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Everything posted by tristan

  1. My clutch pedal suddenly stops much higher than it used to and I got a bunch of broken plastic in my footwell. My mechanic tells me I need at least two bushings to replace, the problem is he can not source them anywhere. Please, anybody who has done clutch pedal maintenance let me know where you sourced parts or what did you modify to make it work. Have you used bushings from other Mazda or any other make or model and they worked?? I would hate to have to buy a new car just because I could not find 7 $ worth of plastic parts..... Thank you for all the ideas!
  2. I had similar issue few years ago in my 626. Replacing the clutch master cylinder fixed the problem. Hope this helps.
  3. Do they want the specifications of as new car emissions or how clean your car is right now? You can try to find the level of 'clean' of your car and use these specifications. I have mine measured every 2 years (California) and they are very small numbers e.g. 0.1 mg/L CO, etc. They also change between measurements as well. For example a ULEV-2 would have a certain level of these pollutant, SULEV will have other, etc. I found on the net that your model is ULEV. I hope this helps.
  4. I have a problem that puzzles me a lot lately. My MTX '96 has a fairly new clutch disk and all the hardware that goes with it(10-15 k old) . Recently I notice that my pedal has little resistance in the top 1.5 in. of travel and its feels movement feels 'grainy' when close to the floor, rather than smooth as usual. It also ocassionally makes an unplesant squeky sound (like a door rarely lubricated) when the pedal is in the low range close to the floor and the pedal returns slower than my foot, when I release the clutch (I do not do it really fast and take it easy in general). At the same time the clutch engagment and operation is smooth and progrssive, no issues what so ever. Have somebody experienced this problem and what part of the clutch assembly is likely bad? Thanks!
  5. It depends where it is squeaky. In my car it gets squeaky inside the cabin where there is some metal-metal rubbing when I pressed and especially when I released the pedal (It sounded like a rusty chain pulling, pretty nasty). One of the Mazda dealership technician showed me how to fix it with some bike lubricant so now I do it myself. If you look down at the pedals you can see where the rubbing occurs and you just spray there. The squeak disappears instantly! Interestingly, I had it come back only in the winter.
  6. I agree- if you buy new rotors there is a certain chance they are warped out of the box.
  7. Have the rear brakes inspected for not fully releasing. Pull the hand brake a little while driving and see if it increases the noise- if yes, your brakes are touching the drums, if not your problem is elsewhere.
  8. Yes this is the first thing to try if you have this shuddering problem while driving-check balance and alignment. Usually out of balance tires vibration increases with speed significantly- the faster you go, the more pronounced you get. If the problem persist you may want to have the brakes and the suspension checked for wear.
  9. I think you have two choices. The obvious one is that you need a new catalytic converter. The other choice is to drive your car on a fairly long high way trip to clean up the catalyst as much as possible and try again- no guarantee to work. Considering by how much you are failing, I' d say go for the new catalyst. Last time I could not pass because of a 102 reading on hydrocarbon (100 is the max allowed here).
  10. Use a sharp plastic object and pray it out, gently so you do not get paint scraped. It is being held there by metallic plates that expand while installed.
  11. I believe you can use brake cleaner.
  12. 1996 DX MTX with just over 155K. Runs like a clockwork occasionally visiting 5000 rpm without sweat and great engine sound. No serious issues, yet. Typical maintenance- new radiator, clutch, struts, couple of engine mounts, new exhaust and catalyst (living in CA )etc. Only once a head gasket problem due to faulty PCV valve. Fixed fully and cheaply. Some upgrades to make it more fun (not necessary fixes)- 16 in., wheels, Ultra high performance tires, Eibach springs, decent headlight bulbs. Planning to get at least another 2-4 years out of it. I want to give Mazda a chance to get the next RX-8 to my liking.
  13. I got my Xtreme lights from Oereplacement.com for like 40 $. They are halogen lights, they are not xenon or anything like that. My car has stock headlights which are 9006. They just so happens to be the best lights I have put on my car. I did consider the JP spec headlights but I do not want to go through the expense and the hassle.
