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About XeNoMoRpH

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    Mazda 626.net

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    1988 626 GT ----- 1995 MX-6 LS

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  1. That is pretty neat and a good version 1. In the video, you said the stove frame was attached to the frame. Did I miss the part where you unattached it? It looked more like the stove and bed was a press fit. That makes it easy to take in and out and be secure in the majority of cases. In the worst case such as an impact or rollover, it looks quite dangerous.
  2. @Leevimpressive to do that at work. Did you do any prep? It is difficult to tell from the picture. @PrinceValorum, I have to ask about SK Tools and their sockets. I was tempted years ago, but the price scared me away just like Snap-On stuff. In relation to power tools, one day when headed back from a job, we were looking them up. Seems one company in China makes the majority of them. The Dewalt XR series is in the US, Craftsman supposedly has a Professional series also made in the US. Other than that, Makita has several made in Japan/China. You have to search for a specific colored body for it to be made in Japan (stuff at Home Depot is from China).
  3. The worst case scenario is going straight down right after the harness goes through between the seat/headrest. That means in a forward impact, the belt would push down as you go forward. That is where the spine injuries arise. By going straight back to a very slight down angle, it won't compress downwards and would be the strongest method as well. Again, all of the safety components work well together and not so much when mixed and matched. My friend had a harness/racing seat in his E36 and crashed at a high speed area at VIR. He was lucky it was more of a side impact. If it was head on, I wouldn't expect to be talking to him today. It is sort of a problem with club/amateur racing. To get into it, they need to keep the rules down so it is easy for someone to get started. It means sacrificing safety.
  4. For your harness, I have a couple of comments. In a pretty low speed front impact, it has the potential to break your neck as those 3" belts are not designed to give much. That is where the Neck Restraint System attached to a helmet saves lives. It would probably be difficult to use one of those on public roads. I believe the belts thinner than 3" (like 2") give much more and are better for a street driven car. I think the angle for the rear harness is a bit much (slightly down from straight back [think straight back minus 5 degrees] seems to be the sweet spot). Your mounting point is at least not straight down which would most likely damage your spine in an impact. Just my two cents. In a worst case scenario, I don't want you to end up worse because of a safety equipment mismatch. All of the items really are a full package. The three point harness and stock seats (usually also airbags) versus a solid racing seat, 6/7 point harness, harness bar, helmet/NRS. For the GD, I think anything is better than those damn automatic seat belts!
  5. I would expect those sort of pressures on a cold start. After warming up, I agree, that is pretty high.
  6. Oh, treadwear certainly matters. Those 200 treadwear tires will be stickier than the 340s even with the width difference. The downside is the lower treadwear tires wear out sooner because of the additional grip. It is something to consider. I forgot you had 16s. I've used http://www.tiretab.com in the past with good results to find the better prices.
  7. I can really only speak for the Miata. The rule of thumb is 8" rim with 205s, 9" rim with 225s. The 205s on 8" rims are stiffer compared to the 225s and therefore they are faster on the track. Any reason it is between the Star Specs and Gforce Sport? One is a 200 treadwear tire while the other is 340.
  8. There is no more BBcode in IPB. It was removed in version 4. The image button's replacement is seen below.
  9. Nice, I hadn't seen that yet. I don't get that magazine, probably never will. @PrinceValorum, the old wing was 58" I believe? It seems about the same thickness, but overall a nicer wing. Much larger end plates which do something I guess. You are talking about guy-wires. Once a wing gets so tall, there is only so much you can do with the mounting to make it not bounce around. The guy-wires are a low drag solution. I usually see them crisscrossed to help keep it from moving. A more solid carbon fiber mount would be the way to go over aluminum.
  10. Got the new wing installed. It is 64" which is the width of the car (picture from the rear exaggerates it a bit). With the mounts, it sits higher and further back. Randomly, a UPS guy driving by stopped to check out the car while I was taking pictures. He said it isn't every day you see a race car.
  11. It turned out pretty nice. I get to install the new wing now
  12. That is a hell of a deal.
  13. I suppose it is supply and demand. Directly from Mazda for a white one it is $145.95. Add the cost of running a business, covering some of the shipping costs, Atkins isn't making much off of it. OEM parts typically aren't cheap.
  14. How does the stock system handle it? It makes sense for it to be blow through as it will know the correct amount of air being fed in. Before the turbo, it just guesstimates?
  15. I've used simple green in the past. I was told you shouldn't leave it for a long duration on aluminum, everything else is okay. There is also purple power.