm not trying to discourage you. As long as you are prepared to put in the work, go for it.
  6. Yeah, we should have the pictures somewhere. It is supposed to download the external content and change the link. Who knows if it is functional. Glad to see you are doing well. Any link to your album? I found one song on your youtube channel from about 4 months ago.
  7. This is why I like endurance racing. The times on that screenshot have the 626 as the slowest time and speed. It shows that doesn't matter too much as long as you stay out on track longer. What is ChampCar? Rebranding or something new?
  8. I don't see a RX happening for a long while. Mazda is moving forward at a great pace with the SkyActiv engines and will start diving into hybrids and electrics.
  9. I'm glad to hear it. His Facebook profile lists Houston and I couldn't remember where the new house was.
  10. Leev, pretty much anything that doesn't seem available anymore I would consider. For example, the stuff below that I'm about to go over, I would love one that isn't broken/repaired. It took me all day, but I mostly repaired the turn signal. I removed the steering wheel and found a random spring and this piece broken. I looked around and figured it out. Attached is a picture of how it is on my Miata (I was hoping I could use the part from it) The spring sits on the white piece and puts pressure on the metal ball. That ball goes into the grooves (left signal, neutral, right signal) and gives the audible click noise. Seems easy enough to repair, right? It took me three attempts: JB-quik epoxy (failed) Super glue and JB-quik epoxy (failed when installing) Drilled the two pieces, inserted metal rod from a clothpin, super glue, and JB-quik (maybe?) I tried it for about 10 minutes. I am already thinking of my 4th, 5th, and 6th attempt on what I will try (additional support with metal, remaking the whole thing in metal, transplanting the whole Miata piece over because I feel I can make it work) I have to fix the speedometer next followed by the ignition/fuel/vacuum issue, which ever of the three it is. Sometimes on start, it takes a lot longer to fire up. When I hit any sort of boost, the car shutters and bucks.
  11. Probably 30 minutes to an hour for ATF. I haven't done it, but the internet says so. MMO was a better solution, so that is what I went with. Let it heat up and cycle the fan a few times. The lifters quieted down. I ended up driving it to fill it up. I'll need to service the brakes in some manner. New TODO items Speedometer doesn't work, so I assume the speedometer cable The turn signal kept engaging as I turned the wheel to the point the mechanism broke and now the left turn signal will be on since that is the new resting position.
  12. I heard the diesel story back in 2014. It will be a waste of time now, in my opinion. I haven't heard of the AWD Mazda 6 (Mazdapseed 6?) and also sort of doubt it, just like the AWD Mazdaspeed 3. I feel Mazda wants to do cool stuff like that, but my guess is the market simply isn't there, or they don't believe it is. My 3 does not have the I-Eloop system. Seems like a cool idea. I know if you replace the battery, it all has to be reprogrammed in order to work. What a pain. I am curious too. I recall hearing something about a gas lithium battery. Like you, I am skeptical, though hopeful since it will help Mazda. Until I see something, it is just words.
  13. Weather was looking good, so I decided to try it out. I unfortunately had locked my key in the car before, however I knew the driver's side rear window was hanging on by a thread. A bit of downward pressure and it went down. Excellent, I'm in. I took the door panel off, removed the window regulator, and installed the new one. Works perfectly. While there I decided "Why not start it?" So I did. A lifter is stuck which I expected. I will add some ATF or Marvel's Mystery Oil and see how it helps with the plan of doing an oil change. Otherwise, I may have to check the HLAs and see if any are not functional. It has been a while after all...
  14. Welcome to the forum. That is clean looking for sure.
  15. The SkyActiv-X is awesome. I guess Mazda won't be bringing their diesels to the US since the X is as efficient. Another announcement is the joint plant that will be built in the US for Mazda and Toyota. I believe Toyota owns a 5% stake of Mazda now and they are teaming up, sort of. Mazda has some great tech with the I-ELOOP system and engines, Toyota has some great tech with hybrids and batteries. Toyota is also allegedly working on a battery technology that will fully recharge in the same amount of time as a typical car refueling with gasoline. Between Mazda making the internal combustion engine more efficient and Toyota's battery tech (if it is true), the future is looking good for electric and electric hybrids going a lot more main stream.
  16. Not sure why Mazda wants people to piece together the intermediate shaft on this one. I priced it out on Mazda Motorsports and it comes out to ~$500 (for a 1988), if the parts are even available. D-Code Part Number Description 25-710 G001-25-710 Shaft Joint G003-25-710C G003-25-710D G004-25-710A 25-744 G003-25-744 Dust Seal 25-740J 9960-68-2063 Ball Bearing 25-740 G002-25-740C Bracket G003-25-741A G004-25-741A G008-25-741B 25-745 G003-25-745 Bolt G003-25-745A 25-742 G0003-25-742 Dust Seal 25-421 G053-25-421A Clip That's all I can do outside of suggesting to find a junkyard
  17. I'm assuming you don't have any part numbers?
  18. Okay, I'm not from Jersey like it says on the left side on my profile. You posted in the New Member area, so doesn't seem unreasonable to get responses from people around the world. From New Jersey in what way?
  19. Your response makes no sense in several ways, the biggest being your actual location. I'm not 100% this is a bot, though technology these days...
  20. There are advantages. I pay no personal property tax on the 626 (here you get to pay taxes on stuff you "own"), no annual inspection (not necessarily a bad thing), and no annual registration fee. Either way, it now has antique plates on. The plate itself is a solid piece of aluminum that was conveniently not the same dimensions of the normal plate. I had to modify the plate a bit to get it to fit in the license plate holder by trimming the top a bit and all the corners.
  21. There is no difference. You can get vintage plates like what I have on my MG which go up until 1972. After that, the year is no longer part of the plate and you get a generic antique plate (black with white text or yellow with black text). It varies on how police enforce it. I feel like I mentioned the 3, but who knows where. It gets awesome fuel mileage (54mpg when I really try). I've raced it more than my Miata in the past two years which is sad. Anyway, happy to get this moving again.
  22. My 2015 Mazda 3 has been the DD. Bought new and now has 45k miles after almost 2 years. Here in VA, a vehicle with antique tags has specific rules. I wouldn't technically be allowed to drive it to work, to the store, etc. Only really for testing/pleasure (within a specific radius of the garage location), and to car shows/shops. It varies on how much it is enforced. I would want to drive it once in a while to work for testing, of course.
  23. I am reviving this because tomorrow I am getting antique tags for the 626 finally. Then I get to see what works and what doesn't. Once it is mechanically sound, I will consider Ksports. Besides a dead battery from some phantom draw, as it starts hitting boost, it falls on its face. My suspicion was a boost leak somewhere and a vacuum gauge will confirm that. Most of the electric window regulators had issues. I was just looking into what it would take to go manual, but came across new electric window regulators on eBay. I bought them for each door and that will be one less thing to worry about.
  24. Welcome to the forum. Where about New Jersey are you from?
  25. At the end of the day, I will remind everyone that we are all car enthusiasts here, specifically for Mazda and the 626/MX6 and alike. This thread is also specifically about builds for an amateur racing series and chronicling the progress (car and drivers) from start to finish.
  • Create New...