  14. I wanted to share my experience with the new bulbs I bought recently- the Phillips Xtreme power. I was looking around for a worthy replacement of the last Sylvanya Siverstar Ultra. I have been a very loyal customer of the Silverstar brand and they left me wanting for more, especially longevity wise. The original Silverstars barely lasted a year, the ultras ~2. The light was way better than stock, but nothing special. Found online claim of the new 'brightest halogen bulb'. Well, as far as I am concerned I do not really care how long these bulbs last- they are superb. Now my car feels very contemporary lights wise. The color is slightly warmer than the Silverstar Ultras, but the light density is times better. I can see them far ahead rain or fog. The only problem is finding where to buy these lights- it took me some effort as the regular auto retailer do not carry them, at least in my region. If it matters for you they are made in Germany. Overall above my expectations and highly recommended.
  15. The best fuel economy is achieved before air resistance becomes a factor (45-55 mph) which is held as stable as possible, in top gear and with properly maintained car especially tires and alignment. Best if done with cruise control for those who have it. This is true for pretty much every car out there. As far as practical use is concerned I have achieved 36 mpg once when I was forced to drive at 50 mph from the relatively twisty road and other cars. Once I get to 65-75 mph the mileage is 33-34 mpg.
  16. How about oxygen sensors? If they are not operating at their best the catalyst can get fouled rather quickly. I had to replace my catalyst with only 30k miles because my O2 sensors went bad in the mean time and I failed catalyst. Also make sure that you use correct spark plugs, check distributor cap and rotor (if so equipped). I do not want to sound pessimistic, but I am afraid that your catalyst will need to be replaced, again. If it lets such amounts past it is gone.
  17. I used to get such a problem- the car would feel noisy and coarse at higher than 3000-3500 rpm. It sounded like a rattling noise not very obvious from where. In my case the solution was replacing the catalytic converter which was broken down to pieces that vibrated badly when lots of gas was passing through the catalyst body. If this car has more than 100k on it, likely the catalyst is crumbled to some extent. Another possibility is a hole in the exhaust. Usually the mechanics who specialize in exhaust stuff would do a free inspection for you... Good luck!
  18. As Mazda95 said. I had this happen to me, it was the clutch master cylinder. It is one of these things that wear slowly but eventually need to be replaced. The good is that it is not so expensive.(<200$)..
  19. I had a resonator added for 120$ installed. It made the car very quiet and it did not change the power. It also killed the popping when rpm drop upon gear change. I highly recommend it.
  20. I have these plugs, although I paid less for them. The great thing for Ir is that it is the metal that is most resistant to disintegration in the sparking conditions. They are long lasting and they never catch oxide layer, which makes them more reliable and much longer lasting than copper. They are the higher end spark plugs that ship from factory on most new cars because eventually you maintain them less (Civic SI, Audi, BMW, etc.). They are not going to give you more power or anything like this, especially if they are stock configuration. I would say enjoy them and assume that unless you leak oil on top of them they will last you at least 75 K miles.
  21. It may sound silly but it may be your trunk lock rods. I know it because I used to have such a problem- rattling over potholes, speed bumps etc. There are two rods which participate somehow in the trunk lock. You can see them when you open it. They hit each other every time the car bounces giving the feeling of 'a something rattles in the trunk'. I wrapped some fabric around one of them and it resolved my problem completely. Give it a try....
  22. Well it depends on your driving. . If you get to brake hard, downhill or repeatedly from high speeds the difference will be quite significant. If you just drive around town and you have to do the occasional emergency braking than probably it will feel more like marginal upgrade. If you can do the job by your self than a price of 250 $ sounds like a great deal to me, however it depends on your finance situation. If you want to improve your car and are willing to spend the money - go for it!
  23. Bad O2 sensor causes solid CEL (I have had it once). Most likely it is not your problem. If the light comes and goes away than you likely have intermittent misfire in one or more cylinders. Get new spark plugs, check if the old ones are fouled, replace wiring harness. This and a general tune up and your car will run like new. If you want to save money on your repair borrow a reader for the car computer- the message code would be recorded there even if the light does not stay on. Good luck!
  24. If your catalyst is damaged/clogged you will get a check engine light from the O2 sensor. If I was you I would do a general tune up. It is surprising how much small details can hurt cars performance. Check distributor cap, PCV valve, spark plugs, air filter, etc.
  25. Just a shot in the dark-you may want to check the engine mounts. When they go bad when the car shifts the engine moves inside and may give a sound. It is usually worse in the lower gears. The car may also buck a little when changing gears. I have observed similar problem with my car although the sound varied (I had several mounts fail over time). Hope this helps.
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