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About XeNoMoRpH

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    Mazda 626.net

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    1988 626 GT ----- 1995 MX-6 LS

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  1. There are advantages. I pay no personal property tax on the 626 (here you get to pay taxes on stuff you "own"), no annual inspection (not necessarily a bad thing), and no annual registration fee. Either way, it now has antique plates on. The plate itself is a solid piece of aluminum that was conveniently not the same dimensions of the normal plate. I had to modify the plate a bit to get it to fit in the license plate holder by trimming the top a bit and all the corners.
  2. There is no difference. You can get vintage plates like what I have on my MG which go up until 1972. After that, the year is no longer part of the plate and you get a generic antique plate (black with white text or yellow with black text). It varies on how police enforce it. I feel like I mentioned the 3, but who knows where. It gets awesome fuel mileage (54mpg when I really try). I've raced it more than my Miata in the past two years which is sad. Anyway, happy to get this moving again.
  3. My 2015 Mazda 3 has been the DD. Bought new and now has 45k miles after almost 2 years. Here in VA, a vehicle with antique tags has specific rules. I wouldn't technically be allowed to drive it to work, to the store, etc. Only really for testing/pleasure (within a specific radius of the garage location), and to car shows/shops. It varies on how much it is enforced. I would want to drive it once in a while to work for testing, of course.
  4. I am reviving this because tomorrow I am getting antique tags for the 626 finally. Then I get to see what works and what doesn't. Once it is mechanically sound, I will consider Ksports. Besides a dead battery from some phantom draw, as it starts hitting boost, it falls on its face. My suspicion was a boost leak somewhere and a vacuum gauge will confirm that. Most of the electric window regulators had issues. I was just looking into what it would take to go manual, but came across new electric window regulators on eBay. I bought them for each door and that will be one less thing to worry about.
  5. Welcome to the forum. Where about New Jersey are you from?
  6. At the end of the day, I will remind everyone that we are all car enthusiasts here, specifically for Mazda and the 626/MX6 and alike. This thread is also specifically about builds for an amateur racing series and chronicling the progress (car and drivers) from start to finish.
  7. I'm still trying to figure out the intent of the hole in the hood. I think most people do that with the intent of extracting heat? It being a low pressure zone over the hood, I'm curious if air will get forced into the engine bay as opposed to out.
  8. Wider tire doesn't necessarily mean more grip. I can only speak for the Miata, though this 626 is now about the weight of mine. The consensus with the Miata is: 7in is 185, 8in is 205, 9in is 225. Those yield the fastest times. This is from the top Miata guys in NASA/SCCA/etc and I agree. I tried the 225 on 15x8 and 205 on 15x8. I'm sticking with the 205s.
  9. Do the rear doors feel rigid enough? The biggest worry is when one guts the door too much and it ends up flimsy and coming unlatched as the car twists under cornering conditions. When it was weighed, was it full of fluids? I'm not sure if there are weight restrictions.
  10. I'm down for any of those tracks. I've driven VIR quite a bit, the full course at least. The 24 hour race is the Grand Course which includes the Patriot Course making it 4.2 miles. Such a long track. I got my MX6 specifically so I could build it for ChumpCar to do the 24-hour race at VIR. My schedule is pretty much open.
  11. Sounds like a fun time. I personally haven't made it up to the Glen yet, but it is on the list. It would have been cool if I paid more attention. I was in New York this past Saturday...
  12. That is pretty neat and a good version 1. In the video, you said the stove frame was attached to the frame. Did I miss the part where you unattached it? It looked more like the stove and bed was a press fit. That makes it easy to take in and out and be secure in the majority of cases. In the worst case such as an impact or rollover, it looks quite dangerous.
  13. @Leevimpressive to do that at work. Did you do any prep? It is difficult to tell from the picture. @PrinceValorum, I have to ask about SK Tools and their sockets. I was tempted years ago, but the price scared me away just like Snap-On stuff. In relation to power tools, one day when headed back from a job, we were looking them up. Seems one company in China makes the majority of them. The Dewalt XR series is in the US, Craftsman supposedly has a Professional series also made in the US. Other than that, Makita has several made in Japan/China. You have to search for a specific colored body for it to be made in Japan (stuff at Home Depot is from China).
  14. The worst case scenario is going straight down right after the harness goes through between the seat/headrest. That means in a forward impact, the belt would push down as you go forward. That is where the spine injuries arise. By going straight back to a very slight down angle, it won't compress downwards and would be the strongest method as well. Again, all of the safety components work well together and not so much when mixed and matched. My friend had a harness/racing seat in his E36 and crashed at a high speed area at VIR. He was lucky it was more of a side impact. If it was head on, I wouldn't expect to be talking to him today. It is sort of a problem with club/amateur racing. To get into it, they need to keep the rules down so it is easy for someone to get started. It means sacrificing safety.
  15. For your harness, I have a couple of comments. In a pretty low speed front impact, it has the potential to break your neck as those 3" belts are not designed to give much. That is where the Neck Restraint System attached to a helmet saves lives. It would probably be difficult to use one of those on public roads. I believe the belts thinner than 3" (like 2") give much more and are better for a street driven car. I think the angle for the rear harness is a bit much (slightly down from straight back [think straight back minus 5 degrees] seems to be the sweet spot). Your mounting point is at least not straight down which would most likely damage your spine in an impact. Just my two cents. In a worst case scenario, I don't want you to end up worse because of a safety equipment mismatch. All of the items really are a full package. The three point harness and stock seats (usually also airbags) versus a solid racing seat, 6/7 point harness, harness bar, helmet/NRS. For the GD, I think anything is better than those damn automatic seat belts!